With temperatures below freezing outside, it is once again time to get the heavy winter overcoats and suits out of the closet. To help get you in the winter frame of mind, I want to present an article from Apparel Arts about winter worsteds and fabrics, which was published in 1934 and provides some interesting insight into the season’s patterns and topcoats styles. Also, you will find fabric samples which were not part of the original article, but they are nevertheless from 1934.
Fabrics For Winter Article
WHEN winter comes, it usually brings snow and hard finished worsteds. This winter will be no exception. But while worsteds will respond to the natural stimulus of the season, the popularity of rougher and softer suitings bids fair to continue without abatement through the cold months. The ranking members of the tweed family, the cheviots, Shetlands, and Irish mixtures are the preferred rough fabrics for winter suitings, although dark colored flannels will find their way to the racks of many a smart retailers.
Nevertheless, knockout drops have not been administered to winter worsteds. To many men, a winter without worsteds would be like a winter without overcoats. But even the worsteds have caught something of the more casual spirit of the softer fabrics, and their uninteresting patterns have given way to small neat color stripes and overplaids. The perennial blue worsteds, too, will carry similar striping effects, and black worsted suitings are seen with spaced groups of white or colored stripes.
After an eclipse of more than a decade, a revival of exceeding interest is the Irish nubbed Donegal tweed. This fabric with its characteristic colored flecks and its rough surface still carries the hallmark of its home-spun origin. Heretofore, Irish Donegals have appeared in the customary basket weave, but many of them are now being executed in the new herringbone patterns. While they have retained their rugged
appearance they seem to have taken on new attractiveness.
Irish Donegals, of course, are not the only country fabrics being favored. The popular Scottish district plaids, considerably lighter in weight, are seen wherever the sporting gentry of the English countryside come together. Of the many district patterns the small double toned 2×2 check with brightly colored overplaids seems to be the most popular.
In connection with the subject of district plaids, it may be mentioned that fashion scouts have noticed them at English sporting events made up into jackets cut like riding sacques. There are the same slanting pockets, the side vents, and the wide flares at the bottoms. Waistcoats of the same material are tailored in postboy fashion, and the trousers are conspicuous with open lap seams.
A striking feature of the London season, and a radical departure from customary flannels, are the new black flannel suitings with vertical white or colored stripes.
Advance reports from Bond Street and Savile Row indicate that black flannels have made an immediate hit with some of the best dressed men in London.
Beside the night-shade flannels, the English market has shown a definite preference for cheviots and tweeds of all categories, particularly favoring those with spaced colored stripes. An interesting example of spaced striping is a brown cheviot fabric carrying a three-quarter inch stripe of gold alternating with a stripe of red. Another popular favorite is the blue cheviot with alternating stripes of grey and yellow. Subdued Glen Urquharts and overplaids, generally in a blue-grey mixture, are also London headliners. (continued on Page 2)