Back in July, my tailor provided us with the opportunity to have one of their custom shirts made for review on the Gentleman’s Gazette.
Initially, we agreed on having an online shirt made first and another one my one of their agents, who travels frequently to major cities all over the US. All mytailor shirts are made in Hong Kong and then individually shipped to the US.
For comparison, please see all of out shirt reviews.
Mytailor.com Online Shirt Review
First, we agreed to have a shirt made online in order to evaluate the process. Subsequently, I checked out the mytailor website, and the first thing that caught my eye, were the slow page load times of the website. Even though I do have a fast internet connection, it took more than a few seconds to load all the fabric samples. Maybe it had to do with the sheer number of fabrics presented on the mytailor.com website. I think I have never seen such an extensive, and at the same time refined shirt fabric selection anywhere else online.
Overall, you may choose from several hundreads, if not thousands of cloth samples! On the very top of the navigation bar, you will see the What’s New tab, which presents you Joe’s Recommendations. Joe Hemrajani is the owner of mytailor.com and puts together an decent selection ranging from mostly $89 to $139 per shirt. Other than that, they offer anything from $59 for cotton/polyester shirt, over $69 for a single ply cotton shirt up to $479 for a shirt made of the finest Super 300’s Cullinan fabric from David and John Anderson fabric, which is made by Albini. In between, you find the Thomas Mason Silver Range (also from Albini) – something that is often considered to be the premium line with other online shirt manufacturers like J. Hilburn – with prices from $139 to $229 a shirt, Thomas Mason Bespoke, Tessitura Monti, and their Prince Rose Collection as well as the 200’s Super collection. On top of that, they offer shirt fabrics from the British weaver Acorn and they also offer Somelos and Tessuto Teseo fabrics. Overall, you will find really anything ranging from the thickest winter twill to the thinnest summer fil-a-fil at mytailor.com
With so much choice at hand, I had a hard time deciding on a particular fabric. However, I had seen a particular shade of pale green in one of the Apparel Arts fashion illustrations and so I sorted through that color since I knew I would probably not find a bigger selection anywhere else.
Finally, I decided on summer a fabric from Acorn that was priced at $190. Afterwards, I was able to choose the shirt’s details.
Shirt, Collar, Cuffs & Details
First, I could choose between 15 collars or a custom collar. I decided to create my own collar by opting for a slightly higher and oversized English Wide Spread Collar with rounded ends. Even if you go with one of their standard collars, you can specify the point length as well as the back height of the collar. Moreover you can choose between the classic stitching which is ¼” inch away from the edge, or go with the more contemporary edge stitching. In my case, I went with the classic stitching since the design was after all inspired by a classic shirt from the 1930’s.
Next up were the cuffs on my long sleeved shirts and since my collar was rounded, I decided to go with a rounded double cuff. Both, my cuffs and collar were supposed to be in white cotton. Though, I could have chosen to get just a white collar or self cloth on both, the cuffs and the collar.
I decided against a chest pocket and for a placket front with their inverted pleat in the back. I opted for this pleat since you rarely see it offered with other manufacturers, though it the past, I was able to have a custom pleat made in the fashion of this jacket with a pleated back except for the back belt. In the mytailor.com pictures I could only see the top part of the pleat and I did not realize it was an open pleat.
The bottom should have the typical round cut. In the following I added a monogram on the waist for review purposes and added some comments with regard to my posture.
Overall, I was very happy with the selection offered and I also appreciated the possibility to custom design a collar. However, with all these options, I was a bit surprised to see that I could not choose between the stiffness of the interlining or even a sewn interlining.
Shirt Sizes & Measurements
In the next step, I had to choose between a standard size shirt, mailing in my best fitting shirt, body measurements and shirt measurements. As in our Deoveritas review, I decided to provide them with shirt measurements, since this is the best way to determine any kind of deviation.
When doing the shirt reviews, I always provide the same pictures and information with regard to my posture in order to get the fit right, and that’s what I did this time as well. Mr. Hemrajani wrote back to me rather instantly and pointed out, that some measurements seemed too little or too low based on the information, height, and weight I provided. Also he told me that I could either have just slightly rounded collar points or full rounded. I found this attention to detail very admirable. I was also informed, that all the premium fabrics such as Thomas Mason Gold, Acorn, David & John Anderson are special order fabrics and that it would need about 3 weeks to order them.
Surprisingly, I received the shirt just a little over 3 weeks after the initial order. Considering that this was a special order fabric I was quite impressed with the speed.
The fabric was superb, as expected though for some reason the shirt came with collars and cuffs in the shirt cloth and not in contrasting white collars and cuffs, although the order included these. Moreover, the armhole was way too big and was a whole 4 inches larger than my general armhole. Apart from that, I was not 100% happy with the shoulders and the back although it was overall a good fit, not a great one.
Subsequently, I learned that the armhole size is based on an internal formula and the collars and cuffs were simply a mistake on their end. So, instead of shipping the shirt back to them, I waited until the mytailor.com representative was in town so I could meet him in person.
Getting Measured by Mytailor.com
I made an appointment with Ram Keswani and when I arrived with the shirt, we looked at it closely and decided to do it over again. Mr. Keswani was very frank and told me what he thought was best, while emphasizing that they do whatever the client demands. For example, he argued that a large armhole creates more comfort when reaching for something and I showed him another shirt that had smaller armholes, yet it was more comfortable even when I reached for things. Also, we decided to change the sleeves a little bit and take away some fabric because of my sloping shoulders. Due to my hourglass figure, we also decided to opt for darts in the back rather than the open pleat. Also, Mr. Keswani took a number of pictures of me wearing the shirt, so mytailor would know what to change.
6 weeks after my appointment, I received another shirt in the mail. This time I was really happy with the result:
The white collar had a rather crisp interlining which is essential for white collar and cuffs in my opinion. The darts in the back work much better on my silhouette, the armholes were smaller and nevertheless very comfortable. Also, the shoulder and the sleeves look much better and had fewer wrinkles.
The shirt has straight single needle seams and a high stitch density of about 22 stitches an inch. The split yoke was essential for me because of my sloped shoulders and the gussets reinforce the end of the side seams reliably. The machine made buttonholes are functional and neat, but they do not have the highest stitch density and I have certainly seen more beautiful buttonholes before. The buttons are buttons are made of a rather unusual mother of pearl but are definitely a shell. They have a slightly larger diameter than most shirt buttons and also very high edges. Personally, I do not like the look of them too much, but that’s just personal preference. The buttons are sewn on without a shank which is not a problem in this case, because the fabric is so thin. The monogram is machine made and of good quality, though it is nothing special. I cannot say anything about pattern matching because it is a plain fabric.
Overall, the workmanship is decent and also the fit was much better the second time. Just like in our other MTM shirt reviews, it seems always difficult to get the fit right with the very first shirt, though the second one is always better. Also, it seems like setting up an initial meeting with a mytailor.com representative is definitely the way to go because, they can apply their standard processes and formulas that have worked for them in the past. Once the fit is right, subsequent orders can be completed online through their website.
Overall, mytailor.com offers the largest shirt fabric selection online we have come across so far and this definitely sets them apart from others. Now, if the mytailor.com website would load faster, I could look at all the cloth samples more quickly and comfortably.
Their standard options are very extensive, especially compared to the online competition although an armhole measurement as well as different interlining options would be excellent additions. The workmanship is neat and of good quality. Also, the ability to meet personally with mytailor staff in your city is definitely an advantage and the fit based on body measurements is very good.
You can visit the website at www.mytailor.com .