11 Bad Men’s Style “Rules” to Ignore

When you buy something using the affiliate links on our site, we may earn a small commission.

Here are a number of supposed style rules or pieces of advice that you may have heard before that we don’t necessarily think you need to follow all the time or in some cases at all.

Our primary mission here at the Gentleman’s Gazette is to educate our audience about what it means to be a Gentleman. And a big portion of that has to do with the history and traditions of classic menswear. Often when men are discussing these menswear traditions their conversation can come to be framed in terms of style rules that must be followed at all costs. While we certainly do believe that there are great many pieces of advice that are rooted in sound logic and the principles of aesthetics, thinking always in terms of ironclad rules that have to be followed is simplistic and pedantic and limits your options in terms of what you can wear stylishly. In other words, you don’t have to think of some of these things as rules that have to be followed a hundred percent of the time and some of the things we’re going to mention today can just be discarded altogether.

With that said, here are some supposed rules or pieces of advice that we think can be bent, broken or just left aside. These aren’t necessarily in any particular order of importance but we’ve numbered them today just to keep things consistent.

Nathan started to learn more about putting outfits together through the Gentleman's Gazette and other YouTube channels.
It is important to understand your body type and to know what fits you well.

1. Wear A Suit And Look Fantastic

Advice number one, just wear a suit and you’ll automatically look fantastic. While this piece of advice does advocate for dressing up which of course we support, it’s a little bit too simplistic in nature. As we’ve said countless times before in the channel, fit is the most important factor when wearing any outfit. You may have a suit that’s constructed from the most luxurious materials available but if it doesn’t fit your frame properly it’s still going to look sloppy.

Quality beats quantity everytime and a good fit is a great way to ensure great quality.
Quality beats quantity every time and a good fit is a great way to ensure great quality.

2. More Clothes, The Better / If It’s On Sale, Buy It

Two closely related tips, the more clothes you have in your closet the better and if it’s on sale in a store, buy it. Here’s the thing about these two related pieces of advice. Ultimately, quantity does not equal quality. You don’t need to have a pair of pants in every color under the sun or a jacket for each day of the month in your closet. There’s nothing wrong with having options, of course, but having a modestly sized closet full of garments that you wear regularly and that look good on you will ultimately serve you just as well if not better than having an excess of options. This dovetails into another tip don’t buy something you’re not going to wear. Even if you see a deal in a store and it’s 90% off, if you don’t think the garment in question is one that’s going to look good on you or one that won’t harmonize with other pieces in your wardrobe, don’t buy it. Save your money however small the amount may be for something that you will wear regularly.

3. Expensive = High Quality / Buy Only Name Brand Items

Another two closely related tips, if something is expensive it must be of high quality and you should only buy name-brand items. These are sort of the reverse of the tip about items being on sale. Just because something is very expensive or has a brand name associated with it doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s high quality. Oftentimes you’re really just going to be paying the extra money for the brand name itself. Whenever you’re buying any garment your primary focus should be on the quality of construction, the materials used and whether that garment in question will work well with other pieces in your wardrobe.

style trends in the second half of 20th century
Trends are trends for a reason

An easy way to get started with dressing better is to follow some of the current trends that are going on. It’s never a bad thing to want to upgrade your personal style unless you’re just doing it for superficial reasons or to fish for compliments. If you go out and buy a bunch of items of clothing that are trendy at the moment chances are that they’re probably going to be out of fashion in a year or maybe even less time. After all, trends are trends for a reason. Instead just invest in quality garments that follow these solid principles of aesthetics: fit, function, color theory and so on. If you do this, people’s compliments about your improving style will be genuine as will their respect.

5. Outfits Should Match / Black And Brown Don’t Go Together

A general tip and a more specific tip, everything in your outfit should match and more specifically that you can’t wear black and brown together. People often advocate for a monochromatic look because it’s a relatively safe way of looking put together after all you won’t have any wildly clashing colors if you’re wearing all the same color. Similarly, people say that black and brown are too fundamentally different in terms of formality to be paired together both of these tips require a bit more nuance to be helpful.

First of all, not every article of clothing in your outfit has to match exactly. The thing you should be shooting for is for all of your garments to harmonize in a way that’s aesthetically pleasing. For example, you could be wearing an all-black outfit but keep in mind that there are subtle variations in shades of black between different garments of different fabrics and with different dyes and so on. And if some of these blacks in your clothes are looking almost the same but not quite this can be jarring to the eye. And it might have been a better decision to wear something in different colors that harmonized well. Similarly, black and brown can absolutely be worn together if the garments in question harmonize in terms of intensity and formality.

6. Advice On Fit

Pieces of advice on fit. Things like you should wear all slim fit clothing if you want to look thinner or larger men should only wear clothing that’s more roomy. The bottom line with any advice in terms of fit is this. Properly fitted garments are ones that are proportional to your individual frame and thus that flatter you well. As an example, if a larger man is wearing slim fit clothing in order to look thinner but the garments are actually too tight on him, all of the wrinkling and tugging in different places around the outfit is just going to make him look too big for his clothing. On the other hand, a big man who has too much fabric on his frame is just going to look like a tent. Any well fitting article of clothing on you should be just loose enough to be comfortable and let you be mobile but still fitted enough so that it’s not billowing, sagging, dragging, or so on.

Raphael in a smartly put together fall ensemble
Raphael in a smartly put together autumn ensemble

7. Old Chestnuts About What Not To Wear

Some old chestnuts about what to wear-when. Like no wearing white after Labor Day, no wearing white before Memorial Day or no Brown in town. All of these supposed rules are entirely antiquated today. They got their start in the 19th century as a way for the old money aristocracy to easily socially separate themselves from the new money or nouveau riche as well as the lower classes. These old sayings are just rooted in classism and social stratification and as such, they really don’t have any place in the 21st century. While it is true that some informally styled brown suits or other brown ensembles aren’t totally appropriate for traditional white-collar business settings even this is starting to change to some extent.

In the broad-strokes for all of these tips, however, just remember that if it looks good on you you can wear it at any time.

Fred Astaire with a tie belt
Wearing a tie as a belt

8. Trousers With Belt Loops Needs A Belt

If your trousers have belt loops, you have to wear a belt. This tip comes from the fact that above all, most men’s clothing really is rooted in purpose and utility. Belt loops are another similarly utilitarian feature. After all, belts are designed to hold up your trousers but they were also historically used to carry things for men who were working. Because this use for belts is really only confined to a few industries or applications these days, you won’t see belts in as many situations. And think of it this way, if your trousers are really fitting properly you won’t absolutely have to have a belt to hold them up. As such you’ve got a variety of options for how to keep your trousers up whether or not they have belt loops. You could wear suspenders if your trousers also have suspender buttons. You could use side adjusters if your trousers have both loops and adjusters. You could use an old tie as a belt if you wanted to go for an especially casual look or yes you could go beltless. Ultimately, you just have to keep in mind the level of formality of the outfit you’re trying to assemble.

9. Leather And Metals Must Match

You always have to match the leathers and the metals in your outfits. This guideline is designed to help men who are just starting out with the principles of classic style to assemble outfits that are more harmonious. And while it’s never going to look bad if you match the metals or the leathers in your outfit you can also be tasteful about bending this rule. For example, you could be wearing gold cufflinks and a watch with a subtle and tasteful silver case or you could be wearing a darker brown belt with slightly lighter brown shoes. In either of these cases, no one is going to arrest you if you try to wear these items together. The key with pairing any articles of clothing is to make sure that no single element of your outfit is overpowering. As long as everything is working in harmony together and your elements are tasteful, you can go ahead and wear slightly different metals or leathers in the same outfit. With that said there are certain metallic tones and leather colors that harmonize better with specific skin tones.

10. Always Match Your Socks To Your Pants Or Shoes

You should always match your socks to either your pants or your shoes. This one has its roots and aesthetics basically the thinking is that if you match the color of your socks to the color of your shoes, your leg line is going to be broken up when you sit down or when your socks are otherwise exposed. Similarly, if you match the color of your socks to that of your pants, your leg line is always going to look longer. And while these two fundamental rules are true and sound, that doesn’t mean that you always have to feel like your socks should match your pants directly. After all, there’s been an ongoing trend over the last few decades for more crazy and colorful socks. And while we don’t necessarily advocate for socks that are really out there, you can feel free to wear them if you think they work with your casual outfit. Otherwise for a slightly more formal outfit feel free to match your socks to your shirt, your tie, or some other element of your outfit. Again the key here is harmony. It’s always going to be safest and most conservative if you match your socks to your pants but you don’t have to do so 100% of the time.

11. Follow The Advice Of Your Favourite Style Site

And finally, just follow all of the advice of your favorite style Youtubers or authors to the letter and you can’t go wrong. Obviously, we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette think that we’re providing the best advice possible to all men who are looking to upgrade their style. And while we do hope that you’ll follow the guidelines we put out. Keep in mind that they are just that guidelines. If you want to experiment to some extent to find your own personal style and expression, go ahead and do so! After all, at the end of the day, you are you and you can express your individuality however you so choose.

CONCLUSION

It’s helpful to think of the principles of classic menswear more as guidelines and guardrails than hard and fast rules. Some of these can be bent some of them can be broken from time to time and some of them can be discarded completely. If you’re just starting out on your menswear journey it can be helpful to follow some of these pieces of advice more closely so that you won’t be making grave mistakes. As you become more experienced however by knowing more of these guidelines you’ll be able to break them tastefully.

What did you think of our list? Are there any that you really think we got dead wrong in our advice? Do you think some of these rules should still be followed to the letter or do you have a different perspective? Whatever the case may be, share with us in the comments below.

Reader Comments

  1. The only “rule” I agree with is regarding belt loops. Yes, wear a damn belt! Or, take the loops off and wear braces.

    1. Enjoying this article, I find that each example is unique and helpful, especially not jumping into trends. Men’s fashion is exciting; useful for me as well.

    2. Couldn’t help but get the impression their observation on Fit was a dig at, Mens Warehouse. “You’re going to like the way you look”. Just buy one of their ( pre-packaged, mass produced ) suits and.., you’re going to knock ’em DEAD at the job interview, wedding etc.

      As if there was noting more to being well dressed than whipping out a credit card. Oh, if only things were that simple.

  2. Wear a tie as a belt? Never would I consider that but maybe someone somewhere could pull it off. Not me!!

    1. A tie as a belt does seem a little contrived, though maybe a repp tie as a belt through the loops of a pair of white ducks or white linen trousers at an America’s Cup regatta, or while punting on the Henley…

  3. A agree with twotone, above. I think belt loops without a belt gives an ‘unfinished’ look which detracts from the overall impression the outfit is intended to create. I suppose at a pinch, a tie through the loops is better than nothing ….

  4. I agree with those above. If your trousers have belt loops, you need to wear a belt. Would you wear your shoes without the laces? As IanR said, it looks “unfinished.”

    1. The exception would be if you wear a vest/waistcoat, which would cover the belt loops. I’m pretty sure we all agree on the idea that a belt doesn’t work with a vest.

  5. A truly innovative dresser would wear the belt without pants as a rather bold example of sprezzatura.

  6. This was a wonderful presentation. Professionally presented and very comprehensive! Kudos to your presenter and thanks to Gentlemen’ Gazette for its publication.

  7. First paragraph, last sentence of ‘5. Outfits Should Match … ‘, should this be two or too?

    1. It should indeed be “too.” Looks like the team that prepares our transcripts didn’t catch that one. Thanks for the catch, David, and for reading!

  8. Dear Preston ,
    The first thing I would stress is be careful of what you buy on sale ; in a lot of cases the items are very slow movers and may be right out of vogue in the next season .
    A man really does not need an excess of clobber , learn quality and how to wear it . I treasure my Burberry and my Crombie and they are close to 25years old .
    As you move further into manhood work out what it is that looks good on you and don’t drift too far away from it .
    Also learn about colours and what really works for you ; also it is hard to understate rubbish .

    Good article again Sir ;well done

  9. I agree with some suggestions while others are too trendy. Maybe you are trying to appeal to the Snowflakes. White after Labor Day? Blashpemy. Next you will write that Seersucker is out.

    1. I think it’s about having more freedom and knowing some rules are relative. What might not please asthetically me or you, which is unavoidable in experimentation, is not necessarily wrong. Of course rules have to be broken within reason and I think guidelines are useful as starting point as I think there are more or less risky combination. But who are the snowflakes? People trying too hard to be unique or just people who conform less and genuinely like more leeway?

  10. #5= Black and brown go great together if done properly. Think of a well cut black suit with some brown leather oxfords or Mod boots. Nice! Black jacket over brown slacks- not so nice.

  11. On a sidenote: the tone of the comments on this site here is far more civilized than underneath your Youtube-Viodeos. One does wonder why many of those commentators are even tempted to click on a video with the word “Gentleman” in the title.

    1. True, we also get a lot more comments on youtube than here… It’s by no means an excuse but you always have to compare comments on the platform. I’d say comments on our site are more civilized than on many other websites, and the same is true for youtube channels. If you go through other channels youtube comments you sometimes just have to shake your head. While we have those crazy comments as well, on average they are much more civilized than on most other youtube channels I have come across.

  12. Criticism of the, “[T]hink of it this way, if your trousers are really fitting properly you won’t absolutely have to have a belt to hold them up,” advice surprises me.

    Attending high school and college back during 1980’s blue jeans left unbelted and a tucked-in shirt sufficed everday for most guys including myself. Suits were 3 piece ones with a vest, that covered the empty belt loops. So, don’t remember wearing a belt until dark navy blue 2 piece pinstripe “Power Suits” worn with white dress shirt and maroon red or yellow tie became the rage around 1990.

    Today suit trousers don’t have the baggy pleats popular through 1990’s into first decade of 2000’s, when a belt helped excess fabric curtain and drape neatly. With the fit of slim trousers nowadays analagous to Levi’s 501 jeans, skipping belt and wearing them like favorite pair of jeans only seems logical.

  13. I usually prefer matching shoes and socks, I get the point of the broken line but they can be elongating in a different way, not isolating the shoe. Unless one wears cropped pants that shows lots of ankle, which is less classic (but legit to me, more freedom, though I might dress differently) at most 1 or 2 inche of ankle would typically show in a suit when standing or walking, more ankle would only show when sitting and then height wouldn’t matter that much if any :). I sometimes match, like brown on brown, but sometimes coordinate and might pair dark purple or crimson socks with brown shoes.
    But I like to match shirt too. Or just wear black, then I might wear more color elsewhere. I’m not big on suits but if I had to, I wouldn’t want it overly unimaginative and serious, so, great tips, especially on the color theory. I think blue or gray-blue dress pants and coats work with it. Be it more traditional or more daring but with taste, more power to you.

  14. OOOHHHHH, major faux pas, for such otherwise perfection seen throughout article: the image: ‘Silver watch with Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Tiger’s Eye Balls by Fort Belvedere’ is revealing GRANDIOSE wear & tear on the leather-covered buttons, on the sleeve of the camel-hair sport coat. I would be cringing if i saw this face-to-face, sorry… but i love this website, & am very grateful for your training ‘Gentlemen’, & for your attention to details that matter to my heart, 99% of the time? LOL (fashion/costume designer, tailor, seamstress for the band)

Comments are closed.