My Men’s Shoe Collection

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This is something a lot of subscribers have asked about and we’re happy to oblige. In my opinion, this should be the minimal shoe collection of every man out there! No, just kidding! Honestly, I have a lot of shoes and I got a lot of them for free sent by companies. If I had to buy each and every shoe, probably my collection would be a lot smaller.

Monk Straps

Herring Shoes Monk Shoe - burnished calf tan
Herring Shoes Monk Shoe – burnished calf tan

I have six pairs in my collection. The first one is a monk strap from Herring shoes, it’s Goodyear welted with a gold buckle, it goes well with brown and green outfits.

Wingtip monk strap shoes with Fort Belvedere socks
Wingtip monk strap shoes with Fort Belvedere socks

The second one is a hand grade from Crockett and Jones, it has broguing on it which is unusual, it’s a hand grade model which means it’s higher in quality and it has a silver buckle, could be worn casually and with a business suit.

Cognac Brown captoe medallion monk strap shoe by Ace Marks
Cognac Brown captoe medallion monk strap shoe by Ace Marks

The third one is a slightly darker tan with a ½ brogue medallion, it’s from Ace Marks, also with a silver buckle.

Dark brown double monks paired with OTC socks from Fort Belvedere
Dark brown double monks paired with OTC socks from Fort Belvedere

Now we’re talking double monks. This is a dark chocolate brown one with a cap toe from Shoe Passion, it’s Goodyear welted, I think made in Spain.

Black double monk straps by Ace Marks
Black double monk straps by Ace Marks paired with OTC Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks from Fort Belvedere

This black double monk strap from Ace Marks is blake rapid stitched with silver buckles and it goes well with outfits such as formal business suits that usually call for black oxfords.

Monkstrap Brandy Antique
Monkstrap Brandy Antique

The other monk strap is likewise from Ace Marks and has a nice oxblood or burgundy red color, likewise silver buckles, and I really like the last, it really works well for my foot and so I like to combine it with a lot of different outfits.

Black Oxford Shoes

Traditional English Black captoe oxfords by Church's
Traditional English Black captoe oxfords by Church’s

This is the very first pair of black oxford I had in my collection and I still have it today. I bought it used, it was Church’s and at that time, it was a very high-end quality model. The cool part about it is that it has a linen lining rather than a leather lining. I always found that to be more comfortable than all leather. This shoe has been resold many times and reheeled and you can see the leather is a little more cracking simply because it has a lot of wear on it.

The next black oxford is likewise a cap toe, I had a rubber sole added for the rain, it’s from Cheaney which at the time was part of Church’s but it’s a very old shoe so it’s not the same Cheaney as you know today. Both the Church and the Cheaney were Goodyear welted and made in England.

This shoe here is made in Spain. It’s a little more contemporary, it’s still a cap toe oxford but I’m wearing it with shoelaces from Fort Belvedere and you can see there’s a slightly different cut. I think it’s made by Andrew Lock.

Black captoe Oxfords with navy trousers and striped Fort Belvedere socks in yellow and navy
Black captoe Oxfords with navy trousers and striped Fort Belvedere socks in yellow and navy

Next up is a quarter brogue with just some broguing on the cap toe, it’s very subtle that makes it a little less formal. I think it’s a very nice business shoe, has a nice last, it’s made by Pediwear and Goodyear welt in England.

Black Half Brogue Oxfords by Ace Marks
Black Half Brogue Oxfords by Ace Marks

The next style I like quite a bit. It is a half brogue, meaning you have a cap toe with a full medallion brogue and you’ve broguing on the sides, but it’s not a full brogue which would be a wingtip on top. I used to have a full black wingtip in my collection but I never wore it because the broguing is too casual and the black is too formal and so I just donated it.

Wholecut Oxford Plain Toe Black Antique
Wholecut Oxford Plain Toe Black Antique

This one here is Blake rapid stitch made in LA by Ace Marks. This one here is a black whole cut from Ace Marks oxford last again blake rapid, made in Italy.

Non-Black Oxfords

Dark Brown Medallion toe oxfords
Dark Brown Medallion toe oxfords

First, this chocolate brown one. I think it was made by Loake, it is kind of an unusual style with a medallion on top but it’s not quite classic, yet it still works well with lots of outfits.

Dark burgundy patinaed "wholecuts" with back seam oxfords by Paul Evans
Dark burgundy patinaed “wholecuts” with back seam oxfords by Paul Evans

This is a Blake rapid shoe made in Italy by Paul Evans, it has a very nice patina, deep brown, hand burnished, but the last is slightly different. It’s a little round and not quite classic, a little more modern. Brown comes in thousands of different shades so I always try to get shoes that are slightly different because that enables me to create better outfits.

Hand burnished captoe half brogue Oxford by Ace Marks
Hand-burnished cap toe half brogue Oxford by Ace Marks

This half brogue Oxford is made in Italy by Ace marks, it’s blake rapid stitched and I like this kind of in-between chocolate brown and medium brown color.

Vintage Church's Oxfords in brown that Sven Raphael Schneider bought used in the early 2000s
Vintage Church’s Oxfords in brown that Sven Raphael Schneider bought used in the early 2000s

This was the first Brown Oxford I had. It was likewise a Church’s with a linen lining and you can see, it’s quite beat-up and I rarely wear it anymore, maybe if the weather is really bad outside or if I get sentimental but I don’t want to give it up because it was the first brown oxford in my collection.

Quarter Brogue Oxford by Beckett Simonon - while the last is attractive the shoe is stiff and resulted in blisters
Quarter Brogue Oxford by Beckett Simonon – while the last is attractive the shoe is stiff and resulted in blisters

Next up is more of a quarter brogue in the front with some broguing on the sides. It’s from Beckett Simonon, I think it’s made in Portugal, Goodyear welted, it has a really nice last, the leather is quite hard so breaking them in takes a long time.

The next one is an unusual oxford in the sense that it is navy blue, it’s a spectator with gray inserts, I think it’s made in Spain by J Fitzpatrick.

White buckskin oxford shoes with Fort Belvedere Colored Shoelaces
White buckskin oxford shoes with Fort Belvedere Colored Shoelaces

This one is made out of white buckskin. It is a full brogue oxford but it works because it’s white and bright. I wear it with seersucker outfits and sometimes I change the color of the shoelaces depending on what tie I am wearing so it all goes quite well together. This one is from Shoe Passion and it was made in Spain.

Green suede full brogue Oxfords by Scarosso with purple shoelaces by Fort Belvedere
Green suede full brogue Oxfords by Scarosso with purple shoelaces by Fort Belvedere

This one here is also highly unusual it’s a dark forest green oxford full brogue from Scarosso, made in Italy, blake rapid construction, and I like it because it’s different and I can wear it especially with seersuckers or summery outfits for when I want to create an interesting contrast that is dark yet unusual.

Derby Shoes

Allen Edmonds Derby Shoes with Orange Shoelaces by Fort Belvedere - Before & After
Allen Edmonds Derby Shoes with Orange Shoelaces by Fort Belvedere – Before & After

I don’t have a single black one in my collection. Instead, I have a dark chocolate brown one here from Allen Edmonds, it’s a long wing tip, a nice chocolate brown, I think it’s German leather, made by Allen Edmonds. It was their presidential line which was a higher grade than their regular shoes. I combine them with a pair of shoelaces from Fort Belvedere.

St. Crispin Derby with Light Grey Shoelaces by Fort Belvedere Before & After
St. Crispin Derby with Light Grey Shoelaces by Fort Belvedere Before & After

Next up is a pair of chocolate deer suede shoes from Saint Crispin’s, they were custom made, and I put in some colored shoelaces because it works well with the brown tones. I had this shoe in my collection for a very long time and it has traveled many times.

Oxblood derby shoes with Grey Socks with Light Grey and Black Clocks in Cotton - Fort Belvedere with mustard yellow trousers
Oxblood derby shoes with Grey Socks with Light Grey and Black Clocks in Cotton – Fort Belvedere with mustard yellow trousers

Here, you can probably see one of the most versatile colors in menswear which is an oxblood shoe or dark burgundy, this one is Goodyear welted, made in Spain, but the last is quite long and elegant, more like what you would expect from a French shoe. I think the brand is Union Cobbler.

suit slacks in mid-brown with split toe derbys
suit slacks in mid-brown with split toe derbys paired with Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Charcoal and Orange from Fort Belvedere

This is a brown Norwegian toe welt shoe from Mannina in Florence, made in Italy, and I bought it many years ago. It’s kind of a medium brown and it works with a lot of things.

Mid Brown Full Brogue Derby Shoes by Ace Marks
Mid Brown Full Brogue Derby Shoes by Ace Marks

Next up is a full brogue in a medium brown, hand burnished from Ace Marks, blake rapid stitch, made in Italy. I like it because the patina and the last works well for my foot.

This shoe is a little more unusual, it has kind of a woven leather structure combined with a wingtip, it’s made by Allen Edmonds in a beautiful kind of burnished chestnut brown. I combined it with burgundy shoelaces from Fort Belvedere, Goodyear welted, made in the USA.

Lussoti full brogue derby shoes in tan with darker cap
Lussoti full brogue derby shoes in tan with darker cap

Next up is a Goodyear welted derby with a strong patina and color changes from the cap to the rest of the leather. I like the look of it. The leather is not the best quality. The brand is called Lussoti and I do not even know where they’re made, they don’t even say it on their shoes, it is just something that’s showed up in the mail.

This pair here was the very first pair of quality men’s dress shoes I bought. It’s from Ludwig Reiter and It’s Goodyear welted, has been resold many times and if I had to do it all over again, it would not be the first style of shoe I bought but back then, it cost me about a hundred euros which was a great bargain for a then-new shoe. So I’m still having them in my collection which is true evidence that quality lasts and the cost per wear is way low.

Allen Edmonds brown and white specator derby wingtip shoes
Allen Edmonds brown and white specator derby wingtip shoes with Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Charcoal and Orange from Fort Belvedere

This shoe I bought years ago at Nordstrom Rack, it’s a spectator from Allen Edmonds, made in the US, Goodyear welted but it’s on a quite elegant Belair last. While I like these more modern lasts from Allen Edmonds, I think it almost put them out of business so they went back to producing their classic Park Avenue one. I don’t think you can find this style anymore today.

Olive green derby shoes by Carlos Santos with navy trousers and yellow and navy striped socks by Fort Belvedere
Olive green derby shoes by Carlos Santos with navy trousers and Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks by Fort Belvedere

Next up is a green derby shoe, it’s an elegant French style last, it’s made in Portugal, Goodyear welted by Carlos Santos. Obviously, this kind of olive green color is unusual. The tip is darker so you can wear it with darker suits. It’s just a shoe that you can wear to a cocktail party or to events where you don’t want to be flashy yet different.

Loafers

Loafers are difficult for me because they are very slim heeled and oftentimes, they’re too wide and I slip out.

Tassel Loafer in Olive Green
Tassel Loafer in Olive Green

These ones here are olive green with brown tassels from Scarosso, also made in Italy, Blake stitched or Blake rapid stitched, I’m not quite sure. I like them because they’re different, they’re perfect for summer outfits, and I wear them quite a bit.

medium brown penny loafers
medium brown penny loafers

These medium brown penny loafers are very classic, they have a nice hand burnished patina, made in Italy, Blake rapid by Ace Marks.

Chocolate brown Penny Loafers with purple and dark green socks by Fort Belvedere and light grey pants
Chocolate brown Penny Loafers with Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Green and Purple by Fort Belvedere and light grey pants

Now, these chocolate brown penny loafers are slightly different. They’re from a company named Founders, they’re made in Italy, and they’re a lot stiffer and thicker than the others. I think they are more on the American style even though they’re made in Italy.

Meermin cordovan tassel loafers in oxblood color
Meermin cordovan tassel loafers in oxblood color

Now here’s a shoe that is quite beat-up and if you haven’t already noticed, some of the other shoes are not in perfect shape either, we’re preparing for a shoe polishing series and we need before-and-after examples, so that’s what we’re doing here. This shoe is made out of cordovan leather, Japanese cordovan, it has tassels, it’s great for travel because you can slip out. The color is very versatile, its Goodyear welted, and it’s made in China, and it’s very stiff as you can see. It’s not like the Italian shoes that are very flexible, the brand is Meermin which are related to Carmina yet these are made in China, not in Spain.

Evening Shoes

I wear these with my black tie and white tie ensembles.

Here’s the very first evening shoe I ever had. It’s made in Austria by Ludwig Reiter and Austria has a fantastic black tie and white tie culture so they wear it a lot. You can see the sole is quite thin, it’s not thick, and it’s made out of patent leather, there’s no cap toe and the rounded last is typically Viennese.

The one you can see here is a slightly more progressive version, it’s a nice last, it’s quite an elegant patent leather, again, no cap toe and you can see these are wide Fort Belvedere grosgrain shoelaces, this is actually a prototype from Fort Belvedere that we made and who knows? maybe we run them into production if there’s enough demand for it.

Opera pumps also known as court shoes
Opera pumps also known as court shoes

Likewise, this is another prototype from us, a classic opera pump with a bow and a deep cut out with an elegant last, I wear them usually with white tie and sometimes also with black tie depending on my mood.

Casual Shoes

Red Sebago boat shoes with white soles and leather laces
Red Sebago boat shoes with white soles and leather laces

First up, there is this kind of salmon red boat shoe from Sebago that used a horween leather and I like it because it’s an unusual color.

Worn navy and light green boat shoes with white leather laces
Worn navy and light green boat shoes with white leather laces

Also, I have this old weathered boat shoe from Eastland likewise with horween leather in navy and green, I still like it, I still wear it even though it has this weathered used look.

Vintage inspired PF Flyers off white canvas shoes with accents of red and blue
Vintage inspired PF Flyers off white canvas shoes with accents of red and blue

Another interesting summer sneaker for beach vacations is this one here, it comes in a cream or off-white, it’s made by PF Flyers and it was part of a vintage collection they created a couple of years ago. I like it quite a bit because it has that vintage look and that’s a new shoe and it’s quite casual.

Bright green PF Flyers canvas shoes with white rimmed rubber sole
Bright green PF Flyers canvas shoes with white rimmed rubber sole

They also sent me this shoe here in a much brighter green which can work well with shorts and a polo shirt if you want to make a statement with your shoes.

Alpargatas bought in Mallorca from a small shop. Made with jute soles and rubber bottoms
Alpargatas bought in Mallorca from a small shop. Made with jute soles and rubber bottoms

Next up are some alpargatas which are made in Majorca. It’s a u2 sole with some rubber, it’s a very lightweight one, I bought it from a maker in Majorca and it’s a very traditional shoe there. It’s nice in the summer or if you are at the beach. If you want kind of a stylish casual alternative to flip-flops, this is what you need.

Shoe made of tie fabric and leather, without toe or heel caps but with car tire sole and heel
Shoe made of tie fabric and leather, without toe or heel caps but with car tire sole and heel

This one here is very similar to the alpargatas, it was made by the same guy, he used some Thai silk with leather and rubber that’s like vulcanized similar to a car tire, so it’s very hard-wearing and it has a low heel, not much structure, but they are very airy and great for summer casual outfits.

I know some won’t believe it but I also have flip-flops in my collection, after all, I’m Brazilian. My father’s from Brazil and when I am at the beach there, I wear flip-flops. To work out or play racquetball, I have this pair of Asics shoes that I like quite a bit and I have insoles in there which are much thicker and better for you. So if you have a sport like squash or racquetball or anything that’s hard on your joints, the insole will definitely help.

Nike workout shoes in blue
Nike workout shoes in blue

For other workouts, I just use regular tennis shoes just like this one here from Nike which they sent to me, quite lightweight, very breathable, not much structure and support in the heel or toe though.

Outfit Rundown

I am wearing an olive green jacket which is part of a suit. I combined it with a very small-scale blue white and green houndstooth patterned shirt with a big kind of 70s-inspired collar. I wore it with yellow silk knit tie that works well with the yellow pocket square with hand-rolled x stitches.

Raphael in an olive green jacket, houndstooth shirt and paired with chinos.
Raphael in an olive green jacket, houndstooth shirt and paired with chinos.
Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk

Fort Belvedere

Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Navy Blue and Royal Blue Fil d'Ecosse Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Navy Blue and Royal Blue Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Pale Yellow Linen Pocket Square with Yellow Handrolled X Stitch - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Pale Yellow Linen Pocket Square with Yellow Handrolled X Stitch

My pants are classic sand-colored chinos and I combined them with purple and turquoise socks with shadow stripes and they work well with a turquoise leather lining of my green velvet House shoes which are slippers which I have two of course.

Any suggestions as to what pairs of shoes need to be added to my collection? What does yours look like?

Reader Comments

    1. When I was a poor student, of course I bought used shoes, disinfected them and enjoyed them. Some people would never buy vintage clothes. At the end of the day, it is each to his own.

  1. Damn Sven! Most times I think, hell I have better looking, cooler style or as cool! But that’s one hell of a collection! With AceMark I’m going to try and catch you!

    Thanks as always!

    Mike

  2. Really enjoyed this video, Raphael. Especially liked seeing the colors of the outfits you used with each shoe, for it gave me fresh ideas. Good pacing on the information, too.

    I have no trouble with getting used shoes, Robin. I might get a really great product at a reasonable price. If it’s in good shape, why not? Assuming you’d never bowl? :-) (FWIW, my wife thinks used shoes are nasty, too.)

    –David

  3. In the years before Y2K, I’d amassed a few good pairs of Bally, Johnston and Murphy (when the had more formal styles), and Churches shoes. Then, around 2001-2, my foot sized changed from a 10.5 US to an 11 after25 years and though I tried, it was to painful to try and wear those shoes. And I took good care of them too. Gave them to Goodwill. Now I have a nice collection of Moreschis, Churchs, Magnannis and Santonis. I find some very good buys on eBay, brand new, such as a nice formal pair from Magnanni for $100, new! Anyway, my collection covers the bases as yours does and I learned to take care of them years ago. My philosphy to my son is; buy the best high quality shoe you can, on sale. A good shoe will make a “cheap” suit look better than the opposite.

  4. Sven, Thank you so much for sharing! A several of my favorite pairs I bought “used”, but they were in excellent shape. One, a nice Allen Edmunds tassel loafer, another a beautiful brown Johnson & Murphy oxfords. Get lots of complements on them. Keep up the great work.

  5. More spectators! Saddle shoes too. Damn am I jealous. Thought my thirty pairs were a big deal. Sven is the schuhemeister. I bow humbly before him. :-)

  6. Oh my, I hope you know you made a lot of us jealous. This collection is definitely most impressive. Thanks a lot for this presentation and may your collection grow and prosper furtheron.

    1. The goal was not to make other jealous but to provide a peek into my collection of things as that has been a frequent request by readers and viewers.

      1. I must excuse if my words were taken as malicious. My words were maybe not well chosen.

        What I meant to say is that it is a collection probably many of us are impressed by and could dream of.

  7. I did not see any boots?! Chelsea boots or the like? Nothing for you?

  8. Apart from the English Oxford shoe and the Monk shoe,none of the others would ever be worn by a Gentleman.Well,an English Gentleman.An American Gentleman might though!

  9. Danke Sven – super Video, wie immer. Bin gespannt aufs versprochene Schuhpflegevideo. Kann ich brauchen!! (Hab übrigens auch so manche gebrauchte Kleider gekauft, finde nichts verkehrtes dran, ist sogar umweltfreundlich!)
    Beste Grüsse

  10. SHOES WITH LASTS FOR WIDER, FLAT FEET, COMFORTABLE ENOUGH FOR MEN WITH ON AGAIN OFF AGAIN FOOT DISCOMFORT (e.g. plantar fasciitis), YET SUITABLE FOR BUSINESS, OFFICE ATTIRE.
    BLACK, BURGUNDY OXFORDS. SUGGESTIONS, PLEASE.

  11. I have found many high quality previoulsly owned shoes on eBay. I especially like to buy Allen Edmonds WA try h the uppers in great shape. I send them to the company for a re- solingand refurbishing. They take the bottoms off and I lace the uppers on the original last. Then they give you an entire new bottom, and re- dye for $125.00 they come back looking new and ready for your own foot’s imprint.

  12. Ha, my wife thinks I have a shoe problem!

    Great video. I have a weakness for cap toes and broguing but particularly like the two green loafers and have added them to my wish list.

  13. Another timely article, Sven. I sometimes think that we are telepathetically connected. I am tasked with arranging Meghan’s hen night but do not mind helping with the wedding too. The bride, as everyone knows, must wear something old, something new, something borrowed, and something blue, and, as everyone knows, Americans wear blue suede shoes. If you could lend us one of your pairs it would cover the old, borrowed and blue all at once. Meghan isn’t about at the moment to ask her size, so it would be more comfortable if you send your largest pair and we can stuff them with newspaper if too large which will be better than too small. There is the problem that Meghan is American and homesick and may start wearing them before the wedding. The hen party is to follow the shortest route between the public houses of Slough, the reason why Meghan’s heart is set on Windsor Castle, so that they can have at least one drink in each, ending at the one likely to have the largest number of local slappers for the customary fight. I say there is a problem because tradition dictates that the walk home is performed with no shoes, very often because they have been lost by that time of the night. Perhaps you could send two pairs to be on the safe side?

  14. Sorry that Harry’s pa has been bothering you, Sven. Apart from him, I’m really liking it here. Did you know that they don’t just have the one big drunk tank for everybody? On Saturday night I had my own cell with a toilet and and a bed and everything.

  15. A modest collection at best… and dump the ones with pointy toes….

  16. Have you thought about adding horsebit loafers to this? I was given a pair of the Gucci ones. Very expensive, but rather elegant I’d say!

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