Beau Brummell: The First Menswear Influencer?

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When it comes to historical menswear, few names rank higher than that of George Bryan “Beau” Brummel, the English dandy, gentleman of leisure, and, in a way, menswear influencer. We suspect that if it had been around in 1810, Beau Brummell would have been all over Instagram and maybe even TikTok. Today, we answer the question of just why he was so stylish!

During his time, Brummell was a genuine tastemaker whose views on menswear would influence fashion and whose style would resonate for years to come. Not only is he credited with popularizing many of the conventions of classic menswear, but his fascinating life also provided ample material for countless short stories, books, films, and tv shows – in particular a 1954 film adaptation starring Stewart Granger and Elizabeth Taylor.

George Bryan "Beau" Brummel
George Bryan “Beau” Brummel. [Image Credit: Wikipedia.org]

And throughout the years, advertising has traded on his reputation of cleanliness, fastidiousness, and modishness. Although, ironically, Beau Brummell himself probably wouldn’t have been a big fan of these particular ties.

Beau Brummell may have lived over 175 years ago, but his influence on menswear can still be felt today. After all, how many influencers do you know who have a statue on London’s Jermyn Street?

Beau Brummel's statue in London's Jermyn Street.
Beau Brummel’s statue in London’s Jermyn Street. [Image Credit: The Secret City]

The Early Years of Beau Brummell

To go deeper, though, it only makes sense to start from the beginning, so let’s dive into Brummell’s early years. In keeping with our belief that a gentleman is made by the choices of his life and not the circumstances of his birth, we should note that Beau Brummell didn’t come from a traditionally aristocratic background.

Still, Brummell’s father, William, was a private secretary to Lord Frederick North, member of the British Parliament and Prime Minister of Great Britain from 1770 to 1782. Thanks to hard work and valuable connections, the Brummell family enjoyed a solidly middle-class lifestyle, but the family patriarch wanted more for young Beau and his brother, also named William. He wanted them to be gentlemen and here we mean “gentlemen” in its historic sense – entitled, wealthy men of privilege.

Lord Frederick North.
Lord Frederick North. [Image Credit: Wikipedia.org]

Both Beau and William were educated at Eton, an elite English boarding school, where Beau showed an early penchant for developing new takes on fashion. For example, he took the white cravat traditionally worn by Eton students of the time, and accessorized it with a gold buckle. Brummell was a mediocre student, but he developed a flair for wit and comedic timing, making him a favorite of his classmates and teachers.

Returning to our social media analogy, then, Brummell’s tweets probably would have gone viral most of the time.

Beau attended Oxford for just one term before deciding to focus on developing his own personal brand.
Beau attended Oxford for just one term before deciding to focus on developing his own personal brand. [Image Credit: University of Oxford]

He later attended the prestigious Oxford University, but he left after just one term. Just like a modern influencer, Brummell wanted to focus on developing his personal brand, so he set his books aside and ventured out into the real world.

When Brummell’s father died, then-16-year-old Beau inherited a considerable fortune of between 20 and 30,000 pounds – equal to multiple millions of pounds today. But, while this sum was impressive, it wasn’t enough for Beau, who wanted to ascend to the very apex of the social ladder, le bon ton. This is a French phrase that literally means “well-mannered,” but it also referred, at the time, to the cream of English society.

As can be seen in a French caricature of the period, the gentlemen of le bon ton were noted for their exuberant style and foppish dress.

Beau wanted to ascend to the top of the social ladder, Le Bon Ton.
Beau wanted to ascend to the top of the social ladder, Le Bon Ton. [Image Credit: Facebook – Emily Larkin]

So, if Brummell, the son of a private secretary, was to flock with peacocks like these, he needed a friend upon whom he could depend. And lucky for him, he found one of the most powerful friends in the land, George Augustus Frederick, the Prince of Wales, future Prince Regent, and, later, King George IV.

Shortly before his father’s death, Brummell had the idea to enlist in the cavalry, specifically the 10th Royal Hussars, the favored regiment of the Prince of Wales. Brummell hoped that this appointment would give him the opportunity to meet with the regiment’s royal patron.

George Augustus Frederick
George Augustus Frederick. [Image Credit: Wikipedia.org]

Brummell’s greatest military exploit was getting kicked in the face by a horse, which broke his nose, but he still did manage to make a good impression on the Prince of Wales through his wit and style. Thus, he was able to secure a promotion from the lowest commissioned rank of cornet to lieutenant, and later, to captain.

The Beginning Beau Brummel’s Style Influence

British regiments at this time, though, rotated their garrisons from town to town, and when the 10th Royal Hussars were sent to the relatively sleepy town of Manchester in 1797, Brummell decided to drop out of the military and go to London instead. By resigning his commission like this, Brummell was essentially doing the same thing as a modern influencer when they quit their job and moved to Los Angeles.

Brummel decided to leave the military and move to London.
Brummel decided to leave the military and move to London. [Image Credit: Odyssey Traveller]

And it was here that his days as a style influencer truly began as, in London, Brummell experienced the height of his popularity. And again, due to his close friendship with the Prince of Wales, Brummell was able to climb the social ladder even faster than he had risen in the British Military.

Thanks to his innate sense of style and mastery of the conventions of taste, Brummell was able to devise new and innovative forms of fashion. And thanks to his powerful friendship, these new forms of dress were soon adopted by English gentlemen across the country.

Before the movement, men's clothes were heavily influenced by the French Court.
Before the movement, men’s clothes were heavily influenced by the French Court. [Image Credit: Wikipedia.org]

Brummell is best remembered today for his involvement in a fashion revolution known as the “Great Male Renunciation.” Before this movement, fashionable men’s clothes were much more flamboyant, heavily influenced by the French Court. They often featured things like elaborate wigs, white hair powder, perfume, ornate silks, and knee breeches with stockings. But, Brummell and other supporters of the Great Male Renunciation believed in renouncing this ostentation.

Instead, they wore looks featuring natural unadorned hair, long trousers worn with boots, and coats that didn’t feature much ornamentation. In doing so, Brummell rejected the showy and decadent ensembles that obscured or exaggerated the male physique and illustrated the value of simple but elegant garments that complemented and enhanced the masculine figure.

Brummel illustrated the value of simple yet elegant garments that enhanced the masculine figure.
Brummel illustrated the value of simple yet elegant garments that enhanced the masculine figure.

Brummell was famous for ensembles that combined simple and flattering cuts and exquisite tailoring with impeccable craftsmanship and high quality – but not gaudy – materials. The previously popular flowing silk or velvet coats with gold and pearl buttons and ribbons or lace, heavily embroidered waistcoats, neck roughs and jabots, and culottes gave way to more sedate jackets in fine wool cut closer to the body with plain shirts, waistcoats, and cravats, full trousers, and boots or evening shoes.

Brummell’s Most Common Looks

His standard day attire consisted of a blue coat known as “Bath coating” – often wool – with a buff waistcoat, off-white linen shirt with a white cravat, buckskin trousers, and dark riding boots. In the evening, he often wore a blue coat as well with a white or black waistcoat, black trousers that ended at the ankle, striped silk socks, and black slippers.

As a bit of background here, the vogue for continental styles, especially from France, that had gripped England for decades had been broken by the violence of the French Revolution and by English wars against Napoleon Bonaparte.

Meanwhile, Brummell was assembling a home-grown, British fashion movement, in which he adapted and perfected many of the already existing forms of British dress.

The boots, buckskin trousers, and use of wool all evoked country wear, which remains an important part of British tailoring even to this day.

The classic pairing of blue and buff was already known as the colors of the Whig political party.
The classic pairing of blue and buff was already known as the colors of the Whig political party. [Image Credit: Colonel Unthank’s Norwich]

Brummell’s variation on the tailcoat – and especially its use of brass buttons – was popularly worn at Eton. The classic menswear pairing of blue and buff was already commonly known as the colors of the Whig political party. And a cravat worn high on the neck had been popularized in France after the Revolution as the more ostentatious ruff, and jabots had fallen out of favor as the necks that wore them were subjected to the guillotine.

Even the streamlined silhouette and muted colors of Brummell’s style were meant to echo the subtle dynamism of statuary from classical Greece, which was in vogue at the time because of the enlightenment’s renewed interest in neoclassicism and Hellenism.

The hybrid menswear we see today is a continuation of Brummel's style.
The hybrid menswear we see today is a continuation of Brummel’s style. [Image Credit: Atte Rytkonen – @dresslikeA on Instagram]

So, consider how the hybrid menswear looks we see today, like an English glen check pattern in an unstructured Italian-style jacket with an American-style denim shirt, represent a continuation of Brummell’s style by taking the best aspects of different cultural approaches to menswear and making of them a global synthesis.

British vs. Italian vs. American – Suit Fashions & Silhouettes

Brummell Influence on Menswear Principles

Brummel understood the timeless versatility of clothing that represented an understated elegance and had a disdain for anything that was over the top. This was partly achieved by establishing a limited range of appropriate colors and the color theory for combining them through contrast as we still do when pairing the colors of blue, brown, and gray in various combinations today.

Brummel would influence the sport coat and trouser combination as he preferred not to match his coat with his trousers.
Brummel would influence the sport coat and trouser combination as he preferred not to match his coat with his trousers.
Grenadine Silk Tie in Navy Blue

Fort Belvedere

Grenadine Silk Tie in Navy Blue – Fort Belvedere

A plain white linen pocket square on a white background

Fort Belvedere

White Linen Pocket Square with Handrolled Edges made in Italy – Fort Belvedere

Brummell’s styling would influence the historical development of the modern suit, but it would even more directly influence the sport coat and trouser combination, as Brummell preferred not to match his coat with his trousers. Brummell also emphasized neckwear as the ornamental center of attention in an outfit, which continues with bow ties and neckties today.

His efforts help to enshrine high-contrast black and white as the colors of evening formal wear that we still observe; while formal morning dress with its long morning coat and contrasting trousers, along with a lightly-colored waistcoat, most directly follows the regency attire that Brummell himself actually wore.

Brummel's styling would influence the historical development of the modern suit.
Brummel’s styling would influence the historical development of the modern suit.

Many of the behaviors and conventions of the menswear connoisseurs of today also directly follow on from Beau Brummell. He utilized bespoke clothing to get the exact details that he desired, and he employed the services of multiple tailors for different garments in which they specialized.

He also artfully sought to carefully arrange every last detail of his outfit to, ironically, give it a nonchalant appearance. For example, it was commonly said that Brummell would spend hours arranging his neckwear just to make it look as though he had casually tied it at a moment’s notice.

Modern gentlemen would do things like spending a considerable amount of time getting their pocket square in their breast pocket to make it look though it was only placed casually.
Modern gentlemen would do things like spending a considerable amount of time getting their pocket square in their breast pocket to make it look though it was only placed casually.
White Initial Pocket Square - Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Fort Belvedere

White Initial Pocket Square – Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Ascot in Buff, Red, Blue, Orange Macclesfield Neats Micropattern - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Ascot in Buff, Red, Blue, Orange Macclesfield Neats Micropattern – Fort Belvedere

This, of course, is very similar to the ways in which modern gentlemen do things like spending a considerable amount of time getting their pocket square in their breast pocket to make it look as though it was only placed there casually. Thus, Brummell was actually a forerunner of what is today known as sprezzatura, in other words, spending a great deal of effort to make it look as though no effort was put in at all.

Brummell As A Style Critic

Returning to the notion of Brummell’s tweets, his musings and maxims on menswear were actually collected by his followers and were sometimes known as “Brummellisms.” One, in particular, is actually still repeated as advice even in the present day:

“If John Bull turns around to look at you, you are not well dressed, but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable.”

One Brummelism, in particular, has been taken as a warning against dressing too ostentatiously in a way that is only meant to be noticed by others.
One Brummelism, in particular, has been taken as a warning against dressing too ostentatiously in a way that is only meant to be noticed by others.

This has been taken as a warning against dressing too ostentatiously in a way that is only meant to be noticed by others. Although, Brummell’s own fame ironically depended on the fact that his mode of dress would be noticed – along with his wit, of course. 

Unfortunately, just like any number of modern menswear gatekeepers or internet trolls, Brummell was able to maintain his prominent position, at least somewhat, by insulting others. He did this from his post at the ground floor Bow Window of White’s Club in London, which would later become known as the “Beau Window.”

From here, Brummell would cruelly pass judgment on the attire of men walking by. Essentially, a more traditional but no more refined version of scrolling through Instagram and leaving mean comments.

The post at the ground of the floor Bow Window of White's Club in London later became known as the "Beau Window"
The post at the ground of the floor Bow Window of White’s Club in London later became known as the “Beau Window”. [Image Credit: Pinterest – @The Bow Windows at White’s]

It was even said that, in the summer of 1813, Brummell was finally “canceled” after he made a joke about the weight of the former Prince of Wales, then the Prince Regent, after he failed to acknowledge Brummell at a party. It’s probably more true, though, that the estrangement between the two men can be traced to political differences over time.

Brummell’s Downfall

Meanwhile, Brummell’s metaphorical decline in fortunes can be traced to his literal decline in fortune. His extravagant spending and reckless gambling habits caused him to accrue, allegedly, over 600,000 pounds of debt. To put that number in perspective, a middle-class family of the time could comfortably live on 300 pounds a year.

Beau escaped his debtors by fleeing to France.
Beau escaped his debtors by fleeing to France. [Image Credit: Tripsavvy]

In 1816, Brummell escaped his debtors by fleeing to France, where he quickly accrued even more debt, despite his English friends’ attempts to help him. Brummell spent a few months in a French prison in 1835 and, by this time, the syphilis that he had contracted earlier in life had really begun to take a toll on his mental health.

Finally, in 1840, Beau Brummel, one of the greatest influencers and tastemakers of his day, died penniless, insane, and forgotten in a French sanitarium. And you thought social media influencers today had drastic falls from grace?

Conclusion

Of course, Brummell wasn’t completely forgotten and, on that note, we hope that you’ve enjoyed this introduction we’ve presented today, and learned a few things about his importance in the development of modern menswear.

While we don’t agree with his views on gentlemanly privilege or snobbery, we do agree that his perspectives on understated elegance, the importance of fit, and attention to detail remained just as relevant today as they were in his time.

We agree on Beau's perspective on understated elegance, importance of fit, and attention to detail to remain as relevant today as they were in his time.
We agree on Beau’s perspective on understated elegance, the importance of fit, and attention to detail to remain as relevant today as they were in his time.

So, did we do a good job highlighting how Beau Brummell’s life and career mirrored that of a modern influencer? And if so, would you like, comment, and subscribe to him? Let us know in the comments section below.

Outfit Rundown

Today I’m wearing an outfit that is inspired by some of the most popular illustrations of Beau Brummell and what he commonly wore. Of course, it’s centered around the colors of blue, brown, and white and, accordingly, my double-breasted blazer is in navy blue and features gold buttons.

Preston is wearing an outfit inspired by some of the most popular illustrations of Beau Brummel.
Preston is wearing an outfit inspired by some of the most popular illustrations of Beau Brummel.
Yellow Exotic Caribbean Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Yellow Exotic Caribbean Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Ascot in Buff, Red, Blue, Orange Macclesfield Neats Micropattern - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Ascot in Buff, Red, Blue, Orange Macclesfield Neats Micropattern – Fort Belvedere

White Initial Pocket Square - Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Fort Belvedere

White Initial Pocket Square – Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks - Vermeil Sterling Silver Yellow Gold Plated - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks – Vermeil Sterling Silver Yellow Gold Plated – Fort Belvedere

Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

My shirt is plain white, and, into its French cuffs, I’ve inserted our yellow gold plated sterling silver monkey fist knot cufflinks to harmonize directly with the blazer buttons. My trousers are in a light khaki or buff color, and my shoes aren’t black, as I thought that would be a bit extreme, but, instead, a very dark brown. They’re Adelaide-styled, cap-toed Oxfords with broguing from the Swedish brand Skolyx.

All of my remaining accessories are also from Fort Belvedere, and I’ll start here with my ascot in buff, which features a Macclesfield Neats pattern in blue, orange, and red. This, of course, is a bit different from the style of ascot that Beau Brummell, himself, wore. But, I figured it was appropriate to include here. Meanwhile, my two-tone, shadow-striped socks are in navy blue and yellow. My pocket square is in plain white linen and features a “P” monogram, and my boutonniere is our yellow exotic Caribbean.

My only hope is that Brummell would be complimentary of my outfit if I were to pass by the Beau Window today.

Because of the styles championed by Brummell and his contemporaries, I’ve decided not to put any product in my hair today and go for a more natural style.

Of course, you can find all of the Fort Belvedere accessories I’m wearing in today’s outfit, including my socks, cufflinks, pocket square, boutonniere, and neckwear, as well as a wide variety of other men’s accessories by visiting the Fort Belvedere shop.

*Note: This post, authored by E.J. Daniels, was adapted from an earlier writing on our website by Dr. Christopher Lee. We encourage our readers to peruse our archive for Dr. Lee’s other contributions!

Reader Comments

  1. Very good, even handed article on Brummell, which I enjoyed. For all his faults he was ahead of his time, and, as you said, still has an influence today. As a re-enactor/living historian I have done some research on historical clothing of various periods. One of the things I enjoy about Gentleman’s Gazette is that you do cover that as well, and show its influence today. Keep them coming!

  2. Hmm, it’s difficult for me to comprehend any admiration for this man – essentially a parasite on society.

    1. I agree.

      Yet menswear people go on about him and the awful Nazi-loving Duke Of Windsor all the time.

  3. Dr. Lee, I may be wrong, (I once thought I was mistaken), but when Beau referred to the prince as “Who’s your fat friend”, he knew exactly who said friend was. I respectfully refer you to Ellen Moers’ The Dandy (1960) on the incident. On another note, the photo of the fashionable Finn makes on wonder why he thought to clean his jacket with the washing machine on a high heat setting.He might enjoy something in his size even more. So now in only one response I have touched on Moer and more, which is probably enough.

    1. I rechecked Ian Kelly’s 2006 biography of Brummell on this and will make the revision. Apparently, Brummell was slighted when the Prince ignored him at a reception line and retorted with the “fat friend” line.

  4. Eton College is not in Windsor as alleged beneath the photograph. Eton College is in Eton. Eton and Windsor are two towns separated by the River Thames, connected by a pedestrian bridge.

    1. I’ll edit that text Lady P. It does have a Windsor SL4 6DW postal code despite being adjoining.

  5. His downfall was primarily due to his gluttony: he became too fat and lost his figure…

  6. The story reminds me of the intellectual Friedrich Nietzsche, who was equally arrogant and full of himself. He once said “Whoever is modest, is a just a cleaning rag!”. When a work colleague of mine proudly (and equally arrogantly) referred to this, I had to remind him that Nietzsche died from syphilis. This caused much amusement at the time but hopefully educated my colleague that being snotty and stuck up is not something to be admired, however clever or beautiful you think you are. If all does not end well, then all is truly….not well. So I reserve that a Gentleman does not ridicule all and sundry and would somehow, with great skill avoid syphilis!

  7. Fascinating article! I have read a couple of books about him written in the 1900th century and this is a good, more modern, summary of his legacy. You can be of many opinions regarding his lifestyle, but at least he was serious about his fashion.

  8. Sorry to say, sven looks as tho he slept in the buff (?) jacket and over large brown pants. Not a good look. Otherwise a very good article.

  9. Good article, very interesting.

    I think Beau Brummell was a brilliant man. He wanted to be an elite and, in the area he could not measure up the most he levelled the playing field and created a clothing market that he could both compete in and be deferred to as an influencer and critic. I do believe it was likely a means to an end. He would always have been the shabby commoner no matter how much he spent on clothes if he played on their field. He never would have respect if he played a peacock. He would have bankrupted himself and did as it was trying to compete in a style the wealthy already had cornered and still been shamed as a poseur. Instead, he traded on his novelty and fickle whims of the elite to stake his own claim. That kind of claim is hard to maintain, and it is no surprise that his own effected manner led to his demise. To hold their fancy and be the center of attention is a dangerous game in a world that has lots of free time and a tendency to hold grudges.

    1. Very glad to hear that you enjoyed it! Thank you for your thoughts, too, Derek

  10. Great article. Another great one! Thank you.
    Among the quotes from Brummel I’ve always liked what he said when he was asked his opinion on the new coat of his friend, the Duke of Bedford… Feeling the lapel with his fingers, he said…”Bedford, do you call this thing a coat?”. Priceless…

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