After we presented the Ralph Lauren Lauren Spring Summer Collection 2012, today I want to discuss the Hackett collection. Although the company is now owned by a Spanish firm, they have continued with the style of its founder Jeremy Hackett, providing slightly eccentric yet quite classic, British garments and accessories.
Classics With a Twist
Let’s start with a few Hackett combinations that are clearly inspired by classic outfits.
First, we have a white / ecru, single breasted 2 button cotton suit with a somewhat narrow lapels. The monotony of white suit, white shirt, white shoes and Panama hat is broken up with a boldly colored cardigan in red with navy and white accents and the matching pocket square. Overall, I like the simplicity in combination with strong colors in this outfit. Compared to the white 3 piece suit of Ralph Lauren, the cardigan makes the look more casual and relaxed.
The next outfit reminds me a little bit of Boardwalk Empire. The stiff boater hat is made of straw and comes right from the 1920’s. The navy – bordeaux striped blazer with white mother of pearl buttons has narrow lapels and very round quarters. Although the cut is not really vintage, it still gives you that old world feel. Paired with a cable knit cotton cricket jumper, white cotton trousers and navy / ecru shoes from Crockett & Jones, you get a very classic spring outfit that will definitely make you the center of attention wherever you go.
Just like the two other outfits, the third classic look is reduced to blue, white and red, although the cut of the coat is anything but classic. While the single breasted quarters are cutaway in an extreme manner, double breasted coats are usually cut with pointed corners. This picture is the perfect explanation for it. Rounded quarters on a 6×2 double breasted jacket do not harmonize with the peaked lapels, especially not if they are as thin as the ones here. The white mother of pearl buttons are a great addition to a blazer because they look classic but not outdated, unlike many nautical brass or gold buttons.
The other trend in Hackett’s summer collection is slim fit, white or ecru cotton trousers. These are certainly lighter and more comfortable to wear in warmer climate than the cream flannel trousers, however they also do not drape as well and will wrinkle more quickly.
Strong Summer Colors
This season, Hackett’s color palette is certainly not limited to the classic navy, red and white staples. Instead, they offer garments in mostly linen, cotton or blends that really stand out.
For example, this sky blue cotton blazer with patch pockets, green cashmere sweater, coral cotton chinos and green deck shoes. It is accentuated with a large floral print scarf that was only available in the women’s department a couple of seasons ago but it seems like more and more men are willing to wear scarves as an accessory rather than a necessity.
One element I personally dislike in Hackett’s current collection is the cut of the coats. Although the Zeitgeist seems to dictate 6 or 7 cm wide lapels, the quarters are cut away in an extreme fashion, exposing the belt and shirt / sweater. This is accentuated by the low rise trouser that sit slightly above the hip and not on the waist.
What do you think of this look – do you like it?
This red linen duffel coat is not really functional in its original sense but it certainly stands out from the crowd in terms of material and cut. Have you has ever seen a linen duffel coat before?
Paired with blue gingham shorts and a sweater, it is certainly more of a fashion runway outfit than a real world suggestion, though it provides some inspiration. Note, the linen pocket square is tied to a a scarf. Just like the big floral scarf, this is something that was traditionally worn predominantly by women. Style icons like Fred Astaire have always appreciated the unique look of such scarves, and the key to wearing them is confidence!
The next outfit is certainly only something for very eccentric men. I think the idea of a red summer coat as a center piece with complimenting colors in the rest of the outfit can look quite stunning, especially when worn with white mother of pearl buttons and matching white cotton trousers.
Although denim jeans blazers and suits were introduced a number of years ago, I have never really seen them around. It definitely creates a more rugged look and is only appropriate for casual occasions. However, I am quite sure it is very durable and will age gracefully. Paired with red shoes and shirt as well as green cotton chinos with cuffs, you have a perfectly unique summer look.
Just like the red duffel coat above, this yellow mac is probably more of a fashion item than day to day companion. Personally, I think the combination of yellow, pink and orange is a little too much, but each to his own!
As mentioned above, Hackett’s suit jacket are not my cup of tea this season, since I just dislike the look of the narrow lapels, cutaway quarters and visible shirt / belt buckle.
I would certainly not wear a suit from their current season, although I like this windowpane suiting fabric in cream-brown with a light blue overplaid. The antique brown shoes and briefcase also go very well with it. For spring and summer I really enjoy these kind of suit and coat colors and patterns.
Do you own a suit or sportscoat in a similar fabric? I would be interested in seeing some pictures!
Hackett Spring / Summer Collection 2012 Video
Overall, the Hackett Spring /Summer collection 2012 was well put together, despite my lack of appreciation for their coat patterns for single and double breasted silhouettes.
In addition to the studio pictures, Hackett also created a video with filming locations ranging from Barbados to Mayfair. You should definitely watch it, because the different mediums and light will give you better context especially in regards to fit.
For more pictures, please see the gallery below and please don’t forget to share if you liked it.
Picture Credit: Hackett