How Pants Should Fit

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Find Your Perfect Trouser Fit!

Dress pants and trousers are often neglected when it comes to fit. While the jacket receives most of the attention, a well-fitting pair of pants is a piece of art that will massively impact both the look of your lower half and the entire ensemble.

While some legs are easier to fit properly than others, certain aspects of a nicely fitting pair of pants can be achieved by anyone. In today’s guide, we discuss how pants should fit, what mistakes you should avoid, and what you must pay attention to, in order to end up with perfectly fitting pants, whether they be khakis, chinos, wool, or linen trousers.

This Is What Indicates Well-Fitting Pants

In general, you want your trousers to fit well, but what exactly does that mean?

  1. They shouldn’t be too loose and baggy, nor skin tight.
  2. They must have the proper inseam length, which means neither too short nor too long. A slight break is great but not required. An oversized break means your pants are too long.
  3. They must have the right circumference around your waist, seat, thigh, knee, and ankle.
  4. You want clean lines and as few wrinkles as possible
  5. Pleats should not gap.
  6. Be mindful that the most difficult part of the fit of pants is the back view when you do not wear a jacket.
  7. In our experience, pants that sit on the natural waist have a more flattering fit than pants that are cut low.
  8. No matter how well a pair of pants fit, over the course of the day, it will move. A belt and side adjusters will help to keep it in place, but only a pair of suspenders can guarantee a great fit all day long.
  9. Some people like wider-cut trousers, others like a trimmer cut but both can fit well. Of course, a pair of very trim pants will have to be slightly shorter, as a break would just look awkward. Moreover, it is harder to achieve a perfect fit with slim trousers.
  10. Lightweight fabric trousers will wrinkle much more quickly and look like they do not fit as well as an identical pair of pants cut from heavier wool or tweed fabric that drapes and hangs well.

At the end of the day, you want to look good, and this is most easily achieved with clean, elegant lines and as few wrinkles as possible.

Fashion illustration of Spring Suits Every Formality
With the information in this guide, your trousers can be as well-fitted as the trousers of men from the Golden Age of Menswear!

The Best Trouser Fit Style Should Harmonize with Your Style

Understanding the Difference Between Size and Fit

In addition to the question of whether or not trousers physically fit on your body, meaning that they are correctly sized, you should also consider fit, by which we mean the particular cling and drape that the trousers have on your body.

A pair of trousers can fit you, in that they are correctly sized, but with different options for how they fit: loose and drapey or tight and trim, the choice is yours!

Find the Fit That Fits You

Skinny trousers may be en vogue right now, but they only really look exceptional on men with narrow waists, thin legs, and a medium height.

Contrarily, the popular assumption that gentlemen should avoid high-waisted trousers, pleats, and other “old-fashioned” styles is incorrect, because these features actually flatter most gentlemen because they look dashing on a much wider number of body types.

Keep in mind that whether you prefer a looser, average, or tighter fit, provided that the fit is not extreme, you can still fit into the conventions of Classic Style.

Following these guidelines to perfectly fit all of your clothes!

FAQ How Pants Should Fit

How do I know if my pants fit correctly or not?

If your pants obviously unflattering when you wear them, they likely do not fit well. However, there can also be more subtle fit issues that are not immediately apparent. All of these issues, and how to identify them, are outlined in full in this guide.

What is the correct fit for men’s trousers?

Ultimately, provided that trousers are properly sized, the fit is entirely up to you and what you like and think looks good. In Classic Style, the most popular fit should hang securely but loosely at the hips, with a prominent drape in the legs that follow the body closely but not tightly. When moving or seated, there should be no prominent creasing.

What do the size numbers on men’s trousers indicate?

The first number for trouser size indicates the circumference of the waist. If your trousers do not fit correctly in the waist, you need a smaller or larger size. If there is a second number, it indicates how long the trousers are, measured alongside the inside of the leg, also called an in-seam. Unfinished trousers, which have a considerable amount of extra fabric in the legs that is intended to be hemmed up after purchase, will not have this second number.

Can you determine proper fit without trying on pants?

If you know all of your body measurements, and have access to the exact dimensions of the trousers in question, you can usually make an educated guess as to how well they fit by comparing those dimensions to a pair of pants you have already worn. However, in most cases, it is easiest and most accurate to try on pants to assess proper fit.

Does comfort indicate if pants fit well?

No, it does not. A pair of pants can feel very comfortable, usually because they are properly sized, without necessarily draping and flattering your body according to the best possible fit. That being said, well-fitted pants should always be comfortable.

Are well-fitted pants supposed to feel tight?

No, they are not. Unless you prefer for your trousers to be tighter, you should not notice any obvious tightness in a well-fitted pair of pants. Furthermore, excessive tightness is not only a sign of poor fit, it is often also a sign of incorrect sizing.

Where should pants sit on the waist?

Dress trousers should sit at least slightly above your waist, and higher if they are high-waisted. Casual trousers can sit lower if you like that style. The trousers should be comfortable, but still tight enough to keep a tucked-in shirt in place.

How much extra room should pants have at the waist?

Your waistband should feel firm and secure, but just loose enough for you to fit three fingers between your waistband and body without digging into your skin.

How long should pant legs be?

According to Classic Style conventions, your trouser legs should not be so high as to dramatically expose your socks nor so long as to puddle on top of your shoes. Break, discussed in this guide, illustrates how the trouser legs should drape your shoes.

What is the break on a pair of pants?

Break refers to how the bottoms of your pants drape, or break, against the tops of your shoes. The common break types are No Break, Quarter Break, Half Break, and Full Break. While certain breaks are better suited to individual pants types and formalities, to a certain extent, break is a matter of personal preference. For all but most formal garments, the choice is largely yours.

Should pants be low, medium, or high-waisted?

Where on your body your pants sit is entirely a matter of personal preference. In our experience, however, we have found that high-waisted trousers will be the most comfortable and appear the most elegant on the widest array of men’s body types.

Pants Components and Fit Points

Pants Parts and How They Impact Overall Fit

Each component of a pair of pants will directly affect the fit. These five areas of fit will largely dictate the overall effect of how your trousers fit on your body.

Single extended waistband Gurkha trousers with metal buckle for adjustments.

Waistband

The strip of fabric sits around your midsection.

The alternative to pleated pants: flat-fronted trousers

Front & Seat

The area around your butt, between the waistband and upper thighs.

Classic high-rise pants allow the cummerbund to sit naturally on your waist.

Rise

The measurement between the legs from the front of the waistband to the back; Low rise sits on the hip, mid-rise between the navel and hip, and high rise sit at the natural waist, or the area close to the belly button or directly on it.

You can never go wrong in wearing khakis.

Cut

The style of the trouser with regards to how close-fitting it is to the body.

Raphael's inseam measurement

Inseam

The finished length of the legs of the pants, measured from the inside seam.

Learn about all of the features of pants!

Raphael wears a pair of tan Oxford shoes with a summer outfit.

What Can and Cannot Be Changed

Fit Points

Unfortunately, of the five major fit points on a pair of pants, only the last one, length, can be easily adjusted by an alterations tailor. Most modern pants are cut and sewn with little excess fabric, meaning that very few measurements can be altered on pants, with the exception of the hem. Only vintage or bespoke pants may have enough excess fabric to take out the seat and legs. You can never change the rise. As a result, it’s important to find pants that fit you as well as possible from the get-go. Bear in mind. If you buy something that was not tailored for you, it will always require alterations.

Get the right pants the first time!

How To Tell If Your Pants Fit Correctly

Determine Fit By Examining Pants In This Way

Illustration of Suits overcoats hats walking stick
Determine proper fit by holistically viewing how the pants appear on your body.

When you try on pants, the protocol for assessing rather fit can be rather quick, even if the list seems long. Remember to wear the relevant accessories with them, such as a shirt, belt, braces, socks, and shoes, so that you can determine not only if they fit well but also if they suit the desired ensemble and the other items you’ll wear with them. Make sure to sit, stand, lean over, put on your shoes, and any other motions that you go through regularly.

A pair of woven leather dress shoes.

Make sure to wear the right

Shoes

If you are trying on dress pants, bring dress shoes to your fitting. Athetlic shoes and casual shoes, like loafers or moccasins, have a more shallow cut than dress shoes. Therefore, when attempting to find the proper length for your trousers, non-dress shoes will not provide accurate results as to how long the legs should be, resulting in overly long legs that will look odd when worn with proper dress shoes.

Assessing Fit at Every Major Fit Point

The trousers have outward-facing pleats and don't come with a waistband.
The Waistband
WaistbandThe waistband should sit comfortably around your waist, but snug enough to keep your shirt tucked in
Too TightThe waistband should sit comfortably around your waist, but snug enough to keep your shirt tucked in
Too BigYou can pinch more than an inch of material around the waistband, and it slides down after a few steps. If that’s the case, have the alteration’s tailor make the waistband slimmer. Also, you need a belt to hold them up, or you can leave a bit of room and opt for suspenders. Some men like suspenders because the pants effectively rest on the shoulders, and even if you walk all day or if you lose some weight, the pants will still fit very well. You can even have a slightly loose waistband and gain a little weight, without problems.
Corduroy pants shown on center screen
The Front & Seat
Front & SeatThe area around your butt should allow you to sit comfortably
Too TightX-wrinkles appear around the fly, your pockets gap, or both. When you sit, you feel constricted in the thigh.
Too BigExcess fabric begins to wrinkle or hang in folds around your seat and upper tights
Navy high-waisted flannel is a good choice to wear on formal occasions.
The Rise [Image Credit: Grand Le Mar]
The RiseWhether it’s low, mid, or high, the rise should suit your comfort standards and stay in place when you move
Too TightThe fit is uncomfortable and your pleats gap
Too BigThe pants will tent excessively or noticeably fold over themselves
A red chino pants can also be paired with a gray sweater.
The Cut
The CutThe cut should flatter your waist, thighs, and calves, all the way down to the ankle; assess how the fabric drapes due to the cut. If your calves show through, you need a wider cut.
Too TightThe fabric clings awkwardly to the knee, seat, or calves, and forms wrinkles or creases
Too BigThe material bags or folds around the seat or upper thighs; the width of the pant leg is so wide that it makes you appear out of proportion, and it covers a large portion of your shoes.
Medium break in the front works because of the hem circumference, the pants can never reach the shoe heel in the back
The Inseam
InseamPants length is a matter of preference within boundaries. Based upon what was popular for most of their lifetimes and cultural pressures, most older men wear their pants too long, and most young men too short. The classic look ranges from no break in front and back to a slight break in the front.
Too ShortThe entire ankle is exposed
Too LongA break is visible at the back of the shoe.
Trousers with no breaks at the bottom encourage greater ventilation around your ankles.

Give yourself a

Break

Break refers to how the bottoms of your pants drape, or break, against the tops of your shoes. The common break types are No Break, Quarter Break, Half Break, and Full Break.

Common Trouser Fit Issues

Find Fit Issues According to Where and How Your Trousers Wrinkle

X- creases at the fork

X-Creases at the Fork

If you see these kinds of wrinkles, your pants are too tight in the seat. Have the seat seam opened up if you have enough fabric reserve.

Too much material in the seat

Excess Material in the Seat

Interestingly, when you stand, you won’t notice any issues, however, when you sit, you end up with bunching rolls of fabric in the fly area and lap. Even a perfectly fitting pair of trousers will show some wrinkles when you sit, which can’t be avoided. If you wear pleated pants, you will see more wrinkles than on flat-front pants. If you think you have too much material in this area, consult with an alterations tailor. The cause for this issue can be manifold.

Too much fullness under the seat

Excessive Fullness under the Seat

If you can see these wrinkles in pants, chances are the wearer has a very upright posture, and the pants were not adjusted properly for him. You may also see that the trousers may cling to the wearer’s legs in the back. It’s difficult to fix on existing RTW trousers because the issue is the angle of the seat. However, if you commission a custom garment, be it MTM or bespoke, you should speak up to the tailors if you see this defect.

Creases generally start in the crotch area and continue vertically left and right of the fly. If you encounter these folds, the trousers are too big for the wearer. Have it adjusted in the seat, crotch, and side seams.

Roping Creases Along The Seat

Roping Creases along the Seat

It may not look like it at first, but the reason for the rope creases is tightness in the seat seam. It has to be let out and reshaped with a heavy iron. Also, it could be that your suspenders, also called braces, are pulling too much. Make sure to loosen them a little first to see if that fixes the issue.

Horseshoe Folds

Horseshoe Folds

Horseshoe folds occur, if the underside of the trousers is cut too close to the wearer’s thigh. You may also see diagonal creases on the inside of your thighs, and your pants will probably stick to the calves. You will see this defect in men with an erect posture and strong calves. It’s not an easy fix, but essentially, you need more length in the front of the trouser, so the back looks normal.

Diagonal and Vertical creases in the front

Diagonal and Vertical Creases at the Front

Creases geneally start in the croth area and continue vertically left and right of the fly. If you encounter these folds, the trousers are too big for the wearer. Have it adjusted in the seat, crotch and side seams.

Folds that draf from fork to knee

Folds Dragging from Fork to Knee

If you can see wrinkles like this when you are seated, chances are your pants will restrict the wearer in the area of the knee when walking. The issue is once again the proper seat angle, and you will definitely have to consult a good alterations tailor.

Learn what an alterations tailor can and can’t fix

Understanding Fit and Pant Types

Trouser Type Can Influence Proper Fit

When deciding on the proper fit for your pants, be sure to keep in mind the types of pants that they are. Appropriate trouser types vary based on occasion and formality, and this appropriateness will directly impact the fits that will appear most pleasing and suitable.

Dress Pants

Plain or CuffedBreakFlat-Front or PleatedRiseFabric Weight
While cuffs, also called turn-ups, are often the standard with dress pants these days, going cuffless is always a bit more formal. If you decide to opt for turn-ups aka cuffs, the amount is up to personal preference. The classic spectrum is between 1.5″ – 2.5″  (3.75 – 6.25cm). Formal evening trousers should always be cuffless. For day dress trousers, break is a matter of personal choice. One of our favorite options is the slanted hem, in which the back of the leg fabric is longer than the front. As a result, the back ends just above the heel of your shoe, and the front has not or just a light break.If you are a slim chap, you can get away with flat-front pants, but if you are a seasoned gentleman or if you have fuller thighs, go pleated; it will be more comfortable and look more flattering. Raphael prefers two inward pleats, sometimes with a continuous waistband.The rise of trousers should sit above the hip bone or higher, in a mid-to high-rise, so they pair well with a suit jacket. Low-rise skinny pants of recent trends, when too extreme, throw off the proportions of a suit, elongating the body and shortening the legs.Always bear in mind that thinner fabrics look less flattering than heavier ones on pants. This is because the heavier weight of the fabric settles and drapes in a pleasing way, while thinner fabrics crease very easily.

Traditional khaki colored chinos worn with light tan chukka boots

What to do about

Cuffed Breaks

If your pants are cuffed, avoid a sizable break because otherwise, it looks ill-fitting. Unfortunately, it is not possible to have true turn-up cuffs with slanted hems. Hence, if you want slanted cuffs, your tailor will have to create faux cuffs, which require additional fabric. Hence it is usually something you can only get from a bespoke tailor. If you get bespoke trousers, the tailor can. If they’re not, you ideally want a small break where the pant sits perfectly at the top of the dress shoe.

Chinos and Corduroys

Plain or CuffedBreakFlat-Front or PleatedRiseCut
Because of their more casual nature, chinos can be cuffed or uncuffed as desired, and you will have somewhat greater latitude when deciding cuff height than on dress trousers. Corduroy pants were, traditionally, left uncuffed, but ultimatley the choice is yours. Once again, break is a matter of personal choice. As for what we believe looks most appealing, if you’re wearing a traditional or conservative cut, it’s a good plan to go for a slight break. However, if you do enjoy the look of skinny chinos, you can skip the break entirely.If you are a slim chap, you can get away with flat-front pants, but if you are a seasoned gentleman or if you have fuller thighs, go pleated; it will be more comfortable and look more flattering. Raphael prefers two inward pleats, sometimes with a continuous waistband.Chinos and cords generally sit at around the same spot as dress trousers, directly above your hip bones. Recent trends have seen chinos sold in a low-rise version that’s become popular, but if you do wear them to work, we suggest a more classic cut. It will look far better with a shirt tucked in than the low-cut styles.Although both cords and chinos can be worn closer to the body than dress pants, the cotton material will clearly show when the trouser is too snug.

Denim Jeans

BreakRiseCut
When it comes to jeans, no break to a full break is acceptable, but most men wear them too long, sometimes even stepping on them when walking. Simply have them hemmed to the proper length at the alterations tailor. Also, the slimmer the jeans are, the less break you should have.Since jeans are the most popular pants on the planet, there is quite a range of styles that can be chosen. They should be worn in a mid- to low-rise, though some men with a love for vintage clothes will swear by high-rise denim. For larger men, you may find it’s more comfortable to wear jeans at the same height as your dress trousers.When it comes to fit, jeans – unlike some other pants – should stay relatively consistent down each leg of the trousers. They should ideally taper as they go down the leg, so you don’t end up with jeans that hug the hips but are baggy in the calves.

Find the best jeans for your body type!

Quick Tips for Exceptional-Fitting Pants

Quick Tips for Exceptional-Fitting Pants

1
Skip the athletic wear on a date unless you’re actually working out or doing some sports!

Don't buy "goal pants"

Yes, you may have a goal to lose a few pounds, but there is no reason to tie up money in your closet that you can’t – and might not be able to – wear. Don’t buy these even if they are on sale, because chances are they will never fit.

2
A three-piece suit in charcoal gray with a thin red stripe as a subtle accent

Don't be afraid of pleats

They may not be trendy at the moment, but pleats have their uses. Not only are they well suited to more formal attire such as morning wear and double-breasted suits, this feature is perfect for any man with muscular thighs or a few pounds on the hips. If you wear your jackets to the proper length, by which we mean not the trendy short jackets that only cover half your seat, then pleats are a good option.

3
Good length for cuffed trousers

Don't be afraid of turn-up cuffs

A pair of solid-colored, flat-fronted pants with no cuffs can look rather plain, especially if paired with a simple single-breasted jacket or other solid materials. Cuffs add interest to otherwise simple ensembles and add a point of interest, especially with dark pants.

4
Raphael holding two measuring tapes showing their difference in length – one yellow measuring tape from Singer and one off-white cheap measuring tape

Know your measurements

We’ve recommended this many times before, but knowing your real measurements is always helpful with regard to obtaining a great fit. It’s also easy to think you’re one size when you are, in fact, another. If you’re not a fan of trying on ten pairs of pants in the store, keep your measurements handy and order online. That way, you can try on the pants in the comfort of your home or, better yet, at your alterations tailor with a proper mirror so you can see how the pants fit from all sites.

5
A screenshot from the Hermes website showing the various belt sizes available

Don't take pants sizes at face value

Think you’re a 34″ waist? The measuring tape may read 34″, but pants labeled with 34″ waist measurements are often not a true 34″. Menswear, like women’s wear, has become susceptible to vanity sizing, so a 34″ may measure a 35″ or even 36″ or just 33.5″. Sometimes you can even encounter size fluctuations from the same brand!

6
A properly-fitted dress shoe can be just as comfortable as any Frankenshoe and is more versatile than one thinks.

Length is crucial

We can’t emphasize enough that length is key. A properly hemmed pair of pants will balance the proportion of your entire look, and they can draw the eye to the other details of your ensemble, such as socks or shoes.

7
Jiffy steamer: The overall end results were good in that most, if not all wrinkles were removed effectively.

Why pants are still wrinkled despite proper fit

The fabric is the likely culprit. Fabric, in general, is growing increasingly lighter with time as preferences for lightweight, non-restrictive clothing increase. The downside of lighter fabrics is the loss of “drape,” or the ability of the fabric to hang neatly over the body. Lightweight fabrics cling to socks and underwear and don’t have enough weight to straighten themselves out again as a heavier fabric would. If a pair of pants is still unattractively clingy or wrinkly even though you know they fit well, the fabric is likely the source of the issue.

The Perfect Companion to Properly Fitted Pants

Fine Dress Socks from Fort Belvedere

The interplay of your shoes, socks, and trousers is the primary aesthetic component of the lower half of your outfit, and it will massively impact the overall appeal and refinement of your entire look. Therefore, put your best foot forward with exceptional socks from Fort Belvedere, and download our free guide to learn how to effortlessly pair socks, shoes, and trousers for versatile, timeless, and memorable ensembles.

Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d Ecosse Cotton Fort Belvedere

Add the perfect pop to jeans

Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Fil d'Ecosse Cotton Socks

Pink and Grey Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Dress up gray slacks with dandy style

Pink and Grey Shadow Stripe Fil d'Ecosse Cotton Socks

Blue Socks with Red and White Clocks in Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Introduce color without compromising formality

Blue Socks with Red and White Clocks in Cotton

Conclusion

Photo of three men in Classic ensembles
No matter how you like to wear your trousers, they are always worn best with friends!

While pants are too often overlooked by most men, we understand that a properly fitting pair of pants is the epitome of elegance. With the tips that you have learned in this guide, you are now prepared to master the art of finding perfectly fitted trousers, ensuring that each and every one of your ensembles will look incredible from the ground up!

What are your pants fit challenges? What kind of break do you prefer on your trousers? Let us know in the comments!

Reader Comments

  1. For me, the problem is calves. I have a perpetual problem with calf sizes in dress pants. I played sports most of my life, and am athletic in build. At times, slim or ‘tailored’ off-the-shelf pants will look great around my waist, but tighten on my calves (or catch on my ankle socks). I will not go near skinny. Regular cuts may be baggy, thus resorting to tailoring, or trying to find a subtle taper. I’m at the point where I’m thinking anything but made-to-measure in the dress pant arena is a waste of money for me, unfortunately.

    1. As much as I hate to admit, I’m going toward Van Heusen’s “stretch fit” pants. Especially given the alarming lack of competent tailors. Tailoring like a great many things, has become a dying art. After playing ice hockey for many years, I hear you, my lower legs are totally out proportion! And quads force you trousers up every time you sit down…

      Other than bespoke..?

    2. I find a lot of off the shelf trousers (as we call them where I live) are uncomfortable to wear as they grip both the quads and calves. I cannot imagine sitting at a desk in such things for hours at an end.

  2. Are the pants with the inward pleats worn with the burgundy vest bespoke? I am thinking of getting dressier pants just made for me from now on as modern trends ruined all proper aesthetics. As a 20 year old with bigger thighs and buttocks than most men (although I’m not fat), I have so much trouble finding pants that drape like they should around my waist and thighs. One question I also have is with pockets. How much stuff do you put in your dress pants’ pockets? Men these days put their large cellphones and clunky wallets together in one pocket even which makes the waist area look out of proportions. Nowadays we don’t wear jackets all the time in which we could store our phones and wallets more properly.

    1. Don’t put anything in dress pant pockets. Ever. Use a stylish e.g. Mulberry over the shoulder messenger type man’s pocket bag.

  3. Glad to see that you advise a little break on the length…..the sloppy, too long look never looked right. Glad to see pleats too, I’m glad I saved my pleated slacks from years ago, they always looked so right

  4. I’m so sorry you did not talk about men with larger waistlines. It is wonderful you give us great guidelines for the thinner man, which I admit apply to larger men, but they themselves have special needs. Please address them. Thank you ..

    1. Most of this advice applies to men regardless of their waste size. As a guy with a bigger waste I can say that the only specific thing that I can recommend is to wear suspenders. They can be used with any type of trousers. There are even undergarment suspenders for more casual occasions.

  5. Greetings,
    Although some think it unfashionable, I still prefer pleats, a full break, and standard cuffs. My suits are worn with braces and standard dress shoes. I am sixty years of age, 6’2″, 200 lbs. None of my colleagues dress professionally, despite the fact that their career arcs would benefit if they did. I guess those trouser preferences have evolved over forty years of enduring fashion vicissitudes from leisure suits, aircraft carrier lapels, skinny leather ties, shoulder pads, platform shoes, and “Casual Fridays.”
    Regards,
    Andy Gregg,
    Palm Springs, CA

    1. “aircraft carrier lapels” Lol! Too funny.

      Perhaps you can share Sven’s “100 Things That Improve When You Dress Nice” list! Casual Friday should remain for those that *earned* it. Landing big accounts, winning big cases etc. Not just because it’s Friday. I think that’s where the wheels feel off.

      We understand when you get called into the firm on a short notice/Saturday etc. It happens. But constantly looking like we caught you doing lawn work? FWIW, I still prefer pleats on pretty much everything, save for the tux!

    2. Dear Andy,
      I am with you 100%. Many of us have lost our way when it comes to what I call “top-shelf” dressing. There is very little professional style dressing these days. I am 63 years of age and I always try to put my best foot forward (pun intended).
      Now a days it’s hard to find well dressed men. Thanks for your post – you’re not alone.

  6. How does the saying go? The enemy of perfection is acceptable. This is how I Now approach the alterations of my trousers. Ideally, I would prefer absolutely no break with the cuff just touching the top of my shoe. The problem, as your article properly points out, is that trousers move and sag throughout the day. Invariably, the “perfect” length I had hoped for often looks poor fitting. Therefore, I now have my dress trousers altered with a 1 3/4″ cuff with a slight break. I find the fit is better and the slight added weight of the cuff causes the pants to drape well. I also often alter trousers to be worn with braces. Honestly, I find this is the most comfortable way to wear trousers. For chinos and other less dressy pants, I often go with a slightly narrower cuff of 1 1/2″. This tends to look better with the more slim cut casual trouser.

  7. I think you are missing something about the rise of pants. If you have a long torso/short legs, yo need to wear a higher rise pant to balance your proportions. If you have long legs and a short torso you should go with a lower rise so that you don’t look like a stump on to legs.

  8. In the UK, where I live, it’s become almost impossible to find well-cut trousers (pants for us mean underpants of course, and this can introduce a certain amount of mirth into discussions with US readers/writers). It’s not just the trousers, but a well-known firm here showed an advertisement featuring young men (they always ARE young men, even though the young have less disposable income! ) in jackets which hardly threatened their buttocks, so short were they, waistcoasts that floated at least 2 inches above their belts, and trousers in line with the pubic bone, never mind the hip-bone. Who on earth they thought was going to buy this absurd combination I don’t know, but it certainly wouldn’t be me. I can sometimes buy jackets that will fit – it may be worth mentioning the mass-market Skopes brand, which still offers jackets with room to breathe, but I’ve had trousers made to measure in recent years – because while my real waist, ie below the ribs but in line with the navel, is 40″ (and unfortunately has been for some ten years) if I bought trousers with a 40″ waist that weren’t specifically high-rise (and try getting those off the peg!) I could never do them up; so a “waist” measurement for lower-fitting trousers could be anything, given the approximate fit in which manufacturers indulge, from 42″ – rather tight – to 44″ – generally too loose.

    As for alterations tailors – they’re almost impossible to find outside of the bigger cities, and they seem to be dying out even there. I should be delighted if you would bring your crusade for better, comfortable, elegant clothing, in which this country used to excel, to England: I know that we can access your website of course, and I often do, but if only you had an outlet in this country and exercised greater influence over mens’ tailoring here, some of these trends for skimpily-made clothes designed to fit a drainpipe and in fabrics that wouldn’t survive the ravages of a stiff breeze might be challenged. Well, I can hope!

    1. Hello Robert,
      Try Oliver Brown and Cordings of Piccadilly. Both are in London and online if the big smoke is too far. Failing that might I suggest buying from the US or Australia as they run standard sizing up to 44″. Both countries run a size larger which can be a flattering experience, though I must admit that Oz is a bit of a sartorial dustbowl, so unless you desire board shorts we should be given a wide berth.

      As for tailoring. I now do my own. Needs must Mate, needs must.

    2. Mostly agree with your comments. If you are near Bristol there are at least two very good alterations tailors.
      I now use David Minns at Brown in Town for my tailoring, trousers and shirts have never fitted so well. Not likely to buy these items of the peg ever again.

      You might want to checkout Simon Cromptons blog, PermanentStyle.

      Kind regards

  9. The universal problem tall men with long legs share are pants not having a long enough inseam that supports the addition of cuffs.

  10. Good article and thank you for your opinion on the cuffs. I like them but felt they were out of fashion. Changed my mind on that one. Pleats are great, however if you have put on a few kilos then they just advertise the fact. As for denim, I like the crumple look, except around the bum. I also feel you should never iron jeans, if so, they will lack street credibility, still, nothing is better than putting on freshly laundered jeans that feel a little tight a first, but then become a second skin. Not too tight, but not too loose.
    Thank you Mr Schneider, love your work.

  11. The photo of the continuous trousers (blue) are nice!! Inverted pleats the way I prefer! Cheers!

  12. Lots of excellent advice here. The one thing missing is zipper length advice. For rise, follow the this formula and you can’t go wrong. Waistline one inch above the navel X 18/52. For the zipper, multiply the rise by 12/18. Stamford Clothiers in Leeds, England will make trousers in a traditional cut with the right rise at a fair price.

  13. I particularly like the fit of Dockers D2 cut pants however, they are not available in other than cotton or cotton blend. Are there dress pants, preferably wool or wool blend, with a similar cut to of the Dockers D2?

    1. +1. I am a teacher so am not dressing up to the extent that I might in an office. I mostly wear slacks and a tie, sometimes a light suit. The Dockers are great as they last well with the constant moving that I do. They aren’t as formal as I would like but I haven’t found that the formal lasts given the abuse that my clothes take.

  14. A thought provoking article. For formal business wear I had my suits made with two pairs of trousers. I have them with side adjusters and pleats. I do not like belts on suits. I have one pair with turn-ups/cuff, although I prefer my turn-ups not so big as those shown in the article I like 4cm/1.5 in and I like them on to my shoes. I do not like them “floating” above the shoe. The other pair I will have finished with a “military” or slanted hem of about half an inch and a modest break.
    I leave half-mast trousers to my sons!

  15. I still can’t figure out how your camera-man gets you to sneak left and right while you speak. Or maybe the tripod needs a screw tightened again. Thanks for great stuff ! Really excellent !

  16. Another great article.

    cherrs,
    The other “Simon”

    p.s I agree with the Simon above: the Pitti peacocks look stupid.

  17. One problem that last guy has, the “wrinkled due to light fabric” picture, seems to be that he has his hands in his pockets. Looks to me like that suit would hang a lot better if he’d just take them out.

  18. Great article on this topic – cheers.

    *I need someone’s advice:
    I have a question about what to do with my fresco-wool suit pants. The fit is modern – a slim and tapered leg, with no break. I did not anticipate that if I were to gain weight, even by a few pounds, then the pants would appear to not drape as well. In particular, they get partially scrunchy around the calve, and more so on my right side. You mentioned that this is common with light fabrics. What are my options?

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