Morning Dress: Dress Code

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What exactly is morning wear? If you get an invitation that states this dress code, we’ve got you covered!

Morning dress is a unique garment in the sense that it is cut away and it’s called a morning coat. It is not the tail coat or the penguin which you know from evening wear and that’s only appropriate for white tie.

Proper morning coat at a wedding
Proper morning coat at a wedding [Image Credit: Pinterest]

Wearing a morning coat is still popular for society weddings in Europe or in England. It’s mostly underutilized in the US yet, for horse races and other events, you can still wear it. If the dress code says formal day wear, it means the same thing, you should wear a morning coat ensemble. Just like black tie and white tie, the morning coat dress code is very detail-oriented and I could spend an hour talking about every little detail.

Morning Wear In A Nutshell

Sven Raphael Schneider in morning attire
Sven Raphael Schneider in morning attire

The Morning Coat

You want a morning coat that is cut away in the front. It’s usually in black or in dark gray, kind of a light texture such as herringbone but plain is okay as well. In general, you have peak lapels or notched lapels and it is worn with striped trousers. Usually, they’re in colors of black, charcoal, grey, and maybe a fleck of white. Often, they are referred to as cashmere stripe, they’re the most popular. You could also go with solid pants if you want to or small patterns such as houndstooth. Just make sure there’s enough contrast to the morning coat.

Sven Raphael Schneider in Morning coat ensemble with green velvet double-breasted waistcoat
Morning coat ensemble with green velvet double-breasted waistcoat

With the morning coat, you never wear a belt, but always suspenders, that way, everything stays up. You can either wear single-breasted waistcoats or double-breasted ones, I like double-breasted ones because they go with the look of the open morning coat, they’re a little more special, and that’s exactly the right thing when you wear such a unique garment. Traditional colors of the waistcoat include dove gray or buff which is a form of chamois yellow, however, you can also go with maybe red or blue, it’s really up to you and what style you want to set.

In general, I would suggest never to have more than two different colors in a morning coat ensemble, otherwise, it’s not formal enough.

Morning Wear Accessories

Named after the world-famous horse race ,  because it used to be the obligatory item for a men to wear with morning wear, it is no longer an option according to the Royal Ascot dress code. It used to be worn with a white detachable wing collar with an ascot, a formal Ascot, that you could either tie just like a cravat or in a typical formal ascot style with a tie pin. It’s very difficult to find these formal ascots however, it’s really fun to wear especially if you like the vintage look or the most traditional of all looks.

Morning Coat Wedding Tie
Morning Coat Wedding Tie
A photo of a Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk

Fort Belvedere

Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk

Wedding Tie in Silver and Black Silk Stripe Stripes - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Wedding Tie in Silver and Black Silk Stripe Stripes

Of course, if you go with a tie, a regular turndown collar shirt with French cuffs is ideal. Button cuffs are always too informal so make sure you could wear cufflinks with it. Other than formal Ascot or a regular tie, you can also go with a bow tie. Again, the same kind of patterns in silver and black are good. If you want to be over-the-top loud, you can also go with something more colorful.

You definitely want a white linen pocket square because very classic and dapper as well as a boutonniere either a fresh one or if you can’t get that, you can find a selection of them in our shop.

Morning Dress with Bow Tie
Morning Dress with Bow Tie

It’s not obligatory to wear a hat anymore but if you go with a special dress code, you might as well go all in and get a top hat. A regular Fedora or a Homburg hat would be wrong.

Black Shoes Is Non-Negotiable

Black Cap Toe Oxford from the Deco Line of Gaziano & Girling
Black Cap Toe Oxford from the Deco Line of Gaziano & Girling [Image Credit: Parisian Gentleman]

If you want to wear shoes, I suggest you go with plain black shoes such as black cap toe oxfords, you can also go with balmoral boots, and ideally, you want to have something with a contrasting insert, maybe in suede or fabric, or it can all be in black. If you want to have a very traditional look, you can also go with button boots made out of black leather and then a contrasting colored insert. No matter what Footwear you choose, go with dark socks that work with the color of your pants. You can either go with solid gray or charcoal, ideally, with some clocks on the side, that’s very formal, very nice, very appropriate for morning dress.

Balmoral Boot in black with suede inserts by Scarosso
Balmoral Boot in black with suede inserts by Scarosso

Personally, I don’t own a morning suit and they’re really not necessary. It’s just for people who attend morning wear events regularly and want to be special in a subtle and unique way. If you’ve ever seen a dress code, day wear or formal day wear, it’s the equivalent of evening wear or formal evening wear. So for white tie, the equivalent is the morning coat. For the black-tie, the equivalent is the stroller suit also known as the Stresemann in Europe.

Stresemann Stroller Suit with grey waistcoat and cashmere stripe trousers
Stresemann Stroller Suit with grey waistcoat and cashmere stripe trousers

In order to get the Stresemann look, all I have to do is simply to swap out the regular morning coat for a black jacket. It’s typically single breasted with peak lapels with one or two closing buttons, no flaps but jetted pockets, and it’s a less flashy version because it’s still a regular suit jacket but it’s still quite formal and you can wear it as a groom to your own wedding or as a guest because it’s formal without being over-the-top and stealing the show from the bride and groom.

Conclusion

Now that you know what it takes to pull off a morning wear attire, you will never look out of place on your next formal day event. Be sure to check our other dress code guides in case you are struggling to put together appropriate and timeless outfits for the big events that you are invited to!

Outfit Rundown

Sven wearing a dark charcoal morning coat with peak lapel, green velvet double breasted vest, white dress shirt with Fort Belvedere accessories
Sven wearing a dark charcoal morning coat with peak lapel, green velvet double-breasted vest, and white dress shirt with Fort Belvedere accessories.
A photo of a Pocket Square with Monogram Initial Classic White Irish Linen

Fort Belvedere

Pocket Square with Monogram Initial Classic White Irish Linen

Prince of Wales Check Silk Tie in Black and White

Fort Belvedere

Prince of Wales Check Silk Tie in Black and White

Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

Grey Socks with Light Grey and Black Clocks in Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Grey Socks with Light Grey and Black Clocks in Cotton

Mid Grey Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Mid Grey Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton

I’m wearing a traditional morning coat made in England with peak lapels. It has a very dark charcoal color in a herringbone weave. I combined it with a velvet double-breasted vest in peak lapels, it’s very high closing and it works quite well with the white color of my shirt as well as the white shirt body and the small Glen check tie that is typical for morning wear ensembles as well as business outfits. So if you buy this tie, you can wear it to any kind of evening event or business event and you’ll never be out of place so it’s a good investment. The boutonniere is light blue so it’s slightly different in the white pocket square yet it all looks harmonious.

My trousers are vintage and cashmere striped in black and charcoal and my boots are black balmoral boots in black and suede leather with gray contrasting shoelaces which you also can find in our shop. It’s a very subtle way to add a bit of contrast to an otherwise very black footwear outfit. My socks are gray with clocks over the calf of course. Of course, I also wear a top hat with it just so it looks very dapper and I could also go with unlined suede gloves in chamois yellow maybe gray, or something like red or blue if I wanted to be a little bolder. Of course, it’s one of the stroller suits or the Stresemann I could just swap out the jacket and it would be less unique of an outfit so I would catch less attention nevertheless my dress code would be perfectly appropriate for the day wear.

Reader Comments

  1. Dear Raphael,
    Morning wear is surely the most glorious attire available to men ; it feels fantastic .

    If I am correct you have previously made a rightful big deal of it a few years back .
    I have had mine tailored a while back and get to wear it twice a year at the two Racing Carnivals we have down here my way .
    To you young lads out there do it on your Wedding Day ; not sure? Take a look at
    the fantastic photo off JFK hitching up to Jacquie .

  2. Back in days of old, with a few color changes and a black band around the hat you had a Mourning Suit too. Interesting to note that the first part of funeral is “fun” which is what one should be doing in the morning if it suits you. Great article as usual.

  3. There is morning wear and then there is the abomination often seen at weddings. You can get away with an ascot and an embroidered satin waistcoat at a wedding but not at any event where you might come across a member of the Royal Family and never a bow tie. Never. Balmoral boots are an affectation and as such should not be in any gentleman’s wardrobe. Black top hat, not grey, it must fit,and worn on the front of the head not off the back. Yellow chamois gloves, black socks.Never a topcoat, regardless of the weather, carry a black tightly furled city umbrella if it is raining.

  4. Dear Mr. Schneider,

    Thank you for another exciting and highly informative article. I read
    the article and watched the video with great interest. Could you please
    help me with two questions I have about the top hat?

    1. What are the correct materials for a top hat to be made of? If I am
    not mistaken, wool felt is correct, but the most luxurious top hats are
    made of silk plush or beaver fur felt. Is all of this correct?

    2. What is your recommendation regarding the top hat’s crown depth?
    Common versions appear to measure approximately 12, 13.5 or 15 centimetres.
    Personally, I experience the 15cm one as more attractive. It appears to me
    that the 15cm top hat is more elegant and more complementary to the ensemble.

    I thank you for your time. I am looking forward to more Gentleman’s Gazette
    content.

    Yours sincerely,
    William

  5. Dear William
    The only Top Hat that is easy to buy these days is in fur felt .
    The fine silk or Beaver are more likely vintage and cost a bomb if you can’t find one that really look good enough to wear .
    For a wedding you can get away with Grey ( always felt ) but black is truly the thing to do .
    As for size in crown height , 15cm is traditional . The smaller height is normally reserved for coachmen , a little more stable when the carriage is drawn or the horse is in dressage .
    For added lift go to a DB waistecoat with pocket watch and Albert Chain . A wrist watch is a no no.

    1. Dear Mr. Hewitt,

      Thank you very much for your reply and for devoting some of your time
      and energy to answering my questions. I highly appreciate what you did,
      and I find the additional information that you gave especially interesting
      and helpful. I wish you a nice day.

      Yours sincerely,
      William

      1. I know the person who sells vintage top hats to Lock, which then mark it up handsomely especially before Royal Ascot…

  6. Splendid as always. The stroller is too seldom seen in the States, and I still wear one once or twice a month. A mix of striped trousers and waistcoats keeps it fresh, and in snowy weather grey gloves and a black or grey-w/black-band Homburg. I suppose the grey is not technically quite correct, but a bit jaunty. Sprezzatura and all that.

  7. Excellent article. It would be appreciated if you could reference some vintage stores where the detachable wing collars, collar studs and the accompanying vintage shirts may be found. We’ve tried the most popular vintage store in Boston ..Bobby from Boston …however…they are extremely rude and unhelpful. Your articles are always interesting. I must ask that you please be more attentive to your English grammar and sentence construction.

  8. In addition, Mr. Sven, I find it unfortunate that you mention that you do not own a Morning Suit. I am fortunate to have one, bespoke… by the finest tailor shop in Boston, passed on to me from generations. It is in perfect, brand- new condition and fits me quite well. Again..your articles are extraordinarily informative…however, please be more scrupulous in your use of the English language..i.e. ..grammar, spelling etc.

  9. In addition, Mr. Sven, I find it unfortunate that you mention that you do not own a Morning Suit. I am fortunate to have one, bespoke… by the finest tailor shop in Boston, passed on to me from generations. It is in perfect, brand- new condition and fits me quite well. Again..your articles are extraordinarily informative…however, please be more scrupulous in your use of the English language..i.e. ..grammar, spelling etc.

  10. However, in deference to you , and with all due respect…we realize that your are not American and therefore would not have explicit knowledge of our grammar.

  11. Under no circumstances should you wear a bow tie with a Morning coat
    I was at a Buckingham palace garden party on Tuesday and we know how to dress
    If I could find a way of posting photos on this site I would

  12. A bow tie with morning dress? Definitely not. Morning dress is worn at many non-‘society’ weddings in UK; I’ve been to enough to make owning morning dress worthwhile. I’ve also worn it to Royal Ascot and even a funeral.

  13. Hey Raphael,

    Thanks for the in depth guide. I recently bought a decent fitting vintage morning coat ensemble. The trousers fit good around the waist and are just the right length, however they are a bit ‘baggy’. The crotch is a lot lower than on my normal pants and the legs are a lot wider so it sometimes feels like I’m wearing a pyjama. Is this appropriate for morning coats or should I have it altered?

    Kind regards,

    Tom

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