16 Overcoat DO’s & DON’Ts

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Let’s Go Over How to Wear Overcoats!

When you are in the midst of cold weather, an overcoat becomes an essential tool for the well-dressed gentlemen, but precisely because you are well-dressed, you want to ensure that your overcoat looks its very best and elevates your entire ensemble.

By following these simple “Do’s” and “Don’ts,” you can ensure that your overcoat is a striking component, and not a boring addition, to your winter attire.

Unsure what distinguishes overcoats, topcoats, and greatcoats?

1. Don’t Settle for a Boring Black Overcoats

Illustration of colorful overcoats
Colorful overcoats were a defining feature of outerwear during the Golden Age of Menswear.

In an effort to be as functional and utilitarian as possible, too many men buy overcoats in black because they assume it will be easier to pair with all of their outfits. But in addition to being the most overrated color in menswear, black overcoats will show every hair and speck of dust, and while they won’t clash with other colors, they don’t emphasize them, either. 

A photograph of Marcel Proust

“…he’s one of the best-known men in Paris, that great big fair-haired boy who wears such swagger clothes; he always has a flower in his buttonhole and a light-coloured overcoat with a fold down the back….”

From Swann's Way by Marcel Proust

Overcoats give you the opportunity to stand out from the crowd, and during the Golden Age of Menswear, stylish gentlemen wore overcoats in an array of stimulating but foundational colors, including brown, tan, gray, shades of blue, and most earth tones.

Grey Gloves with a navy paletot overcoat and chalk stripe business suit
Gray, blue, and brown are all classic, versatile overcoat color options.

This diverse color palette allows you to cultivate an outerwear collection that harmonizes with your other garments while elevating them as well, unlike drab black, which tends to drag down other articles in every dress code except for formal evening attire. 

So, skip the black overcoat and find something vibrant and fun that will be an asset and not a drag on your look!

Colorful attire is just one way that vintage gents dressed better!

2. Do Opt for Knee-Length Overcoats

Since the late 1960s, shorter overcoats that fall above the knee or even at mid-thigh have been very popular in menswear. This fad can be attributed to a desire by consumers to emphasize their legs and to manufacturers who want to cut costs: less length means less fabric, which translates to a lower cost for buyers and more profits for makers.

But during the Golden Age of Menswear, long overcoats that reached to around the knee were preferred because they covered more of the body, keeping the wearer warmer, and were more flattering to the figure. 

Dark Green Overcoat

What is your correct

Overcoat Length?

As with most matters of fit, you should keep your own proportions in mind when selecting the length for your overcoat. If you’re a shorter man, go with something that is knee-length or slightly shorter. If you’re a taller man, go with something knee-length or slightly longer. If you’re of regular height, just go with something around knee length.

In the early 20th century, winter coats often had an even greater length, reaching to the mid-calf or ankles. While more insulating, this length can appear dated and even a little stodgy today, so bear that in mind if you are considering an even longer garment. 

Illustration of a tall and short man in long overcoats
No matter your height, a longer overcoat will flatter your size.

3. Do Favor 100% Natural Overcoat Materials

Material composition label on an overcoat
Always check the tags to see the material composition of an overcoat.

Unfortunately, nowadays even expensive overcoats are often made from synthetic or blended fabric because it makes the entire garment less costly and thus more affordable, thereby increasing the profit margins for the manufacturer. 

While synthetics like polyester nylon fibers can make a garment more durable, they’re not as insulating as natural fibers such as cashmere, or wool, or alpaca: you will either be chilly because the garment won’t trap your body heat well or stuffy and clammy because it makes you sweat profusely. Synthetics also age poorly, become threadbare and worn much more quickly than natural fibers. 

A gray overcoat works with any kind of suit

Why Raphael always prefers

Wool Overcoats

Raphael prefers overcoats made from 100% wool: it’s heavy, it’s not overly expensive, it doesn’t absorb water, and it always keeps him warm. While cashmere is soft to the touch and very lovely, Raphael finds it too lightweight for Minnesota winters and it just doesn’t keep him warm on those very frigid days. While brands like Loro Piana have woven denser cashmere designed for the cold, most cashmere weaves are too lightweight for extreme temperatures.

Don’t be sheepish!

4. Avoid Zippers At All Costs

Photo of an overcoat with a zipper
Zippers do not belong on classic overcoats.

While zippers are a common sight on casual or functional sports jackets, they don’t belong on overcoats, which are intended to have elegant, classic lines. Buttons are more conventional, will function more properly, and are more in keeping with the formality of an overcoat. You could also consider wooden toggles if you happen to be wearing a duffle coat.

Photo of Helen Kane

“Button up your overcoat / When you’re on a spree / Take good care of yourself / You belong to me!”

Helen Kane

5. Do Consider a Double-Breasted Overcoat

Illustration Comparing a single breasted and double breasted overcoat
In addition to being warmer, double-breasted overcoats tend to be more visually interesting than single-breasted examples.

While a single-breasted coat is a perfectly fine option for outerwear, we believe that double-breasted overcoats are the more engaging of coat styles because they not only set your outerwear apart, they also keep you warmer because of the extra layer of fabric.

Ulster inspired overcoats with fur shawl collars for men paired with silk scarves from 1937

Make sure that you’re wearing the

Proper Lapels

If you opt for a double-breasted coat, make sure it has peak lapels, which is the conventional option for the garment, or an Ulster collar, which is also appropriate for double-breasted overcoats. Avoid notched lapels because they were not associated with this garment during the Golden Age of Menswear: they were a fad during the 1980s, and so wearing them today can appear very dated.

Learn more about the Ulster collar!

6. Don’t Forget The Hat

Illustration of hats worn with overcoats
A classic hat can be the perfect finishing touch to any overcoat ensemble.

The broad and masculine lines typical of an overcoat, especially at the shoulders, can make your head appear smaller if you neglect to wear a hat, so to put the finishing touches on your outerwear ensemble, do not neglect headgear! Not only will a hat help keep you warmer, but it will complement your overcoat and emphasize the classic unity of your outfit.

What hat should you pair with your overcoat?

Illustration of two men wearing scarves

For a darker or more formal overcoat

Homburg

Raphael wearing a paletot overcoat with black velvet collar, light gray fedora with black band, and burgundy scarf

Acceptable for most overcoats

Fedora

Photo of overly bold flat cap and jacket

If you want to appear more casual

Flat Cap

7. Do Employ Boutonnieres and Pocket Squares

Illustration of an overcoat worn with a boutonniere and pocket square
Boutonnieres and pocket squares were often worn with overcoats during the Golden Age of Menswear.

Just like with your jacket, if your overcoat has a lapel buttonhole and a breast pocket, you should utilize them as an opportunity to add unexpected visual interest and personality to your look. Few things enliven a drab winter’s day like a fresh boutonniere in your buttonhole or a whimsical pocket square on your front.

From your friends at Fort Belvedere …

Boutonnieres

Beautiful Boutonnieres

A fresh flower in the lapel buttonhole has been the hallmark of many elegant gentlemen. Unfortunately, they are hard to come by these days and prone to wilting. Therefore we created a range of flowers that are delicately handmade in Germany from real silk. They look real up close but will never wilt. Once you put one of those little buttonhole flowers on your lapel, compliments will come your way, guaranteed!

Dozens of boutonnieres available here!

Using different material in you pocket square can make a difference

Perfect Pocket Squares

Pocket squares are probably the easiest and quickest way to improve your look but they are not all created equal. Most are too small because they are simply cut to get the biggest yield from the piece of fabric it is made off, and then they are cheaply machine hemmed. At Fort Belvedere we determine the size of each square by the specific fabric so you end up with the perfectly sized pocket square that will neither disappear in your chest pocket nor create any bulk. We offer a range of different materials in silk, wool or blends thereof, all of which are meticulously handrolled. All of the embroidery work is done by hand and difficult to find these days.

Find your next pocket square here!

A Tip from Raphael:

Some overcoats have a buttonhole on both lapels, but traditionally, a flower is only worn on the left side. Also, if your breast pocket has a flap, it was not intended to hold a pocket square.

8. Don’t Wear a Baggy Overcoat

Leave enough room in your overcoat
Your overcoat should have sufficient room for movement without appearing baggy.

Fit is king in Classic Style, and this applies to overcoats as well. A baggy overcoat will make you appear undersized and inelegant, so ensure that your overcoat fits well across your body. Fortunately, you can employ the same fit types that we share in our guide to how a suit should fit.

A fashion illustration from 1929 shows a dapper gentleman in a flat cap, an impressive peaked lapel overcoat, and a green suit that would all be wearable today

Do this to get an overcoat

Perfect Fit

When trying on an overcoat, determine whether or not you will most often be wearing it over a jacket or not. If you intend to wear a jacket, wear one when you are getting your overcoat fitted so you can ensure you have enough space in the shoulder area and the upper arm in your sleeve. Otherwise, you can end up with a large coat in the torso that is just too tight in the sleeves, and that limits the range of movement.

9. Do Employ Striking and Classic Details

Illustration of unique overcoats
Overcoats can feature visual interest in a variety of ways, including their weave, patterns, and details.

An overcoat is likely to be a signature feature of your cold-weather ensembles, so consider the addition of a tasteful but unique detail to help it stand out, like those typical of a Chesterfield, paletot, or Inverness coat

A simple option is an exciting weave in the fabric; it’s an understated but versatile option you can wear with all kinds of suits. Alternatively, you could also go with a bold pattern, like herringbone. For added effect, oversized patterns appear especially dapper on outerwear.

There are also structural details that can add personality to your overcoat. These include epaulets, angle pockets, cuffs, or similar features. They’re all classic details, and it’s fun to play with them on an overcoat.

Learn more about patterns in Classic Menswear!

Photo of a blended leather and canvas coat
Trendy fabric combinations like canvas and leather are not typical of timeless, classic style.

In an effort to stand out, some contemporary overcoat makers are mixing and matching overcoat and topcoat styles and details to produce hybrids that are meant to appear edgy and cool but just end up looking dated and frankly odd. 

For example, if you have a trench coat, it should be made out of a cotton gabardine. If you start making it in a wool fabric or leather, the look is just very disadvantageous and too reminiscent of the 1980s or 1990s.

Consider these classic overcoat styles!

Red Tweed overcoat
Red Tweed overcoat

11. Do Invest in a Quality Overcoat

Illustration of Navy overcoat with silk lining
A quality overcoat can be worn many times, ensuring good cost-per-wear and becoming a treasured garment.

Don’t be afraid to invest a little money in a good-quality overcoat. It will last longer than even a suit most of the time and because you are likely to only have a few overcoats, you will enjoy greater use of them if they drape well, are durable, and pair well with your entire wardrobe.

Learn the secrets of cost-per-wear!

12. Don’t Be Afraid To Go Vintage

Photo of interior of vintage store
Vintage stores are often filled with quality overcoats.

By investing your time to seek out a quality vintage or second hand overcoat in vintage or thrift stores, you can enjoy considerable savings and often a superior garment. Historically, overcoats were made from much heavier materials than they are today, contributing to a superior drape and better insulation. They also feature detailing and color combinations more typical of the Golden Age of Menswear.

Photo of Raphael in an overcoat

Raphael prefers

Vintage Overcoats

Most of Raphae’s overcoats are vintage, and he always receives compliments whenever he wears them. In fact, he found a beautiful, heavy-weight herringbone overcoat at a flea market and it cost just $5!

Discover our secrets to vintage shopping!

13. Don’t Mix Overcoats with Casual Attire

Raphael wearing a perfecto jacket on the left side and wearing a Trailmaster on the right side.
Casual attire calls for casual jackets, not overcoats!

Overcoats have a particular bulk, lines, and detailing that is typical of more formal attire. As such, they are a poor complement to casual attire. Pairing your overcoat with casual garments like a t-shirt, polo shirt or jeans can have an incongruous effect that appears odd.

Photograph of Edith Wharton

“…and just then he saw two young men of fashionable cut approaching. There was a familiar air about their overcoats and the way their smart silk mufflers were folded over their white ties….”

From The Age of Innocence by Edith Wharton

Therefore, pair your casual garments with a hoodie, quilted jacket, or similar casual outerwear, and the same rule applies for casual accessories like a baseball hat.

See our favorite casual jackets!

14. Do Favor Heavier-Weight Overcoats

Photo of vintage overcoats
Because of the heavier weight of the fabric employed, vintage overcoats are known for their exceptional drape.

Heavier fabrics are more forgiving to a variety of body types, are more resistant to wrinkles, and are better at keeping you warm. When shopping for an overcoat, we suggest always picking examples that feel substantial and heavy: they are likely to be superior.

Illustration of a man at a coat check where a hat check coat check girl takes his hat

Overcoats used to weigh

How Much?

Historically, many overcoats could be found with weights between 28 – 30 ounces or 850 – 900 grams. Today, fabric with 14 – 19 ounces or 420 – 570 grams is considered to be heavy. Fortunately, the cloth finishing today is much better, so fabrics are softer which is nice but that doesn’t help you if you don’t stay warm when it’s really windy and cold outside.

15. Don’t Show Cuffs On An Overcoat

Proper Sleeve length
Proper Sleeve length of an overcoat

With regular suit jackets or sport coats, it is typical to show a little bit of your shirt cuff. With an overcoat, that’s not the convention. Instead, you want the overcoat sleeve to reach all the way down to the beginning of your thumb, so that it covers your entire jacket and gives a little room for movement without letting in the cold air.

At the same time, you don’t want the overcoat sleeve to cover your thumb. Otherwise, it looks too long and causes the entire garment to appear ill-fitting. 

Photo of a polo coat with baggy sleeves
While a good fit in the body, this polo coat overcoat is too long in the sleeves.

Determine the proper sleeve length for you!

16. Do Consider a Buttoned Vent

Photo of an overcoat with vent buttons
Vent buttons allow you to control how the air circulates under your overcoat.

Some overcoats feature a button at the vent on the rear tail of the overcoat. When unbuttoned, this vent allows the freer circulation of air to keep you feeling fresh and aerated. As the temperature drops or the wind picks up, this vent can be buttoned closed, helping you stay warm.

If your overcoat does not have this feature, an alterations tailor may be able to add it for you.

Learn what your tailor can and can’t do!

Bonus Tip: Do Accessorize Your Overcoat

If you wear an overcoat, try to add classic accessories such as a scarf or gloves. Not only will these elements help keep you warm, they will provide even more visual interest and a touch of unexpected personality to your entire look. 

To match the formality and dignity of your overcoat, opt for leather dress gloves and not bulky, synthetic utilitarian gloves. Likewise, favor scarves in cashmere, wool, or alpaca that are the sufficient length for elegant scarf knots.

Direct from Fort Belvedere

In the market for an overcoat?

Overcoat FAQ

What length should my overcoat be?

Choose an overcoat that ends just above the knee or slightly below. This is a classic length that ensures coverage and looks proportional to most body types. Avoid shorter coats, as they can make you look disproportionate, or too long, which can overpower your frame and make movement cumbersome.

What about the fit of an overcoat?

Aim for a snug fit in the shoulders and chest with enough room to comfortably layer a suit or sweater underneath without bulging. Don’t wear an overcoat that’s too tight and restricts movement, or one that’s overly loose and looks baggy. Both extremes take away from the coat’s sophistication.

Should my overcoat match my suit?

In general, you should coordinate your overcoat with your suit. Neutral colors like black, gray, navy, or camel are versatile and typically easy to match, but don’t feel obliged to have an exact color match unless it’s for a very formal event. Complementary colors work well together, too.

Are there any specific materials I should consider for an overcoat?

Invest in quality materials like wool, cashmere, or blends that provide warmth and durability. Avoid cheap, low-quality fabrics that won’t hold up against the elements or wear out quickly.

Can I accessorize my overcoat?

Yes! Accessorize with scarves, gloves, and hats to add personal style while staying warm, but don’t over-accessorize with too much visual clutter. Keep it simple to maintain the coat’s elegance. Too many accessories can look cluttered and detract from the overcoat’s refined appearance.

What’s important to remember when caring for my overcoat?

Be sure to follow the care label instructions. Most overcoats should be dry cleaned occasionally to maintain their shape and fabric integrity. Don’t neglect proper care practices like hanging your overcoat on a sturdy hanger to avoid misshaping. Regular maintenance will ensure the longevity of your coat.

Do overcoats have formality levels?

Yes, they do! Overcoats with structural detailing like flap pockets or prominent belts tend to be more casual, as do overcoats in lighter colors. The most formal overcoats will have relatively plain fronts, slim lines, and will be black in color. They are designed to be worn with formal evening attire, such as a tuxedo. 

Conclusion

Illustrations of 1930s overcoats
No matter which overcoat you wear, make sure that you wear it with style!

A classic overcoat can elevate your style to new heights when worn correctly. Whether you’re dressing for a formal event or simply looking to stay warm in style, keeping these dos and don’ts in mind will ensure your overcoat is always an asset to your ensemble.

In your opinion, what makes an overcoat stand out? Drop a comment below!

Outfit Rundown

Today, Raphael is wearing a Paletot-style overcoat made by Chester Barrie. It is double-breasted and features a 2 x 6 button configuration, with two decorative buttons, all of which are made from dark horn. It has two side flap pockets and no breast pocket, but the lapel does have a buttonhole.

The fabric is 100% wool and features a combination of interwoven charcoal gray, blue, and black threads. The rear of the collar is also made from distinctive black velvet. The hem of the overcoat reaches exactly to Raphael’s knees. 

Raphael’s trousers are dark brown corduroys, and his shoes are black cap-toe Balmoral oxford boots lined with fur.

Photo of Raphael in an overcoat
Raphael took the “do’s and don’ts” of overcoats into consideration when planning today’s outfit!

The scarf is double-sided and made from a blend of silk and wool. Like the Edelweiss boutonniere Raphael is wearing, it is made by Fort Belvedere. Raphael’s lamb nappa cashmere-lined gloves, in a dashing petrol blue, are also Fort Belvedere products.

On his head, Raphael is wearing a navy felt fedora made by the vintage German company Fischer. He added the contrasting hatband for greater visual interest. 

Velvet Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

Mid Grey Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Navy Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton

Reversible Scarf in Burgundy Red and Blue Silk Wool Motifs and Paisley - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Reversible Scarf in Burgundy Red and Blue Silk Wool Motifs and Paisley

Petrol Blue Mens Gloves with Button in Lamb Nappa Leather by Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Petrol Blue Men's Gloves with Button in Lamb Nappa Leather

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Reader Comments

  1. Correct fit and appropriate drop. I an for the longer than knee overcoat as they are elegant even though a but old fashioned. Inclass all by itself.

    1. Consider also a below the knee Austrian or German made loden overcoat. They are excellent value, so warm, great styling and last forever. Best colours are the traditional green, dark blue or charcoal. More rare is the camel colour.

      1. got to agree with Arthur…I picked up a Salko (Austrian) overcoat that has a very plain (almost cape- like) cut, with hidden buttons. It is medium weight Alpaca in the traditional Loden.
        Loden is a great choice because it is not only a very natural green colour (they boil the fabric in Pine needles!) but in addition they brush the material to give it a shower proof finish…excellent for wet wintry days or walking out into the snow.

    2. Right. Poirot’s primary offense is a going overkill on gray, not the length. Can be a bit of pain getting in & out of the car and some cloak rooms may leave you dragging on the floor a bit. My experience ( having grown up in Chicago ) is they can “wick up” sidewalk slush and become quite heavy. That and they’ll require dry cleaning more often and due to size and length, are not cheap.

      Being the Windy City, gusts can get under them and the garment may wind up more behind you than ON you. Just a few observations.

  2. And we have another WINNER !

    I do however prefer an overcoat to extend 2-3 inches below the knee except for the shortest men — say less than 5’6″.

    Shawl collars of fur usually look best with a fedora…otherwise omit the shawl-collar and wear the hat of your choice.

  3. As the days go from cool to cold and wet, I channel my inner “Boggie” with the aid of my classic trench coat and Fedora. A solid pair of leather gloves and it’s “here’s looking at you, kid.”
    Happy Dapper holidays!

    1. And there’s nothing like the tension of a roomful of people just waiting to hear you say it!? I have to agree w/ SRS, mixing it casual nearly always results in epic fail. Throwing one on to check the mail or run garbage cans to the curb is fine but beyond that?

      And holes in jeans don’t ‘work’ for anyone. Let alone those of us graying…

      1. Holes in the jeans. Laugh. The sight of that ‘gent’ approaching my car, (stopped in traffic)…..clunk go the door-locks. Sorry, I have no small change today.

  4. Overcoat, nothing like owning a good one . Mine is by Crombie one of a few great great brands from GB , a good choice in pure wool or cashmere will last you a life time . A scarf is essential , cashmere or even vicuña really sets it off and yes get the gloves .
    If you are going to have an overcoat I would say to put it on , this hanging on the shoulders looks a bit foppish to me .

  5. These are all excellent tips, and I especially appreciate the bit about looking for a nice, vintage overcoat – I think as long as you get the fit right, the materials, construction and styling are often really lovely and can help a man stand out in a good and dignified way.

  6. Brilliant, as usual, mr. Schneider, but I disagree a bit in the following phrase:

    “If you wear an overcoat, try to add classic accessories such as a SCARF..”
    In my opinion, when using an overcoat, to wear a scarf (or a Pashmina) is just mandatory.

    Greetings from Spain.

    1. Agreed. Much like a proper hat, a scarf is absolutely mandatory with an overcoat. Gloves, perhaps a bit less so, but still highly recommended.

      I usually wear my gray glen plaid scarf with both my charcoal gray and vicuna-colored cashmere overcoats.

  7. Another great article & video.

    I agree about having some interesting coloured coats. Of course, you will also need a range of different coloured hats to go with them. The right hat with the right coat makes a big difference to the overall outfit. It is like getting the right tie with the right suit.

  8. I find that many overcoats often have too much uncovered space in the chest area that lets in the cold air even with a scarf. I would be interested in knowing what the “standard” weight wool overcoat is from a Savile Row Bespoke tailor like Anderson & Sheppard or Huntsman.That is to say what is the general starting point for a warm winter coat made from quality all wool and not cashmere.

  9. Just a couple of weeks ago, I brought out my wool overcoat. I got it 40 years ago, but as I got older and gained weight, I stopped wearing it. It just didn’t fit my style for so long, and I often thought about giving it away, but I just couldn’t. (My mother actually bought it for me when I was young man, so I’m a bit sentimental about it). Fortunately, I lost enough weight recently to be back to what I was back then, and I am now old enough to want to look like a man of style. (Thanks Sven!). It fits perfectly once again.
    One button came off, though, so I took it to the cleaners which dry cleaned it, reattached two buttons that were loose, and sewed up the interior lining that she found was ripped. So for $90, I have a great vintage coat that looks spectacular, and makes me feel like a real gentleman.

  10. Why do overcoats have a deep v when they are button. I have a cashmere scarf that I have to wear to keep warm. The coat is made in England from all wool.

  11. Great article. Each of these tips were taught to me decades ago by my Father and Grandfathers. I, in turn, taught them to my son. I was always taught that you put as much time and thought into your outerwear as you do your suitings and shirtings. Why, I asked, because in the fall and winter months it’s your outerwear that will make that all important to a professional first impression. Myself, vicuna topcoat, pocket square silk/wool scarf, topped off with a Royal Stetson Saxon fedora in cordovan brown. My son is a grey Chesterfield man, pocket square, silk scarf. Like many 30 somethings the hat is still under consideration.