It’s once again time for some outfits from Pitti Uomo 86. If you would like to see more pictures from Pitti Uomo, please click here. Just like in the past, we subdivided the outfits into 3 categories: Young(er)men, Seasoned Gentlemen and Pitti Peacocks.
First up this gentleman wears a shirt with an unfused, soft collar. For summer that’s great but if you have a classic collar with little spread, you should wear a slim tie knot such as the four-in-hand, and not wide tie knots like a windsor of half-windsor. The jacket has a very narrow horizontal button stance and of course it is short. Personally, I like the color combination of blue and brown very much.
On the left, we see another combination of green and blue with a checked shirt. The green makes it unusual but at the same time it is subdued and classic- a great all year around color for men. In the middle you can see a light blue windowpane suite. Lately, windowpanes have become rather popular, and I really welcome that. Personally, I like the fact that the lapels are not too slim, and while the length of the coat is in line with the current fashion of short jackets, I personally prefer it a little longer.
Although club blazers are quintessentially British, you can see it worn here in a very Italian way: unbuttoned with short, white pants, dark knit tie, and brown suede tassel loafers without socks and of course sunglasses.
This beige outfit is again rather subdued. No big contrasts or strong color, just the wool tie and white pocket square adds a bit of texture. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice the handmade buttonhole, the pick stitching and the Italian shape of the patch pocket. Overall, this is a great example of a young man wearing and outfit that does not scream ” I am unique” but that’s the reasons he looks so well put together.
More green jackets. Whether it is a light green linen jacket or one with subtle windowpanes, green seems to be more popular again. If you already have the usual grey, blue and brown sportcoats, consider something green.
On the left, we have a blue double windowpane suit, striped shirt and blue tie with boutonniere flower and red bordered pocket square. It’s obviously full of accents especially if you take another look at this wrist, but is still less attention seeking than the outfit on the right. This chap clearly wantsto be noticed. I think a blue linen or knit tie would have been the better choice or even something in a darker green, but he certainly has the guts to try something new and that’s admirable!
Lino pulls off his standard DB cut, this time in a small blue check. It seems like his outfits haven’t changed much over the years. He prefers Rayban Wayfarers – the old kind, regular neckties with the embroidered 7 (no bow ties), wrist bands and often blue colors. I wonder whether he will continue to remain true to this style.
This seasoned gent wears a 4×2 navy striped suit with a white shirt and a double stripe brown tie. I am sure, it was very deliberate to combine stripes with stripes and although the stripes are bigger, the distance is about the same, which is why I think a different tie would have been better. Apart from that, the cloth reminds me more of a business suit, however by adding white mother of pearl buttons, and by leaving the shirt cuffs unbottened the whole ensemble gets a much more casual note.
It’s admirable to see someone pulling off a three piece suit in the summer! No matter how thin, breathable or light the fabric is, the extra layer is insulating. I like the color of the suit as well as the pattern matching, though I would advice against having the tie peak out from underneath your vest, because it looks more sloppy than nonchalant.
Toni Rossi from the men’s store Halston in Napoli pulled off an all white look – it suits him and is appropriate for the weather. On the other hand, if you have pale skin, avoid wearing all white outfits.
This vest looks like it came from his son’s closet or from a vintage store, because back in the day, men were shorter and their trousers had a higher rise. Consequently, the vest needed to be shorter. When you wear a vest, always make sure that it covers the waistband of your pants and never wear a belt with it. Either suspenders or side adjusters because the belt will make you look bigger around your waistline.
Wearing shirt cuffs unbuttoned really helps to keep you cool. However, when you do it ensure that the sleeve length is right. Otherwise your shirt ends on your thumb which is too long.
Great windowpand sportcoat and because it is the centerpiece of the outfit, the pants and accessories are more subdued, with the exception of the camouflage laptop bag. When you incorporate one loud piece into your outfit, tone down the other ones, otherwise it will likely not work.
Personally, I like the Prince of Wales plaid very much, at the same time, the scale seen here is probably better suited to an overcoat than a sport jacket that is worn with a casual shirt.
Beige and brown are fantastic colors, especially when combined with light blue or white. At the moment it seems like the 6×2 double breasted, peak lapel blazer is the most sought after jacket style although a single breasted silhouette would probably be better for warm summers, because the extra layer of cloth makes you feel warmer. At the same time, I favor a DB silhouette myself and so I can totally understand why you would want to wear a DB jacket in the summer.
Pitti Peacock is a term I coined a couple of seasons ago. It describes men who dress very flamboyantly in bold patterns and colors to attract attentions like Peacocks. At Pitti Uomo you will probably find the highest density of such peacock outfits anywhere, and while I personally would not wear these outfits, I respect the wearers for pushing the boundaries and for trying to create something new. What do you think about those outfits?