Should You Wear Pleated Pants?

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For some, the very mention of pleated pants is enough to evoke flashbacks to the worst menswear fashions of the ‘80s and ‘90s. With current trends favoring flat-front cuts, the question of whether you should wear pleats today is often answered with a resounding “no.” It’s time we shed our existing negative perceptions and rethink pleated pants; you can definitely wear them, and we’ll tell you how.

Table of Contents
  1. Outfit Rundown

What are Pleated Pants?

In the world of menswear, pleats can be defined as gathered folds of fabric located below the waist, in the area known as the rise, or simply the front, on a pair of trousers. On flat-front trousers, as the name states, the fabric in this area is smooth. Pleats can either be forward facing, in which the folded fabric points inward, toward the fly of your pants, or reverse—pointing in the direction of the pockets. The British style generally favors inward-facing pleats whereas pants in a more Italian, specifically, Neapolitan style usually face outward. In terms of which is better, forward pleats usually receive less criticism as they tend to remain flat, while outward ones may open and stay open, resulting in ballooning fabric. The number of pleats that you have can vary: usually, one or two, though some men have experimented with three and even four pleats.

Double inward-facing pleats on Styleforum.
Double inward-facing pleats on Styleforum. [Image Credit: Pinterest]

Why Do Pleated Pants Have a Bad Reputation?

The short answer is that they are simply out of style. In line with the material excesses of the ‘80s, pants from that decade often displayed an excess of material in the form of pleats. Because pleats gather extra fabric in the rise area of a pair of pants, below the waist, if too much fabric is added there it can result in unsightly ballooning in the groin area. Some poor trouser designs also expanded this concept, rather literally, to create more room throughout the pants, especially in the legs. This resulted in a baggy, voluminous garment stereotypically identified with middle-management drones wearing big khakis on casual Friday.

on Johnson wearing pleated pants (and a large shouldered jacket) typical of the 1980s.
Don Johnson wearing pleated pants (and a large shouldered jacket) typical of the 1980s. [Image Credit: Pinterest]

However, if you look at menswear fashion illustrations, advertisements or actors from earlier eras, you’ll often see fuller garments and an abundance of pleats that make them look sharp. Cary Grant wore suits with pleated pants as did Sean Connery in the role of James Bond. Thus, the disdain for pleated pants nowadays stems from the overall preference for slimmer and more fitted looks rather than anything inherently wrong with pleats.

British born actor Cary Grant (1904 - 1986) walking outdoors wearing a pinstripe jacket and a hat, 1940s
British born actor Cary Grant (1904 – 1986) walking outdoors wearing a pinstripe jacket and a hat, 1940s. [Image Credit: DEILA TAYLOR]

Some of the scorn is a matter of generational bias. Pleated pants are weighed down with the connotations of being traditional and stodgy, what your parents or grandparents wore, the garment of old men, as opposed to the youthful minimalism of slim, flat-fronted pants. Gentleman’s Gazette readers, who enjoy classic style, are less likely to reject pleated pants on the basis of traditionalism, but those who do prefer contemporary style will also find versions that appeal to them.

Vintage illustration of suits featuring double pleats from Kuppenheimer, a menswear retailer based in Chicago, photographed by John Blah.
Vintage illustration of suits featuring double pleats from Kuppenheimer, a menswear retailer based in Chicago, photographed by John Blah. [Imge Credit: Pinterest]

Pleated Pants Today

Some of the issues of past decades have been solved simply by putting pleats on an otherwise more close-fitting pair of trousers, and beginning around 2016 we began seeing these on the designer menswear runways. However, regardless of the vagaries and vacillations of fashion from decade to decade or year to year, it is always possible to find moderately cut pleated pants that are in the “Goldilocks zone”–just right–neither too slim nor too loose fitting and thus timeless. When seeking enduring style, it’s hard to go wrong, no matter your age,  by taking the middle ground, just like choosing a moderate lapel and tie width instead of going too skinny or too wide.

Simon Crompton of Permanent Style wearing Ambrosi pleated pants with a moderate cut
Simon Crompton of Permanent Style wearing Ambrosi pleated pants with a moderate cut [Image Credit: Permanent Style]

So, Who Should Wear Pleated Pants?

Because of the extra fabric directly below the waist, those who want more comfort and ease of movement of the lower body would be wise to wear pleats. One situation that demands this is if you have some weight around your middle; pleats can help disguise this where more fitted flat-front pants would emphasize the shape of your belly. This is especially true if you wear your pants at your natural waist rather than low on your hips. The extra fabric provided by the pleats and the visual details they offer is enough to hide the size of your waistline.

In the case of Sven Raphael Schneider, he favors pleated pants for a reason that many men experience: they have thicker thighs that are simply not accommodated by modern, slimmer cuts.

Traditionally, pleats are recommended for thicker body types.
Traditionally, pleats are recommended for thicker body types.

On the other hand, it’s usually said that if you have a thin build, pleated pants are a risky proposition because wearing them will give you a baggy, unkempt appearance. However, this is only true if you go for cheap, mass-manufactured pleated pants that are loose all over. If you are lean and like pleats, you can pull off the look by emulating the Italians, especially the style of Naples. They wear pleated trousers with well-fitted legs and often in lighter weight fabrics that avoid a heavy, blousy look. The key is, again, to ensure the cut of the pants is not too full. Otherwise, the result will, at best, give you a definitively retro appearance or, at worst, make you look clownish.

Blogger Blue Loafers shows how pleated pants can look good on a thin frame if properly fitted.
Blogger Blue Loafers shows how pleated pants can look good on a thin frame if properly fitted. [Image Credit: Lookastic]

If you frequent menswear forums and comment pages online, you’re likely to encounter the complaints of men who have developed large thighs or seats from working out and are trying to find well-fitting trousers. A simple solution for these guys might be to try wearing pleated pants. The fact that this isn’t usually proposed as an option speaks to the average person’s negative bias against the style. Hopefully, we can counteract this perception.

Interestingly, pleats can be useful both if you sit for a long time and if you are highly active. Long-term sitting, besides increasing your risk of dying, can be more uncomfortable with the greater constriction of flat front pants. They eventually feel snug. On the other hand, if you have a job where you get up and down a lot and are moving about, the opening of the pleats can give you some extra mobility. Lastly, although it has been a rather taboo subject, it should also be mentioned that if you simply want more room for your privates, pleated pants will do the trick.

Paul Lux wearing trousers with open pleats.
Paul Lux wearing trousers with open pleats. [Image Credit: Parisian Gentleman]

How to Wear Pleated Pants

In addition to choosing an appropriate overall fit, there are several things you can do when wearing pleated pants to enhance their appearance.

Start with Lighter Fabrics

To my eye, pleats look best on lighter-weight fabrics. The heavier weight of a material like flannel contributes to the sense of volume created by pleats and can lead to a more old-fashioned look. It can certainly still be done with winter-weight cloth, but proper fit is even more crucial. A cuff can also help add weight to the hem of heavier-weight pleated pants for a trimmer look.

Opt for Fewer Pleats

Single pleats on dress pants blend into and continue the crease that runs up the center of each leg. This creates a longer and sharper line than in flat front pants, where the crease is broken by the smooth rise. So, single pleats are safe, but double pleats can look more relaxed or may be required if your body type demands them.

Single pleated pants present an elegant continuous crease from hem to waistband.
Single pleated pants present an elegant continuous crease from hem to waistband. [Image Credit: Put This On]

Pair Pleats with a High Rise

The contemporary style of wearing pants at the hips with a low rise is more suitable to flat-front trousers than pleated ones. The added fabric and the pleats themselves generally create a higher rise on the finished garment, which requires wearing them around your waistline. Worn in this way, they also do their job of flattering and disguising a stomach that isn’t perfectly flat.

Pleated pants should be worn high on the waist.
Pleated pants should be worn high on the waist. [Image Credit: THE TWEED PIG]

…with or without Cuffs

A search of images online will show a roughly 50-50 divide of pleated pants with or without cuffs. The idea behind getting cuffs is that they add visual weight and emphasis at the bottom of the trousers to counterbalance the appearance of pleats at the top. Cuffs do make the pants a bit more informal and some might see them as more traditional; for a more contemporary look, omit them.

Tailor Them with No Break

Given the potential associations of pleated pants with retro style, you’ll want to avoid a break to look modern. A break at the bottom of your trouser legs can enforce the perception of pleated trousers as sloppy looking. Moreover, a break, as the name suggests, interrupts the continuous crease down the front of your pants legs that a pleat can give you, so if you want to emphasize that sharp look, avoid a break. Lastly, if you decide on cuffs for your pleated pants, as with any pair of cuffed trousers, the convention is to have them just touching the top of your shoe.

Combine Pleated Pants with a Jacket

If you’re cautious about pleats, the easiest way to wear them would be with a jacket, usually as the bottoms of a suit. The jacket minimizes the visibility of the pleats but lets them do their job. They’re still a feature but not too obvious, and it looks like you could very well be wearing flat-front trousers if your jacket is buttoned. With a suit, you may want to go with inward pleats, because of their association with greater formality, and no cuffs. If you are bolder and want a stronger emphasis on your pleats, I recommend observing what the Neapolitan tailors do, especially Salvatore Ambrosi. Wear them high waisted with side adjusters along with an unbuttoned sport coat to carry a sense of summer sprezzatura or invoke a Mediterranean vibe. Alternatively, really flaunt your pleated pants by wearing them with a shirt alone, either a polo or a dress shirt with the collar unbuttoned and the sleeves rolled up.

Pleated trousers and a shirt with no jacket at Pitti Uomo
Pleated trousers and a shirt with no jacket at Pitti Uomo [Image Credit: Vogue]

Conclusion

Though it may be difficult to get the man on the street to choose pleated pants, those with a true appreciation of style and an interest in variety know their value. Ultimately, although pleated pants are especially suitable for specific body types, nearly any man can wear them–it’s just a matter of getting ones that fit well and trying them on yourself. Perhaps, if you don’t have them yet, you can broaden your wardrobe and expand your style.

Outfit Rundown

I’m wearing a pair of pleated pants they have outward-facing pleats and the color is simple black. My sports coat features a herringbone pattern, it’s primarily charcoal but it also picks up some green and brown tones too. The shirt is from Charles Tyrwhitt and it’s simple pink. The boutonniere picks up some of these pink tones, the tie is vintage and features a red stripe it’s primarily red but it has a multi stripe of khaki yellow, and blue. The pocket square picks up many of these same colors it’s a wool silk blend printed in England and it features a rabbit design. I’m wearing a pair of Eagle Claw cufflinks and they’re sterling silver and platinum-plated and feature a carnelian as the stone. My shoes are black and cap toed though we’d be tempted to call them Oxfords, they’re technically derby shoes because of the lacing. Finally my socks are simple black there isn’t really much else to say about them.

A pants with outward-facing pleats as part of Preston's outfit.
Pants with outward-facing pleats as part of Preston’s outfit.
Field Scabious Boutonniere Buttonhole Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Field Scabious Boutonniere Buttonhole

Off White Rabbits on Wine Red Silk Wool Pocket Square - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Off White Rabbits on Wine Red Silk Wool Pocket Square

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Carnelian Balls - 925 Sterling Silver Platinum Plated

Fort Belvedere

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Carnelian Balls – 925 Sterling Silver Platinum Plated

Are we “preaching to the choir”? Do you already enjoy pleated pants, or are they something you would take a pass on? Share your views!

Reader Comments

    1. About to lose faith in you. Pleats have never been out of style & should always be cuffed. I personally prefer British pleats.

        1. Yep. Pleats fell out of favor during WWII when war needs beat out fashion needs. Plain fronts are for jeans and work chinos. Pleats are always in style, but not always the fashion. The close fitting suits of today are the fashion, and don’t necessarily partner well with pleats. That said, clothes should have some drape, not look like a fabric condom.

        2. Love the connotative comparison to a condom. I liken the close fitting suits to a sausage casings.

        3. I distinguish a difference between style and fashion. To me a particular style changes little (pleats, cuffs, lapel widths, gouge lines, button stature, etc.); what goes in and out of fashion is what changes. Thus, there are style dressers and fashion dressers and I am a style dresser (classic, traditional). People who desire the “latest” are fashion dressers. Sometimes I am in fashion; sometimes not… but what I wear does not change.

        4. You are so right. Being a style dresser means that you are always well dressed and do not look silly when a particular fashion falls from grace. Besides having a wardrobe full of clothes you do not want to wear anymore.

        5. Post hoc: I misspoke; meant to say ‘gorge line’. Just a little brain-burp I frequently make. Apologies.

        6. As the late great Yves St Laurent put it ,”Fashions fade. Style is eternal”. I am afraid I am a pleat supporter…….style will always trump fashion.

        7. It is not uncommon for braided evening trousers to have pleats, much time spent sitting, and cuffs are impossible on evening clothes. Ditto striped morning suit trousers.

      1. Exactly that. As a rule, I wear pleated trousers (Neapolitan). And with turn-ups.
        Seems I wear GTH ones!

      2. Pleats come and go. I rather like them myself. Designers killed the look when they had multiple pleats some forward and some reverse.

    2. Can large pants, instead of being taken in at the back instead be taken in by pleating the front?

  1. Greetings,

    I enjoy wearing pants with both single as well as double pleats. While flat front trousers are more popular presently, pleats give men another style option, which we really need. Pleats also lend a dressier look to one’s outfit. Jeans and chinos, decidedly casual choices, underscore their less dressy appeal inasmuch as they do not have pleats. Suits that have pleated trousers signal a nod to elevated style as well as comfort.

    Best regards,

    Andrew Gregg,
    Palm Springs, CA

  2. Of course pleated trousers (being British) are not just classic, but comfortable. I am not overweight by any means, but while I am indebted not to the 80s and 90s, but in fashion to the 1920s and 30s, I also wish to be able to relax, even in formal attire. I think at the end of the day, if one is comfortable it will show and the fashion will work. If not, whatever one wears will look awkward and ‘wrong’.

  3. In my wardrobe for a thin fellow, I ALWAYS have pleated pants along with flat front – both trousers and walking shorts. You ask: Are we “preaching to the choir”?…NOT for persons of Style rather than fashion.

  4. Sir,
    I now have a few trousers without “pleats” (because you can´t buy any these days…); Nevertheless I agree with Mr. Russell and still think trousers for the elegant, stylish (“british”) man must have pleats and cuffs; you need a good tailor to make them right, of course, but they “look better” and certainly “feel better” when you are wearing them; and a “good tailor” will avoid all the “style excesses” that media promote and make suits and trousers you can wear for decades; kind regards, Martin (Vienna, AUT)

  5. A confident man will wear what he feels good in. He cuts his own style. Pleats or no pleats. Cuffs or no cuffs. As the great YSL said, ‘Fashion fades. Style is eternal”.

  6. Pleated pants and shorts have been stylish. What is not stylish is people that are too fat to make anything look good. Am I politically polite? Of course not.

  7. I am a lifelong fan of pleated trousers. They provide that little extra comfort and style not seen in many of today’s trimmer cut trousers. Long live the pleated trouser !

  8. It’s important to consider what you like and what suits you rather than blindly pander to the vicissitudes of fashion.
    As a person with an odd hip-to-waist ratio of about 0.75, I find that trousers with a high rise, single inward pleats, and no cuffs look the best and I’ve had almost nothing but compliments.

  9. Unless it’s a pair of jeans, I won’t even buy trousers without pleats and cuffs. I buy dress trousers off the peg, a couple inches longer than I need. Then I can take them to my tailor and he can adjust the trousers as needed and put on a little taller cuff than what was originally on them.

  10. Some men want fashion and can wear it well, some men want style
    and wear it well also. I would rather wear what looks good on me, and that is style with pleats.
    To me it looks better no matter where you go.

  11. I guess with fashion I have always not worried what someone liked. The clothing and Fedora hats are nearly present in all of my wardrobe. I wear bow ties as well. I don’t own one pair of dress pants that aren’t pleated and cuffed. Perhaps I was just born at the wrong time. I have recently updated my wardrobe. The kind of money I laid out would prevent me from starting from scratch. So, in style or not. I will wear the pants with my Fedoras and be content.

  12. Mr Perry is dead on. Pleats went out of fashion in America during the early sixties with JFK and the sack suit. Hats took a hit also. Then…..bell bottoms. Yea, I wore them as a teenager/young adult. Then flat front dress pants during the eighties. Sometime during the late eighties I purchased a nice pair of glen plaid slacks with pleats and cuffs. I believe Perry Ellis made them. I loved those pants. I’ve worn pleats ever since. I have made to measure and off-the-rack pants, always pleated and cuffed. I even have pleated, cuffed jeans. I made one concession to flat fronts with a nice grey off-the-rack flannel suit. With a 36 waist at 6 ft, 1 inch, and 210 pounds, I find pleats and cuffs give me the best profile. Thanks for delving into this subject.

  13. I stopped wearing pleated trousers because they balloon out when I sit down. However, I do like the way they look when worn in the classic style with a suit. I might try them again with a higher waist to see how they look.

  14. As is said there is a heavy emphasis on the utilitarian element of pleated trousers. Were it not for the pragmatic usage of pleats, I don’t think it would endure.

    Another element which the author pointed out is proper fit. Off-the-rack items are not conducive to elements of proportion. Essentially, putting pleats in a premium category.

    I do think that different cultures produce clothing which deemphasizes/emphasizes the body in various ways. Some are conservative where others are not. I do think there is an element of shame in revealing ones underlying physique in some cultures and clothing styles reflect that notion.

    In an era where obesity and mass production is rampant it seems logical that compromises are made at the expense of aesthetics.

  15. It was a great read. Like the article says, I stopped wearing pants with pleats after friends called it old fashioned. There is always a passive pressure from the society to change along with it. I’ve felt pants with pleats more comfortable. It will give enough room around the thighs. One other aspect is pleated pants would not go well with all the outfits. It will feel slightly awkward aesthetically to wear pleated pants with polo shirts and casual wears. This is just my notion.

    1. Not really… Firstly, you’d need them to be very large – even just a single pleat usually requires at least 3 inches of additional fabric in total. Secondly, because of where the pleat lies, trying to change a flat front into a pleat is going to throw off the lines of the side seams and possibly also the grain line of the front. Finally, in order to do so cleanly you’d have to completely remove and re-attach the waistband, which is not a trivial job.

      I’m not saying that it’s completely impossible, but it’s a lot of work and unlikely to give good results.

      Trousers can be easily adjusted at the centre-back seam because they’ve been designed and constructed with that in mind. But even so, any adjustment of more than 2 inches is problematic.

      1. Thank you.

        I’ve got two pairs of slacks that are easily six inches too big. IF it were at all a common request I’d try to find a tailor to pleat them. Being that it’s not, I won’t bother.
        Again, thank you for the reply.

  16. Pleated pants, my wife says I look best with them. They are comfortable. So I wear them.

  17. Several months (or articles) ago, ya’ll wrote that pleats were making a comeback and even pushed certain styles!! (WTF?) – I fit the ‘kinda thick torso’ body type – and love a fine, thin, single pleat done properly vs. no pleats on a high end suit or dress slacks – and no one even bats an eye (at a tailors) – So whose right now? What you said THEN? or what you say today? I’ll admit I scan read 90% of this (I’m on the move today but pleats are my hot button next to lapel and tie widths) and was shocked to see you all slagging them off when just months ago you were saying it was OK in certain cases? The poster above (like #3) says the same – He’s losing faith in you all for changing your minds weekly… Slow news days lads?

    Anyway – I’ve printed this out and will re-read it in more detail later – and see if we ‘agree’ or not – but a finally cut and properly tailored pleat(s) can still work and be in fashion – just depends on the pant, body type, material, and your overcoat or waist coat etc – But please keep things simple and CONSISTENT – Yes, styles and fashion change daily – but like ties, lapels, belts, shows etc – I’m not talking “Miami Vice’ Hammer time baggy pant here – I’m talking refined tailored pants that fit your body, perfectly – I LOVE the extra ‘space’ … and is easier to travel with too as the pleat absorbs folds more kindly..

    BTW – while I have your ear here – Your horizontal striped socks that you sell for like $80 – is that a brand you all ‘white label’ and resell? or is that a real mfg we can buy somewhere else at a more competitive price? We all love your articles, advice, videos and stories – but your goods (as high end and quality as they may be) I’m sorry, but not paying $80 for a pair of socks – I just bought 12 pair of CK underwear ‘on sale’ for $220 and about had a heart attack when that bill rolled in – but being my first set of their finest I’ve ever purchased, it’s like I’m wrapping myself in silk sheets every morning and just ordered 12 more – as I LOVE them … Now THAT is quality and for sure thought I was just throwing $$ away for a ‘brand name’ – Wrong! Want ‘pants’ (undergarments) that fit like a glove or your fav pair of jeans or boots? Def can recommend CK sports undergarments – Heaven on earth – and my S.O. loves them more than I do! :) She can’t stop touching them :) Good stuff – Thanks –

    Cheers

    BB

    1. Hi, BB. I;m nor sure which previous article you mean, as this is a reprint of the same article on pleated pants that we published some months ago, and in this one, the recommendation is to wear pleated pants if you like/if it suits you. I don’t think there’s any contradiction.

  18. JT

    Thank you for the video and I think the pleated pants are most stylish and on top of that very comfortable to wear !!

  19. I recommend a visit to the Armani/Silos, the museum that Giorgio Armani has created in Milan. Beautiful architecture and display. Many pleated trousers, beautiful as well.

  20. Pleated trousers. One item overlooked in the discussion: health issues. I have a lumbar vertebrae issue. I cannot wear my wallet in my rear trouser pocket. So I have to wear as small a wallet as possible in a front pocket. Obviously, I wear pleated trousers with this issue in mind. My preference are inverted, or “kiss” pleats, because they drape well around the wallet (and keys, change, etc. in the other pocket) and hide the inevitable bulge that can be embarrassing in the wrong circumstance. Unfortunately, either due to fashion, construction, or the fact that an inverse pleat does not wear as well as a typical pleat, and can pull loose, a gentlemen has a hard time finding inverted pleat trousers where I live. Thanks.

  21. It is true: if you have strong thighs (and mine have always been, though not necessarily from exercise…) pleated trousers are very comfortable – and flattering. However, pleated fronts work best with a high rise – and a flat stomach. Someone like Cary Grant always managed to keep that slim figure and that‘s why pleats looked so smart on him. If however you have developed a paunch somewhere along life’s byways pleats will unfortunately – because of the additional fabric – accentuate what you’re not too keen on highlighting…
    But reading that article my nostalgic thoughts went back to my youth in the 1970ies and to that flamboyant brother of the pleated trouser: the “Oxford Bags”. They had been the craze in 1920ies and 1930ies in England and made a comeback in the 1970ies. They came with plenty of pleats around the waistband as well, but the trouser legs just did not taper off. It was a bit like wearing tents around your legs, complete with that gorgeous rustling sound when you were walking. And goodness me, how dashing I must have looked in them…and wearing my platform shoes that came along with them.
    Well, I suppose we all like to sugarcoat memories of our youth…

  22. I only get pants with pleats because I have a big tush in proportion.
    Flat front pants look like I’m putting something out there for everyone to see.

  23. I detest pleats. I came of age in the mid to late 80’s. Didn’t like the way the looked on me then. Now that they are out of style in current times, I am well pleased. I will never go back to pleated pants. I prefer to keep it sleek and simple.
    You gentlemen enjoy your pleated and cuffed trousers to your heart’s content. I’ll pass and stay in the flat front, no cuffs, slight break camp. I know what style fits my body type, personality, and lifestyle. Pleats, cuffs and the requisite braces don’t do it.

  24. Every pair of trousers I own are pleated and cuffed, both bespoke suit trousers and pairs I buy online. The only flat fronts are my jeans. I’ve always loved the roominess in pleated trousers and the way a cuff continues the line of the pleat visually. Since there’s more material, they seem to drape better than flat fronts. So far I’ve kept the same look for 40 years with no regrets.

  25. In the 80’s and 90’s trouser knees and thighs were often cut too tight, and the rise too short. Also, the break puddled heavily around the ankle. The creases at the crotch when wearing braces was caused by attempting to wear the waistband at the true waist, without enough rise, destroying the clean downward line. The pleats need to drape, like Greek sculpture: something most suit makers couldn’t get right. I fit customers in Brioni, Lou Myles, Canali, et al., and was a fashion coordinator with Tom James. I was a very frustrated fitter, always going outside the designer’s recommendations so I could get the client’s pleats right. For these reasons, I’ve never been satisfied with off-the-rack, besides getting lucky at a vintage wear shoppe. By the way: pleats on skinny people? Ask Fred Astaire what he thinks. Approached occasionally by a client’s wife, asserting that maybe I wore my trousers too high (on my true waist). I would answer “I wear trousers in the same way that Cary Grant did”, and they would sit back down, re-thinking their precept: that all pants should fit like jeans. Converted many. Thanks Cary Grant.

  26. I was curious if someone could leave insight on my suit. It’s a dark charcoal grey with a burgundy shirt with a navy tie and pocket square. I tend to wear grey boots with black socks as well.

    1. Shawn, those colors do work together, but I’m not a fan of dark shirts with ties. Your approach seems something a younger man in his early 20s would wear, and it’s fashion centered, which is fine, if that’s what you want to do. A more traditional/classic style might be to wear a white shirt with a thin burgundy stripe or grid. Shoes would be black dress oxfords or, more casually, derbys.

  27. Thanks a lot for another insightfulf article.

    I am personally divided towards pleats. On one hand, I do appreciate the comfort they offer, on the other hand, I’ve come to find that flatfront pleats look better in my book.

    What I can surely confirm is, however, that men with weight around one’s middle, as you put it, definitely can profit from pleats. This is not only true for the quite large demographic of men with larger bellys, but also for the often overlooked one of transgender-men with their often large than average hips.

  28. I’ve never stopped wearing pleats, especially in chinos. I consider the flow to be classic and complimentary.

    Also, I love your emails. Always fascinating.

  29. Wow – I go away for a few days and never thought my response would elicit such a stir…!?! – But am still glad I posed the Q … I also see now by the numerous and varied responses, that it seems the jury is still out regarding the matter… Also want to reiterate that when I was commenting on ‘pleats’ before (above) – I did say I’m not talking “Miami Vice baggy type pleats” here… I’m asking about a very refined, single/double narrow pleat (typically a golf pant/slack or tux) and stated my reasons why… Note to the “Dr.” – I have no idea where the prior article is now as I thought you all wrote ALL your own material and suggestions here? So, am a little surprised to learn about that (hey – whatever works to keep your sites going – but know you all rank high for your opinions and allot of men do come here often for fashion advice) – I live 6 months of the year in Europe (London mostly) and then 6 months in the USA and the styles from your nose to your toes couldn’t be more different – I find America runs about 12-18 months behind the EU/UK when it comes to men’s fashion – Haven’t a clue about the women’s items… but my point is, they’re “layer happy” over there due to the short summers and cold, harsh and damp winters… and wool rules the day… Whereas I recall moving from Chicago to LAX and having to dump all my $2K+ winter wool suits in lieu of SoCal summer wools and linen suits (love the look of linen – but what a bugger to travel with and wear) – Either way, I suppose it all boils down to the region you live in, what is required of you at work and what works best for your bod…? I’m still not sure if we have an ‘official’ stance or consensus on pleats? But am happy to see that I’m not alone in my preference for them over a ‘straight cut’ that my body style struggles with… I think 85% of the responses here are pro-pleat outside of the few who think we’re talking Miami Vice 80’s days, as that’s not what we’re talking about here… There’s also a cost issue to be factored into pleats and when cuffing a suit or slacks – Dropping $200-$2000 on either, just to be told “pleats are out” or not to cuff them – that drives me nuts… I can afford swapping ties and shirts as widths and collar styles change – but think a stronger stance or article needs to explore or explain what truly is acceptable these days when it comes to pleats? (ironically, I see a lot more women and their business ‘suits’ wearing pleats now too?) – but again, have no clue as to the correlation as to their styles vs. ours… Us guys hate change (unnecessary constant change, not ‘healthy change’) so some clarity on this, or a firm “do and don’t” type list would be appreciated. Thanks.

    I know I tend to dump allot of info in one load – My apologies – But see my sock Q went unanswered – I just really like ALLOT of what I see on here (be it videos or photos in your articles) – yet you all push just one brand or ones I’m unfamiliar with and can’t locate them anywhere else? (in fact, I can’t even find the mfg website for the socks at all anywhere?) – that’s the only reason I asked if you all were an affiliate for them or had a hand in their business somehow and where we can see their goods in real life to try on or to match with suits, shirts and ties etc?

    Okay – after spending more time reading “Page 1” about the site and Ft. Belvedere, I think I’m understanding the correlation a bit better now… Interesting marketing approach you’ve taken here – and must admit it works. Sell us on the rules, ideas and styles, and then offer them up for sale under your own private brand – or at least I think that’s the way it is? This explains why I couldn’t locate them anywhere else outside of your own website … Either way, I tip my new Irish wool cap (bought based on your suggestions and recommendations) to you :)

    Cheers –

    BB

  30. Wow, I wasn’t aware of pleats being out of style; until my wife commented as I was about to walk out the door… I’ll have to take inventory when I get back home…?
    Thanks for the informative article!

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