Should You Wear a Jacket Without a Tie?

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It’s a popular question that we get asked all the time; it’s probably because you see a lot of men wearing it yet it goes against traditional style rules. We’ll answer this question once and for all definitively, should you wear a jacket without a tie?

Can You Wear A Jacket Without A Tie?

Hell yes! In this day and age, you can wear whatever you want and no one can hinder you. Of course, if you know us, the long answer is it depends.

Why? Because historically, men would not wear a jacket without a tie. Also, keep in mind that just because you can wear whatever you want, doesn’t mean that it’s always advantageous to wear it and so it’s always good to have the right purpose for when you dress.

A tieless Barack Obama
A tieless Barack Obama [Image Credit: Brookings]

For example, just look at previous presidents Barack Obama or George Bush; they would often be seen wearing a suit with a dress shirt but without a tie. Now, they did that purposefully because they wanted to seem more approachable to the common man and at the same time, be presidential. For most other people, this is a no-go because the business suit is simply too formal to be worn without a tie. That being said, if you dress on purpose and you know what you’re doing, it’s good.

Personally, I break the rules from time to time. Wearing a jacket without a tie is not one of them, at least not very often. But I’ll explain to you when I wear a jacket without a tie and why I usually always have a tie.

Traditional Style Rules For Wearing A Jacket Without A Tie

Patterned sport coat with denim shirt
Patterned sport coat with a denim shirt

1. You can go tieless with very casual and heavily patterned jackets.

It could be also made out of a different material such as linen, cotton, or a blend and they’re just predestined because they’re by definition, more casual and relaxed. Wearing a jacket without a tie is relaxed too and because of that, they go well together.

I see a lot of men wearing orphaned suit jackets that are basically part of a dark business suit but then paired without a tie, it simply looks odd. A tie or a bow tie or maybe even an ascot adds a visual interest in your triangle below your face. If you wear a casual combination such as a sport coat with a pattern as well as a dark blue denim shirt, it also creates some visual contrast and it still highlights your face. So these are combinations where you can really forego the tie.

If your jacket is heavily patterned you can skip the tie
If your jacket is heavily patterned you can skip the tie

In terms of patterns, it includes houndstooth or pepita patterns, maybe a larger Prince of Wales check and even a smaller one, if you have bolder colors in your jacket that’s all a good indicator that it can be worn without a tie. At the same time, if you have a jacket that has stripes in it, be it rope stripes, pinstripes or chalk stripes, that always requires some form of neckwear.

Never skip the tie for striped jackets
Never skip the tie for striped jackets

That being said, never wear a striped jacket without a matching pair of pants because it will immediately look like an orphaned suit jacket which is not very flattering. Also, a pinstripe suit, for example, is quite formal so pairing it with denim or chinos makes it look quite weird. Of course, if you have a coarser linen jacket in a solid color, that can also be worn without a tie because the material makes it casual. So you always have to take everything into consideration.

As a general rule, if you have peak lapels on your jacket, you should always wear it with a tie because peak lapels are always more formal than notch lapels.

A white shirt without a tie is not a good look
A white shirt without a tie is not a good look (Pocket Square: Burnt Orange Silk Pocket Square with Dotted Motifs and Paisley – Fort Belvedere)

2. You can wear a jacket without a tie when the ensemble is rather casual.

Let’s say you’re wearing worn-out boat shoes maybe with some chinos and a jacket, in that case, it would look odd to have a tie because a tie is more formal and the other end is quite informal and you want to avoid those clashes.

At the same time if you, for example, have loafers, a pair of chinos, a dress shirt and a blazer you can definitely wear a tie with that because it’s a little dressier.

Black shoes are wrong for this ensemble
Black shoes are wrong for this ensemble

One combination that I see men wear a lot is a blazer with denim. In that case, denim is quite informal and so I suggest you skip the tie. That being said, don’t wear black shoes with your outfit because black shoes are more formal, denim is informal, a blazer is somewhat in between. If you then wear a white shirt without a tie, everything looks off in terms of formality and it’s just not a pleasing look.

3. You can skip the tie when you’re at a moment’s notice.

Let’s say you’re at the office and you just quickly learn that a customer came in and you have a jacket hanging there. Yes, put on a jacket. It’s more formal than if you had no jacket at all and it’s okay to skip the tie in that particular situation. But ideally, you just have a tie somewhere that you can put on when you’re required to.

It is a good idea to have any form of neckwear handy for unexpected events
It is a good idea to have any form of neckwear handy for unexpected events (Boutonniere: Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere)

4. You go to a party and you are unsure of the dress code.

In that case, it might make sense to have a little bow tie tucked away or a regular tie, maybe in the car, so you can quickly put it on. Alternatively, you can maybe even forego the jacket because if you’re the only person there in a jacket and everyone else is in a Hawaiian shirt, it makes you look really weird.

Always keep in mind that a piece of neckwear such as a tie formalizes your outfit and so taking off your jacket but keeping on your tie makes you look like a little flower boy at a wedding and it’s not a look you want to go for. That being said, it takes five seconds to take off a tie.

A stained tie is not a great sight
A stained tie is not a great sight

5. You actually stain your tie.

It happened to me before, I stained my tie during lunch. It just looked odd so I just took it off and it creates an overall better look than having a tie that is stained.

A casual dress shirt
A casual dress shirt

6. You can forego the tie if your shirt is quite casual.

By that, I mean you have a summer shirt and of a linen blend maybe in a pink, orange or yellow tone. Alternatively, it could be a shirt with checks in multiple colors. Also, the style of the collar has an impact on it. For example, a button-down collar is more casual and can be worn open very easily without a tie. Also, there are shirt collars that are tailored to be worn without a tie and open and obviously, you should not put a tie on those either.

As a general rule, the more casual your shirt is, the better it is to be worn without a tie. Of course, other factors such as accessories in your jacket come into play as well but just looking at the shirt, that’s the rule.

Avoid loud boutonnieres and pocket squares
Avoid loud boutonnieres and pocket squares (Boutonniere: Tuxedo Red Carnation Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere)

Few Things To Keep In Mind If You Go Tieless

Always wear either a pocket square or a boutonniere and you can even pull off both. You need something in your chest pocket that creates a visual element of interest at the same time, it makes your overall appearance look a lot more polished.

If you want to wear a boutonniere as well as a pocket square without a tie, they have to really work well together and balance each other out. By that I mean, choose a flower that’s very small and unassuming such as a small blue boutonniere.

You want to avoid bright boutonniere and pockets square colors because otherwise, it’s too flashy. Also, consider the size of your lapel, if you have a very skinny lapel, I’d probably skip the boutonniere. If it’s medium to wide, you can add one but always avoid a large boutonniere in bright colors with a pocket square because it looks just odd without a tie.

When Should You Not Skip The Necktie?

Alright now that you know when you can skip the tie, let’s talk about the occasions when your jacket always requires one.

Faint stripe suit dotted tie and white linen pocket square
Faint stripe suit dotted tie and white linen pocket square
White Initial Pocket Square - Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Fort Belvedere

White Initial Pocket Square – Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots

1. Whenever You Wear A Suit

You need a tie whenever you wear a suit which means you wear a matching pair of pants and a jacket. A suit is generally quite formal especially when it’s a darker business suit. There may be exceptions to that, for example, if you have a tobacco brown linen suit and in that case, you might forego the tie but as a general rule, if you wear a suit, a tie is always the best choice.

The reason is that the tie is a visual focal point that ties the outfit together. Frankly, I made this mistake once when I applied for law school. I wore a dark navy single-breasted business suit with a red silk pocket square, a white shirt and without a tie. I thought I didn’t want to be too formal and skipped the tie but looking back, I should have just chosen a different outfit altogether. At the end of the day, if you wear a suit, you show that you respect traditional clothes rules and because of that you should wear it properly with some neckwear.

Preston's overall business casual ensemble.
A perfect outfit for a casual Friday at the office – do not miss the tie

2. If You Incorporate Traditional Business Colors

Let’s say you have a dark navy blazer with a pair of gray flannel pants, overall, that is a combination which is generally less formal in a suit but it’s a very business appropriate combination and because of that, you should always have a necktie. If you’re not a friend of neckties or you want to be different, you can also try to wear an ascot or maybe a bow tie.

Notice that all men are wearing neckties
Notice that all men are wearing neckties [Image Credit: Pinterest]

3. For Very Formal & Dignified Events

At those events, you never want to look half dressed and at a wedding, some people might forego the tie but at a funeral, you certainly can never forego the tie because it’s a solemn event that you attend because you want to show respect to the deceased as well as the family.

Mercer and Sons Button Down collar with S-curve
Mercer and Sons Button Down collar with S-curve

4. If Your Shirt Collar Is Not Conducive To Being Worn Without A Tie

That’s the case if your collar is too big and would collapse on itself without the stability of the tie or if the shirt collar tips would make their way out on top of the lapel because that’s a very 70’s look that makes it look pretty dated.

Likewise, if you have formal collars with a larger spread, I suggest you go with a tie. At the same time, if you have a button-down collar, for example, they’re more conducive to be worn without a tie.

A definite style don't: a visible undershirt
A definite style don’t: a visible undershirt

5. If Your Undershirt Would Peek Out

Some men love undershirts and that’s fantastic but if your undershirt is really a t-shirt and it peeks out underneath your shirt collar when it’s unbuttoned, it’s simply a no-go and a fashion faux pas.

So you have two options, either you wear a necktie or ascot or you get an undershirt that has a deep cut out so it doesn’t show and that way you can forego the tie.

Matt Letscher as Joe Kennedy and Steve Buscemi as Nucky Thompson in a still from Boardwalk Empire.
Matt Letscher as Joe Kennedy and Steve Buscemi as Nucky Thompson in a still from Boardwalk Empire. [Image Credit: Mr. Porter]

6. When You Have Formal Dress Shirts

What makes dress shirts formal? In a nutshell, if your dress shirt features French cuffs for cufflinks, then it’s formal and should be worn with a tie. If your dress shirt is solid white and has French cuffs, the same is true.

Ralph Lauren Gray Flannel Suit & Blue Winchester Shirt
Ralph Lauren Gray Flannel Suit & Blue Winchester Shirt Image Credit: Pinterest]

7. If You Are Wearing A Winchester Shirt

Last but not least, if you have a Winchester shirt which means you have either a contrasting collar which is usually white or a contrasting collar and shirt cuffs, then that makes it more formal and you should always wear it with a tie.

Outfit Rundown

Sven's casual outfit without a tie.
Sven’s casual outfit without a tie.
Silk Pocket Square in Sunflower Orange with Small and Large Paisley - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Silk Pocket Square in Sunflower Orange with Small and Large Paisley

 I am wearing my jacket without a tie because I chose a casual blue and white checked summer jacket from Gagliardi. I opted for a dark blue denim shirt which is not ironed and therefore quite casual. My slacks are baby blue and provide a visual contrast to my jacket as well as my olive green suede tassel loafers. The belt obviously matches the shoes and my pocket square really stands out because it has this sunflower orange yellow yet it has a little paisley pattern that is larger than my check but it picks up the color of blue from my shirt and from my jacket as well as the green from my shoes and therefore it ties it all well together. For socks, I usually wear over-the-calf styles from Fort Belvedere in this case I went with a prototype for no-show socks which only works during this summer and I just want to see how it feels and whether they stay up because it’s a big issue with no-show socks.

How often do you go without a tie? What are your favorite tieless outfits?

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Reader Comments

  1. Not to be a dweeb, but you may want to run #7 by the proofreader again. Looks like spell-check may have converted collar to color.

    Regards.

  2. I must disagree with the point of not wearing black shoes with jeans and a blazer, which not only disses most of the men who, at one time or another have worn exactly that combo when attending casual functions, such as lunches at country clubs on the East Coast or a matinee performance at the opera or concert hall. The dictum as stated is also too broad to make. There are many types of black shoes that would be considered “casual”, Brooks Brothers black tassel loafers and black Chelsea boots spring to mind. Even black lace-ups, brogues, etc. can look fine with jeans and a blue blazer – and with a blindingly white shirt and pocket square for a crisp look. Wearing brown shoes with such an outfit, except for boat shoes, might be a visual distraction. Brown shoes are fine if the jeans are not dark, not new, or are a bit faded-intentionally. They might also go better with a lighter color blue blazer.

    1. Just because a lot of men wear black shoes with jeans doesn’t make it better or more stylish. I firmly believe that there is a shade of brown or burgundy that is always better than black in these situations.
      Black tassel loafers or chelsea boots can be great with flannel for example, but I do not think they work well with jeans. Of course, everyone can wear what they want, but black shoes are never the best choice.

      1. Rather than set a hard & fast rule about shoe colour for all jeans, one could make a judgment call based on the colour of the jeans. For instance, many shades of brown shoes would be iffy to pair with black denim jeans, and although a deep oxblood leather could certainly work in that scenario, black shoes—say, a nice pair of monkstraps—would also coordinate nicely.

        1. If you want to wear black jeans with black monkstraps, go for it. Of course, one could argue whether black jeans are a good choice in the first place.
          I don’t think so, but even if I wore them, I would not wear them with black shoes.

  3. Summer outfits always go well without a tie. For example, a linem shirt, even a white one goes very well without a tie, especially paired with a light fabric jacket, or blazer. Here in Brasil I use a lot, due to the hot summer we have.

  4. Sven,

    Please do not take this personally but a man with your body type doesn’t look the same in certain clothing as a man who has a more athletic body. Your advice is brilliant most times and your site is my go to when I have a little indecision of a particular outfit or piece of clothing! In fact I had never worn a boutonniere before I began to read your site! I now own and wear dozens! But at 6’4″ 225 lb and athletically built my clothes have a completely different look than a man with more of a pear shape.

    Thank you for all your good advice and have a wonderful weekend!

    Mike

  5. For #6, would it be simpler to simply say if it has French cuffs, it is formal, or is it somehow possible to have French cuffs without cufflinks?

  6. I know you have a subtle disdain for a blazer over a polo shirt, but the look is moderately common at California country clubs (and I suspect elsewhere as well) during summer clubhouse rules, which typically require a jacket in the clubhouse at all times. A tie would be required between Labor Day and Memorial Day. When I was a lad, it was terribly common for mother to wear a dress, father a suit, and the lads would shower-up after tennis and swimming and wear khaki’s, a clean white polo, and blue blazer. Alas, more than a few clubs have become so casual now that jackets aren’t even required during the summer months.

  7. A tie worn with a straight jacket by two men can potentially make a pair of suspenders.

  8. One problem I have encountered, being a 20 year old in the UK, is a tie with a blazer often looks like a school uniform. I know many people with this problem and will only wear a heavily textured or patterned blazer (e.g. Tweed, heavy wool etc) with a tie to avoid looking like a school child.

  9. I find there are times I’ll wear a sport jacket, Oxford collar shirt and chinos without a tie. Most people today are casual to the extent of slovenliness so in today’s scruffy environment even that looks dressy. However usually if I choose to go without either a cravat or bow tie I will wear an ascot, a look I enjoy but for most today is quite exotic.
    As for jeans, I never wear them. Dungarees are appropriate for yard work or other messy, dirty endeavors or with a western outfit otherwise they always just look awful. Of course when one is young wearing almost anything looks pretty good ( but not actually good) but in a mature man jeans look horrific and actually make a man look even older than he is. The worst jeans of course are the popular dirty, worn out looking jeans with holes. These scraps of designer garbage can be quite pricey. Recently I dined at a rather expensive and popular with the Long Island wealthy restaurant. I was horrified seeing successful mature men thinking they look so hip dining in their nasty, ratty t-shirts and tattered jeans. These fools unknowingly were dressed like the crowd chowing down at the homeless shelter.

    1. There is nothing wrong with a man wearing a pair of jeans as long as he has the common sense to wear the right pair. I would never wear a pair of dirty, worn-out looking jeans with holes because they look tacky. For you to say men look awful and horrific in jeans is pure bull. Maybe the reason you never wear them is because they look awful and horrific on you.

  10. The more buttons undone on the shirt, the more casual it is. Wearing a jacket, I would never leave more than the top shirt button undone. Otherwise it looks far too casual in my view. I think a blazer with gold or silver buttons is one of the best choices if you are not wearing a tie, since it has that “nautical” look, where the tie may be dispensed with. I dislike denim shirts except in very casual settings and wearing a tie with them always looks terrible and makes you look like a bogan, as we say in my country.

  11. Greetings,

    I am with Menashe 100%!

    “Dad Jeans” always look wrong, and, especially here on the Left Coast, even nice restaurants with nominal dress codes welcome guests wearing holey denim, cargo shorts, tank tops, and logo t-shirts.

    I had a colleague who would occasionally wear an ascot on “Casual Fridays,” and it always seemed to be a bit effete.

    However, around here, gentlemen in tasteful suits, neckties, dress shirts, and “hard shoes” at met with raised eyebrows by what Bing Crosby called “The Dungaree Set.”

    Sincerely,

    Andrew Gregg,
    Palm Springs, CA

  12. I do not want you to think I am being critical,however I have never seen such poor fitting clothing in my life on many of the pictures you showed about tie or no tie.
    To me, a tie should be worn with a suit but no tie is great with a FANTASTIC SPORT COAT and odd trousers.
    Personally some of the ideas you come up with amaze me.
    Taste is certainly an individual choice but there are lots of people who truly do not know how to put it all together.
    There are very few left in our industry that treat this as a way of life.It’s a job to most and that is very sad to see this happening.

    Briggs Doherty

  13. These days I see a lot of men without tie, but with pocket squares. It is a little bit strange for me.

  14. Personally, I don’t care for that sport coat and jeans deal, but then I am 71 years old. it may be okay for a young man, but “only okay”, in my opinion. For anyone over forty, it is trying far to hard to be “hip”.

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