Style Guide For The Slim Man

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In today’s world, many people are trying to lose weight either for their health or just for their own image. Here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, we believe that as long as a man is following the general principles of style, in addition to feeling healthy and following his doctor’s advice, carrying around a few extra pounds is nothing to be ashamed of.

With that said, there’s also a group of men out there at the opposite end of the spectrum. Thin men who may be looking to find ways to increase their physical presence. Whether or not you’re actually looking to bulk up though, cutting a masculine figure does have benefits.

Our subconscious sees fitness as an indicator of health and we are always looking for signs of strength in potential romantic partners, co-workers, or even friends. With all that in mind, here are some tips from one slim man to another on how to dress well in order to look healthy and masculine.

Dressing Guidelines For The Slim Man

Make sure to avoid baggy clothing
Make sure to avoid baggy clothing [Image Credit: GQ]

1. Avoid Wearing Clothing That Makes You Look Frail

Many thin men often try to disguise their frames by wearing clothing that’s too large for them thinking that the extra fabric is going to make them look bigger, however, in reality, the opposite is actually true. At the same time, however, thin men should also stay clear of super skinny or skin-tight styles because these two are just going to draw attention to your thin frame.

Skinny pants make your leg look like sticks
Skinny pants make your leg look like sticks [Image Credit: GQ]

What’s the solution then? Simply put, you just have to find clothing that’s going to fit you just right. If they fit properly, your clothes should drape naturally over your body, fitting closely but at the same time not feeling tight or pulling anywhere and also not so loose that they’re baggy or billowing. As such, you’ll definitely benefit in the long run from forming a good relationship with a tailor as you’re probably going to need to take all kinds of different garments in for one type of alteration or another in order to achieve that ideal fit.

Proper shoulder width of a jacket
Proper shoulder width of a jacket (Knit Tie: Knit Tie in Solid Rust Orange Silk – Fort Belvedere)

In particular, pay close attention to your shoulders and your sleeves. The shoulder seam of your shirt should sit right at your shoulder’s edge. If it’s up too high, the shirt’s going to look too small on you and if it’s down too low, your shoulders are going to look like they’re drooping. If the seam sits right at the shoulder edge, it’s going to properly frame your shoulders and your chest. Similarly, your sleeves should be just wide enough so that your arms can fit comfortably inside of them. If they’re too tight, you’re going to have unsightly wrinkling all around your arms and if they’re too loose, they’re just going to look like you’re wearing a pirate shirt.

The same general principle is also true for your legs. Wearing skinny jeans or pants with a tight tapered fit in things like khakis, chinos, and so forth will just make your legs look like spindly sticks and that won’t flatter you at all.

Striped green and white dress shirt with micropattern tie from Fort Belvedere
Striped green and white dress shirt with a micropattern tie from Fort Belvedere

2. Wear Colors & Patterns That Boost Your Visual Heft

As a general rule, lighter colors like white, beige, or pastels are going to make you appear a little bit larger, overall. Just as darker colors and the quintessential black are said to be slimming, the opposite effect is true for lighter clothing. Meanwhile, wearing patterns will create a sense of movement in your outfit and will also make you seem larger. When we observe a busy pattern, it does take a moment for our brain to be able to explain to our eyes what it is that we’re seeing. That split second of communication means that if you’re wearing a busy pattern, people will have to take a second and that will make you look larger.

Checked Tweed in Green with flap pockets
Checked Tweed in Green with Fort Belvedere accessories
Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk

Fort Belvedere

Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk

Light Purple Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Light Purple Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

With regard to specific patterns, horizontal stripes are of course, the classic choice for broadening the frame whereas vertical stripes will make you look taller and thinner, overall. This isn’t to say however that vertical stripes should be completely forbidden from the wardrobe of a slim man. You should just be mindful of the overall effect that you’re trying to achieve. Also, checks and other grid patterns are other good choices for broadening your frame.

Black, blue, and white checked dress shirt
Black, blue, and white checked dress shirt

In general though, the smaller the scale of the pattern, the more it’s going to increase your perceived heft. For example, wearing a fine graph check shirt would be a good choice if that’s what you’re going for.

This sweater vest is perfect for layering or wearing under a blazer
This sweater vest is perfect for layering or wearing under a blazer [Image Credit: Poshmark]

3. Layering Is Key

With each additional layer you put on, you’re going to be adding a bit more bulk. One layer on its own might not necessarily make a difference but if you’re wearing multiple layers in conjunction, you’ll be able to build up your frame a little bit more. Rather than simply piling on a bunch of sweaters, however, you’ll want to approach your layering a little bit more strategically.

Start with the lightest weight fabrics closest to your body and as you move outward, each subsequent layer can be more sturdy. Also, textured weaves like tweed, flannel, denim, or corduroy give more perceived heft than do smoother weave fabrics.

Returning to the concept of patterns for a moment, this same concept of working inward to outward should apply to patterns as well. For example, the pattern on your shirt, if it has one, should be less abrasive than the pattern that’s featured on your jacket or tie.

Aleks Cvetkovics with denim shirt on top of a turtleneck sweater
Aleks Cvetkovic with denim shirt on top of a turtleneck sweater

4. Find Ways To Make Your Neck Look Larger

Turtleneck sweaters are the classic choice to create this effect but you also do have other options. For example, you could have a zip neck, a stand collar, or a shawl collar on a sweater in particular. Also, simply wearing a dress shirt with a sturdy collar assisted further by the aid of collar stays is a good way to minimize the appearance of your neck because the pattern of the shirt will be carried upward a little bit by the verticality of the collar.

Considerations For Specific Garments

A great fitting shirt will allow you to move around without getting untucked
A great fitting shirt will allow you to move around without getting untucked (Knit Tie: Knit Tie in Solid Red Silk – Fort Belvedere)

1. Shirts

T-shirts, polos, dress shirts, or any other type of shirt just like any garment in general for the slim man, should fit the body closely without being too tight. As we already mentioned, fit in the shoulders and the sleeves are key. Dress shirts, in particular, should also be long enough that they stay comfortably tucked in throughout the day. If your shirt is creeping out over your waistband throughout the course of the day, that’s a sign that it’s too short.

Very little shoulder padding
Very little shoulder padding
Wool Challis Bow Tie in Burgundy Red with Yellow Polka Dots and Pointed Ends

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Bow Tie in Burgundy Red with Yellow Polka Dots and Pointed Ends

Edelweiss Boutonniere on a white background

Fort Belvedere

Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

2. Jackets

Suit jackets, sport coats, and blazers are all designed with the goal of accentuating the features of the male form making the man look more muscular. They achieve this in a variety of ways when it comes to the details of their styling. One way that a jacket does this is by broadening your shoulders.

Many jackets, though not all, depending on the style will have a bit of padding in the shoulder that makes it look more full and also more angular. Optimal shoulder padding for a jacket is subtle, however, adding only about a half inch of height at the very most. Anything more than that and your shoulders are going to look unnaturally angular almost like you put your jacket on with the hangers still in it.

flattering v shape front
flattering v shape front
Knit Tie in Solid Rust Orange Silk - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Knit Tie in Solid Rust Orange Silk

Orange, Green, Blue, Yellow, Silk Wool Medallion Pocket Square

Fort Belvedere

Orange, Green, Blue, Yellow, Silk Wool Medallion Pocket Square

In addition to making you look wider at the shoulders, a proper, meaning a close-fitting jacket will also taper as it moves down toward your waist creating a natural V shape. This V shape is a universal sign of male strength and it should also be echoed even further by related shapes that are created by your lapels, as well as your shirt collar.

Most jackets that you buy off the rack are probably going to require some sort of alterations tailoring. We suggest you start with the ever-versatile two-button single-breasted model, though if you want to experiment with a double-breasted jacket, you can still wear one of those and have it flatter your form too. We would suggest something perhaps with a six on two button configuration.

proper jacket length
proper jacket length

The length of your jacket should hit just at the bottom of your seat offering you the neatest appearance possible. If it’s any longer than that, it’s generally going to look like the jacket is too big for you. You can choose either notched or peak lapels based on your own personal preference but whatever you go with, we recommend that they be at a width of about three inches which is just a hair narrower than the standard lapel width of about 3 and ⅛ inches.

3. Trousers

You should try to find something in the middle usually that will be labeled, fittingly enough, as slim. You can wear your trousers either at your natural waist which we recommend or a little bit lower depending on your own personal preference as well as your actual height.

Navy pants with inward pleats worn with suspenders for a smooth look
Navy pants with inward pleats worn with suspenders for a smooth look

If you’re a shorter man, you can wear your trousers a bit higher to make you seem taller and if you are tall and slim, you can wear them just a little bit lower because you don’t really need any help looking tall. Style-wise, you can opt for side fasteners, belt loops, or suspenders, though if you do wear suspenders, also called braces, we would recommend that you do keep them under another layer and don’t wear them visibly. The strong verticality of these suspenders is just going to make you look thinner overall which isn’t necessarily something you’ll want.

Here’s a tip when it comes to buying, most retailers are only going to describe the measurements of a pair of trousers using just two numbers which refer to the waist size and the inseam length. These two numbers, however, don’t really give you any idea of how wide the pants are around each individual leg or what the drop height is from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the crotch. As such, the best way to figure out how well a pair of pants fits you is simply to try it on. If the trouser fabric is heavy enough to fall smoothly, a little bit of looseness in the lower legs doesn’t have to be shied away from but at the same time, you don’t want to go too far with this or you’ll risk looking like you’re wearing bell-bottoms or simply wearing pants that have way too much fabric at the bottom.

Good length for cuffed trousers
Good length for cuffed trousers

When it comes to trousers with pleats, commonly accepted wisdom is that thin men should avoid them altogether because of the extra verticality that’s provided by those lines, however, this doesn’t have to be an absolute rule. Trouser cuffs can also add some additional visual weight as well as providing a slight horizontal line around your ankles. If you are fortunate enough to have many of your garments custom-made for you, you can go ahead and make these cuffs on your trousers a little bit wider.

More casual pants can have their pockets slanted forward slightly to break up some of that verticality. Also on the topic of pockets, try to avoid filling them up with piles of stuff, this is a surefire way to make your thighs look unsightly bulky or even lumpy, that’s not an effect you’re going for.

4. Neckties & Other Accessories

Depending on your own personal preference, a necktie with the width of about two and three-quarters to three and ½ inches is going to look good on a slim frame. Just remember that the overall width of your necktie should be relatively in sync with the width of your jacket’s lapel so that everything is harmonious overall.

Alternatively, knit ties are often only about two inches wide but their added texture and bulk will add some heft to your frame as we discussed previously in our general overview. Anything narrower than two inches into the realm of super skinny ties won’t do you any favors. Instead, these really slim ties are just going to echo the slimness of your overall frame.

Finally, whether you’re wearing a long tie or a bow tie, consider something with an engaging and inviting visual pattern as this extra visual element will draw attention away from your frame.

Fortunately for the slim man, he’s got a good bit of latitude in what kinds of accessories he can wear that will add bulk to his frame without looking outlandish. Take, for example, a well-puffed pocket square in an inviting pattern. This will work similarly to the patterned tie that we just discussed and that it will draw eyes away from the slimness of your frame.

What you want to avoid in a belt
What you want to avoid in a belt

Proportion is just as important here as anywhere of course and there is a point where an accessory will become too large making you just look like a clown. For example, overly broad belts and large belt buckles aren’t going to do a slim man any favors. For a slim man, you’re simply going to be better suited wearing a moderately sized belt with a conservative belt buckle.

Penny Loafers
Penny Loafers

5. Shoes

Go for something understated and on the slim side rather than something more utilitarian and chunky. Loafers are going to be a good bet for you as is anything from an Italian manufacturer as their styles are typically slimmer than some parts elsewhere around the world.

CONCLUSION

You don’t have to be muscular or physically imposing to project a masculine image. Simply by knowing what types of garments fit your body and flatter you, you can look confident as well as stylish all the time.

Outfit Rundown

Preston wearing a casual outfit which fits perfectly in his slim figure.
Preston wearing a casual outfit that fits perfectly with his slim figure.
Light Blue & Midnight Blue Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue & Midnight Blue Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

My shirt is slim fitting and it’s in a small micro check pattern of light blue and grey on a white background. It’s worn under a thick cable knit quarter zip sweater in a light beige color, both the thickness of the knit as well as the color are techniques that we recommended to increase your visual heft. My pants are darker brown but still communicating with the beige sweater and are also in a moderately slim fit. My socks are light blue which echoes the colors in the shirt and my shoes are my dark oxblood penny loafers which you’ve seen before. I wore them because they’re small and slim rather than large and chunky which is another tip we gave you. I’m not really wearing any accessories today and my shirt even has simple barrel cuffs which help underneath the sweater. Overall, I just thought I’d wear something casual and breezy but that illustrated the principles of dressing well as a slim man.

So if you’re a slim man, what style tips do you have that we might not have mentioned? If you have any, feel free to share with us in the comments section below!

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Reader Comments

  1. Regarding short sleeved shirts, the current style – especially with polos – is for shorter sleeves than the traditional polo. This look can be unflattering on a thin frame. Even some polos labelled “traditional fit” are trimmer than before, though I believe this is a cost-cutting measure by the manufacturers. I recommend trying a shirt on before buying. many golf style shirts are superbly tailored and retain a traditional fit.

  2. Thank you for an informative article. I do would like to point out that while Raphael always looks sharp he is for the sake of this articles subject a difficult example to relate to.

  3. Editing. First time I’ve seen this (viewed 100s of your vids) from 8:46 to 8:57 the vid is projected at a 90 degree angle with Rafael’s head pointing to the right of the screen. Woops!

  4. What a superb subject matter indeed. Excellent choice Sven. **Btw, would love to chat Sven** … you have my personal contact, etc … Preston, another well delivered performance. Bravo young man!
    Thoroughly enjoyed this particular subject area, as there are very few features concerning this area of ‘body structure’ and fashion in great detail for us Gentlemen. I am an ex-National Collegiate Athletic Champion, still with broad shoulders, but, a slim waist, muscular glutes, but athletic slender legs and slim calf muscles.
    We Are Just “Loving the 8:46 to 8:57 segment” in the Video and that “Good ‘Oldey-Worldy’ horizontal, climbing up the walls, angular trick shot look” attempting to appear slimmer (wink) … (A Classic *lol*!! … from probably watching too many infamous ‘Jamiroquai’ music videos, wink!) … well men, you certainly can’t say that ‘our Sven’ doesn’t resemble (there) as if he’s been indulging in “slightly too many Fine Wines being paired with his finest cut Filet Mignon’s, followed by those after dinner Aperitifs and an excellent Scotch, whilst ‘sucking on’ a big fat Cuban Cigar (i.e. ‘The’ 0:42 to 0:45 mins “Porky man ‘Baby Bump’ Look … Whoaah(!), your Tailor is going to love you Sven old chap in the next few years, if you don’t watch out ‘Soon’!! … your Cardiologist and Lipidologist Consultants are not though. Time to hit the gym ‘Now’ Sven (and try to keep on top of any unwanted gains in those certain areas, before they all become irreversible. You don’t want have been working hard all your adult life Sven to have ‘developed your excellent Dapper Look’ only to need ‘Buckets Full of Liposuction’ to keep on top of that ever expanding waistline!! Eh?!
    Seriously here mate, we all care about you Sven and “prevention is always better than after-care” especially as your metabolism is about to change even more with age, major hormonal changes, etc … and the list goes on!! Therefore, how about any other supporters of this wonderful channel, with friends and associates, sponsor you Sven to lose an inch here and there in all the right places for a ‘worthy charity’ and you video-document the whole journey of “staying Younger, More Dapper and Healthier” for all the young children in America, the UK, various other Dapper Cultures and anywhere else where our ‘ever so slightly diminishing style-conscious’ and proud to keep the tradition of the “Dress to Impress and improve our ‘overall outer and more importantly, inner beings’ and development, as All Conscientious Gentlemen should”.
    Another comment to add to this subject matter, is study some (virtually, immediately after) ‘post-Second World War European Fashion Icons’ and styles, as food was still rationed and we had shortages over here in Europe, especially in the UK, well into the 1950s. However, there were a few adaptations of the 1930s/1940s fine British ‘country-style’ looks with business attire of the more affluent catering for thinner frames and a change in body shapes.
    For the younger readers here, the more affluent still wanted to maintain “standards” (even ameliorate them) although material and importing material (from around the World) had taken a major financial ‘hit’ from Merchant Shipping being decimated by the “war effort” and the Nazis. This led to an increase in the North of England “Clothing Mills” making some of the, then, finest hand-made and developed garments of all descriptions, some of which are still in excellent condition today. The fact that so many people, back then, were still in uniform influenced fashion, there was still a trend for military-style narrow and smart suits. Despite “battlefield chic” becoming financially viable, do not imagine that Gentlemen still dressed in khaki. It is often assumed that it was drab time. Yet, men used bright colors and patterns, partly as a way of “putting on a brave face and cheering oneself up, due to tough after-War financial necessity.”
    Wartime designers, such as Hardy Amies and Mayfair couturier Peter Russell, were enlisted by the British government to create clothes which complied with austerity regulations, yet still looked desirable and newly fashionable. They and eight other leading designers became members of the “Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers” after launching their utility collection, often for the ‘Predominantly Smaller Framed (from a lower calorific diet only being available … food rationing still continuing up until the mid-1950s!!) Gentleman’.
    With families being reminded to plan clothes purchases carefully and avoid frivolous choices, utilizing ones own clothes with more imagination and flair was both cheaper and required fewer ration coupons, while the lost art of “darning” was revived. Despite material rationing and low incomes, people were urged “Not to let ‘Standards’ slip” as it was constantly predicted of how a resulting lowering of morale would follow.
    Hence, the expression of “dressing up for ‘Feel-Good factor” becoming more prevalent by one dressing as well as incomes and imagination would allow. Many families learned how to self-alter, or if finances allowed, British tailors would invariably re-configure suits from fitting Fathers, to now growing Sons. One was encouraged to feel “The British Pride” in how one appeared, so caring about one’s clothes (and not throwing any away) was encouraged.
    With Saturday afternoon dances still continuing after the War and large numbers of American military personnel being still stationed in heavy numbers all over Europe after the ‘official end of World War Two’ (the threat of the ‘Cold War’ now looming) the friendly rivalry with “dress to impress” kept Gentleman’s fashion and clothing styles impeccable.
    As discussed earlier, another impact of Post War material rationing improved the quality, especially the fabrics of British-made clothes for Gentlemen of the slightly smaller build (due, again, mainly to lower calorific food intake) being readily available, therefore clothing was ‘Made-to-Last’ for “as Long As Possible, with superior design specifications keeping production more efficient”.
    (Even the Current British Queen, the then, Princess Elizabeth…and Prince Phillip, the Duke of Edinburgh…were both subject to the same clothes rationing and restrictions as all British citizens … even on her Wedding Day, when tying “The Royal Matrimonial Knot” in November 1947. The Royal couple was ‘forced to save coupons’ for the material … especially for Princess Elizabeth’s ‘satin wedding dress, designed by Norman Hartnell, although some ‘special’ sanctions were ‘not enforced’ pertaining to certain historical Royal procedure and tradition.
    British fashion flourished in the post-war era and by the late 1940s there was also public demand for a more casual, yet affluent looking ensemble of attires. Such insistence in maintaining “high standards” was said to have led to inspiring some female designs by Christian Dior and his “New Look” for women featuring the use of yards of fabric. With maintaining high standards and material together with high levels of design, especially for slimmer men, inspired a whole plethora of innovation and dynamism.
    One only has to then look at the Men’s (circa) 1960s “Mod Style Era” originally designed with a smaller, slimmer Gentleman, coming to the ‘forefront of British and European fashion’, to see how even the Finest 100% Tweed Wool and ‘windowpane’ styles, also incorporating Donegal Fleck Tweed, Herringbone, Glen Check, POW Check and the “Perfect for The More Dandy Mod” Classic Mohair Wool slim mod cut, benefiting from slender retro notch lapels, in particular, just as examples, were intertwined into other ‘cuts’ of Mod Style Suits. Blending that country heritage look with a style and cut associated with classic British 60s mod, broader shouldered yet slimmer waist, tailored attire accompanied the “British Invasion” look into America over those next few years … even right up into the 70s … always with the smaller framed, less muscular male, at the forefront of the highly fashionable European influenced Gentleman’s Couture.
    Staying slim, especially around the mid-section, can therefore enable you to continue to incorporate a multitude of various mellifluous sounding styles of your choice and always conflate influences from the vast array of eras and genres, and as a Gentlemen constitutes being “Mirabile Dictu” … something we should all strive to constantly aim for.

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