Men’s Dress Shirt Guide – Fit, Collar, Cuffs & Details

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The Dress Shirt is a Foundation of Your Outfit

Dress shirts are one of the most ubiquitous and important articles in menswear. They provide a central point of interest around which the rest of your outfit is built and also play an important role in framing your physical appearance and contributing to your physical comfort.

Therefore, it is critically important that you find a dress shirt that complements your personal style, body, and wardrobe. There are, however, a shocking number of styling options for men’s dress shirts. On the one hand, this reality should enable every man to find a great fit and style that works for his needs, but on the other, it can be daunting to wade through all the details.

You need not worry, however, because this guide will provide you with all of the information that you need to not only select a dress shirt that looks and feels great but to also build a collection of dress shirts that will be the perfect focal points for countless stylish outfits.

What a Dress Shirt Is

At its most fundamental level, a dress shirt, also known as a day buttoned shirt, is a garment that features a collar and full-length opening fastened with buttons or studs.

Traditionally, this shirt was effectively an undergarment, always being worn beneath a waistcoat and jacket. Nowadays, dress shirts can be worn without additional garments, although within the Classic Style, it is still conventional to see dress shirts usually paired with jackets.

Different Dress Shirts Serve Different Functions

Because dress shirts are available in a wide variety of styles, colors, and cuts, they can vary greatly as regards the situations or occasions for which they are appropriate. A pink and white striped dress shirt might be the perfect complement to a summer suit while on vacation in Italy, but it would not be appropriate in a professional office setting, like a law firm.

Certain dress shirts and dress shirt features can even be expressly reserved for very particular shirt occasions and dress codes. Two obvious examples are the Black-Tie Evening Shirt and the White-Tie Evening Shirt, which are sometimes, confusingly enough, referred to as “Full-Dress” shirts.

A mannequin dressed in typical Black Tie attire

What Makes a …

Black-Tie Shirt

  • Also called a “Tuxedo” or “Smoking” Shirt
  • Constructed of white cotton in a solid or micropattern
  • Soft turndown collar with a classic spread
  • Pleated or pique front bib
  • Soft french cuffs
Wing Collar, Single-End Bow Tie, Marcella White Tie Shirt, and Waistcoat with boutonniere, pocket square, and top hat

What makes a …

White-Tie Shirt

  • Constructed of white cotton, usually broadcloth or voile
  • Detachable stiff wing collar
  • Stiff single cuffs
  • Cotton pique, plain cotton, or linen stiff bib front

Assessing Dress Shirt Formality

Dress Codes Formality Scale infographic
Dress Codes Formality Scale

Dress shirts can range in formality from the very casual to the extremely formal. In general, how casual or formal a dress shirt is depends upon the cumulative total of the relative formality of its parts.

Said another way, the inclusion of certain features that are either very formal or very casual can skew the overall formality of the entire shirt. All of the major features of a dress shirt will be discussed in the following guide, with information about the relative formality of these features. With this information, you will be able to determine, by looking at the shirt as a whole, how casual or formal it is.

Character Roberty Crawley in Black Tie

“I’m so sorry, Thomas has lost all of my dress shirts.”

Robert Crawley in Downton Abbey

For more on this concept, be sure to study our guide to the Formality Scale.

What a Dress Shirt Is Not

There are a great number of shirts in existence, and only some of them qualify as dress shirts. Any shirt that does not satisfy the above definition – a shirt that features a collar and full-length opening fastened with buttons or stands – is not a dress shirt.

Therefore, tee shirts, polo shirts, henley shirts, and the like are not dress shirts.

Conversely, some collared shirts with full-length buttoned openings do not function stylistically as dress shirts, and therefore are not included. These primarily include shirts that would traditionally not be worn with a jacket and were often worn without neckwear.

These include sport shirts, which are essentially very casual dress shirts, and work shirts, which are designed to be functional rather than fashionable garments. These shirts are often distinguished by their materials, which tend to be hardwearing fabrics like denim or flannel.

Determining Your Dress Shirt Size

Most off-the-rack dress shirts are sized according to the circumference of your neck and the length of your arm. These two measurements will often be expressed together, such as 16 & 32, the former being the neck circumference and the latter the length of the arm.

A pair of hands measuring a mannequin's neck size with a cloth tape measure
A basic tape measure will be the only tool you need to find your neck size, but it is easier to do if you find someone to help measure you.

Off-the-rack dress shirt makers utilize these measurements because they are the most important measurements to ensure a decent fit for most gentlemen. Additional measurements, such as chest circumference or hem length, are calculated as a ratio of the two provided measurements.

Be wary of any dress shirt maker that employs more generic measuring standards, such as “Small, Medium, and Large” sizing. Arm length and neck size vary greatly from gentleman to gentleman, and it is very unlikely that any dress shirt that does not take at least these measurements into consideration will offer a good fit.

Teresa measuring Raphael's denim dress shirt sleeve length from the middle to the cuffs.
Different brands measure arm length with particular starting and ending points, so always follow the measurement guides laid out by the actual retailer.
Raphael wearing a blue Eton dress shirt and stretching his arms.

Be sure to measure both of your arms!

Few portions of the human anatomy are completely proportional, so your arms will likely be of different lengths. Most gentlemen provide the measurement of the longer of their two arms, as a slightly longer sleeve is usually less noticeable than a slightly shorter sleeve. For made-to-measure shirts, you will have the opportunity to provide the length of each arm individually, ensuring the perfect fit for both arms.

Made-to-Measure and Bespoke Shirts

Raphael being measured for a bespoke shirt
Made-to-measure or bespoke shirts will take more of your measurements into account.

A made-to-measure or bespoke shirt will be speficialy prepared to your exact measurements. Such a shirt will naturally require additional sizing information. In addition to neck size and arm length, you will likely also have to provide chest, waist, and wrist circumference, as well as the length of your shoulders and back.

The inclusion of this information will result in a dress shirt that offers a much better, more tailored fit, but at a proportional increase in overall cost.

Learn more about Bespoke, MTM, & MTO

Understanding the Different Dress Shirt Fits

What “Fit” Means in this Context

In our experience, Spier & Mackay shirts with thicker fabrics have a tighter fit.
A fit can be tighter or looser depending on your preference, comfort, and personal style.

Your measurements provide a baseline for the general sizing of your dress shirt, but there is considerable leeway in how those measurements are used to create the finished dress shirt. This leeway is generally referred to as “fit.”

Consider, for instance, that if a dress shirt sleeve length were cut exactly to the length of your arm, it would sit very tightly against your skin and roll up or down depending on your arm movement. Therefore, tailors add in a certain amount of excess fabric to accommodate movement, as well your personal comfort and overall style.

How much additional fabric is employed is the central component of the conventional fits for a dress shirt, which vary according to styling, comfort, and your own body shape. Arguably fit is the most striking and important feature of a shirt; if your shirt is ill-fitting, none of the details will matter.

Build a relationship with your alterations tailor

An important note on

Alterations

Before getting started, it is important to note that unlike other garments like jackets and trousers, achieving a good fit with a dress shirt is best accomplished by purchasing the right shirt from the outset. Alterations are pricey relative to the cost of a shirt, so if you have fit challenges, it’s best to have your shirts produced made-to-measure or bespoke. These options are far less expensive for shirts, so even men with modest budgets will find a shirt manufacturer in their budget range.

Classic Fit

Sven Raphael’s Ideal Dress Shirt Length
A classic fit shirt.

The classic fit is likely what your father and grandfather wore. It is characterized by a traditional tailoring silhouette, allowing a comfortable fit with a boxier shape, with plenty of fabric in the sleeves and the body. It provides great mobility and features two pleats on the back, usually located near the yoke.

Since men in the mid-20th century would never wear a shirt without a jacket, or even a waistcoat, the main priority was comfort. This is the go-to choice for those with a more classic style who favor comfort over fashion.

If you regularly wear shirts with a jacket, this is probably the best fit for you because it is the most comfortable. It can be overwhelming on thinner frames, but if you have a rounder stomach, this is the most comfortable and most flattering style for your body shape.

Slim Fit

Raphael wearing a slim fit shirt
A slim fit shirt from Eton.

Throughout history, young men have often tried to differentiate their look from their parent’s generation. At the same time, it has become socially acceptable to wear a dress shirt without a jacket, and therefore the look and fit of the shirt itself has become more important.

While a slim fit shirt is less comfortable and often more constricting in your movement, it is a lot more fashionable because it eliminates excess fabric. A slim fit shirt typically has an accentuated back with darts and a high armhole stance allowing for a shaped look that sits closer to the body, without being skin tight.

When carefully tailored, a slim-fit shirt can look flattering on all frames, but heavier gentlemen are advised to avoid off-the-rack slim fits, which are invariably constricting.

Modern Fit

Consider keeping a spare white shirt handy in your car or office.
A modern fit shirt.

The modern fit falls in between the classic and the slim fit, potentially providing the best of both worlds when it comes to comfort and style. It features a slightly tapered silhouette at the waist, sometimes in combination with small back darts create a trimmer look than the classic fit that looks good even without a jacket without sacrificing comfort. The armholes are high, the sleeves have some room but are not too wide, and the yoke extends to or just past the shoulder bone.

This fit will complement all but the largest of frames.

Super Slim

A too tight dress shirt
A super slim dress shirt that is far too slim for Raphael!

This super slim or skinny fit is mostly popular with young men who think that tighter is better. In practice, this fit is usually characterized by lots of wrinkles, and unless you have a very skinny body that justifies it, you should avoid it altogether. Skintight shirts are not a flattering alternative for anyone, and they restrict your range of movement considerably. If you are interested in Classic men’s style, Super Slim is not considered part of the Classic Canon.

Determining the Fit that is Right for You

No matter what option you choose, fit will have a huge impact on the overall look of your dress shirt, and by extension, the entire outfit. People often talk about the “perfect fit” as if it was one objective standard, but in fact, it contains many subjective elements that rely heavily on your personal style and body type. Ultimately, the “right fit” is “whichever fit is right for you.”

Raphael wearing a blue striped long sleeved dress shirt with pink mottled knit tie

What’s in a name?

While many modern shirt makers employ somewhat standardized nomenclature when referring to shirt fits, there is no standard as to what “Slim” or “Modern” actually means. Therefore, consult individual fit guides or speak with a sales representative to determine fit specifications. Likewise, some makers use more florid language when designating fits. American shirtmaker Brooks Brothers, for instance, calls their slim fit “Milano” and their traditional fit “Madison.” Consult the attendant fit guide to unravel exactly what type of fit these names designate.

Finding the Right Material for You

A pile of fabric used for bespoke shirts
Anyone one of these fabrics could become a dress shirt.

The topic of shirt material has already been converted extensively in a dedicated Material & Fabric guide. Below, however, you can find a summation of some of its most important points.

MaterialNotes
CottonLightweight and breathable, cotton is the favored material for most dress shirts. Because cotton comes in a wide variety of weaves, it can be adapted to suit a variety of climates and situations. Learn more in our dedicated Guide to Cotton.
LinenOne of the oldest fabrics in existence, linen is a lightweight material renowned for its breathability and its unique ability to wrinkle in delicate, pleasing folds. Linen is favored as a shirt fabric in warm and hot weather climates and can make an excellent seasonable option. Learn more in our dedicated Guide to Linen.
SilkSilk has been treasured as a luxury fabric for millennia, and it remains a popular option for high-end shirts to this day. In addition to the aesthetic appeal of its unique sheen, silk has unique insulating properties that help keep you cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s cold. Be advised, however, that genuine silk has a sizable price tag.
SyntheticsThroughout the 20th and 21st centuries, scientific advancements have produced a cavalcade of “new and improved” fabrics that claim to feature improved comfort, wearability, wrinkle resistance, moisture-wicking, and countless other benefits. In our experience, however, these so-called “performance fabrics” always have drawbacks and have never managed to genuinely out-perform natural fibers.

The Impact of Colors, Patterns, and Weaves

Colors

Six men in colorful suits from the 1930s
Like suits, dress shirts come in a variety of colors.

Dress shirts can literally come in any color, although the relative formality of those colors will often dictate which hues are appropriate for different occasions. Certain colors are also better-suited to particular seasons or climates.

Understanding color theory will allow you to integrate your dress shirt color perfectly into any outfit, but in menswear, the most common shirt colors you will encounter are white, off-white, and blue.

Raphael wearing a seersucker suit that drapes poorly and is wrinkled.

White

The white dress shirt has been the traditional dress shirt option for centuries and remains the most common color for dress shirts today. A white shirt can be paired with almost anything, and its neutral appearance will not only complement but highlight all of your outfit’s other elements.

A tan herringbone jacket paired with a brown grenadine tie, white shirt, and striped vest with gold buttons

Off-White

Because the white dress shirt can often come off as somewhat cold, the off-white dress shirt offers a similar color option with more warmth and visual interest. Off-white dress shirts can pair with most of the colors that can be paired with white, but is best set off by earth tones, blues, and warm colors.

A blue dress shirt with purple paisley tie from Fort Belvedere

Blue

A blue shirt is the most conventional way for you to add color to your shirt collection. Nearly every shade of blue, from powder blue to navy blue, can be easily integrated into most Classic menswear outfits. It pairs especially well with gray, red, and brown.

Cover of the book The Great Gatsby featuring the face of a crying woman looking out over Coney Island

“He took out a pile of shirts and began throwing them, one by one, before us, shirts of sheer linen and thick silk and fine flannel, which lost their folds as they fell and covered the table in many-coloured disarray. While we admired he brought more and the soft rich heap mounted higher – shirts with stripes and scrolls and plaids in coral and apple-green and lavender and faint orange, with monograms of indian blue.”

from The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald

Additional Colors

As mentioned, dress shirts can come in any color, but not every color is a good option for a dress shirt. You will be well-advised to focus on starting your dress shirt collection with the above-mentioned colors and then expanding your wardrobe to include other colors that fit in well with your larger wardrobe.

Patterns

patterns popular in 1920s
Interesting patterns give dress shirts unexpected visual interest.

Like colors, patterns give personality and vibrancy to your dress shirts and also affect their overall formality. In general, the more complex and noticeable a pattern is, the less formal it is.

Solid

The most common pattern for a dress shirt is a simple solid color. This solid base makes it easier to match the shirt with other articles because you do not need to worry about patterns clashing. Provided that it is in a neutral color, a solid shirt is the most formal of dress shirts.

Stripes

Common Types of Stripes in Menswear
Common Types of Stripes in Menswear.

Dress shirts can feature stripes in a variety of styles, colors, and densities. The stripes are usually vertical but can also be horizontal. Striped shirts create unexpected visual interest without appearing, in most cases, overly flashy. A striped shirt is extremely versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the other elements of your look. The color, styling, and detail of the stripe will dictate the overall formality of the shirt.

A man in a 1930s suit wearing a horizontal stripe shirt

The rare horizontal striped shirt

Horizontal stripes were historically very common in menswear, but on shirts, they largely disappeared after the 1920s. Occasionally, however, you can find examples, such as this shirt from 1935, and also a shirt worn by Gordon Gecko in the 1987 film Wall Street.

Our Guide to Stripes in Menswear

Checkered

Shirts with checks are the most casual of the common dress shirts. Checks can come in a variety of densities and colors and can range from nearly invisible checks to blatantly bold checks. Because a dress shirt constitutes a large portion of your visual bulk, balancing a checked dress shirt with other garments like a jacket or tie requires a nuanced grasp of the rules of menswear.

Our Guide to Checks in Menswear

Weaves

The weave of a dress shirt refers to how its fibers were woven. At its most basic level, weave determines how breathable a fabric is: a denser weave is less breathable while a looser weave is more breathable, and so the former is generally better suited to colder climates and the latter to warmer.

Weave also determines how the fabric’s surface appears and thus impacts the appearance of your dress shirt.

The topic of weave is covered in-depth in our Material & Fabric Guide, but a summation of basic information can be found below.

WeaveNotes
Plain WeaveConsisting of a simple over-and-under pattern that can be easily recognized, the plain weave is very common and breathable but wrinkles easily.
Fil à filRegarding functionality, fil à fil, or end-on-end, is essentially identical to plain weave. Its sole difference is that fil à fil has either a warp or a weft yarn in a different color, creating a subtle, aesthetically pleasing tone shift.
Voile In the voile weave, the warp and weft yarns are spun until they create a curly twist. This creates a wider thread, which produces an airy and soft fabric. Voile is one of the most lightweight weaves and is in many chases sheer, making it one of the coolest shirt fabrics, but also one of the most delicate.
PoplinSometimes referred to as broadcloth in North America, poplin is a thick fabric with a plain weave that features crosswise vertical warp and horizontal weft, giving it a unique corded appearance. Cotton poplin is favored for warm-weather shirts, especially when made from mercerized, or chemically treated for added softness, cotton. Poplin wrinkles easily but is otherwise very durable.
TwillThis weave is distinguished by a diagonal line that is created by similarly diagonal floats. It does not wrinkle very easily and maintains a smooth surface well. Twill has a higher yarn count than many other weaves and thus tends to be more expensive. Twill can be woven in a variety of patterns, the most famous of which include herringbone, houndstooth, and gabardine.
OxfordAlso known as Panana, this weave is traditionally associated with cotton shirts. It is very similar to plain weave but some of the warp or weft yarns are taken together, resulting in a wider, more basket-like weave. Because the weave imparts a lustrous look to the fabric, the oxford weave is favored for more formal shirts but is also used for casual shirts. Common varieties include Pinpoint Oxford, with its titular dot effect, and Royal Oxford, known for its shiny appearance.

What are the 10 dress shirts all men should own?

Properly Utilizing the Functional Details: Buttons, Pockets, and Plackets

Buttons

Most dress shirts feature buttons along their front closure, and many have buttons at the cuff as part of a barrel cuff or collar as part of the button-down collar.

While the functionality of a button is of the greatest practical concern, the appearance of buttons has a major impact on the overall appearance of the dress shirt.

  • The most formal buttons will be made from mother-of-pearl or bone and be white, beige, or black in color.
  • Cheaper buttons will be made from plastic or other synthetics.
  • Buttons that feature unusual colors or textures will generally be considered more casual.
  • Buttons can also be stitched to shirts in unique and interesting ways, such as a cross-stitch or arrow-stitch, and can have matching or contrast thread for a more bold appearance.

How to Distinguish mother-of-pearl from Plastic

Plastic vs. Mother of Pearl buttons
A visual comparison of plastic and mother-of-pearl buttons.

Well-made plastic buttons may be difficult to distinguish from mother-of-pearl visually. Therefore, you can employ one of two methods to ascertain the material of your buttons.

THE TAP TEST

Tap the buttons against a thin metal object like a pin, or against your teeth. Plastic produces a dull, low-pitched sound, while pearl will sound sharper and higher pitched.

THE TOUCH TEST

Place the buttons against a sensitive part of your body, such as your lips or cheek. If they feel cool, they are likely mother-of-pearl, while plastic buttons will feel warm.

shirt studs

Some semantics on

Studs

Many formal shirts lack buttons on their fronts and are designed to be worn with studs, a unique piece of jewelry used to hold the shirt closed. Studs can be fashioned from a variety of materials, but the most classic will be made from silver, gold, platinum, onxy, or pearl.

Pockets

Because dress shirts were traditionally worn with a jacket, it was relatively uncommon for traditional dress shirts to feature any pockets. The exceptions were dress shirts worn during the day, in which case one breast pocket was occasionally featured to provide temporary storage.

Number of PocketsNotesFormality
No PocketsTypical of most traditional dress shirts and all formal dress shirts.Formal
One PocketTypical of day dress shirts, renders the entire shirt more informal but still formal enough for many professional or social settings.Informal
Two or More PocketsTypical of a casual shirt, especially a sports shirt, work shirt, or recreational shirt. Casual

Yoke

Ideal Yoke and Chest Width
The yoke should rest smoothly against the shoulders.

The yoke is the segment of dress shirt fabric that sits over the shoulders. It is cut separately from the rest of the shirt to allow for improved movement and drape.

Most off-the-rack yokes are made of one panel of fabric because it is cheaper for the manufacturer. There are, however, many benefits to a split-piece yoke made from two pieces of fabric. Each side of the split-piece yoke can be tailored to the actual dimensions of the body, compensating for anatomical variations like uneven shoulders.

This tailoring allows the yoke to sit more naturally on the shoulders, creating a more pleasing drape and helping to align any patterns on the shoulder sleeve seam. Of course, split-piece yokes require more work and measurements and will increase the shirt’s overall price.

Split yoke with matching pattern
Note how elegant the matching pattern on this yoke appears.

Plackets

The placket refers to the detailing around the button or stud closure along the front of the shirt. The placket is one of the main elements of the shirt’s front because it automatically draws attention to itself due to its central position. Traditional dress shirts have a full placket that extends from collar to hem. Relaxed options such as a ¾ placket are reserved for more casual shirts.

Traditional

Also known as the “American placket” due to the strong influence and representation of American style, this is the most conventional style of all. It adds symmetry to a dress shirt, and it is basically a separate piece of fabric attached to the shirt front. It can either be folded or stitched, and it is a popular option for everyday business shirts, but you can also find them on traditional American Oxford Cloth Button Down shirts.

French

The French placket is a more polished alternative than the traditional placket, and therefore it is the choice for evening shirts. It is a very simplistic style that is achieved by folding the fabric over itself inwards. This technique results in a clean shirt front without any stitching. As the name implies, it is associated with a European aesthetic and is the go-to choice for a more modern debonair look. Although traditionally more formal, the French placket can be worn with classic, fashion, or casual shirts today.

Fly-Front

Originally the fly front placket was a modern take on an evening shirt placket without any shirt studs. It features an extra flap of fabric which conceals the buttons thus providing a cleaner looking shirt. At the end of the day, it is still a poor man’s alternative to an evening shirt, and even though some fashion brands have utilized this placket in regular dress shirts, you better stay clear of it, if you want a timeless shirt wardrobe.

Darts

Visibly added darts in the back of the dress shirt is unattractive
Darts on the back of a shirt to take in excess fabric.

Darts are folds sewn into the dress shirt to minimize excess fabric and to help provide localized shape to the garment. They can appear on the back or the front of the dress shirt, and depending on their relative width, can be very noticeable. Darts are primarily employed in dress shirts to cinch the waist and give the entire shirt a more slim appearance, and as such, they are most often seen on dress shirts with more modern styling.

Active wear should be worn in the gym or when you're actually working out, but not as an everyday wear.

Hourglass shape or athletic build?

Consider Darts!

For men with very athletic builds, such as broad shoulders and hips with a trim natural waist, dress shirts often puddle around the middle because of excess fabric. Darts can be an excellent solution to this problem, allowing for a trim silhouette that is tight at the waist without constricting the hips and shoulders.

Pleats

Side view with shoulder pleats
Shoulder pleats unobtrusively improve range of movement and comfort.

Pleats are gatherings of excess fabric that help provide a greater range of movement and generally improve comfort. Although traditionally seen on trousers, shoulder or back pleats on shirts help to guarantee a large range of movement in your arms, and they cause minimal disruption to the overall appearance of the shirt.

Determining Which Collar Type Works for You

The collar is arguably the core of the shirt as it is the most visible element of the garment. Chosen correctly, it should enhance your face and your look. While you can design a collar of your choice with bespoke shirts, even the off-the-rack and made-to-measure industry offers hundreds of different collar shapes.

Collar shapes have variable formalities and harmonize with different face shapes to greater or lesser degrees. The size of your tie and tie knot can also significantly impact the appropriateness of a particular collar type.

As with fit, naming conventions are not standardized, so what constitutes a “classic point collar” can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Classic Collars

Illustration of a classic point collar

Classic Point Collar

A classic collar is the timeless pointed collar that is “just right.” It avoids all extremes in that it is neither too large, nor too small, nor is it too spread or too narrow. It offers the ideal tie gap for small- to mid-size tie knots, and it is a timeless and necessary part of every Classic wardrobe.

Illustration of a spread collar

Spread Collar

A spread collar is by far the most popular contemporary model and a go-to choice for both casual and classic shirts. The beauty of it relies in the versatility, working perfectly with or without a tie, though when you do wear a tie it’s crucial to pick the right size knot to fit the wider gap.

An illustration of a button down collar

Button-Down Collar

A button-down collar is an American, casual-cool classic shirt that we’ve written extensively about in our Oxford Cloth Button-Down guide. It is very commonly seen on Oxford shirts.

A round collar illustration

Club Collar

A club collar is a historic collar that was recently revived by period television series like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire. A different spread can create a very different look and they tend to look especially exquisitve with a collar clip or bar.

Illustration of an evening shirt with collar

Evening Collar

An evening collar was traditionally detachable, starched, and stiff. Today, most tuxedo shirts feature an attached wing collar that is often too small and lank. Therefore, you will be best served wearing a turn-down collar with your tuxedo or a real detachable collar. For white tie, only wear a detachable collar. 

Contemporary Collars

While the Madder Silk Tie in Dark Ruby Red Macclesfield Neats Blue Orange Pattern from Fort Belvedere is attractive, it’s also thin–and the use of a small knot leaves too much of the neckband exposed with this spread collar

Cutaway Collar

A cutaway collar is a modern approach to the spread collar, this model seamlessly works with a variety of shirts from denim to oxfords and even contemporary classics, but it is often difficult to wear it with a tie or bow tie. If you like this look, it’s best to wear it without neckwear.

Photograph of a Stand-up Collar

Stand-Up Collar

Also known as a Mao collar, this collar came to prominence in Western menswear in the 1960s and has enjoyed occasional revivals. Most often associated with conductors or artists and paired with a Nehrun jacket, it is a bold and distinct styling option.

Picking the Correct Cuffs

Cuffs refer to the termination of the sleeve where your wrist connects to your hand. Shirt cuffs come in two varieties, defined by their closure method.

Barrel Cuffs

Barrel cuffs, often referred to as button cuffs, are the everyday choice for most men and the most commonly found cuff type. With a variety of shapes and designs and number of buttons, barrel cuffs provide a wide range of choices to the wearer and are very practical. One critical aspect to bear in mind when considering the type of cuff to choose is its height: traditional, and effectively, outdated cuffs usually sit between 7.5 and 8 centimeters, whereas contemporary classic cuffs are about 6 centimeters, and anything less is on the more fashionable side.

French Cuffs

Traditionally, French cuffs are dressier and more formal, allowing men to sport one of the quintessential pieces of jewelry in men’s style: cufflinks. Because this accessory makes a personal statement and expresses the wearer’s style, French cuffs have become quite popular in recent years, and they are not just reserved for formal shirts.

Preston showing the platinum-plated sterling silver eagle claw cufflinks featuring blue lapis lazuli stone from Fort Belvedere

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls

Preston showing the eagle claw design cufflinks that feature malachite as the stone.

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Malachite Balls

Brooks Brothers Pleated Front Tuxedo shirt with matching cufflinks and shirt studs by Fort Belvedere

Gold Monkey Fist Cufflinks & Matching Studs

Correct Sleeve Length

Finding the perfect

Sleeve Length

If you wear a lot of jackets with shirts from different manufacturers or tailors, you’ll notice that the shirt sleeve length and the amount of cuff you show varies depending on the cut of the armholes of the shirt and the jacket. To prevent that, you can have 6 or 8 buttonholes instead of the usual 4 on a French cuff, so you can easily adjust the shirt length to the jacket. In England, they sometimes come with 6 buttonholes by default and it can be a very useful feature indeed.

The Impact of the Hem: To Tuck or Not To Tuck

The hem refers to the lower edge of the dress shirt, and can include a tail if a portion of the hem extends doawns. The bottom hem indicates a great deal about a shirt’s style, namely if it leans toward the more classic or relaxed end of the spectrum.

A photograph of a tucked-in shirt
A neatly tucked-in dress shirt.

Classic

A classic dress shirt is worn tucked in. Therefore the tail and front hems are longer than the sides, so it doesn’t come untucked during the day. Unfortunately, many off-the-rack shirts today are cut shorter because it helps to reduce the amount of fabric used. Although tails have gotten shorter in recent years, the design must still ensure the functional aspect, which makes the ratio between the lower and higher ends of the tail a critical variable.

Straight

Untuckit has made a name producing shirts with a straight hem to wear untucked
The brand UNTUCKit bases its entire style model around untucked shirts. Image Credit: UNTUCKit.

If you are looking for a casual shirt that you can wear untucked on a more relaxed occasion, straight hems are the way to go. Unlike the tail-shaped version, straight hems make the shirt much more prone to becoming untucked on its own as a result of natural body movements, so caution is advised when choosing the length: too short will look disproportional, whereas too long will just look ridiculous if worn untucked.

SRS Raphael Untucked Shirt

To tuck or not to tuck?

According to the conventions of Classic Style, all dress shirts should be tucked in, and only short-hemmed sports shirts should be worn untucked. Dress shirts are intentionally cut with a longer tail to help hold the shirt in place, and this hem can look awkward when not neatly tucked into trousers.

Selecting the Perfect Decorative Details

Stitch Density & Distance

Low stitch density - 4 per cm
An example of low stitch density: just four stitches per centimeter.

Stitch density refers to the number of stitches that are sewn within a discreet distance, usually within one inch. A higher stitch density generally produces a tighter hold and is also more aesthetically pleasing. You will usually only be able to dictate stitch density when having a bespoke shirt made.

Stitch distance refers to how far the stitch is sewn from the edge of the fabric. Generally, the closer to the edge, the more formal the stitch and shirt will appear.

Monograms

Monograms were originally stitched onto gentlemen’s shirts to make them easy to distinguish in the laundry and were never intended for public view. Therefore, monograms were located on discreet areas of the shirt, such as the back of the collar, over the left breast or stomach, or on the tail.

A photograph of SJ Perelman

“Look at this shirt! Specially made for me by Thresher & Glenny in London – it cost more than you probably spent on coal last winter. If I told ’em once, I told ’em a hundred times – I want the monogram in Old English, not Roman type! What do they think I am – a letterhead?”

S.J. Perelman

Starting in the second half of the 20th century, some men wanted to broadcast their monograms and so decided to display them more prominently, usually on the cuff. Nowadays, the choice to have a monogram is entirely your own, but as in most things, the most Classic monogram will be discreet and understated.

Contrasting Elements

With the rise of online MTM shirts, many brands are offering men the opportunity to add contrasting stitching, collar undersides, shirt plackets, buttonholes or cuff linings to their bespoke shirts. Since most off-the-rack shirts do not have these loud customizations, it’s become another way to show off one’s bespoke clothing, much like working surgeon’s cuffs were 10 years ago.

These details are flashy, so they should be used wisely and sparingly. They can elevate a casual shirt to a new standard, but the second you go overboard it will be too attention-grabbing. Contrasting elements work best when used with subtlety.

Light yellow striped Winchester shirt with point collar paired with Wool Challis Tie in Sunflower Yellow with Green, Blue and Red Pattern from Fort Belvedere

Classic Contrast

The Winchester Shirt

The Winchester shirt, with white cuffs and collar that contrast with the body of the shirt, is a genuine classic in menswear. The subtle contrast elevates a shirts formality and makes it more business appropriate. Avoid using other contrast colors or patterns together with this combination, as the look is strong enough on it’s own.

Learn more about Winchester shirts!

Buying a Dress Shirt

How to Pick the Right Dress Shirt for You

An illustration of a 1930s department store
Don’t you wish that department stores still looked like this?

Along with your suits, a dress shirt will be one of the most important components of your ensemble and an item you will likely wear almost daily. To that end, it is beneficial for you to invest in a wide selection of versatile, well-made, and timeless shirts that will serve you well for years and satisfy all of your needs.

Hallmarks of Quality

When faced with a price differential of $30 compared to $300 for a dress shirt, you might feel daunted in selecting the more expensive option. Careful consideration of the construction, materials, and fine detailing of a well-made dress shirt, however, will make it clear that a higher quality shirt, even if purchased second-hand, will also offer a better cost-per-wear ratio than a cheap dress shirt.

Our Brand Reviews and Recommendations

From historic shirtmakers to modern fashion brands, nearly every manufacturer in menswear offers dress shirts. Finding a dependable brand will require a little experience and a lot of research, but do not fret, because the Gentleman’s Gazette is here to help guide you every step of the way.

Need help starting a dress shirt collection? Check out these brands!

Ready to take the next step? Consider made-to-measure or bespoke!

Learn the 13 most over-and-underrated dress shirts!

Learning the Basics of Dress Shirt Care

Protect Your Investment with Regular and Attentive Care

If you are going to invest in a well-made dress shirt, you should ensure that this dress shirt will last for as long as possible. This will require not only keeping it clean and mended but doing so in a way that prolongs the life of the dress shirt.

Dress shirt care will vary considerably based on the material of the shirt. Therefore, before washing any dress shirt, consult and understand the washing instructions located on the tag at the collar or on the interior seam of the body.

How Often To Wash

Whether you wear an undershirt or not, portions of your dress shirt, primarily at the collar and cuffs, will come into contact with your skin. This contact will expose the fabric to sweat, oils, and other elements that can stain your dress shirt. Therefore, especially if you have sweated considerably, it is advisable to wash your dress shirts, especially white dress shirts, after every wear.

Use you washing machine's gentle cycle for garments that are more likely to pill
Use you washing machine’s gentle cycle for garments that are more likely to pill.

Excessive washing, however, can expose your dress shirts to increased wear, especially if the shirt is made from delicate fabric. Therefore, you should always wash your shirts on the most gentle cycle that still ensures they are thoroughly cleaned and limit, or avoid entirely, the use of dryers, because they pummel your clothes during the drying process.

Ironing

It is often considered an onerous and unpleasant task to iron a dress shirt, but when done properly and in an efficient manner, ironing a shirt, just like ironing any garment, is a simple and easy-to-do task that will ensure that your dress shirt looks its very best.

Raphael ironing a shirt

Be wary of non-iron shirts

While it is advisable to keep a few non-iron dress shirts on hand for when you are traveling, you will be best served generally avoiding non-iron shirts. This is because non-iron fabrics have been treated with chemicals that make the shirt stuffier and less breathable, and some men even have allergic reactions to them. The majority of your dress shirts should not be coated in non-iron finishes and should instead by ironed as needed.

Shrinkage

Cotton dress shirts are likely to shrink in the wash, especially if washed with very hot water. Shirtmakers will compensate for this decrease in size by pre-shrinking the shirt, treating it chemically to reduce shrinkage, or alloting extra fabric to account for shrinkage.

Conclusion

As you can see, the look and feel of a shirt are not just defined by your choice of fabric and the details alone but also heavily by the style choices you make.

We hope this article has left you feeling empowered to make all of the many important decisions that go into selecting the perfect dress shirt. Whether you choose a dress shirt that is off-the-rack, made-to-measure, or fully bespoke, we can’t wait to see how good you look!

FAQ

What is a dress shirt?

A dress shirt is any shirt with a collar and full-length closure secured by buttons or studs that is more formal, usually in styling and material, than a sport or recreational shirt.

What are sport and recreational shirts?

A sport shirt is intended for casual wear, such as leisure or sporting activities. A recreational shirt is specifically designed for particular activities, such as hiking, hunting, or fishing.

What type of dress shirt is best?

Ultimately, the best dress shirt depends on how you intend to wear it. That being said, every gentleman interested in Classic style will benefit from having a plain weave white solid dress shirt with a point or spread collar and barrel or French cuffs in his wardrobe.

What is the best way to style a dress shirt?

Whether worn with slacks or jeans or with or without a jacket, the key to a great-looking dress shirt is always fit. Find a great fit, and your dress shirt will shine in any ensemble.

How are dress shirts sized?

Very inexpensive dress shirts are sized at intervals of “Small, Medium, and Large.” Most dress shirts are sized according to the circumference of your neck and the length of your arm: e.g., 16 & 32.

What is the best fit for a dress shirt?

Ultimately, you are the final arbiter of how your dress shirt should fit. That being said, any fit that is distractingly tight or distractingly loose is not indicative of the Classic Style.

Can a dress shirt be altered?

Yes, a dress shirt can be altered, but these alterations are usually fairly expensive relative to the cost of the shirt. It is, therefore, easier to ensure that the fit is acceptable upon purchase or to invest in made-to-measure or bespoke shirts.

How long should dress shirt sleeves be?

Technically, sleeve length is a matter of personal preference, but most Classic stylists agree that the edge of your cuff should brush the root of your thumb at all times.

Do you have to tuck in dress shirts?

According to the conventions of Classic Style, most dress shirts ought to be worn tuck-in. An exception would be more casual dress shirts with a straight, shallow hem.

What is the best material for a dress shirt?

The majority of gentlemen will benefit from owning a dress shirt in light or medium-weight cotton. Gentlemen in warmer climates might wish to consider linen, while gentlemen in colder climates should consider heavier-weight cotton.

Will dress shirts shrink in the wash?

Depending upon the materials from which they are made and any special finishes, some dress shirts will shrink in the wash but, if washed properly, will only shrink down to the advertised size. Excessive shrinkage can occur, however, if a dress shirt is washed improperly.

What is the difference between a dress shirt and a formal shirt?

A formal shirt is technically a special type of dress shirt intended to be worn only at Black Tie or White Tie events. Somewhat confusingly, formal shirts are occasionally called “full-dress shirts.”

Reader Comments

  1. I am a great fan of contrast collars. Having quite a collection of cuff links I am also a big fan of french cuffs. I would love to try a club collar or another style but having a difficult time finding ready made as my neck is particularly thin.

  2. This is a great story. I have been a shopper at Paul Stuart for many years, Too many to mention.
    They have great shirts off the rack and custom as well. I am a fan of French Cuff weather it be with
    A suit or Tweeds.

    Regards

    Peter

  3. Would it be over the top to wear a shirt with a detachable collar with a business suit? I’m not referring to a formal shirt.

    1. JC –

      A good many shirtmakers offer a range of detachable collar shirts in different colours and styles, with the intention of them being worn with a tie and business suit. So, the answer to your question is that it is not at all over the top .

      Something to remember with lose collars is that they need to be fixed in place with studs, the one used at the front is slightly longer to accommodate the four layers or material – two of the shirt itself, and two of the collar. This can seem bulky and tricky at first, but the interchangeability of collars and styles, and the variety they offer, makes it well worth getting used to.

      The important thing is to get sizing correct – some find it more comfortable to choose a collar slightly larger than the neckband. For example, size 16″ shirt with a 16 1/2″ collar, as you may find the studs uncomfortable if the combination of neckband and collar is not right.

  4. Interesting article. A great reference as I’m considering expanding the variety of shirt styles I wear this year. I do have a question about materials used to make shirts.

    I have some slim fit Brooks Brothers shirts which are non iron. The material seems comfortable from September to April, but as the weather warms up they seem to not breathe well? Are non iron shirts treated with something? Should I look for another brand? Or simply purchase regular shirts that need ironing?

    Are non-iron shirts not worth it at all? I’m curious about your opinion on this.

    1. Well, I suppose it’s very much a matter of taste, but I personally feel that formal shirts should always be ironed. I’ve never encountered a non-iron shirt that could compete with the crispness of a properly ironed shirt. Mind you, I should perhaps mention that I’ve recently given up on the ironing service at my local dry cleaners because I didn’t think they were doing the job well enough, so perhaps I’m unusually fussy about my shirts.

      I’m not entirely sure how the non-iron effect is achieved. I had always assumed that it was down to using a blended yarn incorporating some synthetic fibres, but now that you ask, I realise that I don’t actually know.

      My personal solution to the problem of breathability in the summer is simple – I wear linen. However, that takes the ironing issue to another level…

  5. Eton shirts are one of the best shirts I have ever try. I can say that the fit and the attention to details is immense. If you looking to buy a shirt that will last and put you in “the front row” is ETON! They also have a made to measure service that I use often.

    Kind regards.
    Ciprian.

  6. Skip this if vignettes bore you. Several years ago I was travelling to an area I never expected to need a dress shirt, and of course I did need one. It wasn’t a fancy event, so I went to a local department store and found a white no-iron on sale. Amazingly it was the best-fitting OTR shirt I ever bought – perfect fit and good tailoring except for a few loose threads (of course I ironed it). It was also long-wearing. No, I never shopped like that again, but what a surprise!

  7. Dear Sven,
    As you do, I prefer to wear French cuffs. But as I mainly work in the office sitting at my desk writing by hand or on the computer I experienced it difficult or at least less comfortable with French cuffs. Most times I turn them then so they don’t bother too much, but still this is easier with no Frenchs.
    What is your experience and opinion on that?
    One more question if you allow as it is on a similar topic: What about the jacket? Sitting at my desk I feel it more comfortable not to wear one. Most days I either wear a pullover, a vest or a cardigan to feel a bit more covered (except on hotter summer days).
    All the best from Hamburg,
    Kolja

  8. Thanks for this great article, but can you please elaborate more on shirt pockets and whether they should be added or excluded from “casual” MTM shirts that are designed to be worn untucked?

  9. What about the spearpoint collar? The classic one. Does it work for all face shape? If you can, try to make a guide for this collar type!
    Thanks and greetings from Brazil!
    Daniel.

  10. Shirts are all my favourite, be it for casual or formal outfit. However styling your shirt in different ways will definitely make your look more unique and wonderful.

  11. Thanks for sharing such kind of shirt style guide for men, which is having a great importance because most of the men have no idea about styling a shirt in a great manner. Every small point regarding styling is mentioned in this blog. I think all men must read this blog.

  12. thanks for sharing this post… i really like this Article… it’s very useful for buyers.

  13. Would it be incorrect to wear a half-sleeve button down with a suit or tuxedo?

    1. With a tuxedo, definitely. A suit can provide you with more flexibility depending on the cut and cloth of the suit – i.e. a casual suit is more appropriate than a business suit. It has to do with the fact that a well-fitting suit will have a sleeve length that allows for a little shirt cuff to be shown. With that in mind, wearing a shirt with shorter s sleeves will also make your suit/tuxedo look out of proportion.

  14. Shirts are considered normal attire but they are the main asset of any formal or three-piece suit. So, they shouldn’t be taken so lightly. The above suggestions for styling a shirt from fit, collar to cuffs is really commendable.

  15. Very informative guide. I’ve always found that when it came to planning an outfit, choosing a shirt first sets the tone for the rest of the ensemble, whereby choosing the ensemble first sets the tone for the type of shirt. I’d like to comment on your discussion of formal shirts. What we know in North America as a “formal shirt” is known as a “dress shirt” in the UK. From what I understand, a tunic shirt (standard plain French cuffs shirt in white or pastel shirt body with a collar band one affixes a detachable collar to) makes the distinction of “day dress shirt” in the UK, ergo, a third type of formal shirt appropriate for morning dress. Naturally, one could choose a wing or turndown collar, pairing it with the correct neckwear of course. I’ve noticed recently that many respectable English sellers of morning dress have started selling white, or Winchester plain-fronted French cuffs shirts with an attached spread turndown collar as a formal shirt, i.e. listing “regular” French cuffs shirts suitable for morning wear with their evening shirts. Does this perhaps mean that a standard business dress shirt has been elevated to formal shirt status? If anything, the attached turndown collar French cuffs shirt is just a somewhat more relaxed version of a specific collar pairing of the UK “day dress shirt.” There’s arguments for considering it formal and/or just dress, but I’ll leave it for you to decide.

    I think every man should own at least one plain white and/or one plain Winchester turndown collar French cuffs shirt, as he’ll be covered for business attire and daytime formalwear. The outfit possibilities are endless with just these two types of shirt! I know not everyone is a fan of the cutaway collar or wider spread collars, but I find that style of collar maintains a very crisp appearance to the point some people refer to it as “semi-stiff.” This can be further strengthened by metal collar stays, and I’ve even heard of some people going so far as to starching their attached collars with starch solution and an iron. The levels of crispness one can attain with this collar strongly rival the look of a stiff detachable collar, and if done well can look almost as good, hence further cementing this style of shirt as a very acceptable choice for daytime formalwear. The big thing with wearing this style of collar is getting the spread right so it will stay crisp, but won’t look overly ridiculous even with a large tie knot. I’ve seen some Winchester collar shirts with an attached collar emulate the look of a shirt with a detachable collar so well, I thought it was the real thing. Upon closer inspection, what I thought was a collar stud was actually just an attached collar shirt with a metal collar button.

    TL;DR if you pay attention to the details of your dress shirts, you can get some pretty cool looks. Great content as always :)

  16. For the last few years many “non-iron” clothes actually have some type of chemical coating on them. OK for the short term, but the coating seems to shorten the life of these clothes, especially pants.

  17. Any mention of the combination cuff- french cuffs that button together? For my work this is a perfect amalgamation of style and function.

  18. Dr. D, I think you are referring to a convertible french cuff – they are one of the more popular cuff styles for my clients. A little less formal and bulky than the traditional french cuff but allow you to wear cufflinks when you desire.

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