After Umberto Angeloni was bought out of the legendary tailoring empire Brioni in 2007 , and subsequently he launched the brand Uman
which is dedicated to men’s clothing with an innovative twist.
Today, patterns for RTW clothing are based on male bodies from the 1950s and 1960s, when men were shorter and built differently. For example, The introduction of the PC and the laptop has caused backs to be rounder and the gym workout routine has shaped bodies in a more muscular way.
Consequently, Angeloni started to have 40 to 50 year old men all over the world measured by bodyscanners. Based on that information, he had created a European size 50 (US/UK size 40) but unlike traditional sizes in changes in increments of three instead of two and the shape of the cut changes in a special way. Apparently, he initially created different base cuts for men because bodies in Russia, Japan, Germany or the US simply do have different proportions Now, it seems like he offers basically one cut, the so called Uman 03 which comes in just 5 sizes.
Surprisingly, Angeloni calls his line bespoke, which is obviously a marketing move rather than a matter of fact.
The Uman suit is simplisitic in a very special way. For example he offers a blue single breasted suit in 40 different shades! A blue three piece suit costs 2100 € – almost as much as a real bespoke suit.
In the United States, it is offered exclusively at Barneys New York. Every season three more coats are added to the Uman collection. Noteworthly, Angeloni makes an effort to popularize extraordinary garments, such as the Cuban “Guayabera” or a coat for garden work – the Majorelleor the Fairway-Jacket.
Each garment is accompanied by a little book elaborating on a particular style.
Overall, it seems to be a very interesting concept, which is sold at a price that buys you a Made-To-Measure- or even a bespoke suit.
In the following video, you can learn a little more about Uman and see the creations of Umberto Angeloni – what do you think of Uman?