Gagliardi Review

Gagliardi Unlined Sport Coat Review

About a year ago, we reported about Gagliardi, the Maltese brand run by the Borg family. A few seasons ago, after years of manufacturing clothing for other brands, they decided it was time to create their own label, and Gagliardi was born. With mediterranean cachez their jackets are cut much slimmer than anything you will find off the rack in the U.S. and the fabric selection is traditional with a modern twist. After last year’s review of a linen jacket, today’s review is about a 68% cotton- 32% wool blend sportcoat in small navy white gingham that was provided to me. During a recent trip to New York, I had ample of opportunity to test this garment on the plane as well as in the rain and hot and humid conditions, and it performed very well. It was lightweight, didn’t wrinkle very much and it was comfortable to wear.

Lightweight cotton wool fabric in navy and white gingham pattern with slim lapel

Lightweight cotton wool fabric in navy and white gingham pattern with slim lapel

Fabric

Compared to the linen blazer we tested before, this fabric is very soft, and airy. On top of that, it is much lighter making it extremely comfortable to wear, and on top of that, the wool helps the cotton not to wrinkle too heavily. To me this fabric is perfect for warm summers and resort stays alike because the blue white gingham pattern is different from most other sport coat fabrics, yet the color palette is so classic that you can wear it 5 or 10 years down the line. Just like before, the 1/4 lining is made of viscose, an artificial fiber that is made with an infinity thread from natural cellulose. The undercollar has a white band as well as a different small blue and checked fabric for a subtle contrast. Personally, I can’t remember when I popped my jacket collar for the last time, but I still think it is a nice detail. The same white and checked fabric is used on the inside of the jacket for the pockets and the lining.

Two boutonniere loop stem keepers

Two boutonniere loop stem keepers

Gagliardi Workmanship

Overall the workmanship of this jacket is identical to the other Gagliardi jacket I reviewed. However, because of the softer fabric, this sport coat feels more like a sweater than jacket. Overall, the quality to price ratio is very good, especially when considering that they provide free shipping worldwide!

Details

The cut and details are mostly like the other Gagliardi jacket I reviewed, just in different colors. However, this sport coat lacks the elbow patches, and I like that because elbow patches should be added when the elbows are worn out, and not when it is new off the rack. The buttons are still made of resin, and the buttonholes are non-functional. For an off the rack garment this is actually advantageous in the sense that shortening the sleeves is not a big deal, as it can be done from the bottom. Only good altertions tailors can shorten sleeves from the shoulder, and it is also more expensive. So, at the end of the day, the Gagliardi jacket will save you money at the alterations tailor and once you have the correct length down, you can always make the buttonholes functional if you wish. By default it comes with 4 cuff buttons, as you can see in the pictures. Since I found the sleeves were a little too long for my taste, I brought it to the alterations tailor and asked to remove two buttons for a more sportive look. If you have functional buttonholes, that’s not an option, since you cannot close buttonholes that are already cut.

Resin buttons and non functional buttonholes

Resin buttons and non functional buttonholes

Another noteworthy detail is the lapel buttonhole. For some reason, it’s not all the way open and so you have to use a carpet knife or razor blade and carefully cut it open. It’s a matter of two seconds and not a big deal. To my surprise, the jacket featured, two boutonniere stem keepers this time so once the buttonhole is open, you can easily wear a boutonniere!

On the inside, the coat is half lined which makes it particularly comfortable to wear when it is hot, because you can feel every breeze. Most men don’t know that but it takes much more time and skill to make an unlined or half lined jacket, because the lining hides all threads, unhemmed edges etc. The inside of the Gagliardi jacket is beautiful. All edges are piped in a contrasting white – very dapper indeed!

Just in line with the current trend towards soft, unstructured jackets, the shoulder padding on the sport coat is minimal.

Fit & Sizing

Although not Made-To-Measure, fit and sizing are two big advantages of Gagliardi. First of all, the sizing is extensive and they carry short, regular and long sizes. So no matter if you need 36 short, a 42 regular or a 48 long, they got you covered! Secondly, Gagliardi offers two different cuts, a slim-cut and a contemporary cut. Since the company is based in Malta, the contemporary cut is more like an American slim cut, and the Gagliardi slim cut is a super slim cut and it fits closer to the body than any slim jacket you find at J. Crew. The slim models are also a bit shorter, which is in line with the current fashion trend. Because of that, I went for the long version which is 3 cm or a little over an inch longer across sizes although I usually wear a regular. After the photo shoot, I had the sleeves shortened, but I think especially for shorter and taller thin men Gagliardi jackets are really great. It’s very easy to determine one’s size if you know centimeters. For some reason even though the sizes are in inches, the measurements in the table are centimeters. So bear in mind that 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters.  Once you have that down, it will be very easy for you to order the right size.

Conclusion

Gagliardi, produces modern jackets in great, lightweight summer fabrics that don’t leave much to be desired. Of course the buttonholes are not en par with Isaia, Kiton or Attolini and you can’t find any handwork in the jacket but it also costs less than 10% of those brands. As such the quality to price ratio is phenomenal. If you wear garments from L.B.M or Lubiam, you will definitely like Gagliardi. I hope they will also add some double breasted styles in the future but overall, I think they are on a good way.

Alternatives

If you are not in the market for a small gingham checked sport coat, I urge you to browse their shop because they have a number of other interesting garments. One of my personal favorites is the pale lavender windowpane sportcoat in a lightweight linen / wool blend fabric. Best of all, if you use the code  gagliardigents you will save 15% of your entire store purchase. So hurry up and take a look at their collection. They also offer colorful chinos with a very slim cut. Unfortunately, my strong thighs are not suited for that but if you are in the market for slim trousers, take a look here. Last but not least, if you want some shirts for your collar pins, then you should take a look at their collar pin shirt, because most “online custom” or made-to-measure shirtmakers don’t offer the collar with pin holes for collar bars and pins.

Sport Coat Review of a Gagliardi Garment
Gagliardi Navy Gingham Check Jacket
Date Published: 08/06/2014
Great off the rack summer jacket at fair price. Excellent value for the money
4.25 / 5 stars

21 replies
  1. Stuart
    Stuart says:

    Everything is slim fit or tailored fit or modern fit- all euphemisms for skinny kids. What about us mature bigger guys? We want to look good and be comfortable too.

    Reply
    • Gagliardi
      Gagliardi says:

      Dear Stuart,

      Thanks for your comment.

      Our slim fit garments are in actual fact quite slim and form flattering without ever compromising comfort. We do also have contemporary fit garments which too may be worn by all, irrespective of shape and size.

      Some of our customers opt for contemporary fit garments even though they may be on the slimmer side. The reason for this is that some gents feel more comfortable having slightly more room and manoeuvrability. Our contemporary fit sizes do in actual fact go up to 48/52 inch chest circumference. Besides tailoring, this also applies for our shirts where we have both Slim and Tailored fits.

      Reply
  2. Joe
    Joe says:

    Very nice! I have a suite made from wool, linen and silk that is the same color/pattern. It too is very light. I hadn’t thought of wearing it as a sport coat but I guess seeing it on you, it would work. I’ll have to try it, though the trousers that go with the suite are super light too.

    Reply
  3. Gernot_Freiherr_von_Donnerbalken
    Gernot_Freiherr_von_Donnerbalken says:

    Thank you for this well written review. It has given me a good impression of this coat and I must say it is an offer that can be considered. The lapels may be a little small, a toll to nowaday’s fashion, but except that, there doesn’t seem much be to be desired, given the price.
    By the way I must say that your outfit looks great as usual. Those linen-silk pants you’re wearing are gorgeous. Where did you get them ?
    Best of Greetings across the Atlantic

    Reply
    • Gagliardi
      Gagliardi says:

      Dear Mr Freiherr von Donnerbalken,

      Thanks for your comment.

      Correct, the lapels are rather narrow in line with current fashion trends. The jacket reviewed has been crafted using fabric by one of the best Italian mills in Lanificio di Fabio and is a 68% cotton, 32% wool.

      The jacket also features luxurious navy puppytooth trims internally as well as at the under-collar. All these accented details bring it up to the latest and most current style trends.

      Greetings from the Mediterranean.

      Reply
  4. Tony Chow
    Tony Chow says:

    Thanks for the review. I’m a fan of Gagliardi products. The slim fit is very flattering on me. And the boutonniere loops are a plus. My only complaint is that the sizing is somewhat inconsistent from jacket to jacket, even if they are the same model and nominal size. Fortunately their customer service is very good and even though they are located in Malta, they are willing to do free exchanges.

    Reply
    • Gagliardi
      Gagliardi says:

      Dear Mr Chow,

      Thank you so much for your feedback.

      With respect to your note regarding our jacket sizing, from one model to another we have tolerance levels which allow for a difference of 1 centimetre. On the other hand we are also a relatively young brand, and have made several progressive changes to our jacket blocks in order to please our growing community.

      As you correctly noted, we have a very fair returns policy and a well reputed customer / after-sale service.

      Greetings!

      Reply
  5. Eric
    Eric says:

    May I ask if you received the coat for free in consideration of your (quite positive) review? Regardless, Thank you and keep up the good work.

    Reply
    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Eric, as outlined in the article, this coat was provided to me, but as you can see in my other reviews (Amerano Shirt Review of Indochino) that does not have anything to do with my judgement. Like I said, Gagliardi is good value for money, is it the best jacket I have ever had or comparable to some MTM or bespoke pieces? Obviously not, but you have to keep the price of a garment in mind.

      Reply
  6. BRENT SMITH
    BRENT SMITH says:

    The jacket is functional but rather utilitarian, and the fabric is on the everyday side of boring, but the shoes — those black suede loafers are appalling; cheap and nasty. Black would be the wrong colour anyway, no matter what the quality.

    Reply
  7. Oliver
    Oliver says:

    Thank you for your review and for keeping an eye on Gagliardi.
    Last authem you reviewed a nice sportscoat made out of waxed cotten maid bye them and i’m interessted in how it aged. Will you rereview that coat?

    Kind regardes,
    Oliver

    Reply
  8. Richard
    Richard says:

    What is the correct etiquette when a client asks you out to lunch to discuss some business, who should pay or do you split the bill?
    I look forward to your reply
    Regards
    Richard

    Reply
    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      If he is your client, you pay. Of course it depends on the business. If you make $100 of him, you won’t pay for lunch at a $150 a meal place ten times in a row. But generally, I always pay if I go out with my clients, no matter if they initiated lunch or not. If it is a long term relationship, you want to show that you care for him and that you take care of him.

      Reply

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