About a year ago, we reported about Gagliardi, the Maltese brand run by the Borg family. A few seasons ago, after years of manufacturing clothing for other brands, they decided it was time to create their own label, and Gagliardi was born. With mediterranean cachez their jackets are cut much slimmer than anything you will find off the rack in the U.S. and the fabric selection is traditional with a modern twist. After last year’s review of a linen jacket, today’s review is about a 68% cotton- 32% wool blend sportcoat in small navy white gingham that was provided to me. During a recent trip to New York, I had ample of opportunity to test this garment on the plane as well as in the rain and hot and humid conditions, and it performed very well. It was lightweight, didn’t wrinkle very much and it was comfortable to wear.
Compared to the linen blazer we tested before, this fabric is very soft, and airy. On top of that, it is much lighter making it extremely comfortable to wear, and on top of that, the wool helps the cotton not to wrinkle too heavily. To me this fabric is perfect for warm summers and resort stays alike because the blue white gingham pattern is different from most other sport coat fabrics, yet the color palette is so classic that you can wear it 5 or 10 years down the line. Just like before, the 1/4 lining is made of viscose, an artificial fiber that is made with an infinity thread from natural cellulose. The undercollar has a white band as well as a different small blue and checked fabric for a subtle contrast. Personally, I can’t remember when I popped my jacket collar for the last time, but I still think it is a nice detail. The same white and checked fabric is used on the inside of the jacket for the pockets and the lining.
Overall the workmanship of this jacket is identical to the other Gagliardi jacket I reviewed. However, because of the softer fabric, this sport coat feels more like a sweater than jacket. Overall, the quality to price ratio is very good, especially when considering that they provide free shipping worldwide!
The cut and details are mostly like the other Gagliardi jacket I reviewed, just in different colors. However, this sport coat lacks the elbow patches, and I like that because elbow patches should be added when the elbows are worn out, and not when it is new off the rack. The buttons are still made of resin, and the buttonholes are non-functional. For an off the rack garment this is actually advantageous in the sense that shortening the sleeves is not a big deal, as it can be done from the bottom. Only good altertions tailors can shorten sleeves from the shoulder, and it is also more expensive. So, at the end of the day, the Gagliardi jacket will save you money at the alterations tailor and once you have the correct length down, you can always make the buttonholes functional if you wish. By default it comes with 4 cuff buttons, as you can see in the pictures. Since I found the sleeves were a little too long for my taste, I brought it to the alterations tailor and asked to remove two buttons for a more sportive look. If you have functional buttonholes, that’s not an option, since you cannot close buttonholes that are already cut.
Another noteworthy detail is the lapel buttonhole. For some reason, it’s not all the way open and so you have to use a carpet knife or razor blade and carefully cut it open. It’s a matter of two seconds and not a big deal. To my surprise, the jacket featured, two boutonniere stem keepers this time so once the buttonhole is open, you can easily wear a boutonniere!
On the inside, the coat is half lined which makes it particularly comfortable to wear when it is hot, because you can feel every breeze. Most men don’t know that but it takes much more time and skill to make an unlined or half lined jacket, because the lining hides all threads, unhemmed edges etc. The inside of the Gagliardi jacket is beautiful. All edges are piped in a contrasting white – very dapper indeed!
Just in line with the current trend towards soft, unstructured jackets, the shoulder padding on the sport coat is minimal.
Fit & Sizing
Although not Made-To-Measure, fit and sizing are two big advantages of Gagliardi. First of all, the sizing is extensive and they carry short, regular and long sizes. So no matter if you need 36 short, a 42 regular or a 48 long, they got you covered! Secondly, Gagliardi offers two different cuts, a slim-cut and a contemporary cut. Since the company is based in Malta, the contemporary cut is more like an American slim cut, and the Gagliardi slim cut is a super slim cut and it fits closer to the body than any slim jacket you find at J. Crew. The slim models are also a bit shorter, which is in line with the current fashion trend. Because of that, I went for the long version which is 3 cm or a little over an inch longer across sizes although I usually wear a regular. After the photo shoot, I had the sleeves shortened, but I think especially for shorter and taller thin men Gagliardi jackets are really great. It’s very easy to determine one’s size if you know centimeters. For some reason even though the sizes are in inches, the measurements in the table are centimeters. So bear in mind that 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters. Once you have that down, it will be very easy for you to order the right size.
Gagliardi, produces modern jackets in great, lightweight summer fabrics that don’t leave much to be desired. Of course the buttonholes are not en par with Isaia, Kiton or Attolini and you can’t find any handwork in the jacket but it also costs less than 10% of those brands. As such the quality to price ratio is phenomenal. If you wear garments from L.B.M or Lubiam, you will definitely like Gagliardi. I hope they will also add some double breasted styles in the future but overall, I think they are on a good way.
If you are not in the market for a small gingham checked sport coat, I urge you to browse their shop because they have a number of other interesting garments. One of my personal favorites is the pale lavender windowpane sportcoat in a lightweight linen / wool blend fabric. Best of all, if you use the code gagliardigents you will save 15% of your entire store purchase. So hurry up and take a look at their collection. They also offer colorful chinos with a very slim cut. Unfortunately, my strong thighs are not suited for that but if you are in the market for slim trousers, take a look here. Last but not least, if you want some shirts for your collar pins, then you should take a look at their collar pin shirt, because most “online custom” or made-to-measure shirtmakers don’t offer the collar with pin holes for collar bars and pins.