The collar you choose for your dress shirt will likely have a greater impact on your look than the cuff style or even the overall fit. As it’s the element that literally frames your face, it pays to know the different dress shirt collars that are available, so you can make a perfect choice.
Video Guide to Shirt Collars
If you’re looking to see a variety of shirt collars in action, Preston is on hand to provide a video tour through many popular collar options.
Shirt Collar Basics
Before selecting a collar style, it’s a good idea to understand the basics of what makes a good, or bad, shirt collar. There are a few simple parameters that will help you understand how to get the right balance that suits you best.
Collar Stiffness
From the 1800s to the 1930s, collars made stiff by the liberal application of starch were the norm. These collars were detachable for replacement in an era where effective detergents and laundering were not available. Nowadays, collar stiffness is determined by the thickness of the interlining used to form the collar.
Still affected by the influence of Italian style and the Duke of Windsor, softer collars are more popular these days, particularly with soft tailoring. So, if you prefer odd jackets with natural unpadded shoulders, a soft shirt collar is a great pairing choice for the Neapolitan style. Soft collars are generally better for more casual outfits as well, so they are perfect for warm weather and relaxed looks anytime.
If you are going for a more formal look by wearing a business suit, a firmer collar is the better option for a crisp and sharp appearance. Something in between the two extremes may be the most versatile choice. This is easier to specify if you are looking at made-to-measure or bespoke shirt options, but the majority of good quality ready-to-wear shirts will be designed with the right level of stiffness
Collar Height
Collar height is the measure of how high a collar sits on your neck. Taller collars are more formal as well as more aggressive; they communicate that you mean business. When choosing a shirt for the workplace, be aware of the impression that collar height makes. A high collar is more typical of the Italian style and can even require two collar buttons to support the added height.
Taller collars can also require some getting used to in terms of the way they feel on your neck. If you’re interested in trying a shirt with a tall collar, consider some offerings from brands like Proper Cloth and Eton.
Face Shape
The collar size you choose will depend on your face shape. If you have a large head or round face, a bigger collar is more suitable to balance out your appearance. Wearing a tiny collar in such cases will only make your face look disproportionately larger. A good rule of thumb is to choose a collar that is similar to the size of your head and face.
The spread or distance between collar points will also be something to take note of. If you have a thin or narrow face, a wider spread collar can help counterbalance that; wearing a narrow collar, in this case, will only enhance the impression of narrowness and make your head look longer. But, if you have a wide or round face, wearing a collar with the points closer together will create a slimmer impression. Unlike size, in terms of spread, you want to choose the opposite of your face width.
What face shape are you?
Collars at either end of small and large or wide and narrow spread are considered more rakish and non-conformist. So, something of moderate size and spread is ideal for business and everyday use as it hits that middle ground perfectly.
Essential Shirt Collars
The Point Collar
For most white-collar companies, the default business collar is likely the point. As evident from the name, this style is characterized by the fact that the collar tips are pointed. The spread between the points is small and neat. As such, your collar will not expose any of the tie on either side beyond the knot if you wear a four-in-hand.
When wearing a jacket, the points of the collar will not be covered by the lapels, which can be seen as a potential downside for some. This collar flatters if you have a wider face, as it creates a greater balance. A point collar seems to work best in medium stiffness and is typically best worn with collar stays to keep the look of a straight collar with neat points.
Do keep in mind that a stiff point collar will make the collar stand away from the shirt when you are wearing a tie, so there is a gap between the collar and the shirt.
The Spread Collar
Perhaps the most universally flattering type of collar, the classic spread collar is the perfect choice for many people. Suitable for a wide range of functions and events such as cocktails, business meetings, weddings, and everyday wear, the spread collar is characterized by wider collar points than a standard point collar.
Flattering Faces
Generally speaking, a spread collar is most suitable for the majority of faces, as it draws the viewer’s eyes outward, providing a greater level of balance. Not only that, but a spread collar is more likely to sit neatly under your jacket lapels.
The beauty of the spread collar is the ability to wear wider tie knots like the Windsor and Half-Windsor, as well as the smaller four-in-hand, making it uniquely versatile. Spread collars are also a great option if you own thicker ties, such as those made of wool, cashmere, or other heavier fabrics.
You’ll likely see a bit of variation on both the level of spread, as well as the name for this collar style. You may come across collars such as names and terms such as “semi-spread collars”, or “Kent collars”, and it may even be referred to as an “English spread collar”. Typically speaking, all these different labels will largely relate to a variety of the spread collar style.
The Button-Down Collar
Although it was originally worn by English polo players, the button-down collar has become an American favorite after it was introduced by Brooks Brothers. A staple of Ivy, prep, and trad styles, the button-down collar is a variation of the point-collar dress shirt and is stylistically appealing to many.
Stylishly Sprezzatura
Fans of sprezzatura styles will leave the buttons of their button-down collar open, or even close just one button, to project a sort of nonchalance. For others, doing this can seem sloppy or contrived, so it’s all a matter of personal style.
Button-down collars are typically quite soft, which creates an elegant collar roll where longer button-down collar points curve around the tie knot. The collar roll is also a fantastic way to go without a tie, but still look elegant as the shirt continues to highlight your face when worn with a tailored jacket. If the visible buttons are too casual for you, try the hidden button down.
The hidden button-down contains snaps or a loop and button beneath the collar points, allowing the roll and the collar to sit in the same way but with the buttons hidden. however, the neat look can be spoiled by the shirt front wrinkling at the collar tips, so this is something to keep in mind.
Sartorial Shirt Collars
The Cutaway Collar
The cutaway collar is cut to be much wider than a classic spread collar. In some cases, the angle of the collar can be a completely horizontal line across the neck. Cutaway collars dramatically spread like this or even wider back on the neckband of the shirt are known as extreme cutaway collars.
For cutaway collars, a large tie knot like the Half or Full Windsor knot is essential to avoid showing the body of your tie as well as the knot itself, therefore cutaway collars can also be referred to as Windor collars. Still, you may prefer to will tie a regular four-in-hand for an element of sprezzatura.
The Spearpoint Collar
A retro version of the point collar is the spearpoint, which, like its namesake, has really long points. When collars started to become attached in the 1920s and 30s, the collars were quite soft and unruly. Therefore, it became quite stylish to wear them with a little metal pin or clip known as collar pins or collar clips respectively. They keep the collar points close together, so as to create a neat look.
Boardwalk Style
Set in the heyday of prohibition in the 1920s and early 1930s, the HBO television series Boardwalk Empire enjoyed showcasing characters in spearpoint collars. Almost every character on the screen can be seen wearing this type of collar, with the majority of them wearing a collar clip or collar pin to keep the points in check.
These have made something of a comeback of late because their length is considered a rakish change of pace while still being usable in the same circumstances as the standard point. You can find versions of this collar in shops with vintage style; the point-collar shirts sold by Edward Sexton are also quite narrow and thus lean toward being spears.
The Tab Collar
Tab collars are another style with a distinctly vintage edge. Similar to the spear point collar, tab collars also boast a distinctly classic look. What’s special about this type of collar is the underlying tab beneath each collar leaf that fastens underneath the knot of a tie with either a button or snap closure.
This pulls the collar tips closer together while also lifting the knot of your tie for an even more distinguished appearance. Because of the tabs, this collar can only really be worn with a necktie, not open at the neck. This style has been a popular collar choice since Daniel Craig wore them in the role of James Bond from 2012’s Skyfall onwards.
The Pin Collar
The various collars with a smaller distance between the leaves or points lend themselves readily to the use of collar pins, clips, or bars. These are accessories designed to close the space between collar points while also elevating your tie knot. If your shirt is designed with special eyelet collar holes, you can use a collar pin, which looks like a large safety pin, or a collar bar, which resembles a barbell with an end that unscrews. Such special pin collars are sold by Eton and Edward Sexton among others. Like the spearpoint and tab collar, the spread of a pin collar will typically be quite narrow.
You can also create the look of a true pin collar with a collar clip, which can be used with point or club collars without punching holes in them. Just like cufflinks, collar pins, bars, and clips are jewelry elements that elevate your personal style. Fort Belvedere offers a variety of these accessories in silver and gold for you to try.
The Club Collar
Another collar with a narrow spread and a vintage appearance is the rounded club collar. This style originated at Eton College, which had previously been the incubator of Beau Brummell’s stylistic innovations. The young gents who attended there were looking for a way to distinguish themselves from other schools and hit upon rounding off the collar points, which is the defining feature of the club collar.
Otherwise known as a penny collar due to the rounded edges, this is a style that has enjoyed several heights of popularity throughout the years. It is possible to wear a club collar that is also a tab collar, as the former is defined by the shape of the collar leaves and the latter by the presence of a hidden tab.
The Band Collar
Band collars used to be very commonplace, as men’s shirts and collars used to be made separately. Men would purchase a soft shirt with a short band collar, and use collar studs to attach a stiffly starched collar to the band. This would make laundering the shirt body easier, as the collar would need separate attention to get that super stiff look just right.
White Collars
The Winchester collar remains a popular choice among clothing enthusiasts. Shirts with Winchester collars are distinctive as they bear a white collar and cuffs, in contrast to the shirt’s colored or patterned body. Nowadays, the collars and cuffs are attached, but the look originates from the late 1800s when these elements of a shirt would be separate. The look continued into the early 20th Century and beyond, becoming especially popular once again in the 1980s.
Nowadays, band collars are worn for a more modern look. This sort of collar, standing 1-2″ high can be referred to as a Mandarin for its origins in Chinese clothing and a granddad shirt (when worn as part of a casual, rustic American style). This shirt must be worn tieless, but vintage clothing enthusiasts will likely appreciate wearing one of these shirts with a separate stiff collar.
Unusual Shirt Collars
The One-Piece Collar
Known as the Hollywood or Cooper collar because it was famously worn by Gary Cooper, the one-piece collar is rare in most ready-to-wear shirts. Usually, a shirt collar is constructed separately from the rest of the shirt. A one-piece collar, however, is made from the same piece as the shirt placket, which reinforces it and enables it to stand upright; it also requires tailoring skill to construct.
Because of its structure, the one-piece collar is tall and has an incredible collar roll, which is the signature element of this style. A possible shortcoming of the one-piece is that the points tend to float up or escape from under the lapels of a sport coat if the shirt is worn with the top button open. With a tie, there are no such issues.
The Pajama Collar
The collar commonly seen on pajama tops–flat and divided into two parts, resembling a notch lapel on a jacket–is known variously as a pajama collar, Cuban collar, or bowling collar. The look is definitely reserved for casual shirts, usually with short sleeves in warm weather environments such as Hawaiian “Aloha” shirts.
However, in recent years they’ve been making an appearance on long-sleeved shirts worn with tailoring. In some versions, the top part of the collar is longer than the bottom, but it can also be the other way around. The common aspect is that the collar is large, divided, and lays flat. This is definitely quite a modern look, so tread carefully if attempting to replicate this style.
5. The Square Collar
There are also shirt collars that are quite small with a minimal spread, among them the square collar, so called because the collar points are squared off. These were worn, usually in detachable form, in the early twentieth century, but are quite hard to find today.
![Left: Jonny Lee Miller wearing a square collar as Sherlock Holmes on "Elementary"; Right: vintage detachable square shirt collars from Welch & Margetson [Left Image Credit: Paramount Global]](https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Square-Shirt-Collar-Shapes-1030x687.jpg "Square Shirt Collar Shapes")
Tuxedo Shirt Collars
When it comes to dressier occasions, you’ll want to ensure you’re choosing the right shirt collar to pair with your beautiful evening wear. Whatever special occasion you’re donning your tuxedo or dinner jacket for, the standard collar choice is the spread collar, as it provides the right balance for a formal look.
Even though many menswear fashion brands suggest wearing modern look collars for events such as weddings, you run the risk of following a trend that will soon become dated. Instead, a neat English spread collar on your formal shirts is the best way to continue looking elegant and stylish.
The Wing Collar
Reserved only for the most formal events is the wing collar, also known as the winged or wingtip collar. The tips stand up and are directed horizontally so they resemble the open wings of a bird. This collar is most often worn with a bow tie and is typically reserved for white tie events, though some men today enjoy its vintage look with a tuxedo. You may also see the wing collar worn by valets or butlers with a black necktie in period pieces such as Jeeves and Wooster.
Shirt Collar FAQs
What are collars on shirts for?
Shirt collars as we know them today originated from tall collars that used to be worn up against the neck, and fastened with a cravat. As the cravat was refined into the necktie and bow tie, shirt collars started to be folded over the band of neckwear to provide a neat look to the outfit, and frame the wearer’s face.
What are shirts with wide collars called?
Collars with a wide spread are most commonly referred to as cutaway collars. This is because the collar points look as though they have been cut away from the rest of the collar.
How many types of shirt collars are there?
There are a huge number of different shirt collar options out there, chiefly because there are so many brands that create a collar in a slightly different way to others. However, most shirt collars are designed after a few essential styles, which we outline in our guide.
What shirt collar should I wear with a bow tie?
For daywear bow ties, a classic spread collar is best to balance the look of the bow tie. Longer pointed collars can distract from the effect of the bow tie, so ensure your collar is a moderate size. These same rules generally apply for eveningwear, however, youay wish to employ a wing collar shirt with a black tie ensemble. Wing collars are most traditional with the white tie dress code, but can look quite debonair with a dinner jacket, too.
Can shirt collars be altered?
There is a small degree of alteration that may be possible to a shirt collar, but it typically tricky and expensive work. It therefore pays to get the collar right to befin with!
Which type of collar is the most common style?
in the 21st Century, you’ll find that the spread collar is the most common style for dress shirts in Europe, while the point collar is more popular in The United States.
Why did shirts have detachable collars?
As laundering shirts used to be a tricky process, it was easier to have a separate collar that could receive special attention, as the body of the shirt would largely be hidden under the clothes.
In Summary
Various menswear brands have special proprietary names for their collar styles, like the Varsity (Paul Fredrick), the Roma spread (Proper Cloth) or the Martus (the now defunct Welch & Margetson). Whatever the names, these are essentially variants of one of the collar types discussed above, and once that you know the different permutations you can identify the features in any collar.
You may start with a more conservative style for work but then you’ll experiment until you find the ideal collar for your face shape and individual taste. I started with the typical American point collar then went with a radical cutaway with an eye toward Italian style. Eventually, I realized this didn’t work well with a tie or my rounder face shape. Now, I’m wearing moderate spread collars with collar roll and long points. Whether I stick with this for the rest of my life is yet undetermined.
Outfit Inspiration
Preston wears a blue and white striped shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt that has a point collar, which they refer to as a classic collar. It’s accented with a gold collar clip from Fort Belvedere which is also serving to accentuate the tie knot. The tie in question is a cashmere wool model in a grenadine weave featuring wide stripes in orange and gray, accented by a thin stripe in white.
The tones of orange, the blue of the blazer, and its gold buttons are echoed in a pocket square rom Fort Belvedere. It’s principal color is sapphire blue and it features an Art Deco Egyptian scarab design with other colors being burnt orange, yellow madder blue, and a teal contrast edge.
Also from Fort Belvedere are the red exotic Caribbean boutonniere, a pair of gold-plated sterling silver Eagle Claw cufflinks with tiger’s eye as the stone, and shadow striped socks in grey and light blue. Rounding out the outfit are a pair of plain charcoal grey trousers that harmonize with one of the stripe colors in the tie, and some dark chocolate brown suede penny loafers.
Surprisingly no mention of rule that for shirt to look like it fits collar needs to touch collar bone so choice depends on a few more points of physiogomy than just shape of face. Also collars have much more variation than point and cutaway, the Turnball partial curve being a good example. Technically a point collar but with gentle curve extending the points from the collar. Lastly choice of stays another key issue varying from flexible to super stiff.
Thanks for the great article. My favorite collars are the spear and club. The square collar I have never tried, but definitely will be looking for it. Chester Cordite makes some very good vintage spear collar dress shirts.
Great Article!
May I suggest that you include a link to the How To Style a Collar Clip article?
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/collar-clip-shirt-style/
Having never used one, I had to look it up to see how they are used.
This article runs neck and neck with your best postings.
Incredible how badly dressed Greg McGregorson is!
His attire/presentation (and your comment) sparked my curiosity. I felt that there was something to him. I visited his site and am not disappointed. He has friends who are stylishly turned out. He looks very attractive and comfortable in the outfit he wore in Cuba.
He and I are from different generations…he writes that he was influenced by Hip Hop. I’m not. I couldn’t wear some of the clothes he wore but I’ll pay attention to him (and his friends).
Thomas Pink does not offer a point collar and they have no collar style called the Freddie. Could you please correct this? Thank you.
But they do, or did: The Freddie point collar at https://www.thomaspink.com/product/freddie-plain-super-slim-fit-button-cuff-shirt/02200127K3X
Dr. Lee,
Thank you for your prompt reply, but the collar on the pink shirt embedded above in the text and the collar on the shirt in the link you provided are clearly not the same collar.
I’m afraid I have to agree with Mr. Hammersmith: Pink do not offer a point collar. Might I humbly suggest that you replace the photo with a point collar actually available from a different maker.
Pink say “the Freddie Stretch super slim fit Button Cuff Shirt shirt features a short point collar…”
Great article.
I wonder if there’s some type of special clear collar guard available somewhere online for white shirts so that the dirt off of your neck doesn’t get on the white-collar. Do you know of such thing that a person could buy online to guard their shirt collar from getting dirty? Thanks in advance. :-)
Shout followed by bouncing a small, stiff bristle brush up and down on the collar fabric (rather than brushing, which will abrade the fabric), works well for me. Let the shirt sit for 45 minutes or more before laundering. For already stained shirts, Dawn and a toothbrush work well. For particularly stubborn stains, Oxyclean or equal parts water, hydrogen peroxide, and baking soda.
Best of luck.
Watching Scorsese’s ‘Goodfellas’ a few evenings ago, I remarked to my father that I had never seen anyone ever wear a spear collar (as depicted in the movie) before. He replied that they had been quite common in the 1970s.
In the last years I have been increasingly seeing senior executives sporting the ‘startup CEO ‘ look with tieless open white shirt collar. Their wrinkled old necks look awful. What collar style do you recommend for that look to elderly gents? I think I have read that long points were the most forgiving. I guess I will have to spare the tie when I retire and would hate to look like a vulture.
It’s interesting to know that a one-piece collar is made from the same piece as the shirt placket which helps reinforces it. My wife an I have an upcoming dinner party and I am trying to figure out what kind of dress shirt I need for the occasion. I think I will get a one-piece collar so everything feels secured and upright when I am wearing my full outfit.
Can you guys recommend any brands carry club collar shirts under $100? Rather than ProperCloth and Paul Fredrick?
Doc Lee gives a link to revivalvintage co uk – they do club collars priced in sterling which look as if they would come out under $100
Is the varsity collar no longer a fashionable business dress shirt preference? I’m a bow tie wearer and this works well with 2.5″ bow ties of all fabrics for DB suites, ventless, pleated trousers, 1.5″ cuffs and braces; my style from the 80’s, thanks!
Very interesting article, but no mention of the straight collar, a very traditional look. Is it far out of style?
I can get all these collar styles from iTailor, but not The One-Piece Collar.
…who can help me??
The two men (#1 & #4, left to right) in the GG picture should have taller collars because they have long necks.
Hi Kevin, good spot regarding collar height. I guess Preston (#4) and I (#1) might agree that a lot of ready-to-wear shirts don’t offer the best collar height for those with longer necks. Personally speaking, I invest more in the style of the collar, the spread, and the other details of the shirt. As/when I go bespoke, I’ll definitely opt for something a little taller.
Hi Jack,
The reason that I noticed that is because I have a long neck as well.
When I was having my shirts made by Alan Flusser in NYC, that was mentioned to me, so my collars are higher.
Perhaps my age is showing, or perhaps you become fond of the styles while you were in college, but 95% of my collars a button-down, 5% white collars on a design and 5% standard white. (I also wear weejuns except with business suits and formals.) I think this is what they call traditional Ivy League–but no locker loops on the shirts!