1930s Outfits for Hot Summer Weather Apparel Arts

With summer weather in full swing on either side of the pond, it is time to transition to some warm weather outfits, after we covered various spring suits and combinations in the last couple of months.
Let’s focus on a few illustrations from an issue of Apparel Arts in 1937:
Burma-Beige Tropical Worsted Suit
First, look at the gentleman in a Burma-beige suit which is made of tropical worsted wool. Even for summer, some gentleman opted for double breasted suit which wear considerably warmer than a single breasted suit of the same cloth and make. This mode is a 4×1 double breasted coat with a very low buttoning point, that is even further exaggerated by the length of the coat. Fashion illustrations at the time seem to favor very tall men, although the gent on the street was probably a foot shorter on average. The trousers are cut very full, feature standard cuffs, and have a slight break above the brown reverse calf leather shoes. His light colored shirt is combined with a Madras tie, Panama hat and a camera.
Green Slacks & Espadrilles
For more casual and relaxed occasions, let’s look at these gentlemen. The one to the left wears moss or seaweed green colored, double-pleated slacks. They were cut wide and worn high on the waist, according to the fashion of the day. Interestingly, they featured a 4 inch waistband which was probably reinforced with some kind of rubber on the inside, since there is no visible side adjuster and a belt would not have looked good either. His diagonal checked short-sleeved and collarless shirt is tucked in. On his feet, he wears some traditional white espadrilles. These shoes are a combination of jute fibers and canvas or cotton.
First, the sole of the shoes is created by braiding the Jute fibers into a string, which is then shaped into the form of a sole. Subsequently, the canvas top is applied and you basically have your new
Espadrilles. There is absolutely no heel or front cap on the shoe, or anything else that provides stability, but they are quite breathable.
Côte Blue Linen Shirt, Shorts and Norwegian Slippers
The chap in the middle wears an oufit dominated by the Côte Blue summer shirt and shorts. Côte Blue is the term for this special kind of pale blue which was popular in Europe and the Caribbean in the thirties. His shirt is made with a wide collar and a flap pocket on each side of the chest. I particularly like the addition of the brown belt with the slightly darker brown Norwegian slipper, which he is wearing without socks. However, his knitted cap on his head is definitely not my cup of tea.
Madras & Shantung Outfit
I like the outfit on the right because of its rather bold and unusual colors. Just look at the straw hat with the curled brim and the red hat band – it’s hard to find that nowadays. Also, the yellow, red and black Madras patterned shirts are not something you can purchase in a store today. His pants are apparently made of natural colored shantung silk which certainly makes for a very casual look but I suspect that it would wear rather warm. Since silk is likely to color off in hot climates, it is of vital importance to opt for undied silk!
The Dinghy Suit & the Butcher Check Shirt
Back then, the light blue Dinghy Suit was spotted by Apparel Arts in St. Tropez. It is basically a loosely fitting suit which is ideal for fishing on a dinghy (little boat). As a contrast, the gent in the illustration wears red espadrilles. As I mentioned before, due to the lack of stability, it is certainly not a very functional shoe in this environment but it is definitely stylish. His friend with the fishing rod wears a butcher-check shirt in blue and red, navy blue beach slacks and likewise espadrilles. It seems like espadrilles were definitely the summer shoe of choice for the elegantly dressed gentleman for hot summer climates.
What do you consider to be an ideal summer outfit for temperatures above 90° F and which of the illustrated outfits would you wear yourself?
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- Apparel Arts Summer Fashions 1935 — Fell Sharp — Gentleman's Gazette - [...] may also be interested in other Apparel Arts illustrations like Summer Weather Outfits, the Lovat Green Summer Jacket, or ...
















La Sombra Sofisticada - June 7, 2011
This fine article really shows how many different ways a man can dress for summer and still be well dressed. Inspiring! With 86 degrees Fahrenheit here in Tallinn I choose linen pants, a braided belt and a blue shirt when working from home. But I would love to trade it for the beige suit
Sven Raphael Schneider - June 8, 2011
Beige suits deserve a come back indeed!
Andrea - June 8, 2011
Those funny little knitted caps appear to be a fad at that time. See my post to see one as part of ladies’ fashionable tennis/resort wear, as well as a lovely Lartigue photo of Renee Perle wearing one.
I’d love to know if these had a particular name at the time. Not sure I’d ever wear one, though.
http://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2010/07/pictorial-review-6972-womens-and-misses.html
Sven Raphael Schneider - June 8, 2011
Thanks for the link Andrea, I will do more research on the caps. I am pretty sure I have read the name of it sometime ago. In any case, I will keep you updated!
Andrea - August 13, 2011
A little more research indicates that the little knitted caps may have been called calots. Similar caps for women were certainly called this by the 1940s, when they show up in knitting books.
Sven Raphael Schneider - August 13, 2011
Dear Andrea,
Thanks for your research! Did you only find this in knitting books or in other sources as well?
Andrea - August 14, 2011
The term seems to be used throughout the 1940s for a women’s close-fitting cap – not always knitted. I haven’t found it used in menswear, unfortunately.