Jetted Pocket

Jetted Pockets vs. Flap Pockets

Originally, there were specific rules about coats and whether they were supposed to have jetted pockets or flap pockets. On the one hand, all formal garments had jetted pockets, including coats with peaked lapels. That’s why you should never see any welt pockets on a tuxedo or a Stroller or Stresemann.

On the other hand, informal coats were equipped with flap pockets. This was quite practical because the flap prevented things inside the pocket from falling out. All country suits and coats with notched lapels were considered to be informal. However, if a coat had patch pockets, it sometimes did not have flaps. In that case, the patch pocket often had a button as well as a buttonhole on the inside in order to achieve the same loss-prevention effect of a flap.

Today, the distinction between formal and informal coats, and subsequently, the decision for one kind of pocket over another is mostly obsolete. This is probably due in part to the fact that many suits and coats have notched lapels today. Another reason is surely the flap itself, which is sewn on in a way so it can be tucked into the pocket. As I mentioned before, the tuxedo is one of the very few garments left that still does not have flaps—simply jetted pockets. In my opinion, it is a nice detail to to have the jetted pocket made out of silk or satin, depending on what you used for your lapels.

The next time you are wearing a coat with peaked lapels, try to tuck the flaps in and ask yourself whether it looks more elegant that way—chances are it will.

 

6 replies
  1. Cyril Strideforth-Knickerbocker
    Cyril Strideforth-Knickerbocker says:

    Upon hanging away my jacket in the evening, I very often find that I have happend to tuck in the flaps of the pockets without really being aware of having done so. I think this may be as a result of having rummaged around for something in the pocket och perhaps resting one’s hand in it, as I am always removing the stitching usually fastening the pockets shut when bought of the peg.
    Whatever the reason, I have also reflected on if it doesn’t actually look more elegant without a flap over the pocket, so thank you very much for your information on the jetted pockets belonging to the peaked lapel style of a more formal jacket!
    I think I will continue to tuck in my pocket flaps even on notched lapel jackets as I think it makes for a slimmer, less accentuated hip of the jacket.
    Best Regards,
    Cyril Strideforth-Knickerbocker
    Cyril Stridefort-Knickerbocker

    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      You are very welcome. Often, flaps wrinkle, when they are tucked in for a while and hence bespoke tailors often cut them in a way so they won’t do that. Off the peg, I have not seen that. Jetted pockets will always have a cleaner look, no matter what lapel they are paired with.

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