Men’s Swimwear Guide – Bathing Suits for Gentlemen

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When it’s hot outside, few things feel as good as diving into cold water. However, it can be a challenge to find swimwear that suits your body, the local culture, and your personal comfort level. With these concerns in mind, we’ve put together our best tips and guidelines on how to find the right swimwear to make you look like a gentleman at the beach, pool, or lake.

As we mentioned above, the standard for men’s swimwear varies largely by region. In the US, trunks have been the most popular style for almost a century, but in Europe or South America, shorter and tight-fitting swimwear, also known as speedos or briefs, is much more popular. To understand where all of these styles came from, then, let’s take a look at some history. 

A History Of Men’s Swimwear, from the 1870s to Today

Prior to the 1870s, swimwear for men was as minimal as could be: nothing at all. Yes, you heard right; it was common practice for men to swim in the nude. The first modern record we have of swimwear is in an 1869 painting by Frédéric Bazille. Even though it’s 150 years old, the styles of swimwear depicted look remarkably similar to what we wear today. Of course, fashion was already becoming important back then, and so swimwear styles would continue to change throughout the decades. 

Frédéric Bazille's Summer Scene 1869, Oil on canvas Fogg Art Museum, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Frédéric Bazille’s “Summer Scene,” 1869. Oil on canvas. Courtesy: Fogg Art Museum, Cambridge, Massachusetts

In the 1910s, men wore “tank suits” that would cover most of the torso, often in solid, dark colors and sometimes incorporating a skirt (yes, really!). Eventually, the upper-body portion of the swimsuit fell away, as having a tan became more desirable; it represented that you could pursue leisurely activities as a gentleman. Interestingly, prior to the 1930s, a tan was often associated with lower-class workers who had to labor outside, whereas the gentry would remain pale and white. Sometimes, people would even resort to taking arsenic pills to remain pale. 

Arne Borg - Swim World Record holder in the 1920s
Arne Borg , swimming world record holder of the 1920s, in a tank suit

In the 1940s, fabric shortages across the board led to swimwear becoming shorter and tighter in order to save cloth. However, variety returned in the 1950s, when the middle-class American man demanded more options. This was a time of “miracle fibers” such as lycra and nylon, which were all-new and became the rage in swimwear. The 1960s marked the introduction of speedos in Australia, and the ’70s went even further, with bolder colors and different cloths, such as terry cloth or baby corduroy

1980s swim trunks
1980s swim trunks

If you look at ads from the 1990s, you can see that longer and baggier “board shorts” were the big trend. No matter if the brand was Calvin Klein or Tommy Hilfiger, the swimsuits were all long, oversized, and oftentimes styled with surfers in mind. 

Classic Swimwear Options for Men

The "mankini" made famous by the movie "Borat" - definitely NOT a stylish option
The “mankini” made famous by the movie “Borat” – definitely NOT a stylish option

Well, first of all, you can wear a “Borat” swimsuit! No, of course we’re kidding–the so-called “mankini” is (in our opinion) a style that should never be worn. 

Briefs

In all seriousness, then: the first option we’ll highlight today is that of briefs. They’re not much different in construction from the type of underwear with which they share a name, and in the wold of swimwear, they’re the tightest-fitting option for men. Usually, briefs will have just a one- or two-inch inseam, or sometimes none at all. Just think of Daniel Craig in Casino Royale, that’s exactly what I’m talking about. 

Men's Swimwear Guide
Daniel Craig wearing brief-style swimwear

Speedo/European Swimsuit

Now, if you take the brief style and use even less fabric, so that more of your thigh becomes visible, you’ll be left with the classic Speedo (or European swimsuit shape). My father is originally from Brazil and now lives in Germany, and he loves to wear this kind of swimwear. Personally, I’m not the biggest fan of it. 

Peter Travis and Speedo Swim brief
Peter Travis (at left) and a man wearing Speedo swim briefs (at right)

Swim Trunks

In our view, a much better–and at the same time, classic–option is that of swim trunks. They usually reach the mid-thigh, with about five to six inches to their inseam. Trunks have some room in the thigh, are not too tight but not too wide, and often close with a button, elastic, Velcro, or a tieable drawstring.

Ralph Lauren 5½-Inch Traveler Swim Trunk
Ralph Lauren 5½-Inch Traveler Swim Trunk

Board Shorts

The final option we’ll highlight today is that of board shorts. They’re typically longer and fuller in cut, and will sometimes have cargo pockets. Overall, they’re a more youthful style, and one we wouldn’t recommend for the majority of men. 

Board shorts often feature a baggy cut and cargo pockets
Board shorts often feature a baggy cut and cargo pockets

What Type Of Swimswear Suits Your Body Type Best?

So what style of swimsuit, what pattern, and what colors are right for you? Well, let’s start with two factors: your height and your build. Why are those two so important? Factoring these measurements in when selecting a swimsuit will help to balance your natural proportions. 

Tall & Thin swim shorts
Tall, thin men will benefit from horizontal stripes and longer inseams

We’ll start with some advice for slimmer men: a pair of horizontally striped shorts can help you look more muscular. In general, avoid vertical stripes because they’ll make you look even thinner, as will briefs or Speedos. As a tall man, you’ll want to skip Speedos or briefs, because they’ll make you look boyish, and won’t work to counterbalance your overall height. Now, if you’re a man of average height, lucky you! You can basically choose any type of swimwear that suits your style. A classic look would involve trunks, though a shorter style could work, as well.

Big & Tall swimsuits
Bigger men will do well with vertical stripes and longer inseams

Conversely, if you’re a gentleman with a bigger build, we’d suggest you go with trunks in darker colors and/or smaller micro patterns. Alternatively, vertical stripes can help to slim you down. When in doubt, size up your swim trunks, so that the waistband won’t cut into your stomach (which, in addition to being uncomfortable, will also make you look even bigger). Also, avoid cargo pockets, because that will just make you look wider. 

Short & Thin swim trunks
Short & Thin swim trunks

Finally here, shorter men should always avoid shorts that are too long, because such styles will just emphasize a lack of height. Always stick with an inseam that is shorter than 5-6 inches, so as to create the visual illusion of a long leg line. The bottom line for all men’s swimwear, though, is this: just like in many other areas of classic menswear, it pays to stay in the middle and avoid the extremes. 

Great Colors For Classic Swimwear

Personally, I find that blue (including navy or lighter blues), red, and green, are great options for classic men’s swimwear. While yellow is a summery color, it may have a tendency to show what’s underneath the suit, and it will also become dirty more quickly. Pastel tones of turquoise or green can work quite well, too. Of course, the color of your suit is just one element; a pattern, such as a candy stripe, can be very advantageous, as can a checked pattern, a herringbone, or a micropattern. A more preppy take on swimwear incorporates the theme of “Go to Hell” pants–usually an embroidery or print of some kind, and often nautically inspired, such as anchors or maybe a crab. Of course, solid swim shorts always work, especially in darker colors. 

Catalinas men's swimsuit selection 1950
Catalinas men’s swimsuit selection, 1950

In recent years, bold artistic prints and over-the-top color schemes have become increasingly popular. We advise that you stay away from such styles, because they can come off as deliberately attention-seeking. On that note…

Swimwear Do’s & Don’ts

  • Don’t take swimwear trends too seriously. They rarely flatter most men, and at the end of the day, they’re just fashion-forward. Instead, rather choose something that works for you, your body type, and your comfort level. 
  • Don’t hide behind overly baggy and full-cut swimwear. You may be a little embarrassed about not having a six-pack, but at the end of the day, wearing baggy shorts will make you look more sloppy, accentuate your flaws, and not bring out the best in you.
  • Do be kind to yourself. I know that we probably all see our own flaws more clearly than other people do. However, that doesn’t mean that you can’t find a swimsuit that flatters you. Keep in mind, the whole point of choosing the right swimwear is that no matter what shape you’re in, you will still look put together and well-framed.
Swimwear that screams "insecure"
Swimwear that screams “insecure”
  • Don’t buy a swimsuit with a huge logo or brand name on it. This just shows that you’re a bit insecure, that you want to show off, or that you can spend money on your swimwear. Rather than investing in big logos, put your money into something that flatters your physique.
  • Do stock up on swimwear if you find a model that you really like. Swimwear often goes in and out of style, and a few years down the line when your favorite swimwear needs to be replaced, the same style may not be available anymore. That being said, keep in mind that you will likely wear your swim trunks with much lower frequency than you do your other clothes, and because of that, they should last longer.
  • Don’t buy light-colored swimsuits. White, ivory, off white, or tan swimwear isn’t advisable, for the same reasons as we gave for yellow above; these colors will show what’s underneath, they will get dirty, and they’ll just look old and worn out very quickly.
Check the material tag when buying swimwear
  • Do check the material tag before you buy. Most swimwear these days is made out of polyester, which is inexpensive but also ages quickly. Nylon is usually a better option, because it lasts longer. Personally, I also like blends of cotton and nylon, because cotton by itself soaks up too much water. Cotton-nylon blends have a nice hand, feel good on your skin, and dry quickly. Typically, board shorts or swim trunks always have a liner on the inside. We’ve found that no matter what brand you choose, they’re always made out of 100% polyester.
  • Do rinse out your swimsuit after every wear. No matter if you’re at the pool or the ocean, irritants like salt and chlorine will wear out your fabrics. If you rinse them after each wear, they will last a lot longer.
  • Do try on your swimsuit. Do yourself a favor: try on each swimwear option you’re considering, rather than just going by the size tag. This is especially useful when comparing offerings from different brands.

Where Can You Find Classically Styled Swimwear?

Personally, most of my swimsuits come from Ralph Lauren, because they have a really nice range of classic patterns and colors that just suit my style. On top of that, it seems like a lot of their cuts are inspired by vintage garments. High-end brands like Orlebar Brown or Vilebrequin produce expensive and fashion-forward swimwear, and while it may suit your style, their offerings are usually cut very slim.

Ralph Lauren often sells swim trunks featuring classic colors and patterns
Ralph Lauren often sells swim trunks featuring classic colors and patterns

If you’re all about function and less about style, check out Patagonia, which really focuses on the tech–but to me, they look more dated. If you’ve followed us for a bit, you know that we like smaller brands as well, because of the passion and thought that they put into their products. Brands I look into include Castaway (which offers preppy, “go-to-hell” inspired swim trunks) and Coast Society.

What’s your go-to swimwear choice? We would love to hear from you!

Reader Comments

  1. Great job with the swimwear topic.I have had a few too many hibiscus prints in the past. Today I can only look at the water but a Ralph Lauren loose fit short with a vintage Lacoste worked well when I was young and works well today.

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