Pitti Uomo 83

Pitti Uomo 83 Do’s & Don’ts in 2013

In the past, I have always provided some coverage of Pitti Uomo in Florence – the semi-annual tradeshow which has now evolved into a catwalk for the well dressed, over dressed & male peacocks of the fashion world. Once again, we are going to focus on a number of outfits for some inspiration.

Colors for Winter

Of course, Pitti Uomo without the colorful outfits of Lino would be like cake without frosting. Lino is well aware of this, and he has to come up with something new twice a year. This time, he chose a double breasted paletot in a light turquoise cloth with a brown windowpane and matching velvet collar. While I like the color very much, it is certainly not for everybody. When you select such an eyecatcher, the other parts of the outfit should be toned down but Lino did quite the opposite and added a plaid jacket in a similar color, a yellow tie and colored-shoe soles. Obviously the shoes were not worn often prior to Pitti. Personally, I prefer the look of Mr Renato Plutino in this picture, who wear a similar jacket but the navy paletot is much less pretentious.

Peacock style

Peacock style

Lino Ieluzzi and Renato Plutino

Lino Ieluzzi and Renato Plutino

Mottled fabrics are always unique because no contrast thread is at the same place and for that reason they are fantastic for casual wear. Personally, I don’t fancy the look of unfinished hats, which is what the person here is wearing. Do’s: mottled fabrics and windowpanes but don’t mix if with other colors so you look like a peacock.

Mottled DB Sportscoat in Blue

Mottled DB Sportscoat in Blue

An interesting combination of blue and brown is presented in the following picture. The soft wool or cashmere tie is nothing new but if you look closely, you will see that the shirt collar was cut for a summer shirt that is generally worn without a neckwear. Personally, I don’t like the thick winter tie with the summer shirt – it looks out of place. Also, the look of gloves and glasses in the chest pocket is so omnipresent that any hint of sprezzatura is long gone. Do wear blue or brown but don’t wear summer shirts in the winter and don’t wear your gloves, glasses and pen in your chest pocket – one item – if at all – is enough.

Glasses & Gloves in the chest pocket are omnipresent - note the summer shirt collar with winter outfit

Glasses & Gloves in the chest pocket are omnipresent – note the summer shirt collar with winter outfit

White for Winter

Ususally, white or off-white are predominantly seen in summer, but some gents also favor it during the colder months of the year. This older chap to the right combines it with three different shades of grey and brown double monks.

White & Grey in January

White & Grey in January

Some even wear an off white suit in the winter – here with denim colored shirt and mid brown knit tie. Do’s: despite traditional rules that suggest otherwise, white for winter works if it is a thicker flannel but keep in mind that you pick up dirt very easily and stained clothes are never desirable.

White for Winter

White for Winter

Off white overcoat with plaid sportscoat & red turtleneck sweater

Off white overcoat with plaid sportscoat & red turtleneck sweater

Just look at t this older gentleman in red. His turtleneck is obviously the centerpiece with the plaid jacket displaying just a hint of red and the overcoat a bit of beige. I think the trousers in navy or brown would have looked even better, but it is still an interesting look. If you pick a colorful accent piece, combine it with more muted, solid colors and one pattern – the overall look will be more elegant than if you start mixing colors and patterns together.

Double Breasted All the Way

Double breasted jackets and overcoats are definitely popular right now, no matter whether in a modern interpretation of a classic DB vest look or as a peacoat variation. Do’s: Combinations with a double vest & hat plus DB overcoats because they keep you warmer

David Gandy in Mid Grey Flannel with DB Vest & Navy Pants

David Gandy in Mid Grey Flannel with DB Vest & Navy Pants

Mid brown Peacoat, skinny olive khaki pants, contrasting sockls

Mid brown Peacoat, skinny olive khaki pants, contrasting sockls

Glasses & Gloves in the chest pocket are omnipresent - note the summer shirt collar with winter outfit

Glasses & Gloves in the chest pocket are omnipresent – note the summer shirt collar with winter outfit

Navy Overcoats

Despite all the mottled fabric and at times fancy colors, the simple, solid navy overcoat never goes out of style and can be worn in the evening with a tuxedo, at a business meeting or at Pitti Uomo. Do’s: If you have not already done so,  invest in a navy overcoat, it will be one of the most versatile garments you own. Also, try to mix blue and mid-grays if you want to create a classic look that is noticeable.

Ignatious Joseph in Chesterfield Coat

Ignatious Joseph in Chesterfield Coat

Blue Overcoat & Grey Pants, Socks & Smoke

Blue Overcoat & Grey Pants, Socks & Smoke

Overdressed outfits

Of course if you want to standout from the crowd of clothes horses you have to choose extaordinary cuts, colors or materials. As you know, more is not always better. That being said, I think it is great to see this chap wearing breeks since it is difficult for most men to wear them otherwise, especially in densely populated areas where hikes and hunts are simply not possible.

Forest Green Coat, Brown Corduroy Breeks, Bow Tie, Argyle Socks & Cap

Forest Green Coat, Brown Corduroy Breeks, Bow Tie, Argyle Socks & Cap

In this picture, only the volume of the scarf is over the top – at least it is functional and keeps you warm. Chalk stripes are usually not combined with more modest scarves, which is why he probably chose it. Not my cup of tea, but I have a weakness for chalk stripes and windowpanes – aren’t they marvelous?

David Retzlaff in Navy Chalk Stripe & Scard

David Retzlaff in Navy Chalk Stripe & Scard

Cloth à la Casentino have become increasingly popular over the last year. This example has extremely peaked lapels and in combination with the hat it looks more comical than dapper. Do branch out into different textures for overcoats, but don’t overdo it with the cut of the coat, including the lapels.

Casentino Cloth with Extremely Peaked Lapels

Casentino Cloth with Extremely Peaked Lapels

I absolutely understand that there is a need for cargo pants even though we – the pants and I – never got along. There maybe some craftsmen, fishermen etc. who fill up their pockets with stuff, though if that’s the case a tailored jacket is inappropriate and hence the combination of the two looks just wrong to me. Don’t wear cargo pants with jackets.

Cargo Pants don't work with a jacket imho

Cargo Pants don’t work with a jacket imho

This chap obviously put quite some effort into his outfit and with his long torso, short quilted vest, matching baseball hat, plus twos and yellow shoes he looks a bit goofy to say the least.

Plus Fours & Quilted Vest

Plus Fours & Quilted Vest

The next person is even more eccentric, wearing faux snakeskin pants with fur and bold jewelry but he certainly seems to be an interesting character I’d love to have a conversation with.

Snakeskin Pants & Fur

Snakeskin Pants & Fur

On the other hand, the last outfit of Ildo Damiano makes me a little sad because he obviously defines himself through Louis Vuitton and forgets that the robe is more suited to your home rather than a fashion show. To me this is the epitomy of a fashion / brand victim.

Brand Victim

Ildo Damiano – Brand Victim

Which outfits do you envy the most, and why?

Picture Credit: Tommy Tonstyle.itleeoliveira.comdowneastandoutWGSN

16 replies
  1. Ahmed Sajeel
    Ahmed Sajeel says:

    What is happening here … this has been to be one of the most uninspiring Pitti Uomo in recent memory. “A bit of flair” is being understood as all out exhibitionism.

    The foundation of it all being ’30’s inspired classic style is fast spinning off into yet another fad … And that to me is a good thing because it will again tell the boys from the men.

    Now, Mr. Ielluzi and Mr. Renato Plutino are wearing identical jackets, pants and shirts. But what distinguishes Mr. Plutino are the tie and the paletot … Mr. Ielluzi on the other hand is trying too hard to live up to a reputation, rather than for a taste which may strike as all his own. Apparently he was compelled the next day to don a shepphard’s check paletot atop a windowpane suit … enough said I suppose.

    My dear Raphael, notwithstanding our fondness for or whether we approve of it or not; checks / plaids / windowpanes have become dreadfully “fashionable” !!!

    Ironically, this is where I think Mr. Luca Rubinacci and Mr. Lapo Elkaan score higher despite their eccentric and infrequent over-the-top displays. Those generally do not appear forced unlike this bigger majority of unfortunately attired gentlemen above.

    Ah and my favourite outfit would be of the oriental-looking gentleman in “Blue Overcoat, Grey Pants … Socks and Smoke”. He would be equally tasteful in 1935 or 2035 !!!

    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      When looking at these pictures, it might seem as windowpanes are omnipresent but if you walk through the streets in New York, Naples or Milan you rarely see them and I suppose the same is true for most other cities in the world. The bulk of suits and jackets worn by men around the world is still dominated by dark solids and hence I don’t think it is bad that we plaids are now more in style – I will always wear them, no matter what fashion dictates because I like them and they are part of my style.
      I really like the look of mid grey and blue as well and should wear it more often together.

  2. Thanik
    Thanik says:

    Great article, Sven. I enjoy how in-depth it is–I would not notice the summer shirt collar if you did not point it out, and I agree with you.

    Also, I fell in love with the way David Retzlaff wore his scarf. As you said, it would be perfect if the scarf was not as bulky.

    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Thanik, I am glad you appreciate my eye for details, thanks! In all of our articles, we always try to provide insights you don’t find otherwise and we put a particular effort into guides, so make sure to check these out as well!

  3. Ahmed Sajeel
    Ahmed Sajeel says:

    Quite the point I was making … one’s clothing is an expression of self and should be driven more by taste rather than the pressure of fads and fashion

  4. Park Jacobs Weatheby
    Park Jacobs Weatheby says:

    Once again Mr Schneider a truly great article and wealth of knowledge fashion wise…I just recently purchase a navy overcoat and was concerned that because of the colour that it’s use would be limited, but after reading your article those fears have been put aside!

  5. lendyl
    lendyl says:

    I like the blue soft wool and cashmere tie with the brown, the most! The combination of the colors, patterns and fabric are excellent! The contrast presented using the summer shirt makes the look more balanced since a real winter shirt would have made it very heavy and overwhelming.

    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Why would a regular turndown collar make the shirt be overwhelming? I am not sure why you say winter shirt but even that would be more balanced since it is winter. This collar is designed to be worn without a tie and hence I am puzzled why you consider it to be more balanced?

  6. Duncan
    Duncan says:

    I absolutely love the fabric of the blue jacket (or perhaps it’s a coat) worn by the chap in glasses (with the gloves and a second pair of glasses in the pocket).

    I absolutely hate this current fashion for wearing trousers which are too short, or rolling up the cuffs to make them too short. I hate it even more when it’s worn without socks, as in the picture of the chap in the cargo pants. It’s even worse then wearing them too long, as modelled by the “brand victim”, which otherwise I might not have thought possible… I’m really not a fan of the “too tight” look either, which also seems to retain its entirely mystifying popularity for another season. The combination of both makes a man look like a schoolboy suffering a dramatic growth spurt.

    As to full outfits, I’d have to say that Mr Gandy is the unquestionable winner here – assuming that his trousers are the right length. Surely nobody could bear to ruin such an outfit by hemming the trousers too short?

  7. Frankie
    Frankie says:

    I’ve just discovered your site thanks to a Facebook friend and I am enjoying it (and the Gentlemen of Style ebook as well). What strikes me about these photos is that you can get away with pretty much anything as long as you have the right attitude. Even though Snakeskin Pants & Fur Guy’s outfit is objectively ludicrous, he’s owning it, and I think he looks “right.” The poor guy in the last photo, on the other hand, looks like he wandered away from the nursing home.

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  1. […] other day, I discussed a few trends and outfits from the 83rd  Pitti Uomo in Florence. While the general public is likely to focus on youthful trends and cuts, I thought it […]

  2. […] wie Studenten des 3. Lebensabschnitts. Dazu gibt es in der Gentlemen´s Gazette einen sehr kundigen Bericht mit Bildergalerie des Schreckens zu sehen. Fehlt nur noch, dass der Pitti-Mann uns seinen Pippi-Mann […]

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