Pitti Uomo 83 Do’s & Don’ts in 2013
In the past, I have always provided some coverage of Pitti Uomo in Florence – the semi-annual tradeshow which has now evolved into a catwalk for the well dressed, over dressed & male peacocks of the fashion world. Once again, we are going to focus on a number of outfits for some inspiration.
Colors for Winter
Of course, Pitti Uomo without the colorful outfits of Lino would be like cake without frosting. Lino is well aware of this, and he has to come up with something new twice a year. This time, he chose a double breasted paletot in a light turquoise cloth with a brown windowpane and matching velvet collar. While I like the color very much, it is certainly not for everybody. When you select such an eyecatcher, the other parts of the outfit should be toned down but Lino did quite the opposite and added a plaid jacket in a similar color, a yellow tie and colored-shoe soles. Obviously the shoes were not worn often prior to Pitti. Personally, I prefer the look of Mr Renato Plutino in this picture, who wear a similar jacket but the navy paletot is much less pretentious.
Mottled fabrics are always unique because no contrast thread is at the same place and for that reason they are fantastic for casual wear. Personally, I don’t fancy the look of unfinished hats, which is what the person here is wearing. Do’s: mottled fabrics and windowpanes but don’t mix if with other colors so you look like a peacock.
An interesting combination of blue and brown is presented in the following picture. The soft wool or cashmere tie is nothing new but if you look closely, you will see that the shirt collar was cut for a summer shirt that is generally worn without a neckwear. Personally, I don’t like the thick winter tie with the summer shirt – it looks out of place. Also, the look of gloves and glasses in the chest pocket is so omnipresent that any hint of sprezzatura is long gone. Do wear blue or brown but don’t wear summer shirts in the winter and don’t wear your gloves, glasses and pen in your chest pocket – one item – if at all – is enough.
White for Winter
Ususally, white or off-white are predominantly seen in summer, but some gents also favor it during the colder months of the year. This older chap to the right combines it with three different shades of grey and brown double monks.
Some even wear an off white suit in the winter – here with denim colored shirt and mid brown knit tie. Do’s: despite traditional rules that suggest otherwise, white for winter works if it is a thicker flannel but keep in mind that you pick up dirt very easily and stained clothes are never desirable.
Just look at t this older gentleman in red. His turtleneck is obviously the centerpiece with the plaid jacket displaying just a hint of red and the overcoat a bit of beige. I think the trousers in navy or brown would have looked even better, but it is still an interesting look. If you pick a colorful accent piece, combine it with more muted, solid colors and one pattern – the overall look will be more elegant than if you start mixing colors and patterns together.
Double Breasted All the Way
Double breasted jackets and overcoats are definitely popular right now, no matter whether in a modern interpretation of a classic DB vest look or as a peacoat variation. Do’s: Combinations with a double vest & hat plus DB overcoats because they keep you warmer
Despite all the mottled fabric and at times fancy colors, the simple, solid navy overcoat never goes out of style and can be worn in the evening with a tuxedo, at a business meeting or at Pitti Uomo. Do’s: If you have not already done so, invest in a navy overcoat, it will be one of the most versatile garments you own. Also, try to mix blue and mid-grays if you want to create a classic look that is noticeable.
Of course if you want to standout from the crowd of clothes horses you have to choose extaordinary cuts, colors or materials. As you know, more is not always better. That being said, I think it is great to see this chap wearing breeks since it is difficult for most men to wear them otherwise, especially in densely populated areas where hikes and hunts are simply not possible.
In this picture, only the volume of the scarf is over the top – at least it is functional and keeps you warm. Chalk stripes are usually not combined with more modest scarves, which is why he probably chose it. Not my cup of tea, but I have a weakness for chalk stripes and windowpanes – aren’t they marvelous?
Cloth à la Casentino have become increasingly popular over the last year. This example has extremely peaked lapels and in combination with the hat it looks more comical than dapper. Do branch out into different textures for overcoats, but don’t overdo it with the cut of the coat, including the lapels.
I absolutely understand that there is a need for cargo pants even though we – the pants and I – never got along. There maybe some craftsmen, fishermen etc. who fill up their pockets with stuff, though if that’s the case a tailored jacket is inappropriate and hence the combination of the two looks just wrong to me. Don’t wear cargo pants with jackets.
This chap obviously put quite some effort into his outfit and with his long torso, short quilted vest, matching baseball hat, plus twos and yellow shoes he looks a bit goofy to say the least.
The next person is even more eccentric, wearing faux snakeskin pants with fur and bold jewelry but he certainly seems to be an interesting character I’d love to have a conversation with.
On the other hand, the last outfit of Ildo Damiano makes me a little sad because he obviously defines himself through Louis Vuitton and forgets that the robe is more suited to your home rather than a fashion show. To me this is the epitomy of a fashion / brand victim.
Which outfits do you envy the most, and why?