Pitti Uomo 83 & Seasoned Gentlemen
The other day, I discussed a few trends and outfits from the 83rd Pitti Uomo in Florence. While the general public is likely to focus on youthful trends and cuts, I thought it was time to take a closer look at the outfits of the more seasoned gentlemen. More often than not, their outfits are a bit more reserved and more wearable in everyday life. Without a doubt, this whole event is a show and most men – including the veterans – want to be recognized for their style, which in itself is anything but stylish. Nevertheless, certain trends are set on this kind of international stage, and I am sure we will see one fashion choice or another spread over the coming year.
You might not believe it, but there are actually some men at Pitti Uomo who dress in an old school way. Giancarlo Maresca below wears a chalk stripe navy suit with a solid dark blue overcoat, a solid shirt, a red patterned tie, a brown scarf and a light grey felt fedora with a contrasting brown hat band and dark brown gloves. In combination with his horn glasses, it is very classic and old school without calling for attention. The gentleman on the left wears a great DB navy overcoat and a Homburg hat in a stunning color combination. The bow tie is large but works with the outfit, while the red gloves and orange case are a bit too bright to be considered old school.
Black & white is the right format for this picture – it can’t get more old school than that.
From a distance, this outfit looks very traditional, and once you get closer you see all the patterns: the plaid overcoat, the tartan tie and the tattersall shirt. It looks a bit like he is trying too hard, but on the other hand, this is more subdued than many outfits the Prince of Wales sported in the thirties. The briefcase is too much in my opinion, but each to his own.
For many men, their age does not keep them from going wearing bold colors, trendy cuts and huge patterns in a modern way. Nick Wooster is one of them, showcasing his supersize plaid suit in this picture. Despite all that, he is always very careful about his color coordination.
Michael Macko, the curator of Mrket, is always fashion conscious; he pulled off a gray suit with bold red stripes and a matching stole. There were quite a few men that wore these large scarves, but Michael was the only one who matched! It certainly made him stand out from the crowd.
This person put together an outfit in all blue – not very creative but is works for him.
This way he wears his hair works for him, but not many could pull it off. For my taste, his combination is a little bit too dark, but he clearly was focused on bringing together different textures.
Personally, I am not a great fan of knit hats unless I am on the slopes, but it certainly makes you look a bit more youthful.
We saw this character at the last Pitti with the same colorful glasses. This time, he added more bold colors and mirrored sunglasses à la Top Gun – he reminds me more of a Christmas tree designed by Hundertwasser or Gaudi rather than an deliberate outfit.
Others wore classically inspired outfits with a slight twist that grounded them in tradition but freshened the overall look. The gentleman below opted for a classic mottled gray herringbone suit with a club collar shirt, a collar pin and a plaid tie. However, the watch strap clearly breaks with the old school look and it suits him well.
During the twenties, spats and canes were a wardrobe staple of elegant gentleman. Ever since, they have yet to return to fashionable status, and hence they give outfits a vintage look at best and a costume-y feel at the worst. In any case, it is a way to stand out from the crowd, if that’s what you are after.
The same gentleman, interestingly, does not wear a traditional suit. Just look at the buttoning point of the coat and how high it is positioned. The classic 4×1 Kent Fasson is located considerably lower and this look breaks with the vintage silhouette and is something I would expect from a designer.
Personally, I don’t like the look of this color combination – the browns are too different to harmonize, but not different enough to create a good a amount of contrast.
This green outfit is probably my favorite: it is different, yet subtle, harmonizing and it underlines the character of this person with the bold glasses and individual haircut without screaming for attention.
Navy chalk stripe suits are classic and can be combined with many things. Personally, I like the upgrade with grey mother of pearl buttons more than the red socks, but suede shoes are always a good option.
Great look. Sophisticated, well combined.
Overcoats look better with scarves, gloves and a hat. That aside, I adore both of these overcoats because they are double breasted and they are tailored of interesting fabrics without being bold.
Interesting mix of gray and pastel red, though a gaping collar will always make you look poorly put together.
Interesting combination of black and white - I adore the large scale pattern of the jacket but I would probably wear it differently, maybe with a tie in a better contrasting fabric or color palette.
Last but not least, here are two examples of men who tried to hard to look relaxed. To me, it seems like they spent 2 hours putting together their outfit and they just wait outside to take a call in the hope someone will take a picture of them. Personally, I am not fond of this style at all, what do you think?
These mirrored sunglasses remind me bad 80′s pilot trends, but like so many things in fashion these return every other decade…
Overall, it seems to me like the more seasoned gentlemen did not dress as flamboyantly as many younger chaps, although you always have to bear in mind everybody wants to impress with individual style at events like Pitti. I venture to guess that older men are more interested in pleasing themselves than in putting on a show, but it’s hard to generalize about Pitti’s fashion-focused attendees!
What is your favorite outfit and why?