“Budget” Cashmere: Myth or Magic? (Uniqlo, Everlane, & More)

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When you consider that cashmere is one of the original luxury fabrics, it can immediately seem like the concept of “budget” cashmere is a great contender for our “Myth or Magic” series. So today, we find out if the reduced prices that come along with it really are money-saving magic or just a myth that’s a mere waste of cash.

What’s the Hype Around Cashmere?

You’ve likely heard of cashmere before given that it’s often touted for its decadent texture and incredible softness and hushed tones of reverent wonder. We cover the subject of cashmere fully in our comprehensive Cashmere Explained guide, but it will be helpful for today’s topic to go over some basics.

Cashmere refers, generally, to both the fibers and the fabrics that are constructed from the fleece of cashmere-producing goats. This fleece consists of two parts: the extremely fine and delicate down layer and the thicker and rougher guard hairs.

Cashmere scarves up close (Pictured: Black Watch Tartan Cashmere Scarf – Green Blue Military from Fort Belvedere)
Cashmere scarves up close (Pictured: Black Watch Tartan Cashmere Scarf – Green Blue Military from Fort Belvedere)

According to standards set by the US government to define cashmere, the average diameter of each fiber must be less than 19 microns. As a comparison, the average human hair is about 100 microns across. Also, according to these regulations, the final product cannot contain more than 3%, by weight, of fibers that are 30 microns or greater in diameter.

Cashmere is also graded by letter in these cases with a C-grade coming in at around 30 microns in diameter, a B-grade at around 19 microns, and an A-grade at 14 to 16 microns. However, these gratings aren’t universally standardized, so they can be misleading unless densities are given as well. 

Cashmere Scarf for Men in Blue Herringbone Pattern 72 x 12 inches – Fort Belvedere
Cashmere Scarf for Men in Blue Herringbone Pattern 72 x 12 inches – Fort Belvedere

Cashmere is noted for being both soft, yet durable and insulating, yet not stuffy. As such, it’s a very popular material in the construction of various garments and accessories, including sweaters, vests, robes, scarves, ties, socks, and even luxury suits.

Cashmere is also extremely rare as each year, worldwide, only 20,000 tons of cashmere are produced compared to 2 million tons of wool and 25 million tons of cotton.

Why is cashmere so rare, then? Well, in simplest terms, it’s difficult to make because it must come from a specific type of goat that’s raised in specific areas and climate conditions. How the cashmere is harvested also matters and this harvesting falls into two main methods: the combing method and the shearing method.

Combing Method

In the combing method, special rakes are run through the fleece of the cashmere goats because the down layer is shed naturally; raking picks up the down hairs and leaves almost all of the more coarse guard hairs behind.

A woman combing a cashmere goat; special rakes are run through the goat’s fleece. [Credit: Middleton Place]
A woman combing a cashmere goat; special rakes are run through the goat’s fleece. [Credit: Middleton Place]

Shearing Method

In the shearing method, both the down layer and the guard hairs are taken off at the same time, and, as you might imagine, this co-mingling increases the number of guard hairs in the finished product, so the final product will be rougher because the guard hairs are more coarse.

As you might expect, then, the combing method is much more time and labor-intensive, but it will produce a quality of cashmere that is higher than that produced by the shearing method.

Quality has a cost, though, and high-end cashmere products often retail for hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Typically, a cashmere scarf will set you back around $175, a sweater around $450, and a suit around $2,500.

A cashmere goat being sheared; the down layer and the guard hairs are taken off simultaneously. [Credit: CashmereAustralia]
A cashmere goat being sheared; the down layer and the guard hairs are taken off simultaneously. [Credit: CashmereAustralia]

Traditional advertising has usually leaned into these high costs, trumpeting cashmere as a luxurious fabric that’s worth the high price. But, in recent decades, the phenomenon of “budget” cashmere has made its way into the fashion scene.

This marketing asserts that the cashmere in question is budget-friendly and affordable, while still being just as luxurious. So, the main question today is: “Is it possible to have your cashmere cake and eat it too?”

“Budget” Cashmere Retailers Tactics

Let’s find out whether “budget” cashmere is myth or magic by investigating “budget” cashmere retailers, how they describe their cashmere products, including what they do and don’t tell you as the consumer. As a control, we’re going to be focusing on the classic V-neck cashmere sweater.

1. Lack of Fiber Information

We’ll start with Japanese retailer Uniqlo, which often positions itself as the premier producer of casual, but stylish menswear at budget-conscious prices. Their cashmere sweater is no exception as it costs just under $100 and we’re told that it’s made from 100% cashmere and nothing else.

In other words, no information is provided about where the cashmere was sourced, which method was used to harvest it. The thickness or length of the fibers or how the cashmere was spun.

Uniqlo isn’t alone in providing essentially no information about their sweater, though, as we observed the same trend from J.Crew whose sweater retails at $128, Nordstrom whose sweater retails at $145, and Saks Fifth Avenue, whose sweater retails at $298.

In other words, this is a fairly common tactic among “budget” cashmere retailers, which is to simply state that the product is cashmere and let the consumer think that all cashmere is of the same quality when obviously it isn’t.

Cashmere comes in a variety of textures and can differ in overall quality yet retailers often just remark that the material is cashmere.
Cashmere comes in a variety of textures and can differ in overall quality yet retailers often just remark that the material is cashmere.

Remember that the inherent quality of the individual cashmere fibers is vital to the overall quality of the finished garment. Hairs with a diameter of 14 to 16 and a half microns and length of 33 to 50 millimeters or so can be more tightly woven together.

This will result in a softer fabric that will resist pilling and be less likely to stretch out or tear, and remember that the harvesting method is also important as a comb-harvested cashmere will have considerably fewer guard hairs and be less rough as a result.

Comb-harvested cashmere results in a smoother texture.
Comb-harvested cashmere results in a smoother texture.

If “budget” cashmere producers won’t give you the information you need to make an informed decision, you’re right to be skeptical about how they can offer a supposed quality product at such a comparatively low price.

Their cashmere isn’t necessarily going to be of lower quality but, without evidence to the contrary, you can fairly safely assume that they’ve cut corners somewhere, especially when it comes to the quality of the individual cashmere fibers.

A supposedly higher-end variation on this tactic involves marketing 100% Mongolian cashmere like a sweater from Cashmere 4 U, which retails for $250. The assumption is that all Mongolian cashmere is superlative but, in fact, the same realities apply as even Mongolian goats can produce subpar quality hairs.

An online listing of a Cashmere 4 U cashmere sweater highlights that it’s made of 100% Mongolian cashmere.
An online listing of a Cashmere 4 U cashmere sweater highlights that it’s made of 100% Mongolian cashmere.

The belief that Mongolian cashmere is of innately higher quality than other kinds comes from the fact that Mongolian cashmere is almost always harvested using the combing method rather than the shearing method.

This is, of course, an important aspect, and cashmere that comes from countries like Mongolia, which use primarily the combing method is generally going to be of higher quality, but this is, of course, just one factor to consider.

2. Imprecise Fiber Information

In addition to a lack of information, be mindful as well of imprecise information when it comes to cashmere quality. Another such factor can be observed from noted cashmere producer Naadam.

They emphasize the value of sustainable, ecologically-friendly cashmere sourcing and their website includes a photo gallery all about the virtues of high-quality cashmere. But, on the actual product pages themselves, we’re only told that the cashmere is 100% Mongolian, medium weight, and 12-gauge.

On their website, NAADAM emphasizes sustainability, yet on the product pages, there isn’t much information regarding cashmere.
On their website, NAADAM emphasizes sustainability, yet on the product pages, there isn’t much information regarding cashmere.

“Gauge,” in this context, refers to the number of stitches per inch. Gauge is useful to know for the composition of a garment because it tells us about the density of the weave. However, it doesn’t tell us anything about the quality of the actual cashmere fibers themselves.

On a similar note, sweaters from Club Room, which is a Macy’s label, state that their cashmere is 2-ply. “Ply” refers to how many threads of cashmere were twisted together to form the yarns with the higher the ply of the garment, the more durable it’s going to be.

But, again, neither the “ply” nor the “gauge” is ultimately as important as the length and density of the cashmere fibers themselves, which aren’t mentioned in either of these cases.

Neither NAADAM nor Macy’s Club Room states the length and density of the cashmere fibers on their product pages.
Neither NAADAM nor Macy’s Club Room states the length and density of the cashmere fibers on their product pages.

In these two examples, the “budget” cashmere retailers have given us some good information, but not the information that’s critical. In other words, there are indications here that we are dealing with slightly higher quality cashmere, but nothing definitive.

On their website, popular eco-friendly cashmere retailer Everlane states that their cashmere sweaters are made from grade-A cashmere from inner Mongolia using only the longest and finest fibers at 35 millimeters and 15 microns, respectively.

Unlike most cashmere retailers, Everlane states more information on the cashmere fibers on their product listings.
Unlike most cashmere retailers, Everlane states more information on the cashmere fibers on their product listings.

However, unless someone involved in the production of the garments was sifting through cashmere fibers with tweezers to select individual fibers, the numbers given have to represent a range. Are they averages of length and width? Are they minimum and maximum dimensions? At this point, we can’t safely say.

For a better example, at Fort Belvedere we strive to give you all of the information you need in order to make an informed purchase. Our cashmere is sourced entirely from Mongolia and China and features fibers whose dimensions are between 14 and 16.5 microns in diameter and 35 and 50 millimeters in length. No confusion there.

Let’s go back right to the source, Mongolia, with Gobi, a vertically integrated manufacturer headquartered in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. They also detail their entire production process in an impressive photo gallery display. So far, so good.

In general, Gobi has told us considerably more about their cashmere than many other manufacturers and retailers. But, again, when we navigate to the individual product pages, we see the same vagueness of information that we have before.

3. Blending Fabrics

We also observe another shortcut for “budget” cashmere, that being “blends.”

In order to achieve a price of $159, Gobi sells blended sweaters featuring 70% cashmere and 30% silk. Emphasizing the quality of cashmere as a primary selling point but, then, introducing another fabric to bring down costs is a common tactic among budget cashmere retailers. Common blends feature other types of wool, cotton, silk, or sometimes synthetics.

Cashmere may be blended with other fabrics to achieve “budget” cashmere. (Pictured: Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie in Purple, Petrol Blue, Light Grey Stripe from Fort Belvedere)
Cashmere may be blended with other fabrics to achieve “budget” cashmere. (Pictured: Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie in Purple, Petrol Blue, Light Grey Stripe from Fort Belvedere)

Blends aren’t inherently a bad thing. After all, we do carry several blended products in our Fort Belvedere shop, and Gobi’s blend is much better than some others, which can feature as little as 5% cashmere overall. But, of course, a blend isn’t 100% cashmere. So, one easy way to achieve “budget” cashmere is to sell something that isn’t entirely cashmere.

4. Milling & Manufacturing Hacks

So far, we’ve focused on the traits of the cashmere fabric itself, which is the best way to tell how a cashmere garment will wear and wear down. But, we’ll briefly note that “budget” cashmere producers can also cut corners when it comes to milling and manufacturing.

During milling, cashmere can often undergo processes to mitigate the effects (often poorly) of low-quality cashmere fibers. For instance, many “budget” cashmere products are often specially treated to reduce pilling.

Generally, though, this just means that various chemicals have been applied to the product to fix a problem that wouldn’t have existed in the first place if higher quality fibers had been used.

Tartan-patterned cashmere on an industrial loom. [Credit: Business Insider]
Tartan-patterned cashmere on an industrial loom. [Credit: Business Insider]

“Budget” cashmere is also almost never going to have the finer quality touches that allow high-quality cashmere to really shine, such as the use of natural thistle to roughen up the fibers a bit and give them their soft feel. This procedure is, generally, only undertaken by craftsman-level producers, like Fort belvedere, for instance, when we produce our cashmere scarves.

Meanwhile, “budget” cashmere will usually attempt to approximate this – either by using chemicals, as we already mentioned, or by over washing and, therefore, weakening the fibers in order to rough them up a bit. And whether thinner cashmere or cashmere blends are used to reduce costs, the finished product is usually going to be less durable overall and will probably fall apart more quickly upon repeated wearing.

“Budget” Cashmere, Fast Fashion, and the Environment

In the interest of fairness, we should be clear. Lower quality cashmere isn’t going to feel like sandpaper and it shouldn’t fall apart after just one or two wears. Essentially, their appeal is that they’re going to feel just soft enough and last just long enough to justify their cheaper price tags. 

These are aspects of fast fashion that we’ve discussed previously, such as in our post on the decline of quality menswear. But, the most serious implication of fast fashion and “budget” cashmere, by extension, involves its contribution to throwaway culture and environmental degradation.

For this point, we’ll return to the beginning of it all: cashmere goats. Goats are high-impact grazers. This means that when they eat, they rip up plants and grasses by the root, and also, their sharp hooves dig into the soil.

One consequence of low-quality garments is that they will be thrown away sooner and in greater quantities.
One consequence of low-quality garments is that they will be thrown away sooner and in greater quantities.

Cashmere goats are primarily raised in dry and arid environments like the grasslands of Mongolia and China, which together produce roughly 90% of the world’s cashmere. To reduce costs by increasing the overall supply of cashmere, herders are encouraged to breed large unsustainable flocks.

Put the natural grazing habits of goats, the environment in which cashmere goats are raised, and the size of the flocks together then, and you get an overall situation, which is doing tremendous damage to the environment.

When you combine the natural grazing behaviors of goats with other factors such as their surroundings and flock size, there is a lot of harm to the environment.
When you combine the natural grazing behaviors of goats with other factors such as their surroundings and flock size, there is a lot of harm to the environment.

In Mongolia alone, the boom in cashmere demand that started in the 1980s and continues up to the present day has resulted in the degradation of about 65% of the country’s natural grasslands, turning some of them into barren deserts. This, of course, also has repercussions for the health, well-being, and lives of the country’s local residents in those areas.

Because “budget” cashmere has to cut corners to be cheaper and, therefore, because it will be more likely to pill or tear, it’s also going to be more likely that it will be thrown away more quickly, perpetuating the cycle all over again when new cashmere products are demanded.

By the way, if you are interested in more sustainable sartorial systems overall, you may consult our guide to building a green and sustainable wardrobe.

Our Experiences with “Budget” Cashmere

As a final section here, we’ll share our team’s own personal experiences with “budget” cashmere.

Nathan Price

Nathan owns two “budget” cashmere items – a crewneck sweater from Naadam in oatmeal and a charcoal-colored turtleneck from Uniqlo. In his own words, “I purchased them because the “budget” cashmere marketing got me. I felt that I was getting the same thing as the high-end cashmere on the market.”

Nathan says that he’s had no real issues with either of his sweaters, that both are soft and comfortable, and that he enjoys wearing them as layering pieces in the fall and winter months. As the material of each of them is thin, he tends to treat them gently as opposed to a thick and slubby cardigan, which could be treated more aggressively.

Nathan’s charcoal-colored turtleneck “budget” cashmere sweater from Uniqlo.
Nathan’s charcoal-colored turtleneck “budget” cashmere sweater from Uniqlo.

Nathan says that he would now opt for merino wool or wool blend turtleneck, in particular, because, given that it is worn so close to the skin of his neck, it will require more frequent laundering and probably wear out sooner.

Again quoting Nathan, “I love the softness of the cashmere feel. But, knowing what I know now and as my style has evolved, I plan to look for thicker, more durable sweaters in fisherman styles; maybe with a cable-knit weave, something I can wear more aggressively and not worry about durability.”

Preston Schlueter

Speaking for myself, the one “budget” cashmere item in my wardrobe is this V-neck sweater from Club Room and Macy’s, which I’m wearing today. It has been both comfortable and durable thus far, over about two and a half years of wear. But, again, I only wear it infrequently overall and try to be as gentle with it as I can.

Preston’s berry-colored V-neck “budget” cashmere sweater from Club Room.
Preston’s berry-colored V-neck “budget” cashmere sweater from Club Room.

I do still like the look and feel of it, though the potential environmental impacts of “budget” cashmere will have me thinking twice about similar purchases in the future.

Conclusion: Myth or Magic?

You’re probably not going to be surprised to hear that we believe it lies largely in the “myth” category. Think about it. If what you’re selling at a low price is a low-quality good, that’s effectively like pulling a coin out of your own pocket and expecting someone to react as though you had pulled it out from behind someone else’s ear. Not really much of a magic trick.

As we hope we’ve illustrated in detail today, cashmere isn’t one monolithic fabric and, indeed, comes in ranges of quality. As such, only high-quality cashmere possesses all of the traits that make cashmere so highly valued.

Fort Belvedere gloves with cashmere lining
Fort Belvedere Orange Bronze Rust Suede Men’s Dress Leather Gloves with cashmere lining

It would be genuine magic if “budget” cashmere companies had found a way to drastically reduce the time and labor necessary to produce high-quality cashmere. But, as such, they haven’t really shown us any evidence of this yet.

Overall, then, we’re not going to go so far as to say that you should uniformly refuse buying “budget” cashmere. After all, everyone’s priorities and pocketbooks are different. But, as with most things, remember that you do get what you pay for.

Outfit Rundown

In today’s video, as I mentioned, I’m wearing my own budget cashmere sweater from Club Room and Macy’s in a berry color, which is a shade of purple. The shirt I’m wearing under it is also in a purple shade and a glen check pattern and, while it does have French cuffs, I’m wearing simple black links to fit better under my sweater sleeves.

Preston in his berry-colored v-neck budget cashmere sweater from Club Room (Pictured: Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie in Purple, Petrol Blue, Light Grey Stripe and Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Light Grey and Light Blue from Fort Belvedere)
Preston in his berry-colored v-neck budget cashmere sweater from Club Room
Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie in Purple, Petrol Blue, Light Grey Stripe

Fort Belvedere

Cashmere Wool Grenadine Tie in Purple, Petrol Blue, Light Grey Stripe

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Light Grey and Light Blue Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Light Grey and Light Blue Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

My trousers are gray in color and feature a very subtle checked pattern in their weave and my shoes are also gray. They’re suede derbies from Heinrich Dinkelacker. Rounding out my outfit today are accessories from Fort Belvedere, including my two-toned shadow-striped socks in light blue and gray to harmonize with both my trousers and my tie, which is also from Fort Belvedere. It’s a grenadine model in purple petrol blue and light gray and it’s a blended weave of wool and high-quality cashmere.

For today’s video, we also procured a cashmere v-neck sweater from Uniqlo in a deep red color, which you’re seeing here. It feels similar to my Club Room model overall. It maybe is a bit thicker but, at the same time, is
slightly less soft. The price for this Uniqlo sweater came in at just under a hundred dollars.

To find both the socks and the tie that I’m wearing, in addition to a wide variety of other classic men’s accessories, you can take a look at the Fort Belvedere shop here.

Would you consider buying “budget” cashmere–or have you done so in the past? Share with us in the comments section!