How to Pair Tie Knots with Shirt Collars – Ideal Menswear Combinations

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Combining shirt collars and tie knots can be tricky, and could either enhance your look or make you appear sloppy! Today, we’ll discuss how to pair them together to best highlight your face.

The three popular tie knots that we’re going to be covering today will be the Full Windsor, the Half Windsor, and the Four-in-Hand knot. We’ll also be covering three popular shirt collars; the button-down collar, the spread collar, and the forward-point collar (also occasionally referred to as the “classic” collar).

Tie Knot and Shirt Collar Pairing Mistakes

A tie knot that is too small
A tie knot that is too small
  • Pairing the slimmest tie knot with the widest collar possible. This looks quite sloppy because the small knot and wide collar are exposing the part of the tie that loops around the neck. Overall, the outside border of the tie knot should correspond with the inside border of your collar.
  • Making tie knots too bulky. This looks a little bit more whimsical and it’s tougher to take people seriously. Having a tie knot that’s aggressively pushing its way out from under the collar isn’t a good look.
  • Choosing the wrong tie length. If you’re a very tall man and you’re not wearing the appropriate length of  tie, your tie might look too short for you. Also, if you happen to be a shorter gentleman and your tie is too long, this also looks incorrect. This problem can be mitigated by making sure that you’re using a tie knot that better utilizes the fabric of the tie itself–but keep in mind, this can also cause a situation where the tie knot is not properly harmonizing with the collar that you’re wearing. The best solution to fix this is to make sure that you’re buying the correct size tie for you.
Overwhelming tie knot throws off proportions
This Full Windsor knot is balanced by the spread collar, but is perhaps still somewhat large

Tips for Pairing Tie Knots and Shirt Collars

Remember, the key with any tie knot and collar combination is to ensure that you’re not exposing the part of the tie that loops around your neck. Therefore. it’s important to understand the best size of the shirt collar.

Find Your Neck Size

If you don’t already own a measuring tape, you can find one at your local craft store, tailor shop, or even online. Step in front of the mirror, hold your measuring tape around your neck with one hand, and then with the other hand, hold it firmly against your neck. With your second hand, hold the measuring tape around your neck, and use your index fingers to keep a space between the tape and your neck.

A basic tape measure will be the only tool you need to find your neck size
A basic tape measure will be the only tool you need to find your neck size

Once you do this, the number you see on the tape is going to reflect the best size you should be purchasing for your shirt collars. If you feel like you’re not getting consistent measurements, ask a friend to help you out–or you could always stop into your local tailor shop and ask for assistance in discovering your correct size. Once you’ve discovered your correct size, you can start shopping for different shirt options.

Find The Right Shirt Collar for Your Face Shape

Always keep in mind that a lot of different collar options are available and some come in different heights.

Taller collar for a longer neck
Taller collar for a longer neck

If you’re someone who has a longer neck, it might be easier for you to wear a taller collar, and if you’re somebody with a shorter neck, it might be a bit easier for you to wear a shorter collar. When shopping for different shirt collars, one important component will be knowing your face shape. It is best to actually shop for a shirt collar which somewhat differs from your overall face shape.

So for example, if you’re somebody with round face shape, it might be beneficial for you to try wearing something more linear with your shirt collar, try wearing the forward point collar. If you have an oval-shaped face, it might be quite easy for you to find different options for you to consider for your shirt collars.

Shorter collar for a shorter neck
Shorter collar for a shorter neck

Depending on the width of your jawline, a bit of a square-shaped face, you might find the forward point or the button-down collar to be great options for you.

Tips on Tie Materials:

A few different popular materials for different ties that you might find in stores will be things like cashmere, silk, wool, and cotton. Whichever season you might find yourself in when shopping may impact the materials that are available. Also, the tie knot that you plan on wearing will also play a role in helping you decide which material you end up selecting.

A silk tie in Full Windsor knot

For example, using silk allows for much more fluidity with different twists and turns, which occur when wearing a Full Windsor knot, for example. Whereas cotton and linen ties will look great when tied as a Four-in-Hand style.

Pairing Knots and Collars: Examples

Again, it’s important to pay attention to scale when you’re pairing tie knots and shirt collars together. Here are a few (poor) examples:

  • Full Windsor knot with a button-down collar: Here, the knot itself will look quite stuffed between the two points of the collar. As such a smaller knot like a Four-in-Hand would be better.
  • Four-in-Hand knot with a spread collar: This combination, meanwhile, will result in a lot of empty space on either side of the tie knot. Remember, the outer borders of the tie knot should meet with the inner borders of the collar. A Full or Half Windsor knot would be better. Also, remember to select a combination of which best supports your face shape, your collar, and your tie knot.
Full Windsor knot with a button-down collar

More Combinations For Different Occasions

The forward point will look great for an office job, or perhaps a conservative job interview. If you work in finance, maybe try wearing the spread collar or the semi-spread collar. For those church and graduation occasions, go ahead and try a button-down collar.

A Word About “Modern” Tie Knots

There are also other tie knots that some gentlemen like to wear which are seen as conversation starters; three of these happen to be the Eldredge knot, the Vidalia, and the Tulip knot. Being proponents of classic style, we wouldn’t explicitly recommend these tie knots outside of occasional playful settings.

Eldredge Knot
The Eldredge knot, one of the more modern tie knots that won’t work well in many conservative settings

Conclusion

Just remember, whenever in doubt, always stick with the classic shirt collar options and tie knot options. For example, having a Four-in-Hand tie knot with a forward-point collar or a button-down collar.

Know your face shape and your neck size to help narrow down which options you should be paying attention to. Experiment with other shirt collars and tie knot options and see what you might enjoy.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a wool plaid sport coat, it’s got a charcoal gray base with some light gray and some
navy checks in there, as well. A white button-down spread collar dress shirt. Light gray made-to-measure trousers and black boots from Cole Haan. I am also wearing a navy woolen tie

Kyle wearing a navy wool tie
Kyle wearing a navy tie
A classic Navy grenadine tie from Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Grenadine Silk Tie in Navy Blue

What’s your favorite tie knot and shirt collar pairing? Let us know in the comments section!

Reader Comments

  1. For the best example of a knot you should not knot, check out the old TV series HANNIBAL, where Mads Mikkelsen had to be mad to tie that abomination.

  2. Raphael / Preston –
    I rarely, if ever question your opinions/direction….
    There are only two knots a gentleman should be concerned with; Four-In-Hand and sometimes a Half Windsor. “David” by the way, was not the originator = think Duke of Kent (not the current one by the way) Full Windsor is a big ugly affectation. The big onion.
    The other knots? Gentlemen, you need a hobby – read a book.
    Extreme “cut-a-way” collars are silly, don’t you think?

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