What if a bespoke suit could feel as comfortable as a pair of pajamas? In his Vienna salon, tailor Michael Possanner shows Raphael Schneider exactly how he achieves this sartorial feat. Watch the full interview to learn his secrets for blending Neapolitan softness with Viennese structure.
Michael Possanner’s Philosophy of the Softer Suit
A Conversation in the Salon
Raphael Schneider visits Michael Possanner at his Viennese workshop, Maß-Salon Possanner. They undertake a detailed exploration of Mr. Possanner’s unique approach to bespoke tailoring, examining everything from classic sport coats and traditional Austrian Trachten jackets to the pinnacle of formal wear, the White Tie tailcoat. This conversation reveals a master craftsman’s vision for blending different tailoring traditions to create a distinctly modern garment.
“We aim to make a suit that makes you feel like you’re in a pajama. It should look tidy, but you should feel like in a pajama.”
Michael Possanner of Maß-Salon Possanner
Why This Interview Is a Must-Watch
If you love classic style, this video breaks down how a suit can be both elegant and incredibly comfortable. You’ll gain a sharper eye for quality craftsmanship and a true appreciation for bespoke tailoring.
Interested in a Bespoke Suit from Maß-Salon Possanner?
Highlights from this Video
“The less attention a line or a detail gives the suit, the more elegant, in our opinion, the suit is.”
Learn Michael’s philosophy of “quiet elegance” and why he believes the most sophisticated details are the ones you almost don’t notice.
“If you were to ask us about our house style… on a single-breasted jacket we normally do, I would say 90% of our jackets are three-button, two vents.”
Mr. Possanner reveals the core formula for 90% of his jackets and immediately clarifies the subtle but crucial difference between a classic three-button front and a more rakish “three-roll-two.”
“On a new customer, we do hand-sewn button holes, but not functioning ones.”
Learn the counter-intuitive reason why Mr. Possanner insists on leaving sleeve buttonholes uncut on a first commission.
“It's Jägerleinen, the hunter's linen… This would be the summer version.”
Get a close-up look at Jägerleinen, the “hunter’s linen” designed for breathability and a distinctive summer look.
“The waistcoat of a frack should always be or end above the peak of the jacket.”
Mr. Possanner shares the single most common and critical mistake he sees, revealing the one rule you must follow to achieve a truly elegant line.
“I completely forgot that I was wearing it, even though it wasn’t made for me… it felt very natural, like a second skin in a way.”
Sven Raphael Schneider, CEO & Founder of Gentleman's Gazette
What We Were Wearing
For his visit to Maß-Salon Possanner, Raphael opted for a classic and understated ensemble that allowed the craftsmanship on display to take center stage. His timeless navy two-button suit provided a sharp and professional silhouette, set against the clean canvas of a crisp white dress shirt.
He introduced a touch of visual interest with a dark brown printed silk tie, perfectly complemented by a White Linen Pocket Square with a Brown Wave edge from Fort Belvedere.
The look was completed with a discreet splash of Roberto Ugolini’s Blue Suede Shoes cologne, a modern and refined scent with notes of bergamot, lavender, and pepper.
Ask the Expert
What is the most important rule for a suit’s proportions?
While balance is key, Mr. Possanner provides a specific rule for lapel width: it should ideally meet the middle of the distance between the collar/lapel seam and the shoulder seam. This creates a natural proportion that is always pleasing to the eye and avoids looking trendy or dated.
How can I tell if a jacket is truly made for comfort?
Look at the shoulder construction. A jacket designed for maximum comfort, such as those from Maß-Salon Possanner, will typically have little to no shoulder padding, allowing it to follow the natural line of your body like a shirt. This, combined with a high armhole, provides a full range of motion without feeling restrictive.
How many buttons should be on a jacket sleeve?
While it can be up to the customer, Possanner’s house style follows a rule of symmetry. For a single-breasted, three-button jacket, he prefers three buttons on the sleeves. For a two-button jacket, he suggests either two or four buttons to create a visual harmony between the jacket’s front and its cuffs.
How do you properly wear a traditional Austrian Trachten jacket?
A traditional festive Trachten jacket is typically worn as a full suit with matching trousers (often made from Loden fabric). It is properly paired with a crisp white shirt, specific neckwear like a pale pink tie, and traditional Haferlschuh shoes. Unlike a city suit, a pocket square is generally not worn.
How often should I dry clean my bespoke suit?
Michael Possanner advises against frequent chemical dry cleaning, as it can be harsh on natural fibers. He recommends it only when absolutely necessary for a significant stain. For regular maintenance, he suggests simple brushing, spot cleaning, and professional pressing to keep the garment fresh and preserve its lifespan.
“It’s such a beautiful classic. You go through all of the Lawrence Fellows illustrations of the 1930s and so you would find all these beautiful dinner jackets.”
Michael Possanner of Maß-Salon Possanner
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Superb article!
Very much liked and agreed with the comments regarding shoulder construction, high armholes, and lapel width!
I have been a client of “Maßsalonia” for a decade and could not be more thrilled with the craftsmanship, taste, fit, and quality of every article Mr. Possanner produces. The attention to detail. his overall conception of how the cut should fit in order to be both comfortable and flattering at the same time is nothing short of genius. There is simply nothing in North America that compares to Possanner’s fully hand-stiched bespoke garments, and the most magnificent sensation is that “second skin” feeling as your arm slides into a sleeve crafted in Döbling — it never fades, and each time you slip into a Possanner garment, you are reminded of what a exceptionally rewarding investment his work represents. Not only does the client create his own “brand,” if you will through proper bespoke tailoring, but you are also maintaining a culturally vital craft tradition. This is why I also purchase my shirts from Possanner (a decade on, and I’ve had to replace one button!) and prefer the enormous value of bespoke footwear in the Viennese tradition from Materna. The icing on the cake is a hand stitched four-in-hand, and a hand-whipped pochette. Bravo for featuring one of the most gifted cutters on the Continent and an exceptional man.
Wonderful to hear from you, Duncan – thank you for sharing your insight as a seasoned visitor to Michael’s atelier!
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