Pitti Uomo 87

Pitti Uomo 87

Once again it is Pitti time, and this year men are probably even more colorful than last year. Nevertheless, if you look back at last year’s winter coverage you will probably realize that not many men actually wear most of the outfits seen in Florence twice a year. Much rather they may utilize an accessory, maybe an overcoat or go with a particular jacket but hardly ever will you see people on the street that look like Pitti Peacocks. As such, the show is a bit like a catwalk in the sense that it is very extreme, rather than actually presenting outfits that should actually be worn exactly like it. Whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing could be the subject of lengthy discussion, at the end of the day it is fun to see new things or combinations that can provide with food for thought. So without further ado, Pitti Uomo 87.

Beutiful green suit with orange knit vest and purple knit tie, brown hat and gloves as seen by beforeeesunrise.com

Beautiful green suit with orange knit vest and purple knit tie, brown hat and gloves as seen by beforeeesunrise.com

Fantastic suit in green, paired with orange, purple and brown. A perfect example of how to create an interesting outfit just with solids.

Wristbands and kissing buttons by Luca Rubinacci

Wristbands and kissing buttons by Luca Rubinacci

Wristbands are still worn by some, though I wonder if they will still be popular 5 years from now. Also note the kissing buttons. About 15 years ago, they became popular, then they somewhat disappeared again, and now you can see them again. Personally, I am not a fan of them – how about you?

Victor Amara in blue and grey

Victor Amaro in blue and grey

Victor Amaro with driving gloves, a grey jacket, a light blue vest, a paisley tie and a white shirt. It seems like hats in vibrant colors are rather popular again, which reminds me a bit of the TV show Boardwalk Empire, because they also wore hats in unusual hues.

Textured overcoat and tones of brown as seen by GQ Mexico

Textured overcoat and tones of brown as seen by GQ Mexico

In my opinion, this is a great combination in brown. Sure, it would have been even greater with fewer accents but at the end of the day it is very interesting. Brown bowler, melange brown overcoat, beautifully checked three piece suit, with a large motif scarf and red boutonniere. Just imagine there was no key chain, and just a subtle scarf, and maybe a solid overcoat – this outfit would have been outstanding. As it stands it is “just” good.

Short wrap coat with grey windowpane suit as seen by F. Y.

Short wrap coat with grey windowpane suit as seen by F. Y.

This is an interesting wrap coat, which is rather short, in mid brown with patch pockets. I would have chosen a different tie for more contrast, and gone with a darker shade of brown considering the light grey windowpane flannel suit he is wearing, but each to his own.

 

 

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Sherlock Holmes inspired outfit with trenchcoat

Sherlock Holmes inspired outfit with trench coat.

I really like the fabric of this overcoat – thick diagonal twill, with a long hair flannel touch. Here it is made up as a trench coat, which is ok, but I think it would have looked better as an Ulster.

Pitti Peacocks by beforeeesunrise

Pitti Peacocks by beforeeesunrise

Pitti Peacocks  – you would probably not see men on the street dressed like this anywhere else in the world.

Patchwork jackets - I wonder how popular they will be by High Snobiety

Patchwork jackets – I wonder how popular they will be by High Snobiety

Lardini and Nick Wooster have been working on a series of patchwork jackets. I don’t think this trend will prevail but who knows… Let’s see how many patchwork jackets we will see next winter…

Muted colors and wide shirt collar

Muted colors and wide shirt collar

The color and pattern combination on the left is quite nice. Fine stripes, mini checks, a solid and motif tie. For my taste, the shirt collar is too big but otherwise a subtle combination that will stand the test of time.

Mr. Rossi as seen by beyond fabric

Mr. Rossi as seen by beyond fabric

Another simple, yet great combination in brown and blue – learn how to combine these two colors here.

Lino Leluzzi voted by NY Mag as the consistenly best dressed in shades of blue, and his lucky number 7 - note his signet ring by beforeeesunrise

Lino Leluzzi voted by NY Mag as the consistenly best dressed in shades of blue, and his lucky number 7 – note his signet ring by beforeeesunrise

Light blue has been Lino’s color for the last few Pitti Uomo shows now, and it suits him well, even though I find the jacket and overcoat patterns too close in size and in color. What do you think?

Jeans with hat, overcoat and long scarf by High Snobiety

Jeans with hat, overcoat and long scarf by High Snobiety

Ripped jeans have definitely been a trend that has persisted for the last 15 years – who would have thought that in 1999? Here they are combined with a long, thick scarf , a raglan sleeve overcoat, sport coat and hat.

Grinze on the sleevehead - distinctly Italian by Manolo.se

Grinze on the sleevehead – distinctly Italian by Manolo.se

Grinze, the little folds on the puffy sleevehead, are typical for southern Italian jackets. No proper German, English or American tailor would have ever considered that to be stylish a few years back, but I like variety. It is good to see that different tailors have different details, even though I am personally not a huge fan of the shirred shoulder sleevehead on jackets.

Gianni Fontana in blue, grey and red as seen by Yu Yang beforeeesunrise

Gianni Fontana in blue, grey and red as seen by Yu Yang beforeeesunrise

Interesting combination by Gianni Fontana in blue, grey, and red. Although the colors sound very conservative, Gianni makes his outfit unique by blending brighter shades of these colors with unusual textures.

Gennaro Annunziata & Alfonso Curzio de Francesco mostly in grey, blue and red by Yu Yang beforeeesunrise

Gennaro Annunziata & Alfonso Curzio de Francesco mostly in grey, blue and red by Yu Yang beforeeesunrise

Two more outfits that mainly consist of blue, grey and red if you disregard the camel overcoat for a second. I am surprised to see these elegant outfits combined with chunky thick-soled derby shoes or boots.

Completely over the top as seen by Manolo.se

Completely over the top as seen by Manolo.se

No comment.

Center back plet on a trechcoat for more freedom of movement by Manolo.se

Center back plet on a trechcoat for more freedom of movement by Manolo.se

Inverted pleats on a jacket or overcoat really help to preserve your range of motion. Hence if you take a lot of pictures with a camera, opt for jacket and coats with an inverted center pleat of shooting pleats on the side, and I promise you will be much more comfortable throughout the day.

Bold Three piece windowpane suit with striped shirt, overcoat and micropattern tie as seen by GQ Mexico

Bold Three piece windowpane suit with striped shirt, overcoat and micropattern tie as seen by GQ Mexico

This is one of these outfits that cries for attention. I like the suit fabric though in this combination it is a bit too much for my taste – too many windowpanes. Do you agree?

Bold check from Isaia by Manolo.se

Bold check from Isaia by Manolo.se

Orange and blue check that reminds me of the fabrics in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s – would you wear something like this?

Beautiful DB overcoat with generous overlapby Tagliatore

Beautiful DB overcoat with generous overlap by Tagliatore

Last but not least, a nice overcoat with Ulster collar, wide overlap and mottled fabric – what do you think of it?

For more outfits of Pitti Uomo, click here.

Picture Credit: Yu Yang beforeeesunrise.com, Manolo.se, Victor Amaro, F.Y., High SnobietyGQ Mexico,

Summary
Article Name
Pitti Uomo 87
Description
Selection of 20 classically inspired men's outfits as seen at Pitti Uomo 87 in Florence, January 2015.
Author
12 replies
  1. Lloyd V. Evan, ll says:

    The 20 shown are ugly. I’d prefer to go to the Salvation Army and pick up anything but those shown. Looks like a friggin’ carnival show of costumes for clowns.

    The only ones that had any appeal were two:
    1)Muted colors and wide shirt collar
    and
    Mr Rossii, sans the hat however.

    • Ron Robinson says:

      Bravo Gentlemen, from America the home of casual Sunday through Saturday. We are the foremost purveyors of the neck beard and the watch cap for all occasions. The Dockers capital of the universe we are. All the outfits are not my cup of tea, but it is nonetheless, individual expression. All were stylish and required thought. It is nice to see men that still give a rip about their appearance.

      Lloyd you embody the internet hater. Your hypercritical review added nothing of substance to the discussion. Send us a photo of Lloyd’s fashion vision.

  2. Raymond Harty OAM says:

    I viewed the Pitti Uomo 87 fashion and why colourful I was not overly Impressed. My taste in fashion favours classical elegance where a well tailor suite or trouser/jacket combination is complimented with well thought out accessories that do not detracted but enhance the overall look.
    I look forward to winter and the opportunity to wear an overcoat with scarf and clovers matched with a well tailor suite where the colour blend and are not in competition with each other, to my mind this presents a picture of elegance.

  3. Erik says:

    Wow, i like that ‘wrap coat’; simple and gorgeous.
    That photo has been saved in my files.

    And two photos below that, i think on the left i see a … Norton jacket!

    For the rest, i see far too many clowns. Could you, when talking to someone dressed that silly, take that persion serious?

  4. AlexH says:

    I enjoyed looking at the outfits and I’m glad that GG posts them up for those of us who can’t be there. I like the accessories as well and I applaud all of the men featured here. Regardless of whether or not I would wear something like it is not the point: it’s good to see men pushing the limits of fashion — good or bad — because that’s how it evolves.

  5. Hal says:

    As ever Pitti presents some overblown and, frankly, pretty dire outfits but there is plenty to like here, too. In particular, there are some lovely overcoats on display: the mottled and textured brown overcoat worn over a checked tweed suits (perhaps a bit too much going on overall but undoutedly stylish) and the final checked double-breasted Ulster/British Warm style coat are beautiful.

Comments are closed.