Once again it is Pitti time, and this year men are probably even more colorful than last year. Nevertheless, if you look back at last year’s winter coverage you will probably realize that not many men actually wear most of the outfits seen in Florence twice a year. Much rather they may utilize an accessory, maybe an overcoat or go with a particular jacket but hardly ever will you see people on the street that look like Pitti Peacocks. As such, the show is a bit like a catwalk in the sense that it is very extreme, rather than actually presenting outfits that should actually be worn exactly like it. Whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing could be the subject of lengthy discussion, at the end of the day it is fun to see new things or combinations that can provide with food for thought. So without further ado, Pitti Uomo 87.
Fantastic suit in green, paired with orange, purple and brown. A perfect example of how to create an interesting outfit just with solids.
Wristbands are still worn by some, though I wonder if they will still be popular 5 years from now. Also note the kissing buttons. About 15 years ago, they became popular, then they somewhat disappeared again, and now you can see them again. Personally, I am not a fan of them – how about you?
Victor Amaro with driving gloves, a grey jacket, a light blue vest, a paisley tie and a white shirt. It seems like hats in vibrant colors are rather popular again, which reminds me a bit of the TV show Boardwalk Empire, because they also wore hats in unusual hues.
In my opinion, this is a great combination in brown. Sure, it would have been even greater with fewer accents but at the end of the day it is very interesting. Brown bowler, melange brown overcoat, beautifully checked three piece suit, with a large motif scarf and red boutonniere. Just imagine there was no key chain, and just a subtle scarf, and maybe a solid overcoat – this outfit would have been outstanding. As it stands it is “just” good.
This is an interesting wrap coat, which is rather short, in mid brown with patch pockets. I would have chosen a different tie for more contrast, and gone with a darker shade of brown considering the light grey windowpane flannel suit he is wearing, but each to his own.
I really like the fabric of this overcoat – thick diagonal twill, with a long hair flannel touch. Here it is made up as a trench coat, which is ok, but I think it would have looked better as an Ulster.
Pitti Peacocks – you would probably not see men on the street dressed like this anywhere else in the world.
Lardini and Nick Wooster have been working on a series of patchwork jackets. I don’t think this trend will prevail but who knows… Let’s see how many patchwork jackets we will see next winter…
The color and pattern combination on the left is quite nice. Fine stripes, mini checks, a solid and motif tie. For my taste, the shirt collar is too big but otherwise a subtle combination that will stand the test of time.
Another simple, yet great combination in brown and blue – learn how to combine these two colors here.
Light blue has been Lino’s color for the last few Pitti Uomo shows now, and it suits him well, even though I find the jacket and overcoat patterns too close in size and in color. What do you think?
Ripped jeans have definitely been a trend that has persisted for the last 15 years – who would have thought that in 1999? Here they are combined with a long, thick scarf , a raglan sleeve overcoat, sport coat and hat.
Grinze, the little folds on the puffy sleevehead, are typical for southern Italian jackets. No proper German, English or American tailor would have ever considered that to be stylish a few years back, but I like variety. It is good to see that different tailors have different details, even though I am personally not a huge fan of the shirred shoulder sleevehead on jackets.
Interesting combination by Gianni Fontana in blue, grey, and red. Although the colors sound very conservative, Gianni makes his outfit unique by blending brighter shades of these colors with unusual textures.
Two more outfits that mainly consist of blue, grey and red if you disregard the camel overcoat for a second. I am surprised to see these elegant outfits combined with chunky thick-soled derby shoes or boots.
Inverted pleats on a jacket or overcoat really help to preserve your range of motion. Hence if you take a lot of pictures with a camera, opt for jacket and coats with an inverted center pleat of shooting pleats on the side, and I promise you will be much more comfortable throughout the day.
This is one of these outfits that cries for attention. I like the suit fabric though in this combination it is a bit too much for my taste – too many windowpanes. Do you agree?
Orange and blue check that reminds me of the fabrics in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s – would you wear something like this?
Last but not least, a nice overcoat with Ulster collar, wide overlap and mottled fabric – what do you think of it?