Finishing Touch: The Pocket Square

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I love the idea of finishing off a black-tie ensemble with a smart boutonniere as was popular with young blades back in the 1930s. However, in this age of stripped-down minimalism I fear it would come off as a bit too dandyish. I have no such compunctions about a pocket square though.

Table of Contents
Classic Black Tie Accessories - Shirt Studs, Cufflinks, Pinky Ring, Pocket Square
Classic Black Tie Accessories – Shirt Studs, Cufflinks, Pinky Ring, Pocket Square
A photo of a Pocket Square with Monogram Initial Classic White Irish Linen

Fort Belvedere

White Initial Pocket Square – Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Red Carnation Boutonniere Life Size Lapel Flower - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Red Carnation Boutonniere Life Size Lapel Flower – Fort Belvedere

Single End Bow Tie in Black Silk Wide Ribbed Grosgrain - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Single End Bow Tie in Black Silk Wide Ribbed Grosgrain – Fort Belvedere

The classic rule with evening wear is that the handkerchief be of white linen, preferably hand-stitched. Silk is a more modern variation but some feel that the outfit’s satin lapels and accessories already supply an ample amount of sheen and adding any more  is gilding the lily.

This midnight blue jacket features lapels faced in black grosgrain silk.
This midnight blue jacket features lapels faced in black grosgrain silk. The pocket square is purple silk with a twill structure to resemble the lapel ribs.

The arrangement is largely a matter of preference. Some men lean towards the dégagé flair of a nonchalantly stuffed handkerchief and consider precisely folded shapes to be too studied. Personally, I love the simple square shape known as the “TV fold” for the way it evokes the Rat Pack era when combined with a sleek shawl-collar jacket and relaxed turndown-collar shirt.

High quality silk satin lapel with bow tie and Cummerbund in Black Silk Satin with Red Carnation Boutonniere
High quality silk satin lapel with bow tie and Cummerbund in Black Silk Satin with Red Carnation Boutonniere
A large butterfly style black silk bow tie

Fort Belvedere

Large Butterfly in Black Silk Satin Bow Tie Sized Self Tie – Fort Belvedere

The only time I opt for silk is as a substitute for a scarlet carnation. In that case the irregular shape of the puff protruding from the breast pocket parallels the natural asymmetry of the bygone lapel flower. Just make that sure the rest of the outfit is strictly black and white (as you would with any other type of coloured accessory).

 

Reader Comments

  1. I love to mix a small red carnation and a white pocket square or a white carnation with a red silk.

    If Fred and Doug could do it so can I.

    Don’t tell me I’m not them because they’re not me either.

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