Ranking 57 Watch Brands (BEST & WORST) – ft. Federico Iossa

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Watches are among the things we enjoy here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, and we believe a good watch round out a great outfit! Choosing a timepiece can be a challenge, though, as many brands are in the market, and if you’re looking to invest in a luxury watch, it’s going to be tough, as you’ve got price, function, style, and quality to consider! We’ll rank 57 luxury watch brands with Federico Iossa today to help.

YouTube video

Video Transcript [Lightly Edited for Clarity]:

Sven Raphael Schneider: Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette. In today’s video, I’ll be ranking watch brands and if you’re a regular follower, you know that I’m not the biggest watch expert, and so I brought in Federico from “Federico Talks Watches.” Thank you for coming.

Federico Iossa: Pleasure. Thank you for having me. 

Sven Raphael: So it’s gonna be fun to see what the rating is going to work out to be. Normally, Nathan is here and he’s an absolute watch nerd. But, he already did some videos with Federico and you can check it out on his channel or on our channel. So, without further ado, let’s get rolling.

Ranking 57 Watch Brands (BEST & WORST): 1. Rolex

Rolex Explorer 2 Black Dial16570
Rolex Explorer 2 Black Dial16570

Federico: Rolex, solid C- plus. 

Sven Raphael: I’d rank it like a B in terms of like brand recognition, value.

Federico: Well, if we’re talking about value and brand recognition, it’s an A. But, if we’re talking about watchmaking and quality product, which is something you love to talk about at the Gentleman’s Gazette, it’s a C in my humble opinion. Like a solid, like unspectacular, middle-of-the-road luxury watch

2. Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Calatrava Automatic Silver Dial 18kt White Gold Men's Watch Clear Silver
Patek Philippe Calatrava Automatic Silver Dial 18kt White Gold Men’s Watch Clear Silver

Sven Raphael: Next up is Patek Philippe. Honestly, I think, in the watch world and watchmaking, the big three. I’d say it’s probably an A.

Federico: I would agree. I would say A; potentially A-minus because there’s a couple of crazy independence that might be a little bit higher, but definitely A. 

3. Audemars Piguet

Audemar's Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

Sven Raphael: Audemars Piguet, what do you think?

Federico: Audemars Piguet. So, it’s part of the Holy Trinity. A lot of people would put it in the A category. Me being a little biased, I don’t love a lot of their chunkier, more modern models. I’d say, a B-plus 

Sven Raphael: I mean, I’m firmly convinced that the Nautilus from Patek Philippe and the Royal Oak; people wouldn’t love these watches if there wasn’t a hype around them/ I’m a firm believer that people just like them because they’re expensive. At least, when I look at them I’m like, “not a watch that I would want to wear.” But yeah, the Holy Trinity. I would have guessed that you would rank them between A and B somewhere.

Federico: Yeah, B-plus is what I would say. B-plus. 

4. A. Lange & Söhne

An elegant timepiece speaks volumes with every fine component
An elegant timepiece speaks volumes with every fine component

Sven Raphael: Next up, A. Lange & Söhne. I mean, as a German, I think the prestige and the cache they carry is definitely more in the A range.

Federico: A. Lange & Söhne is an A all the way! All the way. 

5. Omega

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer
OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer

Sven Raphael: Omega. Well, if I asked Nathan, he probably puts them in the A range, maybe A-minus. B-plus I would guess. So, I’d say B-plus.

Federico: You know, I think it’s an awesome watch. I think you get a lot of value for money. But, if I’m ranking it solely based on quality and craftsmanship, then they’re right there with Rolex. So, I’d say a C. 

Sven Raphael: In terms of if you consider value?

Federico: I mean, the value… It gets better value. I put them solidly in the B, B-plus. But, solely on craftsmanship and quality, it’s on par with Rolex. It’s a C. It’s just priced better than Rolex 

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre. JLC

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

Sven Raphael: Next up, Jaeger-LeCoultre. JLC. They always call them like, “the watchmakers’ watchmaker,” right? I got that, right? So, let’s say A-minus. Maybe B-plus.

Federico: JLC, definitely a B-plus in my book. I can’t quite put them with A. Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe but, you know, value-wise, A-plus. Quality craftsmanship, everything overall, solid B. 

7. IWC Schaffhausen

IWC Schaffhausen is an understated luxury and highly versatile timepiece
IWC Schaffhausen is an understated luxury and highly versatile timepiece

Sven Raphael: IWC Schaffhausen.

Federico: For my American viewers, it’s “I-W-C Schaffhausen.” So, this is an interesting brand because it’s very prestigious. Great history. Lately, their quality is better – more in-house movements – but previously massively overpriced. I’m torn between a C-plus and a B-minus. Somewhere very much in between there. 

8. Cartier

Cartier Men's W6701010 Ronde Solo Automatic
Cartier Men’s W6701010 Ronde Solo Automatic

Sven Raphael: Let’s talk, Cartier watches. That’s a hard one because there’s like the Crash, the Tank, the Santosh, Dumont.

Cartier Tank Watch – The Hallmark of Sophisticated Elegance

Federico: It’s very hard because Cartier makes a wide range of products from quartz models that are enough to Cartier’s super fine watchmaking, which is an A. But I would say, if we have to take the brand as a whole, B-minus. Design, A-plus. But everything together, B-minus. 

Sven Raphael: Yeah, design I would say like it’s really iconic and, I mean, yes, they have quartz models, which tell time more accurately than mechanical washes, right?

Federico: Absolutely. 

Sven Raphael: That’s not what it’s about.

The valuable precious metals used in Cartier products are timeless and gain more value over time
The valuable precious metals used in Cartier products are timeless and gain more value over time

Federico: No, you know not at all. It’s only one of the minimal factors. 

Sven Raphael: Yeah, customer service Cartier, in my experience, not that great. I don’t know what your experience is.

Federico: So, I actually used to work for Cartier. We talked about your story last night. You know, I think that, in the boutiques, they do a very good job. You were trying to deal with their online concierge? 

Sven Raphael: Horrible experience online.

Federico: I think these brands just don’t know how the internet works. I mean, they just they make mechanical watches. You know, technology from the 1700s, so I wouldn’t judge them based solely on that one experience. But, you know, maybe there’s some room for improvement. 

9. Nordgreen

The designer is a very well-known for his Scandinavian and minimalist watches after designing several brands.
The designer is very well-known for his Scandinavian and minimalist watches after designing several brands.

Sven Raphael: Next up, Nordgreen. Frankly, I have no idea what those watches look like. I’ve never seen them.

Federico: Who? Nordgreen? 

Sven Raphael: Nordgreen. N-o-r-d-g-r-e-e-n. Well, maybe you know the next one.

10. Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin watches has the extra 150 years of experience that they have over Rolex puts VC in the category of Haute Horlogerie High Horology
Vacheron Constantin watches have the extra 150 years of experience that they have over Rolex puts VC in the category of Haute Horlogerie High Horology

Sven Raphael: Vacheron Constantin.

Federico: Vacheron Constantin. Talk about awful customer service. I’ve had a watch in repair for three months. I still don’t have an estimate yet. And then, when they called me because I thought they were going to apologize, they told me it was my fault because I like filled out the paperwork wrong. That being said, just because they don’t know how to treat people, B-minus. But, without that experience, B-plus. 

11. Mont Blanc

Montblanc watches always end up at the top
Montblanc watches always end up at the top

Sven Raphael: Next up, Mont Blanc watches. If you don’t know it already, but I started my journey to classic style with fountain pens and Mont Blanc was a part of that. I bought them and sold them. Got a pair of cufflinks, then I learned about French cuff shirts and about clothing and that’s how I started. And I was around when they didn’t have watches and then they introduced them. I think it’s probably hard to break into that watch market even though it’s Swiss-made.

Federico: It takes decades. 

Sven Raphael: I would guess, you know. I don’t know if there are any good watches. I would guess they’re more for like brand whores. What’s your idea?

Federico: So, this is funny because it’s a brand that’s actually evolved and put in the work. So, if you ask me this question ten years ago, solid D-minus fashion brand. But they bought the Minerva factory, which was a factory that’s famous for their chronographs. They make some very high-end complications and in-house movements; however, if we take their slow start and the fact that it’s going to take decades, I’m going to put them at a C-minus and getting better every year. 

Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Quantieme Automatic Silver Dial Black Leather Mens Watch 112536
Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Quantieme Automatic Silver Dial Black Leather Mens Watch 112536

Sven Raphael: Interesting. Yeah, I would have not known how to rank them.

Federico: It’s a tough one, but they are getting better. 

12. Chopard

Chopard Classic Classique 18 Karat Gold
Chopard Classic Classique 18 Karat Gold

Sven Raphael: Next up, the brand is Chopard. I mean, I never owned a Chopard watch but, to me, I would associate it more with like something cheaper. I would guess it’s more in the D range.

Federico: So, Chopar is a Jekyll-and-Hyde brand. They make everything from the massively overpriced ladies watches to the just-okay, racing-inspired Mille Miglia, to some of my favorite watchers in the world, which is the LUC Chopard high-end. Once again, if we have to take all of this into account, C-minus. But, it’s really a product line that goes from F to B. But, overall, C-minus.

13. Piaget

Piaget has been crafting luxury watches.
Piaget has been crafting luxury watches.

Sven Raphael: Piaget. And you know, I had that story where a family friend, you know, she bought a Piaget ladies watch, and then she kind of had it appraised and, when the appraiser heard what she paid, she’s like, “Yeah, you just want to keep it.” What I’ve seen from men is actually something I like, stylistically, right?

The Altiplano was really thin, yes, but I think, overall, in the watch market, I would guess that because of its as thin as it must be and its nice movement, right, I personally like the look of them. So, my ranking would be more like B-plus, A-minus. But, what’s your take?

Federico: So, I actually used to work for Piaget, so I know quite a bit about the brand. Very prestigious movement maker. Their movements were used by Vacheron, IWC, Cartier. However, a mess on the business side. They don’t know how to sell or market watches. This is a very tough one for me. My heart says a B; my brain says a C. So, let’s say C.

14. Blancpain

Blancpain watches are neck-and-neck when it comes to heritage and technology, which are simply amazing with both timepieces.
Blancpain watches are neck-and-neck when it comes to heritage and technology, which are simply amazing with both timepieces.

Sven Raphael: Blancpain. I’ve never had a watch really yet. I mean, I’ve seen the brand name. I think, when I heard about it first, it seemed like it was more respected in the watch world than I would have guessed it was.

Federico: It’s very respected, but it’s one of those brands that went out of business for over a hundred years and was reintroduced in the 80s. They do make a very good watch. B-minus. B-minus for me. 

15. Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin has earned its special place in high horology or Haute Horlogerie a coveted watchmaking niche
Ulysse Nardin has earned its special place in high horology or Haute Horlogerie a coveted watchmaking niche

Sven Raphael: Ulysse Nardin. That seems to be more lie – don’t know – want to say, “wannabe brand.” But, my perception would be more of a like D. 

Federico: So, here’s the thing, these guys are the kings of when they try they actually make something very special, but they very rarely try. C-minus. 

Sven Raphael: So, what’s an example of when they tried?

Federico: When they tried, the Ulysse Nardin Freak, which is not the most beautiful watch, but mechanically, the whole movement would rotate on an axis. So, the movement would spin along with the hands, which was crazy. But, then you also have just a bunch of dive watches for seven thousand dollars with a three-hundred-dollar, ETA, off-the-shelf movement. They’re capable. They really are, but too little too late in my opinion. 

16. Corum

Corum watches represent the pinnacle of luxury and refinement
Corum watches represent the pinnacle of luxury and refinement

Sven Raphael: I think for a Black Tie ensemble, there’s this brand called Corum with that very special movement that looks almost like a stick.

Federico: That’s the “Golden Bridge.”

Sven Raphael: I know we talked about this yesterday. I actually like the Golden Bridge, and I like that you like something off the beaten path. And I like some of their extreme models – the bubble models with the crazy artwork. You know, once again, my heart says B. But, it’s gotta Be a D. You know, in reality, unfortunately. 

17. Panerai

Panerai Luminor Marina Logo Acciaio
Panerai Luminor Marina Logo Acciaio

Sven Raphael: Panerai. I would guess, you know, it’s kind of a popular watch with younger men who may not like the Rolex. Personally, it seems to me like it’s a bit overhyped. But what do I know?

Federico: So, I own three of them, you know, I love them when before. Well, in their first surge of popularity. You know, back in the early 2000s, they were the cool watch and that was my aspirational piece. I’m also Italian. I love the history. But I can’t lie, you know. I’m not going to lie about it. It’s movements, they’re nothing special. Other watchers look the same. They all they survive off limited editions. Even though I own three in my collection, D-plus. Yeah, D-plus. 

18. GP Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux watches can hold their value well, especially certain models.
Girard-Perregaux watches can hold their value well, especially for certain models.

Sven Raphael: Alright. GP Girard-Perregaux. In the other video we talked about, where you showed me watches and I had to react, you had the rose gold, Miami douchebag watch, correct?

Federico: That was my personal watch, yes, sir. 

Sven Raphael: So, I would guess you’d rank it probably in the B territory.

Federico: So, it’s a brand that’s massively underrated and undervalued and has an iconic model. Very high quality. While a lot of people will disagree with me, having touched many of them, B-minus. I think it’s a solid brand. 

19. Hublot

The Hublot Classic Fusion holds its value surprisingly well.
The Hublot Classic Fusion holds its value surprisingly well.

Sven Raphael: And now the one you’ve all been waiting for. Hublot. And I know that in the watch world, they’re hated. So, my guess would be that say it’s somewhere between a D and an F. Personally, I don’t like the designs. I don’t know about the details, but that would be my guess. So, as much as I would love to say F, you know, they are relatively innovative. You know, sapphire cases, some interesting movements. It’s just, even when they innovate, it’s the ugliest possible innovation ever innovated in watch history. So, while I want to say F, I can’t but it’s a D. It’s a D. 

Sven Raphael: See, what I’m surprised about is like how can something that seems to have such a collective hate still be around and and find a customer base?

Federico: Because the collective hate that you’re seeing on YouTube is from watch guys like me or maybe classic style gentlemen like you. We’re very niche, you know? For the average, wealthy gentleman that doesn’t necessarily love watches or follow classic style or watches YouTube, it can be an attractive… I mean, it’s bold, it’s heavily-advertised, and that’s almost all you really need to create a hype brand, right? It’s recognizable and it’s plastered on every billboard. So, you know, that’s my opinion. 

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20. Bvlgari

The Bulgari brands dedication to the best makes it a favorite among most watch collectors and famous fans.
The Bulgari brand’s dedication to the best makes it a favorite among most watch collectors and famous fans.

Sven Raphael: Bulgari watches. You know, Bulgari, when I see that the brand, I think of like cheap perfume ads, so I would thoroughly put it more like in the D to F category.

Federico: So while you’re not wrong, your answer is a little outdated because you don’t follow the watch market necessarily. 

Sven Raphael: I don’t know.

Federico: In the past ten years, there’s been a very big push to bring Bulgari up back to a higher place in the watch industry because it used to be very popular in the 80s. So, new models , new movements, new Innovations. While I don’t personally like their designs, they’re ugly. They are doing some cool things. C-minus, but eight, nine years ago, solid D to F, you now, in my opinion. 

21. Nomos Glashütte

Nomos Glashutte Mens Ahoi Atlantik Datum 553
Nomos Glashutte Mens Ahoi Atlantik Datum 553

Sven Raphael: Next up is German watch brand, Nomos Glasshutte. Nathan said, you know, it’s a good beginner Swatch brand. A lot of people like the simplistic, Bauhaus design. My guess is like a B.

Federico: I would agree with you. You know, Jaeger is also in B, but Nomos makes the same grade just because their price point is so much lower. Fantastic first luxury watch. So, B, B-minus. Just for value, B, for sure. 

22. Vincero

Vincero is a watch brand that sits nicely between two parallels luxury and affordable.
Vincero is a watch brand that sits nicely between two parallels luxury and affordable.

Sven Raphael: Now, we have Vincero watches. I would guess it’s more of an F watch. Daniel Wellington territory.

Federico: Total garbage. Straight F. No, nothing to say. F! 

23. Liv

If youre looking for affordable and practical luxury watches LIV is a great brand.
If you’re looking for affordable and practical luxury watches LIV is a great brand.

Sven Raphael: Liv watches. Never heard of them. It’s probably very similar to F.

Federico: Department store, overpriced, two-dollar watch. F! 

24. Breitling

Breitling watches are a luxury item & as such they come with hefty price tags.
Breitling watches are a luxury item & as such they come with hefty price tags.

Sven Raphael: So, next up is Breitling. I know you mentioned the Navitimer, so I guess probably on a B to C range would be my guess.

Federico: I’d put them right there with Omega and Rolex. You know, C. Mid-level sports watch. A little expensive. 

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25. Bremont

Bremont Watch Supernova
Bremont Watch Supernova

Sven Raphael: Next up is Bremont.

Federico: Bremont is a British-based company that just got bought by a big Wall Street firm. Lots of faux Heritage and lifestyle stuff. D-minus. 

Sven Raphael: Is it “Bre-ment” or “Bre-mont”

Federico: It’s “Bree-mont,” I believe. I mean, they’re British Brothers. They’re innovating a little bit, but it’s just it’s just not worth it. Too many snafus as well. PR snafus. Just D, D-minus. Pick one up pre-owned for 10 cents, 20 cents on the dollar. 

26. Tag Heuer

Tag Heuer watches age well over many years due to the quality and valuable materials
Tag Heuer watches age well over many years due to the quality and valuable materials

Sven Raphael: Tag Heuer. I think they’re a bit of a harder standing. I wouldn’t know anything about it. My guess would be you put it in the C to D range.

Federico: So, Tag would have been an F in the 90s. Great history, very bad 90s. They’re getting better now. More in-house movements. I’d say, D-plus and getting better. 

27. Baume & Mercier

Baume & Mercier do retain their value and remain highly collectable.
Baume & Mercier do retain their value and remain highly collectible.

Sven Raphael: Baume & Mercier. It’s kind of interesting. It seems to be like a brand that is kind of has more like homage watches, right? Like the tank watch and stuff like that.

Federico: So, a brand that never really innovated. I actually loved their designs. A brand owned by Richemont, but that is selling so poorly that Richemont fired all the Baume & Mercier staff and gave it to a distributor Richemont should never done that. I love them, but the reality is they’re a D. 

28. Rado

Rado Ceramica Mens Chronograph
Rado Ceramica Mens Chronograph

Sven Raphael: Rado watches. Kind of an interesting design language. I know that you can buy them fake, so there must be some market for them. No idea.

Federico: Huge market in Pakistan and India. Known for their ceramic watches. Apart from that, nothing special. D. 

29. Maurice Lacroix

Maurice Lacroix is a luxury watch brand based in Switzerland. Maurice Lacroix was established in 1975
Maurice Lacroix is a luxury watch brand based in Switzerland. Maurice Lacroix was established in 1975.

Sven Raphael: Maurice Lacroix.

Federico: An interesting brand that made everything from absolute garbage, some very nice watches. Their Masterpiece collection – very high end – something they no longer make. Now they just have a homage watch to the Royal Oak. I’m gonna go with a D. 

30. Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis is a good watch brand for those seeking an ultra-high-end timepiece
Roger Dubuis is a good watch brand for those seeking an ultra-high-end timepiece

Sven Raphael: Okay. Next up is Roger Dubuis. No idea. Never heard the watch.

Federico: It’s Richemont’s Richard Mille. Very high-end watches. Very expensive watches. They change design language entirely every five years because they can’t sell them. Watchmaking, A-plus. As a brand D. 

31. F.P. Journe

Journe watches use gold in their designs including in the movement, dial and cases.
Journe watches use gold in their designs including in the movement, dial, and cases.

Sven Raphael: FP Journe. I think they’re more respected in the watch world. What do you think?

Federico: FP Journe is the one of the highest-end, independent watches. Great horology. Great everything apart from customer service. It’s very hard to buy one brand new. They expect you to pay beforehand, and they expect you to wait three years to deliver one. I’ve also heard some stories if, you know, the right people get the right things, you get one faster. Watchmaking, A-plus-plus. As a brand, B-minus. Just for the games. Don’t play games. 

32. Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co. the luxury jewelry maker collaborated with other high-end brands to produce limited-edition timepiece series.
Tiffany & Co. the luxury jewelry maker collaborated with other high-end brands to produce a limited-edition timepiece series.

Sven Raphael: Tiffany & Co. Very iconic. My guess would be that, watchmaking-wise, they’re not at the top of the game

Federico: Watchmaking-wise, they made one extremely beautiful watch that I want to show you later because I think you’d like it. It’s the East-West. Apart from that, D-minus. 

Sven Raphael: But, hey, blue box.

Federico: Blue box is true we got the Tiffany blue box. 

33. Louis Vuitton

Sven Raphael: All right. Next up, Louis Vuitton. I’d be surprised if it has anything higher than a D-minus.

Federico: Louis Vuitton is one of those brands highly on the rise. The Arno family has invested heavily. They built La Fabrique du Temps, which is their new factory. While they’re probably currently a D-plus, in the next five to ten years, they’re gonna be a B-minus. You know, you don’t expect it but they’re doing big things. 

Sven Raphael: Interesting. Very.

34. Bamford

On a basic level, they are just well-made, unique chronographs with good movements and tolerable price tags.
On a basic level, they are just well-made, unique chronographs with good movements and tolerable price tags.

Sven Raphael: Bamford. Never heard of them

Federico: Not even a watch brand. Just a watch. It’s just a company covers watches in black paint or black – whatever they call it. 

35. Zenith

Zenith watches are slightly more affordable than a Rolex and offer great value with their highly precise chronographs.
Zenith watches are slightly more affordable than Rolex and offer great value with their highly precise chronographs.

Sven Raphael: Zenith and people regard them highly

Federico: They regard them highly. They made a fantastic chronograph movement, but they really haven’t innovated for close to 70 years apart from recently. Now, they’re starting to. But, I would say B-minus. 

36. Bell and Ross

Bell & Ross is one of the youngest established names in the luxury watch industry, founded in Paris in 1992.
Bell & Ross is one of the youngest established names in the luxury watch industry, founded in Paris in 1992.

Sven Raphael: Bell and Ross. To me, they seem more like a kind of fashion brand. Is that right?

Federico: They are a fashion brand invented by two kids in college who never pretended to make anything else but a fashion brand. I mean, they were very honest about it. We want a high-quality watch that looks cool. Because of their honesty, they get a D-plus instead of a D. But, interesting-looking watches. 

37. Arnold & Son

Arnold & Son watches are expensive due to their premium materials, expert craftsmanship, and innovative designs.
Arnold & Son watches are expensive due to their premium materials, expert craftsmanship, and innovative designs.

Sven Raphael: Arnold & Son. Never heard.

Federico: A British brand originally changed hands many times. I’ve never had good experiences with them. While they’re very high-end, in my experience, they always break, and because of that, I’m gonna give them a D-plus, even though they would consider themselves probably a B. But they break, yeah. 

Sven Raphael: But if they break, yeah, pointless. How does the watch break?

Federico: Honestly, poor design. It’s always a movement issue. Something’s too fragile, not enough research and development. It’s common, unfortunately. 

38. Tudor

Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Heritage Pepsi 41mm Nato Automatic Men
Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Heritage Pepsi 41mm Nato Automatic Men

Sven Raphael: Okay. Interesting one. Tudor. Right. Often branded as the poor man’s Rolex, so would you rank them more in a D territory or better than Rolex?

Federico: So, no, I mean, they are the poor man’s Rolex because that’s what Rolex invented them to be – the affordable Rolex. They offer you more value for money than Rolex. Even though they are still significantly lower-end. I know I put Rolex as a C. I’m gonna put Tudor as a C-minus. Even though significantly lower-end than Rolex, you get more per dollar. You know, that’s why they’re so close. 

Sven Raphael: Bigger bang for the buck.

Federico: Absolutely, absolutely. 

39. Alpina

Alpinas collections are the Startimer collection, which feature all pilot watches.
Alpinas collection is the Startimer collection, which features all pilot watches.

Sven Raphael: Alpina. I only know them as the upgraded BMW.

Federico: I love the Alpena BMWs. This is a brand owned by Frederic Costa. Never sold particularly well. You can find them heavily discounted at a heavy discount. Not actually a bad watch. B-plus. 

40. Seiko

Seiko Prospex Automatic Diver SRPG21K1
Seiko Prospex Automatic Diver SRPG21K1

Sven Raphael: Seiko. I think a lot of people, when they’re starting out and don’t have much money, they always talk about Seiko as being the go-to. What’s your take?

Federico: So, here’s the thing. This is a very hard brand to categorize because they make everything from awful, very inexpensive watches to some of the best watches in the world. If I say A, which is where I want to put them, people are going to scream at me because they’re higher than Rolex, and they’re up there with Patek Philippe. But, if we take value as part of the equation and the fact that it’s so universally loved, how can Seiko not at least be a B-minus. At least. 

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41. Jacquet Droz

Jaquet Droz Tonneau GMT watch
Jaquet Droz Tonneau GMT watch

Sven Raphael: Jaquet Droz.

Federico: Jaquet Droz is owned by the Swatch group. They revived an old name from like the 1700s known for their asymmetric dials. Very expensive. Too expensive. C-minus. 

42. Laurent Ferrier

Highly regarded for its classically finished timepieces.
Highly regarded for its classically finished timepieces.

Sven Raphael: Laurent Ferrier.

Federico: Laurent Ferrier, like FP Journe, an independent watchmaker. Super high-end. I mean, that’s an A, for sure. 

43. Hamilton

American at origins and now Swiss based, the Hamilton Watch Company is one of the most appreciated watchmakers in the world.
American in origin and now Swiss-based, the Hamilton Watch Company is one of the most appreciated watchmakers in the world.

Sven Raphael: Hamilton Watches.

Federico: Hamilton, they make a couple of models I absolutely adore. It’s a great first Swiss automatic watch. Fairly inexpensive. C-minus. 

44. Longines

They are a lower market luxury watchmaker compared to many other high-end luxury watchmakers
They are a lower-market luxury watchmaker compared to many other high-end luxury watchmakers

Sven Raphael: Longines.

Federico: Very long history, especially in chronographs. They have the same syndrome that I’m sure you’ve heard me say multiple times. Today, they make some very inexpensive bad watches, and they make some great watches for the value. I would put them at a C-minus. 

45. H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser And Cie
H. Moser And Cie

Sven Raphael: What about H. Moser & Cie?

Federico: Moser. Well, I’m wearing one. Guys, it’s an A. It has to be an A. Even if you disagree with me, you’re wrong. It’s an A.

[both laugh] 

46. Parmigiani Fleurier

Quite simply, a Parmigiani Fleurier is designed to outlive its owner.
Quite simply, a Parmigiani Fleurier is designed to outlive its owner.

Sven Raphael: What about Parmigiani Fleurier?

Federico: Parmigiani Fleurier is a fantastic watch brand with a name that gets confused with cheese all too often. Their designs are a little hideous, but the watchmaking is top-notch. C-plus. If you can get it used, save a lot of money, it’s a B minus. 

47. Gucci

Gucci Interlocking G
Gucci Interlocking G

Sven Raphael: And then, there’s, of course, Gucci.

Federico: Oh, well, is there something below F? 

Sven Raphael: I don’t think so.

Federico: Like F-minus. Let me just set it on fire. 

Sven Raphael: Interesting, interesting. Because Louis Vuitton, you’re like, is on the rise. Gucci is like…

Federico: Yeah, cause Gucci just puts a stripe on their watch and the G’s and and people think, “Oh!” You see a Gucci watch. It’s expensive. It’s Gucci. Louis Vuitton is is doing work in horology. You know, they’re inventing movements, hiring watchmakers, designing unique and contemporary timepieces. You might not like them, but you know, it’s quality; whereas, Gucci’s branding. Branding! Entirely, all branding. 

Sven Raphael: Got it.

48. Weiss

Are manufactured and assembled in their Nashville workshop, and designed for everyday wear.
They are manufactured and assembled in their Nashville workshop, and designed for everyday wear.

Sven Raphael: What about Weiss?

Federico: Weiss. You’re gonna get me in trouble. It’s an American-made watch. Listen, it’s not a bad watch. It really isn’t, but it’s got to be a D because they focus too much on their American-made. It’s a Swiss design movement that is machined in Los Angeles. Like how American-made is that really? Like, I don’t know. They argue that it’s legal. I argue it’s deception. It’s a whole deal 

49. Armani

Stainless steel remains the most preferable material for manufacturing the cases and bracelets.
Stainless steel remains the most preferable material for manufacturing the cases and bracelets.

Sven Raphael: And then Armani, which I would guess is probably similar to Gucci.

Federico: It’s like, equally, they both belong in the fire pit. F-minus. 

50. Tissot

Tissot T-Classic PRX Powermatic 80
Tissot T-Classic PRX Powermatic 80

Sven Raphael: Tissot. So, I don’t know where to place them.

Federico: Tissot is one of those watches that gives you good bang-per-buck. Like it’s not a super high-end watch at all very similar to Hamilton. It’s like far from extraordinary, but it’s a great entry point into the Swiss watch, you know, game. Six, seven hundred dollars gets you a pretty nice watch. C-minus because their value is great, but D if it was just horology. 

51. Ming

Ming 29.01 Worldtimer
Ming 29.01 Worldtimer

Sven Raphael: What about Ming watches? I followed Ming, you know, as a photographer long before he had watches. And then I knew that he was a watch photographer and then he started his watches. I looked at him once because I thought the design was unusual, was kind of flashy. But when I had it, I was like, “Oh, that feels not nice.”

Federico: I actually did love Ming watches. They exploded for a time. I’m selling for multiples of their price point. Unfortunately, there was a snafu where they had a limited edition release. It didn’t function well. No big deal. That can happen. Customers reached out. They didn’t get a very good response. This was a big talking point in the forums. If Ming would have handled that better, they would be a C. But, right now, they have to be a D-minus because, if you can’t handle customer service, then you shouldn’t be selling watches. 

52. Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef Zodiac Midnight
Van Cleef Zodiac Midnight

Sven Raphael: Van Cleef & Arpels. More like a jewelry company.

Federico: A jewelry company. They’re known for poetic complications, so mechanisms that don’t do anything time-related. But, they’re almost like mechanized art. Two couples kissing on a bridge or, you know, almost like an ornate automata, like a jewelry box. If you can find one and if you’re a female because most of them are for ladies, then you know, it’s an A-minus. But, they make so few watches that it’s almost irrelevant. 

53. Junghans

Junghans is often perceived as an under-the-radar watch brand.
Junghans is often perceived as an under-the-radar watch brand.

Sven Raphael: Junghans. German precision. Overrated?

Federico: Not overrated at all, I think. It’s one of those brands that is cool. It’s like a less expensive Nomos. It’s like the Hamilton of Germany. Got them at a discount. Decent quality. But, you know, D, D-plus just because they don’t do anything special, but they’re certainly not bad. 

54. Bulova

Bulova 96B251
Bulova 96B251

Sven Raphael: Bulova.

Federico: Bulova. F-plus. Haven’t been relevant for decades. 

55. Bovet Fleurier

Versatile and elegant, the Amadéo Fleurier 43 Monsieur BOVET
Versatile and elegant, the Amadéo Fleurier 43 Monsieur BOVET

Sven Raphael: Bovet Fleurier.

Federico: Very similar to Parmigiani, polarizing designs but fantastic watchmaking B-minus.

56. Oris

Oris is by no stretch considered high-horology or high-end compared to brands such as Patek Philippe.
Oris is by no stretch considered high-horology or high-end compared to brands such as Patek Philippe.

Sven Raphael: Oris.

Federico: Oris. A lot of people love this brand. Fantastic dive watches. Started making in-house movements now. Very fairly-priced. You can pick up a nice Oris for not much more than a thousand dollars. I’d say, C-minus along with Longines and Hamilton and stuff like that. 

57. Ressence

Ressence watches are expensive, but there are reasons the unique design, and just how much it took to get there.
Ressence watches are expensive, but there are reasons for the unique design, and just how much it took to get there.

Sven Raphael: Ressence. Never heard of them.

Federico: Ressence. It’s kind of a hipster brand. Independent. They do like oil-filled watches with interesting displays. Pain in the butt if it ever breaks. Seems interesting but not for me. 

Conclusion

Sven Raphael: Well, that was an impressive rundown of knowledge. Federico, thank you very much for sharing that with us, and our viewers appreciate you.

Federico: Thank you for the opportunity to talk fashion and watches with you. It’s been a true pleasure and a lot of fun. 

Sven Raphael: Well, it’s also great to see the man in person because Federico often supplies us with watches for our videos, and I really appreciate you for that. Thank you, man.

Federico: Oh, my pleasure! Thank you for having me and, guys, thank you for watching. Don’t be too harsh on me in the comments.

Reader Comments

  1. Guest was very knowledgeable. I have to give him credit for being in the watch business. I find the watch hype too much. (He should have been smoking a Partagas and drinking a single malt while discussing his opinions.)

    It was interesting how the host over emphasized his ability to pronounce the names of the watch companies. That was funny.

    I have had two watches starting in 1983 with a stainless Rolex Date Just and in 2000 gold Rolex Day-Date. I am pleased with Rolex. It’s amazing all the hype that they have for the brand. I find the watch business boring and if given any of the watches listed, I would immediately turn around and sell it.

    When I was younger, I liked the Corum watch that was made with a gold coin. Not sure if they make that model anymore.

    I

  2. Hmmm- not really any โ€œAโ€™s.โ€ So all things being relative, I would think the rating should be best to worst without letter grades because not one of these brands rates high enough by those judging. So what criteria garners an โ€œA?โ€

    1. Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sonne, Laurent Ferrier, and H. Moser & Cie were all rated at an A grade by Federico.

  3. Greetings,

    Feddy is one of those guys who enjoys making up complex, arcane rules to games nobody wants to play.

    This fella berates time-honored watches that relect personal style regardless of brand or price with neither evidence or objective criteria

    This article represents the worst possible exercise in irrelevant pretense.

    What’s next?

    “Parsing Fort Belvedere’s Boutonnieres: Pale Purple Alpine Rose versus Ivory Spray Rose: Texas Steel Cage Death Match!”

    This is like counting deck chairs on the “Titanic.”

    Maybe presenter could return to publishing helpful style advice for men who just want to present themselves to their best advantage.

    Respectfully hiking up my stoller suit in order comply with our Code of Conduct,

    Andrew Gregg,
    Palm Springs, California.

  4. Good afternoon,

    I found the article very informative, humorous, and enjoyable. Unfortunately the spelling errors were somewhat distracting.

    Sincerely,

    Ian

  5. After reading this list I feel Iโ€™m giving nothing away by continuing to use my fatherโ€™s 1950โ€™s Omega Constellation, but I also like my 1940โ€™s Gruen Curvex on occasion.

  6. HI love the videos- how about some help here—MING. Prices are down, I think they are very interesting but what do you think? Quality etc. Thank you!

Comments are closed.