Pitti Uomo 82 2012 DOs and DON’Ts
A few months ago, we reported on the outfit DOs and DON’Ts of Pitti Uomo 81 trade show. With Pitti Uomo 82 in full swing, we would like to continue this tradition and discuss a number of outfits today. Also, make sure to check out our Pitti Uomo Picture Gallery, which contains more photographs.
Unlike in January, the thermometer read 100°F (38°C) in Florence, Italy, and as you can imagine, even the best summer suit may not keep you from overheating, and so there were a number of different outfit combinations this time around.
Interestingly, there were a number of men in blue suits at Pitti. Naturally, these weren’t your everyday blue business suits, but much rather they were special in terms of cut, cloth, details or all of the above.
First, let’s look at this man in the unusual double breasted 6×3 jacket. It seems to be made of denim and has three patch pockets along with slim notched lapels. It is combined with a white pocket square, white buttons, white shirt and some kind of a boutonniere. In combination with the aviator sunglasses, cigarette and hair style he looks a bit rebellious to me.
Next up is Luca Rubinacci in an electric / royal blue double breasted suit with concealed buttons. The last time I saw this cut was in a photo from the 1970′s. The blue is beautiful shade, in my opinion, especially for a summer suit. The two patch pockets have pointed flaps, the trousers are cuffed, and though concealed, the buttons are made of blonde horn. Paired with brown loafers, a green tie, a colored pocket square and bright green sunglasses, the objective of the outfit is clearly to stand out. Even the plain brown shoes and simple light blue shirt may not change that. Note that he does not show any cuff. In his lapel, he wears the Rubinacci signature coral dangle, which is features a little horn and an elephant – apparently a Neapolitan tradition.
The next blue suit seems to be tailored out of blue cotton . Even in this small photo, you can clearly see visible hand stitching all along the seems. While some people like the display obvious handwork, others disqualify it as showy. While I generally lean towards the latter group, I can see its appeal for a casual summer suit. What do you think?
Apart from blue, it is obvious that colors continue to play a defining role at Pitti Uomo. The monotony of brown, grey, khaki and navy blue has been overruled by all kinds of colors ranging from vibrant red and green to more muted earth tones and tropical colors.
While some outfits are over the top, I welcome the general trend towards a little more color.
For example, take a look at these light lime green, low-rise trousers. Most men would not have dreamed of wearing this kind of color 5 years ago. Note that he doesn’t wear a belt, despite the belt loops. I do like his plaid jacket, though a less flamboyant pocket square would be more to my taste.
On the left, we see one of the Ricci brothers from Sciamat in a green blazer with a purple shirt, a burgundy & yellow tie, khaki trousers and brown shoes. While this color combination sounds quite bold, the outfit is not really flashy and I like that. Of course, the puffy sleeves are not to everyone’s taste.
The guy on the right is clearly louder with his powder blue jacket and orange trousers. He accessorizes with a green knit buttonhole flower and a second pair of glasses in his breast pocket.
The next gentleman seems to wear a baby corduroy blazer with either leather or pewter buttons. Very much in the style of Lino Ieluzzi, he opted for the patch pockets with a double breasted coat. He quickly realized that the scarf he brought was a total overkill, considering the warm temperatures.
Lino in his typical style.
Another loud outfit: a red single breasted jacket with a light blue gingham tie, a vividly dotted shirt, and light blue skinny jeans.
On the contrary, this gentleman is dressed in white and khaki – much more subdued but more stylish in my opinion. I can’t say the same for his awkward pose…
Many of the street style pictures we see here were shot by the Canadian Tommy Ton for GQ. Since he is rarely the subject of the camera, I thought it would be interesting to add a picture of him.
Accessories are essential in creating a unique look and as such, you often see accessory overload at Pitti Uomo.
Some people seem to think more is better, and so they end up with wearing a pile of watches, pins, pocket squares, sunglasses etc. Sometimes, they end up looking more like a Christmas tree, rather than a well dressed individual.
This is Wanny Antonio Di Filippo and while his colorful accessories are not for me, he pulls them off authentically. He looks a turn of the century impressionist painter! To me this is style; not my style but style nevertheless.
The mustache is also a kind of accessory that has a following that is increasing rapidly. Here the piercings come into play and once again, though it is not my style, I find it interesting and unique.
When I see this picture, the first association I have is Casanova or someone who tries to adapt him in modern times. If it is so hot that you can’t bear it, skip the jacket and choose a nice polo shirt instead of wearing your shirt unbuttoned half way to your belly button…though I suspect that this person’s motivations have little to do with comfort in the heat.
This young man chose nice colors for his outfit. I like the brown derby shoes in combination with the khaki pants, light brown jacket, light grey vest, and orange tie. I’m not a fan of the loose tie knot – I wear my Tie Snug with most of my ties – or the resulting tip of the tie peaking out of the vest. What are your thoughts?
More photogtaphs from Pitti can be found at the Pitti Uomo Picture Gallery.
Picture credit: Tommy Ton, GQ, Four Pins, fashionising.com