Pitti Uomo Looks 85

Pitti Uomo 85 Outfits

It’s time again, as we always do, to share some photos of men’s outfits from Pitti Uomo. Most things have been said or written about the event, so I will simply refer you to our past posts. Today, I will share some photos and commentary of the outfits from the event.

Plaid & Windowpane are popular

This season, windowpane and plaid flannels as well as worsteds seemed to be rather popular. Of course, you can find everything from a subtle windowpane in muted colors to bold plaid in loud colors.

Windowpane suit with green tie and finely striped shirt

Windowpane suit with green tie and finely striped shirt

Very nice, muted outfit in a mottled brown fabric with a light blue windowpane. Note that this windowpane is almost square and hence it does not make the wearer appear taller, an effect that can be achieved with windowpanes that are taller than they are wide. The knit tie in olive green and beige is likewise mottled and a great companion to a brown suit. Personally, I am fond of combinations in these colors, which is why I created 2 knit ties similar to it. While one is better for brown combinations, the other works better with gray or blue. In combination with the white and blue fine striped shirt, it would make for a rather quiet ensemble, if he had skipped the tortoiseshell sunglasses dangling from his chest pocket.  The pocket square in orange provides enough contrast on its own.

Bold green jacket

Bold green jacket

This outfit is what I would call ‘Pitti-Peacock’, in the sense that it is bold, colorful, loud and most importantly, it looks like too much thought went into it. A jacket like this has to be the only accent because it is so dominant. Leaving all three sleeve buttons open does not add sprezzatura, nor does the orange sweater or the dandy-esquely folded white linen pocket square. Orange itself is fantastic for winter outfits and pairs particularly well with brown or green jackets, but it suits an outfit if it is a little more subdued.

Bold patterns and colors - over the top

Bold patterns and colors – over the top

Here we see Pitti-Peacock outfit #2. It consists of a bold jacket, unusual buttons in pewter and mother of pearl, a range of textures, patterns and materials as well as colors. At the end of the day it makes the wearer look like he wanted to draw attention to him, no matter the kind.

Seeking for attention!

Seeking attention!

The patterns worn by the person on the left are classic – a blue windowpane SB suit with a Prince of Wales check overcoat in black and white. The brown tie doesn’t really fit in, nor does the mini red boutonniere. The size is proportionally awkward and even Charles Barkley wears these kind of fake knit/leather pins on his lapel now. You are much better off with a real boutonniere, real or otherwise, that actually looks like the real thing (such as here). The man on the right is clearly seeking attention, wearing a windowpane suit as well as an overcoat in roughly the same size.  In combination with the red and blue striped socks, his manifold wristbands, light blue sunglasses and monogrammed Louis Vuitton case, he looks like he just came to Pitti to be photographed.

Overcoats

Overcoats were generally colorful, sometimes in nice shades of blues, winter whites or brown. Also, the cape seems to be gaining in popularity. Our contributor Miguel will tell you all about his new Portuguese cape shortly.

Beyond Fabric Cape

Beyond Fabric Cape

Camel overcoat with printed silk scarf

Camel overcoat with printed silk scarf

Beautiful, classic ensemble with camel paletot, madder inspired silk scarf in red and yellow, and a tweed tie. To me this outfit is great because it combines one standout pieces with other more muted elements, yet is it unique all along.

red overcoat with contrast pick stitching

red overcoat with contrast pick stitching

Men who wear red overcoats obviously love to be the center of attention. While I wouldn’t wear such a bright overcoat myself, I find this outfit interesting because of the color scheme. Instead of the yellow pocket square, a navy micropattern would have been preferable, but I like the suits combination of mid gray, navy, red and white.

Orange Casentino cloth made up as a duffle coatOrange Casentino cloth made up as a duffle coat

Orange Casentino cloth made up as a duffle coat

Casentino cloth in all colors has become popular due to its texture that looks more like a pilling felt rather than a fabric. Here the classic Casentino orange is made into duffle coat with the classic green lining. If I would ever go with such a color, I would only choose the original Casentino because that way you can at least build your outfit on history, whereas in this outfit it seems just obnoxious.

Lino seems to have developed a taste for blue overcoats and here he wears a gingham checked blue overcoat and he now buckles his double monks!

Bold patterns, texture and contrast colors with yellow gloves

Bold patterns, texture and contrast colors with yellow gloves

Chances are you will not see this picture outside of Pitti. First, the trousers on the left are extremely narrow, very short with big cuffs and paired with bold herringbone overcoat and rust colored suede shoes and gloves, you can tell it is a fashion forward person. The person next to him wears a casentino cloth overcoat with slim winter white pants, blue and red striped socks, suede double monk shoes and yellow gloves.

Unusual blue overcoats & Luca Rubinacci as usual in bold patterns and daring color combinations.

Guerre in an unusual color combination

Guerre in an unusual color combination

Mottled Melange Fabrics

One trend I particularly enjoy is mottled or melange fabrics. Most of the time, these look like solid fabrics from a few yards away but once you get closer, you can see all the different shades in the wool. Tweeds  or flannel often have this melange effect and in my opinion, it adds a sophisticated component to the outfit because the color has more depth.

Unusual double breasted vest in Donegal tweed

Unusual double breasted vest in Donegal tweed

Donegal tweed is one of these mottled melange fabrics and here you can see the beautiful brown up close. The blue jacket is also mottled but in a softer way, without the distinct knobs of the tweed. Which kind of melange fabric do you prefer?

Mottled, fainted red jacket with green knit vest - too short, and rise of pants too low

Mottled, fainted red jacket with green knit vest – too short, and rise of pants too low

While I think the color of this jacket is excellent, it does not fit its wearer because it is obviously way too short, just like the knit vest underneath. On top of that, the pants have a very low rise and in combination with the belt this outfit should never be imitated.

Herringbone sport coat

Herringbone sport coat

Personally, I think this is a fantastic melange sportcoat. The collar tab shows it is country, just like the hacking pockets which add a dynamic flair. Ironically, this is not from Pitti but a picture that is several years old, showing that classic style is timeless. I am not a fan of leather tote bags for men but each to his own.

Mottled mid brown three piece suit

Mottled mid brown three piece suit

Beautiful brown melange suit.

Miscellaneous pics

Here a few other interesting shots. Note the man in khaki. In my opinion, it is an excellent example why you should never mix different shades of khaki – it just looks off. Instead, create more contrast between the garments if you have to wear the same color, and the result will look much better.

Photo credit: GQ, Manolo and others.

18 replies
  1. Theron
    Theron says:

    I’m curious to know Mr. Schneider’s opinion of the puffer vest over a suit jacket. (See 3rd to last photo.) It’s a look that comes back to the style pages every winter, but I can’t get used to the look of a jacket’s lower quarters peeking out from underneath an additional layer.

    Reply
  2. Charles E. Albridge Jr.
    Charles E. Albridge Jr. says:

    The camel overcoat with printed scarf I would wear. The scarf is the only accent in an otherwise subdued combination, and I like that a good deal.

    The mottled brown suit is quite handsome. I already tend to wear browns and this would make a good addition.

    The herringbone sport coat would look very nice hanging in my closet.

    Everything else is just a bit to garish for my taste.

    Reply
  3. patricia
    patricia says:

    Ive never been a fan of narrow leg trousers, even more with a cuff, as they have to be short to sit above the shoe making the leg look short or as if the manufacturer ran out of fabric.

    Reply
  4. Ville
    Ville says:

    ‘Personally, I think this is a fantastic melange sportcoat. The collar tab shows it is country, just like the hacking pockets which add a dynamic flair. Personally I am not a fan of leather tote bags for men but each to his own.

    Cited from: Pitti Uomo 85 Outfits — Gentleman’s Gazette http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/pitti-uomo-85-outfits/#ixzz2pzhbg0Ew

    This photo is not from Pitti, it was published by The Sartorialist years ago. I saved it on my PC back then, and the file is several years old. A great jacket, still.

    Reply
  5. Mark Zwizlo
    Mark Zwizlo says:

    Agree with Patricia vis a vis the narrow leg trousers.

    A camel overcoat is always classic and a wardrobe must for any Chap around town

    Love the Gianni Fontana ensemble. The pince nez & pipe adds a certain gravitas.

    Unsure of the unusual double breasted waistcoat in Donegal Tweed. But maybe with a different outfit it has possibilities

    Also like the window pane check suit in the header, maybe cut slightly different, but with a brown bowler hat (Think in America it’s known as a Derby?) and a cigar! Well one would look quite the giddy sportsman at Sandown Park for the Gee Gee’s :>)

    Reply
  6. Brock
    Brock says:

    To your first comment, I’m really not liking the bold, wide windowpane, especially on the shorter gents. It looks caricature-ish and makes them look shorter and kind of silly.

    Goes to show that just because something is “in” doesn’t mean it’s right for you.

    -Brock

    Reply
  7. Hal
    Hal says:

    The soft brown three piece suit aside, there really isn’t that much here to excite. It all tends to look desperately ‘try hard’ to me – missing the elegance that they wearer strives for. Pitti anyone who feels obliged to go.

    On a different note, I’ll be interested to read about the cape, though I can’t really imagine ever wearing one outside a theatrical production. I could just about see the caped Ulster or Inverness coat having a renaissance though.

    Reply
  8. Edwin
    Edwin says:

    All these pictures are of young men and no one of the older generation…wish I was one of the young ones. How about us older folks fifties and sixties ect. We still want to dress for occasions but cloths for us are not what those young men are wearing…we need more conservative style cloths….Hope to see something for us older guy’s…..

    Reply

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  1. […] comments from our last Pitti article asked for pictures of more subdued outfits.  So, we put together a series of exclusive pictures […]

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