Pitti Uomo 86

Pitti Uomo 86 Street Style – Day I

It’s once again time for some outfits from Pitti Uomo 86. If you would like to see more pictures from Pitti Uomo, please click here. Just like in the past, we subdivided the outfits into 3 categories: Young(er)men, Seasoned Gentlemen and Pitti Peacocks.

Young(er) Men

Jacket with narrow button stance - the collar does not look good with the tie knot

Jacket with narrow button stance – the collar does not look good with the tie knot

First up this gentleman wears a shirt with an unfused, soft collar. For summer that’s great but if you have a classic collar with little spread, you should wear a slim tie knot such as the four-in-hand, and not wide tie knots like a windsor of half-windsor. The jacket has a very narrow horizontal button stance and of course it is short. Personally, I like the color combination of blue and brown very much.

Lapel pin dangling without boutonniere loop

Grenadine tie, lapel pin dangling without boutonniere loop

Green and work well together most of the time, but if you decide to wear a boutonniere in your lapel buttonhole, make sure you have a stem keeper so it doesn’t dangle like here in this picture.

Short coats and slimmer ties

Short coats and slimmer ties

On the left, we see another combination of green and blue with a checked shirt. The green makes it unusual but at the same time it is subdued and classic- a great all year around color for men. In the middle you can see a light blue windowpane suite. Lately, windowpanes have become rather popular, and I really welcome that. Personally, I like the fact that the lapels are not too slim, and while the length of the coat is in line with the current fashion of short jackets, I personally prefer it a little longer.

Tassel loafers without socks

Tassel loafers without socks

Although club blazers are quintessentially British, you can see it worn here in a very Italian way: unbuttoned with short, white pants, dark knit tie, and brown suede tassel loafers without socks and of course sunglasses.

6x1 Club Blazer with gold buttons and white trousers

6×1 Club Blazer with gold buttons and white trousers

3roll 2 Beige coat with gingham shirt and matching tie

3roll 2 Beige coat with gingham shirt and matching tie

This beige outfit is again rather subdued. No big contrasts or strong color, just the wool tie and white pocket square adds a bit of texture. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice the handmade buttonhole, the pick stitching and the Italian shape of the patch pocket. Overall, this is a great example of a young man wearing and outfit that does not scream ” I am unique” but that’s the reasons he looks so well put together.

Almost everybody now leaves their sleeve buttons undone

Almost everybody now leaves their sleeve buttons undone

More green jackets. Whether it is a light green linen jacket or one with subtle windowpanes, green seems to be more popular again. If you already have the usual grey, blue and brown sportcoats, consider something green.

Green summer DB blazer with white pants

Green summer DB blazer with white pants

Seasoned Gentlemen

Light Pink summer blazer

Light Pink summer blazer

On the left, we have a blue double windowpane suit, striped shirt and blue tie with boutonniere flower and red bordered pocket square. It’s obviously full of accents especially if you take another look at this wrist, but is still less attention seeking than the outfit on the right. This chap clearly wantsto be noticed. I think a blue linen or knit tie would have been the better choice or even something in a darker green, but he certainly has the guts to try something new and that’s admirable!

Lino in blue small Gingham Jacket

Lino in blue small Gingham Jacket

Lino pulls off his standard DB cut, this time in a small blue check. It seems like his outfits haven’t changed much over the years. He prefers Rayban Wayfarers – the old kind, regular neckties with the embroidered 7 (no bow ties), wrist bands and often blue colors. I wonder whether he will continue to remain true to this style.

Seasoned Gentleman in navy striped suit with triple stripe tie

Seasoned Gentleman in navy striped suit with triple stripe tie

This seasoned gent wears a 4×2 navy striped suit with a white shirt and a double stripe brown tie. I am sure, it was very deliberate to combine stripes with stripes and although the stripes are bigger, the distance is about the same, which is why I think a different tie would have been better. Apart from that, the cloth reminds me more of a business suit, however by adding white mother of pearl buttons, and by leaving the shirt cuffs unbottened the whole ensemble gets a much more casual note.

Three piece summer suit with spalla camicia and knit tie that pokes out of underneath the vest

Three piece summer suit with spalla camicia and knit tie that pokes out of underneath the vest

It’s admirable to see someone pulling off a three piece suit in the summer! No matter how thin, breathable or light the fabric is, the extra layer is insulating. I like the color of the suit as well as the pattern matching, though I would advice against having the tie peak out from underneath your vest, because it looks more sloppy than nonchalant.

Toni Rossi from Halston in Naples wearing white

Toni Rossi from Halston in Naples wearing white

Toni Rossi from the men’s store Halston in Napoli pulled off an all white look – it suits him and is appropriate for the weather. On the other hand, if you have pale skin, avoid wearing all white outfits.

Vest way too short

Vest way too short

This vest looks like it came from his son’s closet or from a vintage store, because back in the day, men were shorter and their trousers had a higher rise. Consequently, the vest needed to be shorter. When you wear a vest, always make sure that it covers the waistband of your pants and never wear a belt with it. Either suspenders or side adjusters because the belt will make you look bigger around your waistline.

White and off white seasonsed Gentlemen

White and off white seasonsed Gentlemen

Wearing shirt cuffs unbuttoned really helps to keep you cool. However, when you do it ensure that the sleeve length is right. Otherwise your shirt ends on your thumb which is too long.

Windowpand sportcoat

Windowpane sportcoat

Great windowpand sportcoat and because it is the centerpiece of the outfit, the pants and accessories are more subdued, with the exception of the camouflage laptop bag. When you incorporate one loud piece into your outfit, tone down the other ones, otherwise it will likely not work.

Bold Prince of Wales Plaid Jacket

Bold Prince of Wales Plaid Jacket

Personally, I like the Prince of Wales plaid very much, at the same time, the scale seen here is probably better suited to an overcoat than a sport jacket that is worn with a casual shirt.

Isaia seems to be rather popular

Isaia seems to be rather popular

Beige and brown are fantastic colors, especially when combined with light blue or white. At the moment it seems like the 6×2 double breasted, peak lapel blazer is the most sought after jacket style although a single breasted silhouette would probably be better for warm summers, because the extra layer of cloth makes you feel warmer. At the same time, I favor a DB silhouette myself and so I can totally understand why you would want to wear a DB jacket in the summer.

 

Pitti Peacocks

Pitti Peacock is a term I coined a couple of seasons ago. It describes men who dress very flamboyantly in bold patterns and colors to attract attentions like Peacocks. At Pitti Uomo you will probably find the highest density of such peacock outfits anywhere, and while I personally would not wear these outfits, I respect the wearers for pushing the boundaries and for trying to create something new. What do you think about those outfits?

Pitti Peacocks

Pitti Peacocks

Tortoiseshel sunglasses, light grey DB blazer and crazy neon yellow start pring pants

Tortoiseshell sunglasses, light grey DB blazer and crazy neon yellow star printed pants

DB coat with printed Hawaii shorts

DB coat with printed Hawaii shorts

For more pictures from Pitti, click here.

Picture credit: Gloria Yang, manolo.se, King

24 replies
  1. Steve Smith
    Steve Smith says:

    Your website has become awful to read. Just ads everywhere promoting your own shop and where there aren’t ads promoting your shop, there’s ads promoting other people’s shop to help you pay for your own. You should be ashamed of yourself.

    Reply
    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Funny that you say that Steve, because I get emails from people telling me they don’t know about our store and I should mention it more often.
      That being said, it is a subtle text link and you don’t need to click it. After all, it is free content and nobody forces you to read it. But if you do, please state your facts correctly:
      WE have one little banner on every page and sometimes a link, that’s it. If that’s too much for you. Just stop reading. All posts are educational – the Sherry Guide, the Renaissance Guide, the Wedding Etiquette Guide, the Derby Guide… If all people were like you, I would stop to write. Luckily, by far the vast majority of readers appreciate what we do.

      Just hosting this website alone costs north of $1,000 a month.
      How would you suggest we create revenue?
      Just out of curiosity, what free content do you provide to others in a helpful way?

      By the way, I am happy with creating content that is helpful to others, and I would be ashamed of myself leaving a purely negative comment without any constructive criticism ;)

      Reply
  2. Boswell
    Boswell says:

    Excellent pictures and explanations of each style. Thanks. What stands out in all of these photos are the beautiful jackets and ties, and the colour combinations. A couple of things: firstly, men should forget the sprezzatura shtick; it almost always looks contrived. What is the point in spending half an hour making your outfit look as if you’ve just slept in it? Secondly, older gents need to have their hair cut! They don’t look debonair or flamboyant; they just look shaggy and unkempt. By the way, there are a number of typos in your post.

    Reply
  3. Patrick
    Patrick says:

    Thank you for these articles, I greatly appreciate them. Personally, some of the outfits are much too flamboyant for me, but that is up to each one’s personal style. On a different topic, do you know who were the designers for Hollywood’s leading men like Errol Flynn, Tyrone Powell, Clark Gable and even Yul Brynner(sp?)? I personally find that they were elegantly dressed in a masculine manner that was outstanding. Once again, thank you.
    Patric

    Reply
  4. Joe
    Joe says:

    RE the Pitti Peacocks… Maybe it should be Pity Peacocks? In the first picture I actually like the orange blazer man’s ensemble. But the others remind me of Scarlet O’Hara wearing the curtains to go into Atlanta. The second one… stylish long-johns, too bad he forgot his pants. And the third? Wow. You would have to have balls of chromium steel to walk down the street in that. The thing that crosses my mind is… why spend the money these outfits obviously cost to look, well, silly. I’m afraid I’m a more traditional guy. I feel like I’m really getting close to the edge wearing a light gray windowpane thee-piece with wide peaked lapels and cuffed trousers.

    Reply
  5. Glenda
    Glenda says:

    Great post (as always!); I enjoy your blog very much, SRS, both for entertainment & information. All of today’s pictures are fun to see. Even those gents on the edge & over the edge, while not my taste, I enjoyed seeing them & can admire their efforts.

    Reply
  6. Jay
    Jay says:

    I must say… I really enjoyed the peacock section. High entertainment value. You really should do an entire DEDICATED post on the annual peacock sightings in their environment!

    Reply
  7. w. adam mandelbaum esq.
    w. adam mandelbaum esq. says:

    There is a difference between the classic and the clownish. More of the latter is revealed in these photos. As always, Sven, an excellent job revealing the full spectrum of men’s wear. It has been a pleasure seeing your site evolve into what it has now become.

    Reply
  8. Benny V
    Benny V says:

    A heartfelt Thank You to you Sven for the time, energy, effort taken to provide such great information on such a broad spectrum of topics; ALL of which is interesting and useful if your readers can be less critical and more appreciative of them. I also do hope you are making a great income and your products do sell at your web site as that too is the by product of Capitalism and the Adam Smith “Free Hand” at work ! No one goes to work for charity and why shouldn’t you recoup for your time and effort and outlay of cash to keep such great articles and site going ?! Lastly , unless and untill all the negative readers who are critical of you have managed to provide more, they should not be so criticical of your great work!

    Reply
    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Dear Benny,
      Overall, most of our readers are appreciative, and even compared to other websites, very, very few people are critical. Personally, I like critique but it should be substantive and constructive. It’s always easy to say this is all bad, but doing it better is much more difficult. Most negative comm enters lack perspective, they would never work for free, yet they expect to consume content for free. If you pay for something, it’s a different ball game, but if you don’t you better show what you can bring to the table. Generally, you never hear from these people again, once you confront them with those facts.

      Reply
  9. Jojo Remeny
    Jojo Remeny says:

    I am a fashion designer / tailor . Currently im making hand crafted suits..I have been learning from a an 85year old master tailor who won savile Row tailor of the year award in1957… so my suit making is very traditional not fused at all.
    It evident by your posts of suits you don’t like the contempoimposing ourof being unique and trying to be too classical with your choices with your choices… Also I note some of these so called hand tailored jackets are terribly fitted and not balanced…shoot the tailor. !! dont ve too dogmatic and imposing with how men should dress… as it seems you are a boring critic

    Reply
    • Sven Raphael Schneider
      Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Dear Jojo,
      There are many ways to Rome, and we emphasize that on a regular basis. I am also happy about critique when it is constructive. In this case, it’s neither constructive nor fully understandable. So, please tell me in proper English what exactly we should improve on, thank you.
      All the best

      Reply
  10. janeleonard
    janeleonard says:

    Pitti Uomo fashion styles are astounding. They make the best contemporary collections of clothing right from the color up to the design and style that really stands out form the crowd!! Great fashion explores.

    Reply
  11. Erik
    Erik says:

    Sorry, but that really IS lame to steal the photos from the NZZ (Neue Zuricher Zeitung).
    Not even a a proper credit. Very unprofessional.

    Reply

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