11 Ties for the Bold: Ascots, Bolos, String Ties and other Alternative Ties for Men

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The necktie is a prime focus for us here at the Gentleman’s Gazette–we’ve devoted a number of articles and videos on our channel to how to tie bow ties and various kinds of necktie knots, and we sell a wide array of ties in the Fort Belvedere Shop. But of course, there are a great many other neckwear styles out there aside from the regular neckties and bow ties, which begs the question: are there situations where any of these other styles can or should be worn?

In this guide, we’ll discuss styles of neckwear that go beyond the typical long ties and bows, where they come from, and when or if you should wear them today.

Cravats & Ascots

Cravat

Cravat is an umbrella term for any cloth that is tied around the neck for decorative purposes. As such, it is in a sense the forefather of the necktie, the bow tie, scarves, and most other types of neckwear.

The name cravat is derived from Croatian or “Croat” mercenaries who fought during the Thirty Years’ War of 1618-1648. These mercenaries came into contact with the French, who were impressed by their colorful neckerchiefs. Over time, the French term “Croate”, in reference to the neckwear, became “cravat.” Of course, the fashion of wearing something around one’s neck decoratively dates back much further than the 17th century, but these Croatian mercenaries were the ones who really popularized it.

formal ascot
Formal Ascot or Cravat from Fort Belvedere

In British English, the term cravat or krəˈvæt/ also day cravat usually refers to a more informal type of day ascot that’s worn under the collar of the shirt. This is in contrast to the dress ascot, also called a dress cravat, formal ascot, or plastron. These terms refer to a more structured neckband with wide pointed ends, usually made of silk.

The Royal Ascot Race meeting at the Ascot Racecourse in the British town of Ascot, gave the neckwear its name, although such dress cravats were no longer worn with morning dress at the Royal Races by the Edwardian era. The dress ascot is now worn almost exclusively with formal day wear or morning dress. And if you’d like to learn more, we have be sure sure to check our guide to day cravats and formal ascots, as well as how to tie them.

With those forms out of the way, let’s dig into the more niche and obscure neckwear options found throughout history, next.

Stock Tie

The stock is a close cousin of the ascot and cravat, which comes in two varieties. The shaped stock, which is a single, long, pre-sewn piece of fabric with no folds, with a slit in its center back to facilitate tying and the older “folded stock,” which is folded lengthwise and pressed but not stitched. These folded stocks were originally white neckbands of starched linen or muslin, first worn around 1730. They would later incorporate colors and patterns and become more similar to modern day cravats.

Four-Fold Stock Tie - Foxhunting Traditional
Four-Fold Stock Tie – Foxhunting Traditional

Meanwhile, shaped stocks, which are also called dress stocks or hunting stocks, are more similar to formal ascots, are plain white, and are worn with stock pins. Stock pins, by the way, are horizontal pins, resembling large safety pins of about three inches or so, and are usually gold. They secure the ends of a dress stock together in a similar fashion to how a stick pin is used with a formal ascot.

Stocks are most often worn today as part of British hunting attire, with shaped versions being worn as part of formal fox hunting attire, and folded versions worn with the less formal dress code known as “rat catcher.” Hunters and horsemen often endorse the utility of the stock, saying that when necessary, it can be used to improvise bandages, slings, and other such devices. 

Steinkirk Cravat

Portrait of an Unknown Man in a Steinkirk
Portrait of an Unknown Man wearing a Steinkirk Cravat

One more cravat style to cover here: the Steinkirk cravat, also called a Steenkerque. This is a white stock with long ends which are twisted together and pulled through the wearer’s lapel buttonhole, somewhat casually. This style takes its name from the Battle of Steenkerque, between France and a joint force of English, Scottish, Dutch, and German forces on August 3, 1692.

Legend has it that the French were surprised at their encampment early in the morning by the opposing forces, and thus were only partly dressed at that time. The French would go on to win the battle, though, and the casual style of cravat-wearing would remain popular in the region for another handful of decades. If you tie a black ribbon over the top of a stock, you get a style called a “solitaire,” bringing us into our next neckwear category.

Ribbon and String Ties

Simple String Tie

Two Teddy Boys at a funfair wearing a String Tie - Ken Russell's 'The Last of the Teddy Girls'
Two Teddy Boys at a funfair wearing a String Tie – Ken Russell’s ‘The Last of the Teddy Girls’

First up here is the simple string tie, also called a bootlace tie or a sheriff’s tie predominantly in the UK. This is just as it sounds: a string that’s looped in a bow rather than being traditionally knotted. It was particularly associated with the Teddy Boy Movement in Britain in the 1950s which was itself an outgrowth of Neo-Edwardian and rockabilly fashions, and it’s often misidentified as a bolo tie.

Bolo Tie

A bolo tie also called a bola tie or shoelace tie is a style of neckwear created from a length of cord that’s almost always leather rather than a strip of silk or other fabric and closed with a jewelry-like side clasp. It usually features decorative metal tips, called aglets which is where the “shoelace tie” moniker comes from.

Example of a Bolo Tie
Example of a Bolo Tie

Most sources point to the creator of the bolo tie being a silversmith from Wickenburg, Arizona named Vic Cedarstaff. While out riding one day in the 1940s, Cedarstaff’s hat blew off. He retrieved it, but since he did not want to lose the hat band and buckle again, he took them off the hat and put them around his neck. Cedarstaff later added silver aglets to the ends of the band, named it after the bolas or bolos used by Argentine gauchos, and patented the design in 1959.

The bolo tie was adopted as the official state tie of Arizona in 1971, and later by New Mexico and Texas, as well. It got a boost in the fashion world in the 1980s with rockabilly and new wave musicians and also in Hollywood, but today, it’s most commonly associated with its western wear roots.

Plantation Tie

Mark Twain wearing a plantation tie
American writer Mark Twain wearing a plantation tie

Returning to ribbons, we have the plantation tie, which is also called the planter’s tie or southern colonel tie. This is a loop of dark ribbon that’s tied into a bow, using the same mechanics as a conventional bow tie. And it’s commonly associated with figures like Mark Twain and Colonel Harlan Sanders, the founder of Kentucky Fried Chicken. 

Black Tie Alternatives

Continental Tie

This is a bow tie alternative consisting of a strip of fabric usually black that overlaps under the throat, where it is fastened by a tie tack or snap button. Because the tie crosses over itself, it’s also referred to as a crossover. However, the term continental tie can also be applied to a V-shaped neckband fastened behind the neck rather than in front. This style also has an alternate name, the “bulldogger tie.”

1960s French Continental Tie bow tie tucked under the shirt collar and dinner jacket with black satin faced shawl collar
1960s French Continental Tie tucked under the shirt collar and dinner jacket with black satin faced shawl collar

Both of these continental tie styles were popular in America in the late 1950s and early ‘60s, as part of a broader fashion movement called the Continental Look, wherein the traditional full cuts of English suits gave way to slimmer and more youthful Italian styles. The Continental style overall, was tighter and closer to the torso, with slimmer pants, a more nipped-in waist, and a sleeker shoulder line. It was characterized by such details as narrow, trimmed lapels, sometimes semi-peaked in the Tautz style, and false, detachable cuffs.

Both styles of continental tie were popular with musicians of this time with the crossover seen on figures like Elvis Presley, and the V-shaped style becoming a signature fashion statement of bouzouki player Gianni Stamatiou, also known as Sporo.

Novelty Ties & Other Tie Styles

Leather ties were a bad 1980's trend
Leather ties were a bad 1980’s trend

We’d be remiss not to mention novelty ties of the 20th century in today’s roundup, as well, including such things as Christmas ties, keyboard ties, leather ties, and the infamous fish tie created by Ralph Marlin in the 1980s.

Additionally, we should also mention some 21st-century alternative tie styles, such as bow ties made from materials like wood, metal, cork, leather, or feathers. There are also more historical styles that we didn’t cover here today, for instance, things like the rosette tie among others.

When Can You Wear Alternative Neckwear?

Alternatives We Don’t Really Recommend

To some extent, it depends on the style in question. For example, we wouldn’t really recommend any of the more historical styles, such as the stock with the exception of hunting attire, the Steinkirk, or the solitaire.

Philippe Coypel 1732 painting in a solitaire
Philippe Coypel 1732 painting in a solitaire

Similarly, the string tie and plantation tie are probably going to look more dated and costumey than stylish today, which can also be applied to the novelty tie category more broadly.

Either style of continental tie is probably something we’d advise against as well, simply because we’re big proponents of classic Black Tie, as exemplified by the 1930s in particular. For more information on both classic black tie as well as alternatives like the continental tie, you can consult our comprehensive Black Tie Guide.

Modern, Fashion-Forward Settings

Regarding bow ties made of non-fabric materials, they can certainly work in a more modern, fashion-forward setting. But if you’re going for a look grounded in the principles of the Golden Age of Menswear, as we advocate here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, you’re probably going to find that they’re not going to be versatile or harmonious with the other elements of your wardrobe.

The Golden Age of Menswear
The Golden Age of Menswear

Western-Inspired Outfits

And what of the bolo tie, then? Well, we wouldn’t recommend it for all situations. However, if you do happen to be in the southwestern United States, particularly one of the states that’s officially sanctioned this style, then we think you could experiment with wearing it. It would probably work best though if the rest of your outfit is similarly western-inspired, but not over-the-top or costumey but rather more subtle and traditional.

Conclusion

The world of men’s neckwear is far more vast than the two main pillars of conventional neckties and bow ties. Even so, the various alternative styles we’ve covered today have remained alternative for a reason: which is to say, they’re not nearly as versatile as their more conventional counterparts.

For 99% of sartorial situations then, a well-chosen necktie or bow tie or perhaps an ascot or cravat is going to serve you well. Feel free to experiment with the other alternative styles if you so choose, but be aware that a more standard style is going to be best for tying your looks together.

Which of these alternative styles would you consider wearing? Share with us in the comments!

Outfit Rundown

In the spirit of today’s video, I am wearing a day cravat with my outfit just to add a bit of flair. As you might have guessed, it’s from Fort Belvedere, and it’s in madder silk with red, orange, navy, and light blue paisley. The rest of my outfit is working in a similar red and blue color theme including my wine colored cardigan sweater and my shirt which is a subtle pink and blue checked pattern over a white background.

Preston's casual outfit featuring an ascot from Fort Belvedere
Preston’s casual outfit featuring an ascot from Fort Belvedere
Ascot in Madder Silk with Red, Orange, Navy and Light Blue Paisley

Fort Belvedere

Ascot in Madder Silk with Red, Orange, Navy and Light Blue Paisley

Midnight Blue and Burgundy Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Midnight Blue and Burgundy Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

I’m wearing slim and simple black cufflinks which aren’t meant to be seen so that my sleeves can fit better under the sweater sleeves. My trousers are plain navy blue and my penny loafers are on a dark oxblood color which brings out some of the red tones in the outfit. And my socks, also from Fort Belvedere, tied the outfit together, they’re shadow stripe models in midnight blue and burgundy.

You can find the socks and the ascot I’m wearing in today’s video in the Fort Belvedere shop in addition to a wide array of other menswear accessories including neckties, bow ties, ascots, and much more.

Reader Comments

  1. The plantation tie was also wore by the Maverick brothers on the t.v. western “Maverick”

    1. I recently purchased two handsome ascots from Brooks Brothers, which were on sale for an amazing price that couldn’t be beat! I had to get them and plan to make my next two ascot purchase from Fort Belvedere. I also found the Continental tie quite interesting as a formal wear alternative to a self tie black bow tie. However, as the Continental tie seems such an anachronistic choice, it feels like wearing it would be paradoxically avant-garde ths a bold choice nowaday. As such, I would enjoy wearing it with a dinner jacket (deep burgundy silk and/or black velvet with shawl collar. Great article! keep them coming. Stay well.
      K. Bedell

      1. And now I know where they went. I looked at the online, then later decided to buy them and they were gone. I hope you enjoy them.

      2. Thanks for sharing, Kenneth! We look forward to your purchase from Fort Belvedere :)

  2. Did not forget about your survey. Overall enjoy the Gazette. Just for Shits and Giggles as some people say here in Pgh Pa, Maybe emphasize an article on etiquette. When I was an Ins Agent I worked with our recruiter at Mutual of New York years ago. I mentioned that since we deal in the higher end market, do not hire anyone until you have lunch with them. Make sure they know what fork to use or where to place a napkin. Always wanted to start an Etiquette consulting company, I’m sure in todays environment people are not aware of the basics. One (1) example: when approaching a revolving door with a woman who enters first? If door is already moving the woman is 1st, if door is stopped the man goes 1st in order to get the door moving. I’m sure you knew that but most do not. Enough of me intruding on your time. Stay well, Mark A. Davis

  3. Great article. Any Ideas where I can get a neckerchief ring that they wore in the late 60s?

    Best,
    Josh

    1. Thanks, Josh! You might want to check out online retail stores or your local vintage shops. :)

  4. In the Seventies and Eighties my job occasionally took me to sea with the Royal Navy. I was part of the wardroom. There were always a few officers who wore ascots when going ashore, which didn’t seem at all out of place.

  5. As a regular wearer of several of these “Ties for the Bold,” I probably could write an essay, but I do want to make some comments. I regularly wear ascots of both types, and regularly receive positive comments, and have taught other men how to tie them. Of course, I also find myself teaching people how to tie bow ties as well.

    My experiences with the string tie (or plantation tie, I do not see much difference) goes back to my childhood where they were part of the wardrobe we wore while showing livestock. I still wear them on a regular basis, especially with my more western influenced outfits. Like any other tie, if you wear them with dignity, they can look quite sharp. I prefer them to the bolo for Western outfits.

    I think you missed a step in the evolution of the bolo tie. During the Victorian and Edwardian period, some men in the American West wear a scarf with a ring holding it together, similar to the way the bolo holds together the strings. Josh asks where he might such a ring in his comment. I would recommend he check out a Western shop. I have seen a wide variety, some with a single ring, and some with a double ring with meant for holding each end of the scarf separately similarly to the modern bolo with a separate ring for each end of the string. As the set up is similar to the later bolo tie, I suspect that it is a clear precursor.

    Finally, the stock tie is also regularly worn in the show ring of several equestrian events, not just for fox hunting attire.

  6. Great read however even though I’m at a young age who is extremely old school I wear suits daily and always with a regular neck tie Iprefer solid ties with solid pocket squares and always cuffed Dress Shirts and leather sole shoes only.During the fall and winter It’s a full length wool double breasted overcoats with the overcoat being the same color as my Suit.You go to work to work you should be dressed for work.

  7. Hello. Wonderful article. Congrats!
    Where could I acquire the ascot shown in the summary section of this page.
    Thanks for your attention.
    Cx!

  8. Another well done presentation. In the hits and misses category, I’d like to see the ever-groovy 70’s neckerchief (miss) and the all-purpose and versatile shemagh (hit).

  9. I wear bolo ties frequently (I live in Arizona). I actually disagree pairing it with western wear- it’s cliched and becomes a costume. Instead, I wear it as would any tie with a nice suit. I’ve been know to wear it with a double breasted pinstripe suit and a nice dress shirt. I also recommend wearing it slightl loose, with the top button of the shirt unbottoned. It’s kind of like a western sprezzatura! Don’t wear it too often but always fun to wear to an Arizona wedding!

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