Shell Cordovan Leather, Explained

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Shell Cordovan is a special material when it comes to fine men’s shoemaking, but you may wonder what makes this kind of horse leather so special that it commands upwards of $500 per pair of shoes.

Dark brown cordovan shoes paired with green socks and checked trousers
Here, a pair of dark brown cordovan derby longwings is complemented with light brown shoelaces from Fort Belvedere

From the outside, shell cordovan looks quite similar to any other shoe leather – smooth, lustrous, and richly colored in shades of burgundy, brown, and black – but it has some unique properties that make it ideal for men’s shoes. It’s also a far rarer and more labor-intensive leather than cowhide.

Let’s investigate what shell cordovan is, its history, how it is created, and how to find, buy, and care for shell cordovan once it’s part of your collection.

What is Shell Cordovan?

Shell cordovan is the name for a particular type of leather derived from the hindquarters of horsehide. It’s one of the few types of leather that consumers might know by name.

The Mosque of Cordoba in warm sunlight

Córdoba, Spain

The “shell” refers to the hindquarter part of the hide once it has been split horizontally to remove the grain. The name “cordovan” derives from the Spanish city of Córdoba and means “from Córdoba”; together, the terms refer to this specific type of horse leather.

Illustration of a horsehide showcasing the location of the cordovan butt portions

Bringing up the Rear

Unlike other leather, the shell is a membrane in the middle of two epidermis layers in the rear portion of a horse butt. The hindquarter portion of the hide used for shell cordovan begins at about 24″ from the tail and extends 24-28″ on either side of the horse. The exact size depends on the particular horse.

Characteristics

Shell cordovan is exceptionally durable. The pores are so dense on the hindquarters of a horse that they are not visible to the naked eye. The hide is naturally resistant to water (though not impervious) as well as stretching. Instead of creasing, shell cordovan ripples.

Since creasing can lead to cracks in the leather, the tendency to ripple rather than crease helps to preserve the surface of the leather and the overall lifespan of the shoe. Furthermore, shell cordovan ages very well and develops a particularly beautiful patina over time. A well-cared-for pair of shoes can truly last you a lifetime.

A pair of cordovan leather dress sneakers worn with tan corduroy trousers
Perhaps a pair of cordovan dress sneakers is the way to go in the 21st century?

The leather itself doesn’t accept dye very well, so it’s mostly found in dark shades of brown, black and what is known as “cordovan” color, which is a dark burgundy rose color. It takes approximately one and a half shells to make a pair of shoes.

History of Shell Cordovan

Leather crafting is by no means a new skill to man. But what exactly is the story behind cordovan leather, and how did we get to where we are today?

Cordovan’s History

1
Two medieval Spanish Visigoths riding horses

600 AD

Leather has been produced and used by man since 2200 BC, but the first documented use of horse leather was in 7th century Spain by the Visigoths and eventually by the Moors.

2
An aerial photograph of Cordoba in Spain

1500 – 1600 AD

The city of Cordoba, from which shell cordovan derived its name, was a noted centre for leather tanning. In the 16th and 17th centuries, skilled craftsmen would create preciously decorated horse leather goods such as wall hangings, trunks, shields, and armour.

3
A leather wall hanging full of intricate floral details

Exquisite Leather Crafts

Because of its qualities, beauty, and durability, it found its way to the Spanish Royalty, who facilitated the spread of cordovan leather throughout Europe and the world through marriage with other royal families. Even today, you can find artisans in Cordoba who still maintain the tradition of Cordovan leather, also referred to as Cordoban.

4
An illustration of cordwainers working on leather hides in the 19th Century

1800s

It wasn’t until the 19th century that shell cordovan was connected with the specific type of tanned horsehide that is used today.

In the middle of the century, German and Dutch tanners arrived in the US with their trade for “spiegelwahre”, which translates to “mirror ware”. The name is a reference to the fact that polished cordovan achieves a mirror-like finish. Their profession became known as “Cordwainers”.

5
The handle of a vintage horsehide strop

Tough Stuff

Shell cordovan in the 19th century was a thick, tough leather prized more for its durable nature than for its good looks. It was commonly used for leather razor strops until the safety razor emerged around WWI and the industry had to pivot to a new product.

6
Vintage Wolverine shell cordovan boot ad

1900s

In the early 20th century, American tanners further improved the tanning techniques to make shell cordovan softer and more appropriate for shoes.

In 1910, Wolverine advertised its shell cordovan boots and gloves as being “buckskin-soft.”

Shell Cordovan Today

Today, only a few factories in the world tan shell cordovan. Among them, the most recognized is Horween, which is based in Chicago.

A worker uses a knife to cut the cordovan leather in the Horween tannery

Famous for Cordovan

At Horween, although roughly 80% of their business stems from tanning cowhides, they are probably most famous for their genuine Shell Cordovan leather.

Style-wise, shell cordovan today walks the line between casual and dressy; casual due to its history as a workwear material and, on the opposite side, dressy due to its higher price and rarity. Most brands use shell cordovan for footwear such as tassel loafers, bluchers, wing tips, and a variety of boots.

Why is shell cordovan so expensive?

The high price tag of cordovan comes down to the low supply of hides, the high demand for them, and the long, complicated tanning process.

Cordovan leather is a leather that's derived from the hindquarters of a horsehide

Scarce Materials

Since horses are only raised as part of the food chain in a few places in the world, the supply of horsehides is small and unlikely to grow, contributing directly to the scarcity and high price of this type of leather.

Only a small portion of the horsehide can be used, and it can’t be split into layers like cow leather. Tanning alone takes six months, and a great deal of handwork; very few tanners have the knowledge to tan it.

Tanning process of cordovan leather.
Tanning process of cordovan leather. [Image Credit: Block Club Chicago]

How is Shell Cordovan Made?

Tanning is a process that does two basic things: it stops the natural decay process and develops the desired characteristics of the leather.

The tanning of cordovan is incredibly complex. Six months and more than a hundred processes are required to produce a useable hide, and therefore, very few tanneries remain in the world still produce this kind of leather.

Cordovan Production

1
Salted Horsehides

It starts out with salted horse hides. They are sourced from France, despite the common belief that Horween leather is an entirely American product. For more on the subject, read our article about Made in the USA.

2
Horsehides

The horsehides arrive on pallets and are then cut down by hand. Only the butt portion of the hide is tanned as shell cordovan.

3
Horween tanning pits

In order to remove the hair, they undergo some chemical treatments described in the tanning process; they are then tanned in pits using Horween’s proprietary tanning solution which consists of chestnut and quebracho tree bark as well as resins.

4
Horse Butts in the Tanning Solution

The horsehides are put into frames that agitate constantly. This ensures that the tannins don’t settle and the hides are evenly tanned.

After thirty days, the horsehides are taken out of the solution and then shaved to expose the shell. Subsequently, it is put into another pit with a stronger solution and tanned for another 30 days.

The tanning stages cannot be rushed, or the outside skin fibers would only be penetrated by the tannins, while the inside would still be raw.

Finished shell cordovan in a range of colors
Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production.

Once the tanning process is complete, the hides still require another 4 months of work before they become finished leather. The hides are polished and colored by hand, and most importantly, they have to rest.

a table with many cordovan hides in production at the Horween tannery

Resting Leather

Horween sometimes has to turn customers down due to lack of supply. When these customers then see the piles of shell cordovan in the factory, they don’t always understand that the shells have to rest.

How to Buy Shell Cordovan

The first step is to decide if shell cordovan is the right material for you to buy because it is a significant investment! We advise that you check it out yourself – chances are you will quickly find out if you love or hate it.

A cordovan leather loafer with significant rippling

Unique Qualities

You may not be a huge fan of shell cordovan shoes because they wrinkle in a certain way and are harder and less breathable. However, there are quite a few people who swear by it. 

New shoes will feel stiff, but take a trip to the vintage store and look for the trademark ripples and color of cordovan to try out what a pair of broken-in cordovan feels like for yourself.

Shell cordovan is a great addition to your shoe closet if you appreciate the unique look, feel, and durability of the leather. It is especially great for enthusiasts that want a hard-wearing, casual-to-informal shoe that they plan to care for and re-sole for many years to come.

A range of cordovan colors from light tan to black

Colors of Cordovan

You’ll mostly find shell cordovan in shades of brown and black, and of course “cordovan” burgundy, sometimes referred to as ‘Color 8’. However, this classification can be misleading because cordovan leather has its very own way of achieving a certain kind of patina through exposure to sunlight

Over time, “cordovan” ages from a burgundy-tinged brown color to reveal a bit more of the red tone with each passing year. Other shell cordovan colors will also age and darken, except for black.

Shell Cordovan Shoemakers

Considering the rarity of shell cordovan, it’s not always available, and well-marketed shoe releases often sell out quickly. Expect to find classic, informal shoes such as tassel and penny loafers and work-boot-inspired styles of all kinds.

BrandLocation
AldenUSA
Allen EdmondsUSA
RancourtUSA
VibergCanada
CarminaSpain
MeerminSpain
Crockett & JonesUK
HerringUK

It’s not an ideal material for elegant, sophisticated looks, but for elevated casual and everyday looks, cordovan is an excellent choice. Considering the cost of the leather itself, makers of cordovan shoes tend not to cut corners when it comes to construction.

Given the sturdiness of shell cordovan, you can buy either new or vintage with confidence. Just note the return policy of the retailer, in case you don’t happen to like the feel of the shoe.

How to Clean and Polish Cordovan

Cordovan is different than other leathers, and as such, it will require a different type of care. Some suggest using an emulsion shoe polish and rubbing it into the leather in concentric circles with either a brush or a piece of cloth. Some also claim that a shoe bone should be used. Unlike most shoe horns, this bone is actually a hind (leg) bone of a deer.

A pair of cordovan leather loafers that need  clean
These cordovan loafers are in need of some attention!
Deer polishing bone is another specific product that works great for cordovan care.
Deer polishing bone is another specific product that works great for cordovan care. [Image Credit: StraightsEstablishment.com]
A deer polishing bone from Carmina

Deer Bone

The deer bone is used for cordovan because it allegedly contains the right amount of oil to ensure the surface is not damaged without oversaturating it. We’ve experienced a similar outcome with or without a shoe bone – there are many ways to polish shoes, and everybody has a little secret!

With regards to shoe polish, Saphir now has a cordovan shoe polish in their portfolio, but a regular emulsion cream (not turpentine wax) paste will do just fine as well. Since Cordovan is a very rough leather, you shouldn’t need to worry about it too much. If you go to the lengths of using emulsion shoe polish and a brush, you are ahead of most people out there!

FAQ

What is cordovan leather?

Cordovan leather is the hind quarter portion of a horsehide. Specifically, it is the small rear section, and throughout the manufacturing process, they are referred to as “cordovan butts”.

What is shell cordovan leather?

Shell cordovan is still the same leather, but the “shell” portion of the name refers to the fact that cordovan is actually a membrane shell, instead of a skin (like traditional calf leather).

What color is cordovan leather?

While cordovan can be dyed in a number of colors, the most well recognized is a deep burgundy brown color that ages into a rosy hue over time. The color is achieved through an intensive dyeing process involving lots of natural vegetable tannins.

Why is cordovan so expensive?

There are a few reasons, such as raw material scarcity and the unique skills required to manufacture cordovan. But its lengthy production is perhaps one of the biggest contributing factors, as cordovan manufacturers can only make a small amount each year, thus driving a higher price tag.

When can I wear cordovan shoes?

As cordovan is a tough leather, it doesn’t lend itself to elegant formal footwear. Its rugged nature does make it an excellent contender for more casual styles, such as boots and loafers. Therefore, choose a dressed-down look to enjoy your cordovan footwear.

Is cordovan waterproof?

No leather is truly waterproof, and any that claim to be are treated with waterproofing chemicals. Cordovan does possess a much higher resistance to water than other leather types, which makes it a popular choice for wet weather footwear.

Can cordovan be made into other items?

Just like any other leathers, cordovan can be crafted into a wide variety of leather goods. The limit is its size, which is much smaller than a typical calf hide. Therefore, cordovan is better served as small leather goods or casual footwear items that require several small cordovan parts.

Is cordovan difficult to break in?

Honestly, it depends on the individual cordovan product! Although, typically speaking, brand new cordovan is more difficult to break in than other footwear leathers. If you suffer with break-in periods, take a look at vintage cordovan products as a way to enjoy cordovan leather without a potentially painful first few wears!

Reader Comments

  1. It may be interesting to hear for the fans of cordovan leather that camel leather is quite similar in look and feel.
    If you ever come to be in India, you should use the oppoturnitiy and get yourself something of this material, that can be bought for a song there. I for my part have a pair of hand made slippers of that material.

    1. Thanks for mentioning camel leather. I have seen it once but it did not strike me as being similar to Cordovan at the time. So, I will make sure to check more thoroughly next time.

  2. Camel leather may be thinner, but it’s clean surface and affinity to wrinkles are quite obvious similarities. At least to me this is quite a reason to compare these leathers to each other, but I may be wrong.

  3. Another excellent article Sven. I have cordovan loafers and blutchers from Brooks Bros and Alden. Once you’ve worn them in, they fit like a bespoke shoe and seem to “learn” to cuddle your foot over time. And they shine well with the right polish and method. I bought my cordovans in the States where they are pricey but significantly cheaper than in the UK. I highly recommend them.
    All the very best for the festive season and 2019.
    Ian from Downunder.

  4. Once again a great article !
    I ve been, for some time now, considering trying shell cordovan by ordering a custom made pair of black chelsea boots. I found no shoe makers with such a model and Centenario made a budget estimate for such a customized design of about 1000 euros. I thought about chelsea boots because this large undecorated suface would compliment the long term patina of the material. Any thoughts to help me decide wether to go forward with the order ? Does it seem interesting and worth it or is there a reason why chelsea boots are not made in cordovan and I should try another style of shoes in shell cordovan ?
    Best regards from Portugal !

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