Cheap vs. Expensive Jeans: Key Denim Differences

When it comes to jeans, it seems like the gulf in prices could not be greater. How can one pair of jeans cost $12 and another pair cost $1,200? Well, finding out why is exactly what we’ll be doing today. 

Denim Definitions (& Price Parameters)

Jeans, a hard-wearing, hard-working fabric, rose to prominence on farms and ranges and now also grace high-fashion runways. As such, choices are out in the market for different budgets!

We understand that “cheap” and “expensive” are relative terms. What’s cheap for a dedicated denim head who invests in quality could be considered expensive for someone else. A central feature in our Is It Worth It? series is determining whether iconic articles are worth their high prices.

A pair of designer jeans might cost hundreds of dollars, but the actual manufacturer of the jeans could be comparable to a pair that cost dozens of dollars. Consider also that “cheap” and “expensive” include nuances of quality.

A pair of well-made jeans might have a steep upfront cost, but if they last for decades and return an excellent cost per wear ratio. their expense is justified. Conversely, if you buy low-quality jeans at a very low price but have to replace those genes every few months, you might end up wasting a lot of time and resources.

Finally, the average price of jeans can vary greatly depending on where you live in the world – being generally cheaper in North America and more expensive elsewhere.

Today, we’re defining jeans that retail at $30 or less as cheap and $200 or more as expensive. Again, we recognize that those figures might not exactly reflect your individual finances and priorities. But, we hope that it’s a good fit for today’s discussion.

Comparing Fabric

When comparing menswear articles, it helps to start with the basics, such as looking at the fabric.

By definition, jeans are made from denim – a fabric made from sturdy cotton that is twill woven with a distinctive diagonal pattern from the twill weave. Denim has been around since the 17th century, but jeans, as we know them today really, came to prominence in the second half of the 19th century – as covered in our assessment of one of the most famous makers of modern jeans, Levi Strauss & Co.

As a workman’s fabric, denim was valued for its durability and strength. But, as jeans have increasingly become a fashion icon – even getting paired with sport coats – additional qualities like softness, unique texture, and drape have become more important.

For cheaper jeans, manufacturers employ low-quality cotton and often cut it with synthetic fabrics. Not only are synthetics cheaper than 100% cotton, they help ameliorate some of the problems produced by low-quality cotton-like, rougher texture, reduced elasticity, and stiffness.

Of course, synthetics bring their own host of problems like appearing too shiny, stretching out, and reducing breathability. Cheaper jeans fabrics are also more likely to be cheaply dyed with synthetic dyes that hold color unevenly, fade quickly, or have a slick and somewhat sticky finish. It sounds like cheap fabrics for jeans are both cheap and of rather poor value.

But, it is necessary for high-volume, mass-scale manufacturers to opt for cheap fabrics. Expensive raw materials cut into profit margins. Cotton isn’t necessarily a luxury fabric but, as we covered in our guide, it comes in a variety of quality levels, and improved quality increases prices.

Among expensive jeans, the full potential of high-quality cotton jeans becomes apparent. Expensive jeans are often made from cotton that is softer and more pliable or will become so after several wears after you break them in. They also tend to have a more natural, more flattering drape, and some examples can even partially mold to your body shape. Expensive denim is also recognizable by its beautiful hues as quality dyeing processes allow for the transfer of rich, lustrous, and vibrant color.

Although, quality dyes are not without some issues. Most famously, many indigo dyes can transfer when wet. This inconvenience, however, is a byproduct of the very qualities that make this kind of dye superlative – like strong color and pigment resilience.

You can also find specialty jeans fabrics. Raw denim refers to denim that hasn’t been treated or washed after dying. It has dynamic and vigorous color and a stiff, crinkly hand. Raw denim molds, softens, and elegantly fades as you wear it and is considered by many the epitome of jeans fabric.

Jeans fabric can also be finished in unique ways like the much-vaunted selvage denim. “Selvage” refers to fabrics that are self-edged or self-finished,  and selvedged jeans are immediately recognizable by their interior finished edge. Selvedged denim can only be made on special looms, and, in most cases, anyone going through the trouble of making selvaged denim will not skimp elsewhere.

Expensive jeans are made from expensive fabrics because high-quality fabrics demand a high price. That quality can also require special care and treatment, bringing up our next section. 

Comparing Care

It’s no surprise that many menswear items require specialized care and cleaning routines. But, some people are surprised to hear that they might need to handle their jeans with kid gloves. But how you care for your jeans can have a massive impact on their quality, which is exacerbated by the initial price of the jeans.

Cheap jeans are usually sold with the understanding that consumers want minimal muss and fuss. These jeans are listed as machine-washable, often even at high temperatures, to remove dirt and grime. However, because of the cheap quality of the jeans fabric, cheap jeans can fade in the wash. They can collapse and become baggy.

Cheap jean fabrics are usually finished to give them a more pleasing drape and hold, but even one washing can strip those finishing agents, leaving the jeans puddling and lank. Cheap jeans are more likely to shrink excessively or develop a slick, unfinished texture, and cheap jeans can even come loose or tear along the seams, especially when knocked around in a dryer.

Things get even more complicated with expensive jeans. Remember that raw denim we mentioned? Some purists insist that it should never be washed – only meticulously spot cleaned. Avoiding washing is the only way to keep raw denim rich and vibrant, as it minimizes general fading that will make your jeans appear washed out. It will also create visual interest and contrast between areas of natural fading like stress points at the knees and the body of the jeans, which will retain their lustrous original hue.

We recognize, however, that, for many people, this is not practical, in which case, you can follow the precise care instructions outlined in our washing guide.

Expensive jeans can also require a longer breaking-in period, requiring multiple wears before becoming soft and pliable. Although like a good pair of shoes, breaking in jeans like these will produce a superior fit, comfort, and feel.

These proliferations of rules regarding expensive denim can be confusing. But, the fact of the matter is such steps are necessary to maintain the quality that makes denim jeans such a valued item. And while expensive jeans can be difficult to care for, that investment of care will allow you to enjoy the superlative qualities of your jeans for much longer.

Comparing Construction & Features

Along with fabric, the cost of manufacturing jeans represents one of the biggest capital investments, and construction methods can vary greatly between cheap and expensive jeans. 

Cheap jeans are almost entirely produced in developing nations. Reduced labor costs make cheap prices feasible. Patterns for these jeans are often flat and poorly designed, meaning that, when actually worn, jeans can sit uncomfortably, bunch, puddle, and generally look unappealing and feel uncomfortable because they weren’t patterned and sewn with good fit in mind.

Cheap jeans will usually have low-quality stitching with low stitch densities and cheap thread that easily breaks and looks ragged. It can sometimes compromise the seams of the jeans themselves. In addition to skimping on fabric and labor, cheap jean manufacturers will also cut corners on other materials like metal rivets.

Rivets were originally designed to reinforce stress points on jeans, increasing their longevity. On cheap jeans, these rivets are mostly cosmetic, serving no structural purpose, often appearing dull, tarnished, and cheap-looking.

Some cheaply-applied rivets can even stain and damage the fabric around them., ironically doing the exact opposite of their original intended purpose. And don’t get us started on cheap zippers that come off the track, break off, or freeze up!

Image Credit: India Mart

Construction also plays a major role in functional and aesthetic features. For jeans, one of the most important features is pockets. On cheap jeans, there will usually be a minimum of three to four pockets, usually two in the front and one or two in the back.

For most of us, that’s probably enough. But, because of poor design execution, many of these pockets don’t actually work because they’ve been improperly sewn and applied. Pockets that are too small or tight to hold items like a wallet, your keys, or your phone – or that do so but create an unsightly bulge or outline. Might as well not be there at all.

Cheap jeans usually have poorly thought-out production because design and labor represent a major sink for resources, and, to maintain a lower price point, construction has to be bare bones. 

On expensive jeans, greater attention will be paid to the overall design. Patterns will be cut to ensure a comfortable, sculpted, and movable fit, and jeans will be assembled with a greater emphasis on quality control.

We’re not saying that expensive denim is always handmade by artisanal craftsmen. But, in general, at expensive prices, you can expect finer detailing like organic, elastic pattern assembly, excellent stitching, available in interesting complementary colors for added visual interest, and features that work; rivets will actually function or, at the very least, be more visually pleasing, zippers will slide without issue, and pockets, often available in more arrangements, will hold your items securely without appearing bulky. You can even put a pocket watch in that little pocket.

Comparing Fit

In addition to how construction affects how the jeans lay on your body, jeans are also cut to fit certain styles. To ensure general appeal, cheaper jeans are usually only available in mid or low-rise. The popular perception is that these rises are more comfortable and appealing. Even though, when properly sized and fitted, high-waisted jeans, like higher-waisted trousers in general, are ideal for most men.

When dealing with razor-thin margins, we suspect that the manufacturers of cheap jeans also prefer lower-rise jeans because they are easier to make and require less material. Lower costs also make cheaper jeans more responsive to trends.

When jeans can be pumped out inexpensively and easily, they’re better able to keep up with whatever the latest fad is. However, to avoid retooling factories, this often means that cheaper jeans can only be found in trendy cuts, making it more difficult to find cuts that actually work with your body.

Cheap jeans favor unflattering or trendy cuts because they are easier to make and they’re also easier to sell. And when jeans have to appeal to the mass market, cheap jean manufacturers will ignore timeless, classic cuts, and go all in on whatever will sell most quickly.

Expensive jeans can be made available in a much wider range of cuts because designers have a greater emphasis on what actually works and is comfortable, rather than what can be sold cheaply and quickly. You’re much more likely to find classic cuts available at expensive jean retailers.

Because of higher upfront costs, most expensive jeans are designed to follow more middle-of-the-road, timeless styles, so they can be sold at any time, regardless of trends. Of course, a big exception to this rule will be designer jeans.

Conclusion

Having outlined the main differences between cheap and expensive jeans, we can make some general conclusions. Cheap jeans tend to produce an inferior wearing experience. Low-quality fabric construction is uncomfortable and unappealing, and cheap jeans tend to be perhaps a little too rough – even for those famously rough-wearing garments.

Expensive jeans, on the other hand, offer a unique and exceptional wearing experience that really highlights the sartorial potential of jeans, but at an increased cost of not only money, but also time and attention for adequate care and maintenance.

Ultimately, the right jeans for you will depend on why you want the jeans.

If you’re primarily interested in jeans as a hard-wearing, reliable trouser for doing chores and work around the house, your main concerns will likely be comfort and durability, and moderately priced or even cheap jeans could be the answer to your needs.

If you want your jeans to be a regular feature in your wardrobe, especially when styled as a centerpiece and a classic ensemble, the rich colors and unique textures of expensive jeans might be worth the extra effort to care for them.

Ultimately, good denim is whatever denim is good for you and is diametric between cheap and expensive jeans. We left a sizable mid-range of between $30 and $200, which might be a sweet spot for you as well.

What do you think? Let us know in the comments if you regularly shell out for expensive jeans or if you think spending more than $30 on jeans is crazy!

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a tan Ralph Lauren polo with a pair of dark wash denim, brown chukka boots, and some brown shadow stripe socks from Fort Belvedere. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop for socks like these.