Style is something often associated with clothing, though it is so much more than that: manners, tone, mindset and the way you live your life are all a defining parts of your (life)style. As such, I would like to introduce to one of the most stylish individuals I know: Herbert Stricker, whom is probably better known under his alter ego Grimod – a reference to Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de La Reynière.
His Style
Most people will know Herbert for his clothing style and in the past, we have already shown some of his outfits. Being almost 7 feet tall, he was forced wear custom clothing from a very early age, and by the time I met him, he had already worked with nearly 15 bespoke tailors. His deep knowledge of tailoring, his affinity to combining patterns and colors, as well as his understanding of the perfect fit really helped me raise my level of clothing style. However, that was just the tip of the iceberg, because he is, furthermore, an expert in all matters concerning perfume and scents in addition to possessing expert knowledge of wine, food (cooking and fine dining ), cigars, and champagne, among others. When he wants to go on a picnic, he can always use his vintage Rolls Royce. He really lives a stylish life across many facets, rather than just focusing on a small portion of it.
Obviously, not everybody is fortunate enough to live the life he does, but it is all about mastering things rather than spending a lot of money. In fact, style does not require much money, you can find quality clothes in vintage stores, focus on craft beers rather than champagne and home-cooked meals even on a very tight budget. In fact, a home-cooked soup with your own stock on a simple table with (home brewed) beer, gentle background music, and interesting people can be so much more stylish than a gala dinner and champagne with caviar and people always trying to adjust there pocket squares and tie knots talking about their net worth, cars and vacations.
Style & the Internet
In my opinion, the internet has helped tremendously to connect stylish individuals from around the world. Hence, you may not be surprised to learn that I met Herbert through a clothing forum. After we exchanged a few messages, we decided to meet in person because real world encounters allow for real discussions, especially when it comes to things like clothes in which pictures can be very deceptive. Over the years, I have met many other people from such forums, but rarely were they as stylish as Grimod. In fact, I was often disappointed when I met the alter egos in person. Not only did their clothes style lack the refinement and standards they had set with their posts but they were often self-absorbed and sometimes insecure rather than stylish. Herbert once commented on this kind of situation with the words: ” Most people online want to talk about style all day long, but they don’t live it”. All the more reason for you not to obsess about certain details but to focus on your overall look and clothes before you leave your home, so you can focus on the people and enjoy life when you are out.
Grimod’s Clothes
Now that we talked about style, let’s take a closer look at Herbert Stricker’s clothes and how they relate to his style. Most people are, in some way or another, affected by certain trends. In terms of men’s clothing, this might mean slim lapels and trousers, a high gorge, the way the front quarters are cut or the amount of drape. Grimod’s wardrobe is not free of such influences, but overall, he has developed his clothing style with regard to many details.
In this picture, we see him in a grey, quadruple windowpane three piece suit. Take a look at the lapels and trousers and you will note that he rarely changes these elements considerably, because he has found what works best for him. As you view the following photos, notice how Herbert does not appear to be overly tall; his nicely proportioned clothes fit him beautifully.
This is a classic pinstripe suit ensemble with a 3-roll-2 style. Note the high gorge, large collar and the long buttonhole. Herbert is a very tall man and hence he needs taller features to look proportional The shirt collar is large and spread, and the lapels need to be a bit wider to achieve the same look on a suit of a smaller size.
Beautiful Ulster overcoat with grey hat, windowpane suit and brown gloves and madder scarf. Note the size of the cuffs and flaps for a person of his build, it is important for them to be bigger than normal. At the same time, if you are short, you want them to be slightly smaller to look overall proportional.
Herbert Stricker in a genuine Casentino overcoat.
Unusual sportscoat with double chest pockets, open quarters tailored from the Stilmagazin Breanish Tweed. I like the combination of corduroy pants and fair-isle sweater vest.
Cuffs on jackets are usually only found on bespoke jackets or creations from the 1960’s and 1970’s, which is too bad because I think it looks great.
Even when it is hot, Herbert always wears a jacket when in town. Here a combination of red trousers with navy blazer and striped shirt with pink pocket square.
Here Grimod combines the same corduroy trousers with a tattersall vest and a plaid jacket, which is part of a three piece suit. On the one hand, you need enough contrast between trousers, vest and coat to work, on the other the size of the patterns must be different – here small tattersall, big plaid very fine striped shirt, an solid trousers.
Blue herringbone tweed with contrasting red vest, club tie and stripes shirt. Again, note the size difference in the patterns and how they work together.
Stunning combination of tattersall shirt, madder tie, brown herringbone coat, cardigan and red pocket square.
Outstanding vintage cloth with a checked shirt and a beautiful pocket square. The pattern of the tie could have maybe been a little smaller but still a great look.
Quite a few colors and textures were incorporated in this gun club inspired outfit. It’s good the pocket square is solid otherwise it would be to busy.
Another great ensemble. Look at the button down collar and how long it is – again tall people need taller features.
Interesting combination of a rope striped suit with a cardigan, textured tie and winchester shirt. Obviously, Grimod intentionally mixed the formal suit, shirt and pocket square with the informal cardigan and tie but the ensemble works due to the simplicity of colors used in the outfit.
Unusual cloth, that requires quieter accessories. Note how the purple edges of the pocket square harmonizes with the windowpane of the suit.
Scotch Grain leather & tweed leather boot combination.
Beautiful antique patina and rare carpincho leather shoes – all bespoke of course.
Great selection of lined and unlined gloves in various colors to complement every outfit.
Of course, Grimod can’t just rely on one umbrella – whether it is Francesco Maglia or Talarico, Herbert Stricker has them all.
Wingtip oxford shoes in chocolate brown burnished calf but note the seam with of the trouser leg and the size of the cuff – tall people need big features.
Once you have to go bespoke because your feet are so larger, you might as well opt for unusual designs.
Last but not least, Grimod summering in style. What do you think of his style? And who or what inspired your style?
Salutations my fellow swells! i thoroughly enjoyed the style of said gent in above photos. A key element of a dandy is that of not having fear of color and pattern mixing as he so elgantly displayed. A word or two above his choice of fabric was quite elaborate as well. Unique and discreet. I would have to grad his stlye four E’s, (excellent execution of elegant ensembles)
Thank you for the 4E’s. Another reader came up with 3D’s, now we need 2 C’s lol.
A very tasteful gent–elegant post, Mr Schneider!
Thank you!
Merci
As a child I watched English and American films of the 20s and onward. Its how i learnt about fashion, interiors and architecture. Mr Stricker pesonifies the gentlemanly flair for detail I idolised as a youngster. I first noticed him in one of your posts, (unaware of his identity), because of the leanness of his trousers, deep cuff and no break on the shoe. Having read your article i am taken with his talent for exuberant creativity as an inherently masculine thing. In particular the vinage cloth suit, colour and pattern match, bold tweed suit and chalk stripe with cardigan. All great examples of unbridled theatre and manly restaint. The tweed boots produced a torrent of hyperbole that I have deleted. Inspiring and affirming.
Dear Mr. Alexander, thank you for your thoughtful comment. The boot was a a bit of a whim that was produced of a leftover piece of fabric. I think using contrasting vests and cardigans are one of the easiest ways to give your entire wardrobe a different look.
What a great post!
I met Herbert 2 years ago. He’s such a great person and puts textures, fabrics and patterns together in a way, that he is always an inspiration.
I perfectly agree with mr.leonard roger gresham jr comments, although the few pictures of the shoes are showing lasts “slightly off the line” . But that’s my opinion..
Alessandro, these are all bespoke shoes and considering the wearer has unusual feet – size 50 and shaped in a certain way – I think they look remarkable. This is a tall men’s shoe!
He a very elegant dresser, I love his color combinations,the fit is remarkable. I will be looking at this more to get ideas for myself.
Thanks for your comment.
Greetings once Mr. Schneider,
another very fine and interesting article Mr. Herbert Stricker (aka Grimod) is a man I would adorn as a 3D gentlemen (Debonair Distinguished Defined) clearly his style is all encompassing from the top of his head right down to the bottom of his feet even knowledge of home made brewed beer and home cooked meals all display a true sense of style a true sense of one’s self!
Park Jacobs Weatherby
p.s. love the manual typewriter WOW!
did you come up with 3D?
Mr. Stricker has an excellent taste. I admit his orange overcoat is a little flashy, but the rest is just marvellous. I like his vintage cloth suit best.
The fact that he does not appear overly tall is indeed the most amazing aspect of his clothing.
Thanks a lot for another very insightful article.
The Casentino is an original with a green lining and fur collar. Any other color would not have been authentic.
Mr.Schneider,
Very inspiring post.An elegant gentleman indeed.
murtadza
Very true … Style is an all encompassing mindset and the life thus followed. Clothes are the persistent visual reminder and expression. It’s hard to differ with Mr. Stricker’s expression.
hard to differ.. :)
:-)
Wonderful! Mr. Stricker is indeed a man of style. The vivid description of his style and way of life reminds me of my great grandfather. Mr. Stricker’s wardrobe is very interesting, with clothes tailored from a variety of classic materials and patterns. I liked the way he combined brown wingtip brogues with his houndstooth suit. It is something that I would have never thought of, since the pattern contains an element of black. Quite innovative!
I have to disagree with most of the sartorial sensibilities of Mr. Stricker. To my eye, the juxtaposition of fabric/texture/color is jarring, discordant and clownish, at best. I find the visual competition for attention very off-putting. I prefer the colors and textures to be complimentary and contrasting instead of competitive and clownish. What ever happened to the time honored adage of stripes and plaids don’t go together? Prefixing you wardrobe with bespoke doesn’t relieve anyone of the obligation to taste. Many of his base colors and textures are exquisite but look at “Vintage cloth suit”. This is too busy in both color and pattern. This suggests he couldn’t make up his sartorial mind. I find it embarrassingly garish.
Very impressive combinations. But let’s also be honest: whatever this gentleman wears will look great because of his own looks. I wish I could combine my suits with such a lavish haircut. Nevertheless: thank you for the impeccable examples.
I found the article most interesting and inspiring. It would be nice for someone to publish a comprehensive book on how to live with such style, sartorially and as one’s adopted lifestyle. Would make a most interesting read! Thank you for the wonderful article.
Might I ask if that last photo is Mr. Stricker on the beach of Positano?
I’m having second thoughts about the whole fur thing on his coat. Everything else looks really good.
The fur is part of the original garment. Skipping it would mean to mess up a classic overcoat, which is why you will rarely see them without one.
Ah, a Casentino coat. I want one so badly. However, the climate here is so mild than any overcoat at all is of dubious use. But someday I will get one for visiting relatives in cooler climes . . . someday.
What a wonderful article about a very stylish gentleman. To own ones style is truly remarkable. I am now inspired to update my own look.
Thank you.
Beautiful navy ulster jacket.
Seems like a very nice man.
However, I don’t believe this kind of cross-dressing into the past is “elegant”. It seems far too costumey and desperately conservative. All those drab green tweeds are not flattering and I think it’s inappropriate to dress like a Tory MP in the countryside…when perhaps you are in Stockholm or New York in 2013.
Thanks for your comment Francisco. What do you think would be appropriate for Stockholm or NYC 2013?