How to Wear Polka Dots in Menswear

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There are many patterns in classic menswear – glen check, houndstooth, windowpanes, stripes, paisleys, and polka dots. Polka dots might not be as common today as they were in the past, but they are a versatile and visually interesting pattern with a pedigree in classic menswear that can complement casual and formal outfits alike.

The polka dot pattern can assume many forms and be employed in different ways throughout classic menswear, and you’ll learn everything you need to know about polka dots today.

Defining Polka Dots

In simplest terms, polka dots are any array of circles. They’re often, but not always, of the same size, and they can be arranged in a regular or irregular pattern. Many dot patterns in menswear can be considered subtypes of polka dots like pin dots, micro dots, and macro dots.

Raphael displays two dotted bow ties, one with small white dots on a yellow ground and the other with larger blue dots on a golden ground
Raphael displays two dotted bow ties, one with small white dots on a yellow ground and the other with larger blue dots on a golden ground

In order to qualify as a polka dot, though, the dots must be intentional. In other words, the unique dotted effect provided by blending two different tones of yarns.

Patterns like these can, of course, be styled similarly to polka dots in your outfits. Purists will sometimes go one step further and argue that polka dots can only be of one specific size. But, considering how closely this pattern is associated with whimsy and fun, it feels a little wrong to be such a stickler when it comes to polka dots. So, we prefer embracing the broader definition that includes most dot patterns.

History of Polka Dots

Dotted patterns were actually fairly uncommon for most of menswear history, partly because sewing dots was a time and labor-intensive process and also because spots were associated with skin conditions and diseases like leprosy or the bubonic plague. Reasonably then, people of this time probably didn’t want to associate these kinds of things with their clothes.

By the 18th century, though, innovations in textile manufacturing saw polka dots rise to prominence. In fact, some sources identify noted fashion icon and proto-influencer Beau Brummell, as one of the earliest adopters of polka dots in menswear.

Beau Brummell: The First Menswear Influencer?

In Brummell’s time, though, the name “polka dots” hadn’t yet been adopted. The pattern was simply referred to as “dotted” until the 19th century; at which time the name “polka dots” was chosen to capitalize on the popularity of the polka dance craze that was sweeping Europe and North America at the time.

Polka originated as a Czech folk dance, whose bouncy steps and sprightly tunes were integrated into European social dance. Hoping to capitalize on the popularity of the dance then, tailors began referring to dotted patterns as “polka dots.”

Tailors began referring to dotted patterns as polka dots hoping to capitalize on the popularity of the polka
Tailors began referring to dotted patterns as polka dots hoping to capitalize on the popularity of the polka [Image Credit: Suzy Quilts]

It’s possible this referenced the roundness of the dots themselves as well as the circular steps in many variations of the polka; the circular rotations of the couples and the larger circles that they form as the Stanford Viennese Ball opening committee dances the Auf der Jagd polka.

While the polka itself fell out of popularity by the late 19th century, polka dots hung on as a popular choice for menswear accessories well into the 20th century. For the most part, they appeared on smaller items like ties, scarves, pocket squares, and socks. Sir Winston Churchill was famous for his polka dot tie from Turnbull & Asser, and perhaps he inherited his love of the pattern from his father, Lord Randolph Churchill.

And while today, we often associate polka dots more with clowns, children, or as more of a feminine pattern, it was historically worn very often by men. Here, a polka dot bow tie is worn by Connie Billop, who plays a bank employee in “Hot Saturday” from 1932 and Giorgio Albertazzi wears a polka dot necktie as part of a Black Tie optional ensemble in “L’année dernière à Marienbad” in 1961.

During the latter half of the 20th century, as menswear, on the whole, became more casual, polka dots were employed under bolder circumstances. As an example, counterculture icon Bob Dylan was seen wearing a polka dot shirt.

Polka dots nowadays are often seen on more informal menswear pieces.
Polka dots nowadays are often seen on more informal menswear pieces. [Image Credit: (L) Walmart, (R) Walmart]

Today, polka dots are often seen on more informal menswear articles like sports shirts or casual trousers. You’ll also see them on more private garments like pajamas, and they’ll pop up in other settings for outfits that are intended to be more dramatic or eye-catching. Devotees of classic style have never forsaken polka dots, and they’re just as common today as they were during the Golden Age of Menswear in some circles.

Considerations in Choosing Polka Dots

1. Size of Dots

In general, the smaller the dot pattern is, the more formal it’s going to be. Smaller dots can be quite subtle, almost resolving to a solid when viewed from a distance. At the other end of the spectrum, you’ll find macro or large dots, which are much more casual and fun and, in the middle, you’ll have average-sized dots, which we admit is something of a relative term.

But, as a general rule, if the dots are small enough to blend together as part of a repeating visual pattern, you can consider them average-sized or smaller. Meanwhile, if the dots are large enough that they become the center of attention, then you’re definitely dealing with large dots.

Polka dot patterns can also feature a variety of sizes, which tends to be more casual. Keep dot size in mind when you’re assembling your outfits then because, at least when it comes to formality, polka dot size does matter.

2. Dot Density

Our next consideration is one that’s closely related to size, dot density, which refers to how closely the dots are spaced or how much space exists between them. Usually, the higher the density, the smaller the dots are going to be. Although, sometimes, extra space can be left in between smaller dots as an aesthetic choice.

The higher the density, the smaller the dots are going to be.
The higher the density, the smaller the dots are going to be.
Wool Challis Tie in Burgundy with Yellow Polka Dots - Fort Belvedere.

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Burgundy with Yellow Polka Dots – Fort Belvedere

Usually, then, menswear articles with greater dot density are going to be more formal because the dots, in turn, are smaller.

3. Dot Pattern

In classic menswear, polka dots are usually arranged in a regular pattern like straight, diagonal, half-dropped, or offset. However, scattered polka dot patterns also do appear from time to time.

The more regular and symmetrical a pattern is, the more formal it's going to be.
The more regular and symmetrical a pattern is, the more formal it’s going to be.

As a general rule, the more regular and symmetrical a pattern is, the more formal it’s going to be.

4. Dot Color

Finally, let’s talk about dot color. White dots are by far the most commonly seen in menswear, and they can be paired with basically any other color. This is likely because it will allow for effortless pairing between your polka-dotted accessories and a white dress shirt, which is, of course, most commonly worn by many men.

Silk Tie in Jacquard Beige with Large White Polka Dots - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Silk Tie in Jacquard Beige with Large White Polka Dots – Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Orange with Green Polka Dots Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Orange with Green Polka Dots Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Yellow with Red Polka Dots - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Yellow with Red Polka Dots – Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Burgundy with Yellow Polka Dots - Fort Belvedere.

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Burgundy with Yellow Polka Dots – Fort Belvedere

In general, colors with some contrast are going to work best for polka dot patterns, and you are not going to see things like white and gray, for example, very often because the dots won’t stand out very well. And for colored polka dots, contrasting and complementary colors are often going to be employed to provide additional visual interest.

You can, of course, also find multi-colored dot patterns on occasion, but this is going to be especially casual. And when it comes to the formalities of the colors themselves, polka dots follow the same conventions of formal versus casual colors that are also inherent to the rest of menswear.

So, when calculating the formality of polka dots, you can see that taking size, density, pattern, and color into consideration are all necessary elements. Let’s take a look at a couple of examples.

Taking the size, pattern, and color into consideration are all necessary elements.
Taking the size, pattern, and color into consideration is important to stylishly wear polka dots.

First, we take a look at a bow tie that has small, high-density dots in a regular pattern, but the fact that it is so strongly multi-colored makes it extremely casual. Conversely, a necktie has low-density, average-sized dots, but the muted body color and the fact that the dots are white, make it much more formal compared to the other example. 

So, remember to consider all four of the guidelines we’ve laid out here, but use your best judgment when you’re putting your outfits together.

General Tips in Wearing Polka Dots

The beauty of polka dots is how they lend themselves easily to various two and three-color combinations. While white spots help to bring the white of a shirt forward, dots in other colors can help to bridge the various elements of your outfit in creative ways. For example, you could leverage the dots on a tie or pocket square to bring in a harder-to-wear color like yellow.

When wearing multiple accessories with polka dots, make sure that the dots aren't all at the same scale.

Multiple Accessories

When wearing multiple accessories with polka dots, make sure that the dots aren’t all at the same scale.

When wearing polka dots – as with any other pattern – be mindful of the theory of scale. This is to say, if you’ve got multiple patterned accessories or, especially, multiple accessories featuring polka dots, make sure that the dots aren’t all at the same scale. Play around with variations like having the dots on your bow tie be average-sized, but the dots on your pocket square be smaller in comparison.

Of course, wearing multiple types of polka dots at once is always going to look bold and make a style statement, so if you’re just starting out with the pattern, it’s probably a good idea to stick to one polka-dotted element.

How to Wear Polka Dots Casually

When it comes to wearing polka dots casually, you’re going to have the greatest amount of relative freedom as polka dots always lend an element of fun to any outfit.

Polka dots have the greatest amount of relative freedom as they lend an element of fun to any outfit.
Polka dots have the greatest amount of relative freedom as they lend an element of fun to any outfit. [Image Credit: BooHooMan]

In the warmer months, for instance, you could consider something like a polka dot shirt in blue and white that will create a casual, nautically-inspired look that will go well with light trousers and boat shoes. Many shirts with polka dots are also going to exude a certain retro charm.

And while full polka dot trousers are going to be outside the realm of classic menswear, polka dot shorts are a fun, casual option, especially for warm weather occasions like resort wear. This is probably why the pattern is so popular for swimsuits. These dotted shorts could be paired with a polo or short-sleeved linen shirt – preferably in a solid color to make the outfit not too flashy overall.

Meanwhile, a casual ascot or scarf worn as a neckerchief will allow you to incorporate polka dots into your outfits in unexpected ways. This was another popular, warm-weather look for men in the first half of the 20th century as it allowed them to wear their shirt collars open to catch the breeze but still be wearing some kind of neckwear. This same logic also makes casual, polka-dotted ascots or neckerchiefs ideal for relaxing at home or adding a bit more visual interest to a sedate outfit.

Darker colors and smaller, denser dot patterns are the safest choices.
Darker colors and smaller, denser dot patterns are the safest choices.

Polka dot socks are also an amusing way to inject some playfulness into things, but keep in mind that you don’t want people’s attention on your ankles all the time. 

So, the safest choices are going to be more formal overall, with darker colors and smaller, denser dot patterns. And as we alluded to earlier, you can achieve a similar effect without actually employing dots by wearing our two-tone, solid Fort Belvedere socks. For especially casual looks, though, feel free to have some fun.

Wearing Polka Dots Formally

Returning now to the other end of the formality scale, if you can believe it, polka dots are actually perfectly acceptable in some formal dress codes like morning wear.

Polka dots can be worn with a black tie optional or any lower dress codes on the formality scale.
Polka dots can be worn with a black tie optional or any lower dress code on the formality scale.

You’re probably not going to want to break out polka dots for Black Tie or White Tie, however, but as we mentioned earlier, you can wear them for Black Tie optional or any lower dress code on the formality scale like cocktail attire or business attire.

The Formality Scale: How Clothes Rank From Formal To Informal

In general, the key to getting a formal polka dot look right is scale. Returning to our earlier considerations, you’re going to want to stick to smaller dots and more formal colors as well.

In formal settings, neckwear is going to be one of the most common places to find polka dots as dotted neckties or bow ties can be seen as more formal or more casual, depending on the rest of the ensemble. Printed silk is always going to be a safe choice for formal occasions. But, for variety, you could consider something like woven soft wool challis or silk jacquard or shantung, grenadine or knit ties, where the dots are hand-embroidered or even hand-painted on since perfectly round dots can’t be woven.

Polka dots are most easily worn against solid shirts.

Solid Shirts

Polka dots are most easily worn against solid shirts.

As they’re typically a small repeating geometric pattern, polka dots are most easily worn against solid shirts. But, if you want to wear two patterns, consider wearing a shirt with a subtle stripe or going for a larger pattern in your jacket like a window pane. Polka-dotted formal ascots should follow similar rules and, overall, should conform to the more sedate conventions of morning dress. Scarves worn formally with an overcoat are an excellent way to add some color to an outfit, especially on those drab winter days.

To help keep your overall look sufficiently formal, opt for muted but lustrous colors like rich red, deep blue, subdued purple, earthy green, or warm brown.

Wool Challis Pocket Square in Orange with Green Polka Dots - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Pocket Square in Orange with Green Polka Dots – Fort Belvedere

Knit Tie in Solid Olive Green Silk - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Knit Tie in Solid Olive Green Silk – Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Turquoise with Gray, Orange, Navy and Yellow Pattern - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Wool Challis Tie in Turquoise with Gray, Orange, Navy and Yellow Pattern – Fort Belvedere

Outside of neckwear, then, polka-dotted pocket squares are the most common menswear accessory to bear the pattern. As pocket squares are often a means of introducing a third or even fourth color into an outfit, bi-colored polka dots are perfect for these circumstances. 

Because of their strong repeating pattern, polka-dotted pocket squares are going to work best with a solid tie or one that has a different pattern. Though, as mentioned before, you can be bold enough to pair polka-dotted ties and squares together if you’re keeping scale in mind. And when it comes to color, strong contrast is going to appear more casual, whereas more proximate colors are going to look more formal.

Conclusion

As we’ve hopefully illustrated today then, polka dots aren’t just for clowns, and they can appear dignified if you know what you’re doing. So, we hope that today’s guide hasn’t left you seeing spots but, instead, seeing polka dots in a new light.

How do you like to wear polka dots in your outfits? Let us know in the comments below!

Outfit Rundown

Preston is wearing polka dots in multiple elements of his outfit.
Preston is wearing polka dots in multiple elements of his outfit.
Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

White Linen Pocket Square with Blue Hand Embroidered Polka Dots Spots - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

White Linen Pocket Square with Blue Hand Embroidered Polka Dots Spots – Fort Belvedere

Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls - 925 Sterling Palladium Plated - Fort Belvedere on a white background

Fort Belvedere

Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls – 925 Sterling Palladium Plated – Fort Belvedere

Light Blue & Midnight Blue Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue & Midnight Blue Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton – Fort Belvedere

Today, I am, of course, wearing polka dots in multiple elements of my outfit as well as circles of other kinds. We’ll start here with my white linen pocket square from Fort Belvedere, featuring hand-embroidered polka dots in blue.

Meanwhile, my silk tie in a jacquard weave is in light blue with white polka dots, and while we don’t offer this specific design currently in the Fort Belvedere shop, we do have one in the same pattern style in beige. Also from Fort Belvedere are my platinum-plated, sterling silver, eagle claw cufflinks featuring blue lapis lazuli as the stone in a spherical shape that also brings dots to mind.

My two-toned, solid socks in light blue and midnight blue also evoke dots, even though they aren’t technically polka dots. And my tan derby shoes feature broguing on them, which is, of course, also a circular design.

Other elements of my outfit today obviously include my vintage camel hair jacket, my plain light blue shirt, and plain brown trousers with a warm red undertone, as well as my light blue veronica persica boutonniere from Fort Belvedere.

And with the exception of this specific tie, you can, of course, find all of the Fort Belvedere accessories I’m wearing as well as a wide array of other classic men’s accessories by visiting the Fort Belvedere shop.

*Note: Today’s post and associated video were scripted by E.J. Daniels, and adapted from an earlier post on our website by Dr. Christopher Lee.

Reader Comments

  1. I am always careful about what type of polka dots I wear on my ties.

    I go for the smaller, subtle patterns. I think the bigger dots look a bit crass.

  2. I love the polka dot socks! I love wearing all kinds of crazy socks to keep the suit fun and easy going. I’m just now diving into the world of pocket squares. I never really used them prior. It’s funny that the pocket doesn’t match the tie.

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