The Best and Worst Men’s Colognes of the ’80s and ’90s – Retro Fragrance Review

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Before the 1980s, fragrances were local and few in choice. Colognes were the domain of beauty store counter clerks, high-end designers, and a few fashion houses that men would sometimes use certain grooming products in place of cologne. Ironically, today’s fragrance market is oversaturated! So let’s take a trip back in time to the ‘80s and ‘90s to see if the fragrances from our youth hold up to today’s standards.

Our Team’s Review of Retro Colognes

The following 10 fragrances have been tested and reviewed by our team but I haven’t smelled any of them yet. So for each one, I’ll give my first impressions as well as the considered opinions of the rest of the Gentleman’s Gazette team.

As a side note: all of the fragrances that we will be reviewing are going to be shown in their full retail price at the time of writing. Although some can often be found at discount retailers, be aware that sometimes you can find counterfeit products by doing this. 

The popular fragrances of the '80s and '90s.
The popular fragrances of the ’80s and ’90s.

1. Calvin Klein Obsession For Men

This is one of the most characteristic and dominant fragrances of the 1980s. Even though this wasn’t Klein’s first fragrance, it was one of their most successful fragrances that they produced and it helped launch Klein to be a serious contender in the market.

Obsession For Men was released in 1986, one year after the successful launch of Obsession For Women. The brand itself in its heyday in the ‘70s,‘80s, and ‘90s was known for being classic and minimalistic. The scent is sold as something that is clean, versatile and is suited for everyday wear. So, that matches the brand’s image, but does it match the scent? 

It’s still packaged in its original packaging: a curved bottle, that actually feels a little outdated, and a little bit feminine. But what can be expected from that came from the 1980s? The price is $82 for 4 ounces or 118 milliliters.

Obsession For Men was one of Calvin Klein's most successful fragrances.
Obsession For Men was one of Calvin Klein’s most successful fragrances.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include tangerine, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, lavender, cinnamon, and coriander.
  • Heart notes include carnation, jasmine, rosewood, nutmeg, pine, myrrh, and red berries.
  • Base notes include amber, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, patchouli, and vetiver

Upon smelling this the first time, I felt that it was a very light, clean, and mature fragrance. This is something that I would highly recommend that most people add to their collection.

Obsession now sells for $82 for 4oz or 118ml.
Obsession now sells for $82 for 4oz or 118ml.

2. Dior Fahrenheit

They’re not as famous as Obsession, Dior Fahrenheit was released in 1988. Dior as a fashion house has actually been producing fragrances since 1947 so they weren’t new to the game when they released Fahrenheit.

The brand describes its fragrance as a woody floral musk, and intense. That sounds rather busy to us. Just from that description, we can imagine that this is going to be an acquired taste. This is still packaged in the original bottle which while suited to the name, does make it appear like a drugstore-level product rather than a department store level product. The price is $95 for 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters.

Dior Fahrenheit
Dior Fahrenheit (Image Credit: Dior Website)

Fragrance notes

  • Top notes include lavender, mandarin orange, cedar, nutmeg flower, hawthorn, bergamot, chamomile, and lemon.
  • Heart notes include nutmeg, honeysuckle, carnation, violet wood, sandalwood, jasmine, cedar, lily of the valley.
  • Base notes include leather, tonka bean, amber, vetiver, musk, and patchouli. 

Upon smelling this for the first time, I did find that it was a tolerable scent but not something that I would probably go for.

We settled for a tester first rather than buying a whole bottle right away.
We settled for a tester first rather than buying a whole bottle right away.

What Does The Team Think?

One person wrote: “Opener lighter fluid… Yuck! Hawthorn and chamomile are over-dominant!” Another person wrote, “It’s undoubtedly unique,” another wrote, “It gets better but it’s highly unusual,” and someone else wrote that, “It’s so, so strong.”

As far as if the team here at the Gentleman’s Gazette would actually wear this fragrance, overall, we see that most of us would actually prefer not to be wearing this fragrance. It’s a little bit outside of everyone’s wheelhouse. 

Dior Fahrenheit currently sells for $95 for 4oz.
Dior Fahrenheit currently sells for $95 for 3.4oz.

3. Davidoff Cool Water

Davidoff Cool Water is an icon in this era. It was actually launched in 1988. Even men who aren’t familiar with fragrances are also going to be able to recognize the name Davidoff Cool Water due to the extensive advertising. This is still seen as a very common fragrance, so if you want something that’s going to smell classic but not have you stand out too much, this is a great one to consider.

It is described primarily as fresh which makes sense, given the name. Some have claimed that this scent is a little bit of a dupe for Creed’s Green Irish Tweed, which if true, would make the value of this amazing. Although they do have some similarities in top notes, we end up disagreeing on this because of the differences they have in both their base and heart notes. They really settle into being two different scents over time.

Davidoff Cool Water
Davidoff Cool Water

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include seawater, mint, green notes, lavender, coriander, and rosemary.
  • Heart notes include geranium, neroli, jasmine, and sandalwood.
  • Base notes include cedarwood, musk, amber, and tobacco.

My first impression when smelling this was you can never get tired of Cool Water. It’s a clean and fairly timely scent that will work for a lot of different personalities and age groups. This is something that I would recommend having in a collection. The price is $75 for 4.2 ounces or 124 milliliters.

Some say that this was a dupe of Creed's Green Irish Tweed.
Some say that Cool Water was a dupe of Creed’s Green Irish Tweed.

What Does The Team Think?

One person noted, “It is light and fresh. They noted that there are baking spices in the background and that it had a touch of warmth, mint, and vanilla.” One person went ahead and called this a “Douchey” scent. Another wrote that it smells like cheap, mint body wash. And another wrote that “It seems like big companies are knocking this fragrance off for cheap hotels and cheap body washes.”

Overall, the consensus with the team was that most people found that they’d be willing to at least wear this fragrance.

Davidoff Cool Water is a great option to consider if you want something that smells classic but won't make you stand out.
Davidoff Cool Water is a great option to consider if you want something that smells classic but won’t make you stand out.

4. Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme

Like Cool Water, Acqua Di Gio is an icon of this era. It was launched in 1996. The price is $88 for 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include mandarin orange, bergamot, jasmine, lime, neroli, and lemon.
  • Heart notes include coriander, floral notes, nutmeg, sea notes, and rosemary.
  • Base notes include white musk, cedar, oakmoss, patchouli, and amber.

My first impressions were that this was an elegant, light, and yet masculine scent. This is definitely something that I would personally want to wear on occasion.

Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme, also an icon of this era, was launched in 1996.
Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme, also an icon of this era, was launched in 1996.

What Does The Team Think?

One wrote that “It felt very familiar to us.” Another wrote, “It’s light, inoffensive, and pleasant.” Another wrote, “It’s a crowd-pleaser and quite mainstream… almost generic.” Another wrote that it’s very wearable because it’s not a big statement. Another person wrote, “There’s an Abercrombie and Fitch lightness to it. A bit of precursor to what many fragrance brands will actually use.”

Overall, the consensus of the team is that most of us would actually consider wearing this fragrance. However, not with Raphael. He found that it was too pedestrian. 

Most of the team would actually consider wearing Acqua Di Gio's scent.
Most of the team would actually consider wearing Acqua Di Gio’s scent.

5. Issey Miyake L’eau D’Issey Pour Homme

Launched in 1994, Issey Miyake L’eau D’Issey Pour Homme was described as a woody, aquatic fragrance. The price is $97 for 4.2 ounces or 124 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include yuzu, bergamot, lemon, and tarragon.
  • Heart notes include nutmeg, water lily, mignonette, cinnamon, and geranium.
  • Base notes include tobacco, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, musk, and amber.
The fragrance was launched in 1994.
L’eau D’Issey Pour Homme was launched in 1994.

My first impression when smelling this was there was a bit of fruit and floral scent to it. Kinda reminded me of a farmer’s market. I found that this was a great scent for daywear, for casual outings, especially for the warmer months.

What Does The Team Think?

One person thought that “It smelled fresh, citrus, and of mild woods.” Another wrote that “It had a bit of a grassy element,” and another wrote that they didn’t really have any strong feelings for it. Overall, it appears that most of the team would consider wearing this fragrance.

L’eau D’Issey Pour Homme sells for $97 for 4.2oz or 124ml
L’eau D’Issey Pour Homme sells for $97 for 4.2oz or 124ml

6: Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male

This fragrance launched in 1995 and was incredibly popular for well over ten years. Many have described Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male as a bit of a safe buy that’s classic yet unique as it has warm baking notes and a lot of vanilla inside. The price was $94 for 4.2 ounces or 124 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include mint, lavender, bergamot, artemisia, cardamom.
  • Heart notes include cinnamon, cumin, and orange blossom.
  • Base notes include vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood, cedarwood.
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male was launched 1995.
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male was launched in 1995.

What Does The Team Think?

One person wrote that it had anise top notes. They found when anise is blended with other scents, it smells quite pleasant. One person noted the vanilla and baking spices and a slight mintiness. One person noted that the bottle was well endowed. And others noted the very dominant vanilla and how unique the fragrance actually is.

When I first smelled this, I really enjoyed the spice and vanilla combination. I think that this scent would be intriguing to those who happen to smell you without overpowering everyone else’s noses.

Most of the team found that they would be wearing this fragrance. However, not Raphael as he found there’s a little bit too much vanilla in the finish.

Most of the team likes Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male's scent and would wear it.
Most of the team likes Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male’s scent and would wear it.

7 . Givenchy Gentleman

Givenchy Gentleman was launched in the 1970s, though there’s some confusion, as various sources list either 1974 or ’75. We mistakenly saw 1994 as its launch date when including it in today’s list, and while it’s therefore a chronological outlier in this group, it’s still in good company with other ’70s fragrances we’ve covered, like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and Creed’s Green Irish Tweed. The price is $89 for 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include bergamot, lemon, and petitgrain.
  • Heart notes include rosemary, iris, and vetiver.
  • Base notes include ambroxan and musk.
Givenchy Gentlemen was launched in 1994.
Givenchy Gentlemen was launched in 1994.

What Does The Team Think?

The team noted that “It was an intensely masculine fragrance,” and others noted the spices, aromatics, balsamic, and sandalwood notes.

My first impression of Givenchy Gentleman was, “Wow, this smells like success.” Initially, this scent does come off a bit strong but as long as one does not completely bathe in it, I think that it will be great for a sophisticated and mature individual. Overall, the general consensus with most of the team was that we would actually not be wearing this fragrance.

The team will definitely wear this scent.
The team would definitely NOT wear this scent.

8. Calvin Klein CK One

Like its predecessor Obsession, Calvin Klein CK One became an iconic and very popular fragrance upon its launch in the 1990s This is actually one of the first to be introduced as a unisex fragrance. This really suited the brand at the time as they constantly were featuring models, male and female wearing the same underwear. The price is $65 for 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include pineapple, green notes, mandarin, orange, papaya, bergamot, cardamom, and lemon.
  • Heart notes include nutmeg, violet, orris root, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, and freesia.
  • Base notes include sandalwood, amber, musk, cedar, oakmoss, green tea, and green accord.
CK One also became iconic after it was launched
CK One also became iconic after it was launched in the 1990s

What Does The Team Think?

One person noted that it was very lime forward and not as sharp as other lime forward fragrances. In the description, we’re seeing pineapple and green notes as top notes. And the rest of the team was noting soft citrus rounded by other fragrances. Another person noted that “It’s definitely a unisex scent; it doesn’t mean too far into being either too feminine or too masculine.” And another person noted that it’s a crowd-pleaser but not too strong.

Upon smelling this for the first time, I found that I don’t usually go for very strong scents but if you’ll give it a minute, you’ll notice that the intensity appears to melt away and you’ll have a very tolerable scent. I especially enjoy the hints of the mandarin orange and the green notes.

Overall, the Gentleman’s Gazette team is finding that they would consider wearing this fragrance.

Most of the team would consider wearing CK One.
Most of the team would consider wearing CK One.

9. Drakkar Noir

Drakkar Noir was launched in 1982. This was so popular that it won a FiFi Award for best men’s fragrance in 1985. Its heavy and masculine advertising made it a household name in the 80s and 90s. It was the bestselling men’s prestige scent in 1991. This is described as an aromatic Fougere scent and it really helped cement the trend. The price is $65 for 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include rosemary, artemisia, lavender, basil, verbena, bergamot, and lemon.
  • Heart notes include coriander, carnation, cinnamon, juniper, and jasmine.
  • Base notes include leather, sandalwood, fir, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar.
Drakkar Noir
Drakkar Noir won a FiFi Award for best men’s fragrance in 1985

What Does The Team Think?

The team found that “It smells sweet, herbal and soft.” They found that the base notes were extremely subtle and a bit of a boudoir smell. Another person noted that it smells quite bohemian. Another noted that it’s not traditionally masculine but calling it unisex might be a bit a stretch. And another noted, “It smells like a French guy made it.”

Upon smelling it for the very first time, I had to admit that I was pretty surprised but actually liked it as much as I did. Although I shouldn’t be too surprised as I do have a bit of ahead going after the scents of cedar or sandalwood notes. Although this is not my favorite or my first choice, I could see myself occasionally considering wearing this fragrance.

However, it does appear that most of the team would actually prefer to not wear this scent.

Drakkar Noir was a best-selling men's cologne in 1991.
Drakkar Noir was a best-selling men’s cologne in 1991.

10. Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein

Launched in 1990, Eternity for Men is yet again another famous fragrance from Calvin Klein. The price is $82 for 3.4 ounces or 100 milliliters.

Fragrance Notes

  • Top notes include lavender, mandarin orange, bergamot, and lemon.
  • Heart notes include coriander, lily, orange blossom, juniper berries, basil, jasmine, sage, lily of the valley, and geranium.
  • Base notes include sandalwood, amber, musk, vetiver, and Brazilian rosewood.
Calvin Klein Eternity For Men sells for $82 for 3.4oz
Calvin Klein Eternity For Men sells for $82 for 3.4oz

When I smelled this for the very first time, I really liked it. I found that it was clean, fresh, and almost reminded me of a barbershop for some reason. I definitely feel that this is something that could be worn in both casual or business settings.

Kyle likes the clean, fresh scent of CK Eternity.
Kyle likes the clean, fresh scent of CK Eternity.

Kyle’s Verdict

Out of this list today, I would say that my personal favorite is probably the Aqua Di Gio. I love how clean and light that fragrance is. But I would say, if I were to talk about what kind of fragrances I usually would go after, as mentioned before, I do kind of find myself really enjoying things that have woody, cedar, sandalwood notes; things that have a bit of leather or kind of a tobacco scent to it, mint, citrus notes in there as well, too. Nothing that’s too overpowering but things with those kinds of combinations are the things that my nose is typically drawn to. 

What’s your favorite retro cologne? Do you still wear it today? Let us know in the comments!

Reader Comments

  1. Two that you are not mentioning here, but I used a lot in the ’80s and later. Paco rabanne and Eau de sauvage

    1. I have been wearing Givenchy Gentlemen since 1977 and it STILL ranks up there with them. I just love the smell. I do wear other very nice colognes but I’ve got to have GG in the cabinet.

  2. Surprised you didn’t have a mention of Polo in the green bottle. A classic 80’s cologne. Has it been reviewed elsewhere?

    1. My thoughts exactly – one of the most popular fragrances in the 80s for sure, and one of the most recognizable. I wore it from 6th grade through high school.

    2. You are right. Its the best in the POLO range. It literally lasts for years without deteriorating at all. Pricey though

    3. Ralph Lauren Polo (the original “Green”) was introduced in 1978. So since this review was of 80’s and 90’s frags, that’s probably why Polo Green wasn’t included, even though its popularity continued and even heightened through the 80’s. It’s still my signature winter frag today.

  3. No review of Aqua Velva or Lectric Shave? The list is incomplete. Yes those are aftershave and drug store brands.

    Let’s be honest, considering the massive cost difference it has to be much better. Men also need to know how to wear it. I’ve known too many men that bathe in colognes. Even expensive ones.

    I wore Drakkar for years. It became tired and frankly few men wear colognes anymore and fewer still know how to do it properly.

    This is a review of the best buggy whips or white wall tires. There is so little call for this, I cannot see myself spending even $50 for a bottle of something to wear that will be unnoticed or end up offending half the people who might notice.

    Unless you are in law offices or boardrooms, I cannot see the benefit.

    1. I agree John. Being an urban dweller, there are few things as maddening (and potentially offensive) as someone who bathes in cologne or after shave. I avoid elevators and take the stairs ;-)

    2. Agree. I enjoyed the drug store fragrances then, and I still do. Iron by Coty, Stetson, Adidas Classic, were all great!

  4. While walking through Bloomingdale’s in 1983 as a 17 year old, I was given a sample of Chanel’s Antaeus and have worn it ever since. Harder and harder to find but Bloomingdale’s at 59 and Lex still carries it.

    1. Hey Scott,

      I did searches at those Bloomingdales locations for Antaeus and nothing showed up. That’s my favorite fragrance of all time. Thanks, Sean…

  5. This is a good discussion. I have tried some of the colognes mentioned and still have Acqua di Gio.
    But since I am a wet shaver I found that I like the scents from Truefitt & Hill better
    Especially the 1805 and West Indian Limes.
    They are available from Truefitt & Hill directly as they have a website here.
    Cost is $75.00 for 100 mL spray bottle.
    They also have shave cream, soap, and aftershave balm. I use many of them.

  6. Personally, I am An Obsession Fan. But my only regret concerning it, is that The Scent doesn’t last too long.

    1. I second that vote, Gary: Obsession is the one. It is the only fragrance I find with character. But to each his own…

  7. When i think of 80s cologne, the orginal polo, the quinessential green bottle, was the go to fragrance most guys i personally all had in the medicine cabinet or on the dresser

  8. What about Loewe’s Esencia? It’s not sold in the States. Loewe is not a spanish company from a lot of years ago. It belongs to LVMH group.

  9. I appreciate the note-taking on Obsession, Drakkar Noir and Eternity. All were favorites and all were worn at one time or another. Obsession remains the one I like best and have worn for many years.

  10. What about the original Calvin Klein scent – Calvin. Drakkar is great! Was very famous back in the 80s, early 90s, but date now. Still like the smell, as it’s classic, but will make you smell old school (nothing wrong with that). Obsession is still great. Out of the list above only Isse Mikyaki, Cool Water, Aqua Di Gio would still stand the test of time by not being overly outdated. But just because a scent is outdated, doesn’t make it bad. Just need to find the right time and place to wear it!

  11. I’ve been using Polo in the green bottle since the mid-70s, when I got a sample in Wilkinson’s, then a men’s store in St. Louis. There have been a couple of detours over the years, when a lady friend gave me something else she wanted me to wear, but I’ve always gone back. An 8oz. bottle lasts me about 3 yrs.

  12. Calvin Klein Escape! Such a unique scent and doesn’t make your eyes water for ages. Also, this may completely invalidate the integrity of my opinions however Stetson’s Preferred Stock was my first cologne and for me, once it settles down and blends with your skin’s oils it’s a really nice scent. I’ve actually received more compliments on that scent than all the other ones I’ve had over the years which is just funny given it’s low low price. Fun discussion.

  13. Question for Sven:

    I’ve spent a fair amount of time around Germans in Germany and here in the US with whom ones natural aroma doesn’t seem to be remarked on.

    Things change, but as of my most recent trip just a few years ago a carload of Germans in summer was powerfully redolent of a carload of Germans in summer, and not something that seemed worthy of remark by those present.

    Is moderate B.O. truly socially acceptable and unremarkable in Germany? Does it go unnoticed, or is it a fragrance of it’s own? Is this a misconception on my part?

    I leave in Arizona’s hot desert and I’d say it’s culturally much less acceptable here; getting on a bus in Tucson in July usually has nowhere near the same impact-I believe most people are likely to be wearing deodorants.

    Much of my work is outdoors. It is reality that by the end of the day a truckload of workmen is going to smell like a truckload of men, who if they remark on it at all mention that they look forward to getting in a shower as soon as they get home.

    They’re unlikely to go anywhere else first.

    As to wearing fragrances…culture clearly plays a role in acceptability of perfumes.

    I don’t. My cultural background imprinted an enduring prejudice on me that colognes are rather dandyish, for real men, if not exactly verboten. B.O. on the other hand was verboten, although after years of living and working here with the heat and the impact of German friends I’ve come to a more realistic tolerance for it.

    On the other hand, almost half my fellow male citizens are of Latino ancestry, which appears to take a different view of the matter. After bathing it is pretty common to find the men put on a hefty dose of fragrance before a night out.

    J

    1. German ladies also were not in the habit of shaving their armpits etc. . I think the new generation does. France used to have an unfounded reputation for “pongs” but its not correct these days.

  14. Good article. I still use 2 of the ones mentioned till date, Drakkar Noir & Fahrenheit. Surprised you didn’t have a mention for CD Eau Sauvage. Still have all these 3 in my collection ever since I was a student in high school, well that’s 30 years ago :)

  15. Although it’s not made anymore, you can still find it on places like eBay, and sadly my personal stash is dwindling, but I love(d) Polo’s Safari

  16. I’m glad a previous poster (or two) mentioned Polo in the green bottle. Very iconic in the 80s. Another one I remember well was Aramis. Very masculine. Another carry-over from the 70s into the 80s was Brut, by Faberge. You can still get Brut 33 online. And finally, there was New West – which I believe was manufactured by Aramis at first but was taken over by Estee Lauder. It was launched in ’88 but had a big official marketing push when I worked at Macy’s in 1991. New West had echoes of the sea in its bouquet, but the official word has it comprised of several notes: at the top of the composition are scents of bergamot, mint, lavender, caraway, artemisia and aldehydes. Sea notes also make up a big part of the opening. In the heart, you will find aromas of geranium, jasmine, bay leaf, watermelon, juniper berries, coriander and pine tree. The base of the cologne consists of cedar, musk, patchouli, oak moss, sandalwood, leather and amber.
    Aqua Velva and Old Spice were low-end purchases but extremely popular after shaves, if not pure colognes.
    Paul Stuart is a NYC men’s wear store on the same block as Brooks Brothers; when I worked there mid-80s, they carried a full complement of colognes that seemed to mimic the available bestsellers – citrus-y, masculine, musky, light, vanilla-based…all of them.

    1. Brut is sold in all supermarkets and discounts stores in France. I remember it well, but the fragrance is not the same. Its less “powerful” and much milder. Not great. I repeat there are still some great old established Italian & Spanish colognes like : aqua di silva, , la toja, froid blue, victor , pino silvestre. All available online; reasonably long lasting and compared to others “a steal”

  17. For a future story, Paul Stuart has their own fragrances and is now selling Phenalgions and Santa Maria Novellla in their own stores.

  18. Informative, I enjoy reading about fragrance, especially before a purchase.
    The one gripe I have regarding men’s grooming is a lack of products with the same scent that one may wear during a day. One winds up smelling like a fruit salad due to the fragrance, deodorant, hair products, etc. all with different scents from different manufacturers. How about a line of products smelling the same across the board?

  19. Cacharel pour homme is the best from the ’80s. Givency insence ultramarine from the ’90s and the classic Guerlain’s Vetiver the champion.of the world.
    Tosca 4711 and Aqua Velva from the ’70s, as after shave.

  20. Hi boys! Does anyone remember the name of the cologne from the 80’s that touted having pheromones in it? There was a men’s and women’s version. My mind keeps bouncing to a name starting with “I”…..does that help? Thanks! ♥

  21. An article on retro ’80s men’s colognes and no mention of Xeryus or Grey Flannel? I still love Xeryus actually, though the current formulation is slightly changed and I prefer picking up vintage bottles on ebay.

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