It’s time again, as we always do, to share some photos of men’s outfits from Pitti Uomo. Most things have been said or written about the event, so I will simply refer you to our past posts. Today, I will share some photos and commentary of the outfits from the event.
Plaid & Windowpane are popular
This season, windowpane and plaid flannels as well as worsteds seemed to be rather popular. Of course, you can find everything from a subtle windowpane in muted colors to bold plaid in loud colors.
Very nice, muted outfit in a mottled brown fabric with a light blue windowpane. Note that this windowpane is almost square and hence it does not make the wearer appear taller, an effect that can be achieved with windowpanes that are taller than they are wide. The knit tie in olive green and beige is likewise mottled and a great companion to a brown suit. Personally, I am fond of combinations in these colors, which is why I created 2 knit ties similar to it. While one is better for brown combinations, the other works better with gray or blue. In combination with the white and blue fine striped shirt, it would make for a rather quiet ensemble, if he had skipped the tortoiseshell sunglasses dangling from his chest pocket. The pocket square in orange provides enough contrast on its own.
This outfit is what I would call ‘Pitti-Peacock’, in the sense that it is bold, colorful, loud and most importantly, it looks like too much thought went into it. A jacket like this has to be the only accent because it is so dominant. Leaving all three sleeve buttons open does not add sprezzatura, nor does the orange sweater or the dandy-esquely folded white linen pocket square. Orange itself is fantastic for winter outfits and pairs particularly well with brown or green jackets, but it suits an outfit if it is a little more subdued.
Here we see Pitti-Peacock outfit #2. It consists of a bold jacket, unusual buttons in pewter and mother of pearl, a range of textures, patterns and materials as well as colors. At the end of the day it makes the wearer look like he wanted to draw attention to him, no matter the kind.
The patterns worn by the person on the left are classic – a blue windowpane SB suit with a Prince of Wales check overcoat in black and white. The brown tie doesn’t really fit in, nor does the mini red boutonniere. The size is proportionally awkward and even Charles Barkley wears these kind of fake knit/leather pins on his lapel now. You are much better off with a real boutonniere, real or otherwise, that actually looks like the real thing (such as here). The man on the right is clearly seeking attention, wearing a windowpane suit as well as an overcoat in roughly the same size. In combination with the red and blue striped socks, his manifold wristbands, light blue sunglasses and monogrammed Louis Vuitton case, he looks like he just came to Pitti to be photographed.
Overcoats were generally colorful, sometimes in nice shades of blues, winter whites or brown. Also, the cape seems to be gaining in popularity. Our contributor Miguel will tell you all about his new Portuguese cape shortly.
Beautiful, classic ensemble with camel paletot, madder inspired silk scarf in red and yellow, and a tweed tie. To me this outfit is great because it combines one standout pieces with other more muted elements, yet is it unique all along.
Men who wear red overcoats obviously love to be the center of attention. While I wouldn’t wear such a bright overcoat myself, I find this outfit interesting because of the color scheme. Instead of the yellow pocket square, a navy micropattern would have been preferable, but I like the suits combination of mid gray, navy, red and white.
Casentino cloth in all colors has become popular due to its texture that looks more like a pilling felt rather than a fabric. Here the classic Casentino orange is made into duffle coat with the classic green lining. If I would ever go with such a color, I would only choose the original Casentino because that way you can at least build your outfit on history, whereas in this outfit it seems just obnoxious.
Lino seems to have developed a taste for blue overcoats and here he wears a gingham checked blue overcoat and he now buckles his double monks!
Chances are you will not see this picture outside of Pitti. First, the trousers on the left are extremely narrow, very short with big cuffs and paired with bold herringbone overcoat and rust colored suede shoes and gloves, you can tell it is a fashion forward person. The person next to him wears a casentino cloth overcoat with slim winter white pants, blue and red striped socks, suede double monk shoes and yellow gloves.
Unusual blue overcoats & Luca Rubinacci as usual in bold patterns and daring color combinations.
Mottled Melange Fabrics
One trend I particularly enjoy is mottled or melange fabrics. Most of the time, these look like solid fabrics from a few yards away but once you get closer, you can see all the different shades in the wool. Tweeds or flannel often have this melange effect and in my opinion, it adds a sophisticated component to the outfit because the color has more depth.
Donegal tweed is one of these mottled melange fabrics and here you can see the beautiful brown up close. The blue jacket is also mottled but in a softer way, without the distinct knobs of the tweed. Which kind of melange fabric do you prefer?
While I think the color of this jacket is excellent, it does not fit its wearer because it is obviously way too short, just like the knit vest underneath. On top of that, the pants have a very low rise and in combination with the belt this outfit should never be imitated.
Personally, I think this is a fantastic melange sportcoat. The collar tab shows it is country, just like the hacking pockets which add a dynamic flair. Ironically, this is not from Pitti but a picture that is several years old, showing that classic style is timeless. I am not a fan of leather tote bags for men but each to his own.
Beautiful brown melange suit.
Here a few other interesting shots. Note the man in khaki. In my opinion, it is an excellent example why you should never mix different shades of khaki – it just looks off. Instead, create more contrast between the garments if you have to wear the same color, and the result will look much better.
Photo credit: GQ, Manolo and others.