Pitti Uomo 90

Pitti Uomo 90 Men’s Summer Outfits

It is once again time for Pitti Uomo, the Florentine men’s fashion trade show that attracts all kinds of outlandish outfits and curiosities.

Considering the event, this gentleman is very subdued, although, in the real world, it would be quite a daring combination.  Striped shirt with blue tie and hat band, which is picked up by the blue overplaid on his suit. Because it’s warm, he left his shirt cuffs unbuttoned which is indeed a great way to stay cool while adding a nonchalant touch to your outfit. Note the absence of a belt and dimples in his tie.

Francesco Celentano in combination of blue and grey Photo by fabriziodipaoloph

Francesco Celentano in a combination of blue and grey Photo by fabriziodipaoloph

Next up is a younger gentleman wearing club masters with a lighter shade of dark blue paired with mother of pearl buttons, open collar, and a pocket square. Not very exciting but certainly summery. Note the patch pockets which seem to outnumber flapped pockets.

Blue summer suit with mother of pearl buttons and patch pockets - photo by beforeeesunrise

Blue summer suit with mother of pearl buttons and patch pockets – photo by beforeeesunrise

Of course, you also find a lot of peacocks at Pitti, and as such a feather is a suiting accessory. Naturally, nobody would wear it in the real world but in order to get some attention one must be creative during Pitti, although you’d probably stand out more in a solid grey polo in this crowd.

Peacocks need a feather - photo by beforeeesunrise

Peacocks need a feather – photo by beforeeesunrise

Lino has been keeping it rather uneventful for the last few shows although he always incorporated elements on light blue in his outfits. This color works well with his hair and complexion. Notice the dark blue mother of pearl buttons, which are difficult to come by.

Lino with blue mother of pearl buttons and 7 tie next to Luca Rubinacci - photo by beforeeesunrise

Lino with blue mother of pearl buttons and 7 tie next to Luca Rubinacci – photo by beforeeesunrise

On the left, we have a summery color scheme that is light, yet it provides enough contrast. Tobacco brown linen works well with off-white trousers, though the light blue short is not an ideal companion. Either go with the same color as the pants or opt for stripes for checks for more visual contrast. The changeant purple suit is definitely only something that can be worn at Pitti, while the seersucker of Gui Bo could come in handy during a garden party. The hat is a bit too green for my taste – what do you think?

Unusual seersucker with green hat by Gui Bo with purple mottled suit, tobacco linen and light grey summer sport coat

Unusual seersucker with green hat by Gui Bo with mottled purple suit, tobacco linen and light grey summer sport coat

Gui Bo with denim shirt and seersucker jacket

Gui Bo with denim shirt and seersucker jacket – note the suede and plain leather spectators

For men of color, high contrast outfits work well. Obviously, a lemon yellow suit is really bold but due to the high contrast it looks better than if a blonde man would wear it.

Contrast works well for him

Contrast works well for him

Even though it’s summer and the double layer of fabric makes you extra warm, many men at Pitti decide to pull off that style. If you want to do so too, keep in mind that it looks sloppy when unbuttoned.

Double Breasted is popular this summer

Double Breasted is popular this summer

With a jacket like this, there is normally no need for any extra patterns. The shirt and tie are overkill but note the beautiful mustache.

Pink Patterns - Photo by fabriziodipaoloph

Pink Patterns – Photo by fabriziodipaoloph

On the other hand, a light pink can work great for summer as this gentleman shows us. Khakis and tassels are great, although the felt hat is more for winter than for summer. Also, when you wear trousers with suspenders, skip the belt loops – it looks better.

How to pull off pink

How to pull off pink

Anything other than pale pink, purple or red colors makes you look like you are a musical character rather than a well-dressed gentleman.

Unusual menswear colors

Unusual menswear colors

If it’s really hot outside and you want to make a statement, the shorts suit may be the right thing for you ;-). In the real world, it’s almost impossible to pull off well, though.

The shorts suit with blue tie, suspenders, buttoniere, pocket square, hat, sunglasses and tassel loafers

The shorts suit with blue tie, suspenders, boutonniere, pocket square, hat, sunglasses and tassel loafers

I met this gentleman during my last Pitti Uomo. He is from Korea and is a master in posing for the photographers taking a snap of him. Personally, I like his style a lot. A subtle tie, simple pocket square,and an unusual suit. Daring, but classicly inspired. Not for everyone but he pulls it off well. Note, it’s good to leave your bottom button of a single-breasted vest undone, but for a DB vest, it’s more flattering to keep it buttoned.

Korean style meets Ralph Lauren

Korean style meets Ralph Lauren

Red on navy stripes are rare, especially with super wide peaked lapels on a SB jacket. However, I like this color combination, even though the knit tie is so long that it accentuates anything but his look… Note the size of the waistband. In recent years, it has become the fashion among bespoke aficionados to go with a huge waistband. Some say for comfort; others argue it’s a subtle way to tell people that you can afford bespoke.

Extremely long knit tie with red striped SB peaked lapel suit - note the waistband

Extremely long knit tie with red striped SB peaked lapel suit – note the waistband

We all noticed the trend of short jackets in the last ten years, but this jacket is shorter than the shirt, maybe we see a jacket that ends above the waistband next year ;-).

Can a jacket be any shorter

Can a jacket be any shorter

As always, these outfits are extreme and merely meant to be inspiring.

What’s your takeaway from this Pitti Uomo post? Let us know in the comments.

Article Name
Pitti Uomo 90 Men's Summer Outfits
Take inspiration from the dapper lads, dandies and peacocks at Pitti Uomo 90 so you come up with great men's summer outfits.
Gentleman's Gazette
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13 replies
  1. Joe says:

    Fun pictures, as always. I’ll just comment on the advice of losing the belt loops if you use suspenders… When I first started with bespoke, I was surprised that my tailor felt I should have both buttons for braces and loops for belt. But his advice was due to practicality with my body and my uses for the clothes. His trousers are quite expensive and by having both options, they are a lot more versatile for a variety of situations. A properly sized waistcoat would cover loops in any case, and without the vest, the closed jacket takes care of it. With no vest and an open jacket look, you can always choose the belt instead. And if someone should happen to notice an open belt loop on you someday, well you can always smile and whisper that you know the rules but aren’t afraid to do what works for you. 🙂

  2. Dapper Dutchman says:

    Interesting but not much there that looks “complete”. Sure bits of fabric match here and there but nothing looks really “classic” even in a modern sense. When the fit is nice the color patterns are off and vice-versa. If the point is to draw attention, mission accomplished. And I’d like to opine that excessive wrinkles, except on certain dog breeds, is NEVER suave. A hint surely can be, as it speaks to the fabric and how the garment is used, but no suit or sleeve should look like a dowagers neck!

  3. Alexander says:

    I really like that outfit with the tobacco linen jacket. And no need to say that Luca knows how to dress. To be honest these are the only outfits I would wear.
    But then, it’s Pitti Uomo, and what would it be without it’s peacocks ? And I must say that the pink overkill still has something to it.

  4. Jai says:

    I agreed with most of your criticisms before I even read them! I feel as if I passed a quiz somehow.

    I didn’t like any one of these presentations in total. I liked something about almost every one, but almost every one also had something that bugged me a lot. I liked the colors of the first plaid suit ensemble very much, especially how the blue in the hat band picks up the tie. But I hate seeing naked belt loops. It doesn’t strike me as a daring flouting of convention. It’s nonsense. I wear one suit that is intentionally fitted for not wearing a belt. If that is how your trousers fit, remove the loops.

    I respectfully take a different opinion from the comment about trousers doing double duty with the option of a belt or suspenders. The two have mutually exclusive functions. Suspenders aren’t interchangeable. They aren’t simply a visual accessory. They have a function. They are intended to suspend. That means the trousers must be intentionally loose around the waist so that they actually suspend from the suspenders. The point is to create a draping line. If you could wear a belt with the trousers, then they are too tight around the waist for wearing suspenders.

    Poorly tied ties. Somehow, tying your tie wrong is a fashion statement. But only if you are Italian. I think I never look good if I don’t get my tie right. Maybe I just haven’t sufficient intention and attitude.

    Too much flesh. I cannot bear men who don’t wear socks. It’s perfectly revolting. It just looks dirty to me, like going without underwear and getting skid marks on your dress pants. I’m sorry, all of you are wrong.

    Same for deeply open collar shirts with jackets. It only looks good if you are Italian. And young. Oh, wait, not then either. Sorry.

    My favorite is the black man with the khaki, although I agree he is wearing the wrong hat fabric for the season.

    Yes, the green hat is too green. I think, no, you don’t pull things off simply because you have the audacity to go for it and act as if everything is okay.

    I love the wide waistband. I wish Hollywood pants would come back. In general, I wish 30s style would come back with trousers cut for wearing high with suspenders. I can’t get anything like that.I’ve tried buying trousers with a rise that is too high for me and wearing them with suspenders, but that never really looks right. They’re not designed to be worn high, they’re just designed for a man taller than I.

  5. Henry h says:

    Most look like clowns, dressed for the purpose of being seen so the can add a few more followers to their Instagram accounts and gain a few more Facebook likes….the Gui Bo outfit is the worst,….the banana guy comes a close second.

  6. Diamondflame says:

    Oh, lighten up, guys. It’s the Pitti Uomo! You can have fun with a little more flamboyance into your outfit. But we know sprezzatura when we (don’t) see one. The tattooed chap in the shorts certainly has way too much going on with tie, hat, suspenders, shades, boutonierre, beard, tatts… I wouldn’t be surprised if he had some fancy rings on too!

  7. General Mills! says:

    The Lucky Charms Leprechaun called….he wants his hat back….lol…sorry couldn’t resist!

  8. TreyByDay says:

    I often find your blog a difficult read as your tone is too restrictive, uptight and condemnatory.

    Style is generally subjective and there are few absolute universal truths. This is Pitti and people might as well have fun. I really think at the end of the day you want everything to look effortless and not fusty. Why over think it all when the light blue shirt that was closest in the closet is actually the perfect “ideal companion” anyway. Roll with it – it’s only an outfit.

    It’s also subjective. For example, I abhor peak/mountain folded pocket squares as they are affected and antediluvian. But obviously you love them. It’s a matter of preference. The purple suit above would actually look great in “real life” and there is no such thing as a non-real world. It’s all real. Frank Galucci’s blue suit is also incredible and very “exciting” without peacocking. You really would think nothing more than what a great looking suit he is wearing of you saw it on the street. The point I am making is that these men are pushing the menswear agenda in diverse and compelling ways. The exact details and executions vary and that’s okay.

    Your tone is your tone and you should be true to your nature – even if your nature reads as overly critical and polarizing. However, a bit more admiration for these subjects’ own unique styling choices would be a welcome breeze of fresh air in a very stale room.

  9. Fred Anyona says:

    For some reason I only learnt of Pitti Uomo yesterday (Yes I have been living under a rock).
    I love the images and the diversity and being a young man of color, I definitely agree that the high color contrast suit would look amazing on anyone of darker complexion.
    The fashion and sense of style is very individualistic and I love the fact that men go all out and celebrate the diversity that comes with fashion.

  10. LemonStar says:

    Guy in khakis and pink jacket wins it. Great colours, really nice. Bananaman got it all wrong, on the other hand. Blue suit is THE suit there 🙂 And yes, uptight tone of report, as Trey said.

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