Pitti Uomo 88

Pitti Uomo 88 Street Style DO’s & DON’Ts

Just the other day Pitti Uomo 88 ended and as we did in previous years, it’s time to take a closer looks at some 2015 outfits:

Your tie should never peak our from underneath the vest

Your tie should never peak out from underneath the vest

Windowpane suits are great, and the combination of hat, Madras square and print tie works, though the shirt sleeves are too short and the tie is too long, because it should never show from underneath the vest, especially, when the bottom waistcoat button is undone.

White jacket with tie front tucked in, wide lapels on DB coat, khaki suti with short shirt sleeves

White jacket with tie front tucked in, wide lapels on DB coat, khaki suit with short shirt sleeves

In this picture, you can admire a very unusual color palette, and Pitti Uomo is always great to showcase colors that are not overly common in menswear. On the left we have an off white single breasted jacket with a black and white stripes shirt, mid grey trouser, and dark green paisley tie where the wide end is tucked in and the slim end dangles past the waistband.

In the middle, you see a double breasted jacket in olive green with off white slim pants and a light blue shirt. Who would have thought of combining those three solid colors together? The shirt would look better if more buttons were closed…

On the right, you have a great khaki suit with dark dotted knit tie, striped shirt, dark pocket square and plenty of wristbands. I prefer to show a bit of shirt sleeve cuff as outlined here.

Tie too long

Tie too long & vest too short

When you wear a tie that extends past your trousers waistband, the triangle points towards your testicles which is a bit vulgar. Also, when wearing suspenders, you should ideally skip the belt loops on your pants. Also, a vest should always cover your waistband, and double breasted coats should be worn buttoned. In this case, you can even see the shirt above the waistband of the trousers. A longer vest is a must have!

Sport Coat combination and off white raw silk suit

Sport Coat combination and off-white raw silk suit

Superb combination on the left with a blue summery checked jacket, gray pants, light blue shirt and bold striped knit tie. Likewise a great way to wear an off-white suit on the right.

Skinny Pants

Skinny Pants

Young men in Europe like their jackets short, their pants super slim and driver mocs always work. It’s certainly not a classic way to do things, but it is much better than shorts and polo shirt, and it’s good to see young men develop their sense of style.

Seersucker Suit with bold knit tie

Seersucker Suit with bold knit tie

Nice combination.

Safari Suit

Safari Suit

Safari suits are hardly seen anymore. Do wear it if you are in the tropics or if you want to catch attention.

Puff shoulders, belt loops without belt and tie that is rather long

Puff shoulders, belt loops without belt and tie that is rather long

The puffed shoulders are a matter of taste though in my experience most men consider them to be a bit effeminate, but again each to his own. Belt loops look better with a belt, and the tie length does not encourage the viewer to look into the wearer’s face, and therefore it is too long. Certainly and extravagant way to wear a pochette!

People at Pitti Uomo 88

People at Pitti Uomo 88

Sunglasses and beards are popular though in this picture the ensemble on the left looks the best. Coordinated color and pattern palette without going overboard – well done!

Panama Hat, stripes shirt, checked sport coat, off white slacks and printed red Madder Tie

Panama Hat, stripes shirt, checked sport coat, off-white slacks and printed red Madder Tie

Fantastic combination!

Outside Stefano Bemer

Outside Stefano Bemer

The 6×1 Kent silhouette is not too common anymore and in this example it is cut in a flattering way, unlike most 1980’s blazers. Edward Sexton on the right goes for the 4×1 Kent Fasson with a boutonniere, high collar, and collar pin – great picture!

Off white 3 piece suit, pastel green winchester shirt, Panama hat and self tie bow tie

Off white 3 piece suit, pastel green Winchester shirt, Panama hat and self-tie bow tie

Wonderful outfit of a true dandy. Off-white three piece suit with pastel green shirt, rakishly tied a bow tie and wide brim hat – bravo!

Madras is great for warm weather, but if you wear a tie, do it properly or skip it entirely. This just looks sloppy, and Fabio Attanasio would agree.

Lino in Blue

Lino in Blue

Lino from Al Bazar loves blue.

Light Green summer suit with two boutonnieres

Light Green summer suit with two boutonnieres

0 boutonnieres = average, 1 boutonniere = style , 2 boutonnieres = trying to be stylish.

Adjusting the tie - photo by Guerre for Mr Mag

Adjusting the tie

Very nice color and pattern combination.

In action

In action

Pitti through the lens of Guerre

Pitti through the lens of Guerre

The suit on the left has a beautiful color, and the tie works too, but the hat is too close in color to the suit, and DB jackets should be worn buttoned.

Gapping Collar and Long Tie

Gapping Collar and Long Tie

Gapping collars are never flattering, and neither are overly long ties.

Extremely Short Jacket photo by Guerre for Mr Mag

Extremely Short Jacket

Jackets have become shorter over the years, but this is barely longer than a vest – not recommended.

DB off white suit

DB off white suit

Two splendid outfits – do copy them and add you own sense of style!

Colorful outfit

Colorful outfit – Il Bisonte Wanny di Filippo

Il Bisonte has been among the Peacocks every season in recent history – don’t try to copy him.

Color, texture and hats at Pitti Uomo 88 - photo by Pitti Uomo

Color, texture and hats at Pitti Uomo 88 – Photo by Pitti Uomo

Pitti is always colorful but outside of Pitti a bright red suit is never a good idea. On the other hand, mixing blue and brown is!

Color at Pitti Uomo

Color at Pitti Uomo

Unusual colors in menswear can work if you keep the rest classic. Only experiment with it if you know what you are doing.

Bold sunglasses & strong color contrast Photo by Pitti Uomo, Enrique Labriola

Bold sunglasses & strong color contrast Photo by Pitti Uomo, Enrique Labriola

Bold outfits catch the attention of photographers and others. Bear that in mind before you dress.

Blue photo by Guerre for Mr Mag

Blue Photo by Guerre for Mr Mag

Five different ways to wear blue – what is your favorite?

Photo Credits: by Guerre MR MagazinePitti Uomo, Enrique Labriola, Beyond Fabric

Article Name
Pitti Uomo 88 2015 Street Style DO's & DON'Ts
Get Inspired by the street style at Pitti Uomo 88 so you can create with unique spring summer outfits & learn what to do and not to do.
Gentleman's Gazette
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16 replies
  1. Professor Lee says:

    Am I correct that Lino is actually wearing two neckties in his photo? Or is it a custom tie split into two fabrics? I see two embroidered sevens, indicating two ties though the knot does not appear huge.

  2. Danny says:

    Most of these outfits won’t stand the test of time due to the fact they are merely a fad. There were only a handful of pictures I saw above that were classic outfits that an everyday person could wear.

  3. Phineas says:

    The fearful comments about “clowns” “fads” blah blah blah show a lack of freedom and sense of play. Sorry if I’m coming of critical. The whole idea of the blog is to expose the reader to some alternative ways to approach the “uniform.” For damn near #00 years we me have been stuck with the same tired options. Loosen up from time to time, add a little color, hell, wear the beads on your wrist. I first went to Milano about 15 years ago. As a New Yorker I “thought” I knew a few things about style and personal expression. Men in Italy, London,, etc understood what it means to really enjoy their clothing, and have for centuries. We americans could learn a few things. Oh, and the icing on the cake: Women love it when you dress beautifully.

  4. boswell says:

    Too many men trying far too hard. In their endeavors to look different they have all ended up looking the same (especially the no-socks schtick). The one picture that took my fancy was the one with the guy in the paperboy cap standing near the man in the off-white double breasted suit. The man on left is wearing one heck of a jacket.

  5. Satbir Gill says:

    What I would really need to see and understand is the safari jacket. I wish there is a guide about the adventurous jacket which instills not only style but some sort of freedom seeking heroism in it. Remember Sir Roger Moore in the Man with the Golden Gun??

  6. Seb says:

    Reading these comments is so frustrating. The comments of “clowns,” and similar remarks are just unbelievable. These pictures represent Italian culture. How can people not appreciate the meticulous attention to detail, flattering proportions and fit, carefully thought out colour combinations and charming accessories. You can continue to wear your boring black suits and blend in with the crowd. These outfits show expression and personality and in my opinion represent the epitome of great style.

    Also, I know as a blogger you have an opinion but I disagree with so many of your remarks here. “Belt loops look better with a belt, and the tie length does not encourage the viewer to look into the wearer’s face, and therefore it is too long.” I completely disagree with this. In my opinion a belt ruins a suit, and the length of the tie is subjective to the wearer. Thom Browne states that ties should be tucked into the trouser for example. Does that make Thom Browne wrong? The man who subtly changed how men dress. I don’t agree with comments like “you should” and “it looks better” as its all a matter of opinion.

    Anyway, rant over and I don’t mean to disrespect anyone but just wanted to make my point.

    • Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Seb, nobody, says you have to wear a belt. Suspenders are great, or side adjusters. But if your pants have belt loops a belt looks better. If you read a bit here you will learn that today anyone can dress in any way shape or form, however if you are interested in classic men’s clothing and how it evolved historically, a tie is supposed to flatter and not accentuate your crotch.
      If you prefer to highlight your crotch, go for it by all means, but then this is probably not the best website for you because we are about classic men’s style – sometimes with a twist.
      Thom Browne did not invent putting a tie into one’s trouser, and even though he has a following he is by no means as big as Ralph Lauren, who mostly adheres to more classic standards.

      As a side note, most people who run a website feel disrespected by the word blogger ;).

      • Seb says:

        Sven, I find a belt a strange accessory to be honest. I am of the belief that you should buy trousers that fit your waist. If you look at the majority of these gentlemen, they are indeed beltless. It looks better in my opinion. And, that’s the point, it’s an opinion. Also, I hardly think wearing a tie past your waist “accentuates” your crotch. I see you mention that the site is about classic mens style. So is that classic American? British? Italian style? They are all different. Are you seeing that these gentlemen’s suits aren’t classic in your opinion? I also never said Thom Browne invented tucking your tie into your trousers. I merely said that’s his style when he wears a suit. I run a fashion website also, and I wouldn’t be offended by the word blogger, but I apologise if you were.

        • Armando says:

          Interesting debate here, and respectful for a change. If I may, I also think saying this guys are clowns and show offs is very short sighted? I believe this creative and out of the box expressions are the side of innovation which make Italians and europeans leaders in fashion, if they only wore black, navy and khaki suits, we wouldn’t have a lot of liitle details that have advanced in men fashion.

          On the otherbhand, I kind of agree with Sven about some clothing ground rules. I mean, you can wear however you like but even if I wouldn’t there to “correct” someone who buttons up the bottom button in a three or two button jacket, I would still believe he is an unaducated men in suits. As for the tie, I would say somethings are beyond taste like color combinations in terms of color theory and simetrics, so wearing the tie up to length tomyour belt is to please simetry of your total look, rather than pleasing you or anyone else.

          And Seb for I guy who says not to agree with comments like “you should” and ” it looks better” your comments on wearing belts contradict your point, cause in your worlds men “should” buy trousers that fit and belts “ruin” a suit.

          • Seb says:

            Hi Armando,

            Thanks for your input. With regards to your last paragraph, I would just like to clear something up. I said that in “my opinion” belts ruin suits. I didn’t say you categorically shouldn’t wear belts with suits. With reference to my comment about buying suit trousers that fit your waist, this isn’t a style point, this is just common sense. I really don’t agree when people say “you should do this” when it comes to fashion, and that was my overriding point.

            Style is subjective, and what one person likes, someone else wont. That’s the beauty of fashion. I will agree with you however on your comment of doing up every button of a suit. But what’s interesting is that there are no rules in fashion. The reason you believe that suits shouldn’t have every button done up is because it is the social norm. For example, if when two and three button suits were first invented, all the buttons were done up and that was the social norm, then would you say that those that didn’t do all their buttons up were uneducated? My point, even know I’ve probably done a terrible job getting it across, is, how something should be worn is a subjective view, usually constructed by social normality.

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