This is something a lot of subscribers have asked about and we’re happy to oblige. In my opinion, this should be the minimal shoe collection of every man out there! No, just kidding! Honestly, I have a lot of shoes and I got a lot of them for free sent by companies. If I had to buy each and every shoe, probably my collection would be a lot smaller.
The second one is a hand grade from Crockett and Jones, it has broguing on it which is unusual, it’s a hand grade model which means it’s higher in quality and it has a silver buckle, could be worn casually and with a business suit.
The third one is a slightly darker tan with a 1/2 brogue medallion, it’s from Ace Marks, also with a silver buckle.
Now we’re talking double monks. This is a dark chocolate brown one with a cap toe from Shoe Passion, it’s Goodyear welted, I think made in Spain.
This black double monk strap from Ace Marks is blake rapid stitched with silver buckles and it goes well with outfits such as formal business suits that usually call for black oxfords.
The other monk strap is likewise from Ace Marks and has a nice oxblood or burgundy red color, likewise silver buckles, and I really like the last, it really works well for my foot and so I like to combine it with a lot of different outfits.
Black Oxford Shoes
This is the very first pair of black oxford I had in my collection and I still have it today. I bought it used, it was Church’s and at that time, it was a very high-end quality model. The cool part about it is that it has a linen lining rather than a leather lining. I always found that to be more comfortable than all leather. This shoe has been resold many times and reheeled and you can see the leather is a little more cracking simply because it has a lot of wear on it.
The next black oxford is likewise a cap toe, I had a rubber sole added for the rain, it’s from Cheaney which at the time was part of Church’s but it’s a very old shoe so it’s not the same Cheaney as you know today. Both the Church and the Cheaney were Goodyear welted and made in England.
This shoe here is made in Spain. It’s a little more contemporary, it’s still a cap toe oxford but I’m wearing it with shoelaces from Fort Belvedere and you can see there’s a slightly different cut. I think it’s made by Andrew Lock.
Next up is a quarter brogue with just some broguing on the cap toe, it’s very subtle that makes it a little less formal. I think it’s a very nice business shoe, has a nice last, it’s made by Pediwear and Goodyear welt in England.
The next style I like quite a bit. It is a half brogue, meaning you have a cap toe with a full medallion brogue and you’ve broguing on the sides, but it’s not a full brogue which would be a wingtip on top. I used to have a full black wingtip in my collection but I never wore it because the broguing is too casual and the black is too formal and so I just donated it.
This one here is Blake rapid stitch made in LA by Ace Marks. This one here is a black whole cut from Ace Marks oxford last again blake rapid, made in Italy.
First, this chocolate brown one. I think it was made by Loake, it is kind of an unusual style with a medallion on top but it’s not quite classic, yet it still works well with lots of outfits.
This is a Blake rapid shoe made in Italy by Paul Evans, it has a very nice patina, deep brown, hand burnished, but the last is slightly different. It’s a little round and not quite classic, a little more modern. Brown comes in thousands of different shades so I always try to get shoes that are slightly different because that enables me to create better outfits.
This half brogue Oxford is made in Italy by Ace marks, it’s blake rapid stitched and I like this kind of in-between chocolate brown and medium brown color.
This was the first Brown Oxford I had. It was likewise a Church’s with a linen lining and you can see, it’s quite beat-up and I rarely wear it anymore, maybe if the weather is really bad outside or if I get sentimental but I don’t want to give it up because it was the first brown oxford in my collection.
Next up is more of a quarter brogue in the front with some broguing on the sides. It’s from Beckett Simonon, I think it’s made in Portugal, Goodyear welted, it has a really nice last, the leather is quite hard so breaking them in takes a long time.
This one is made out of white buckskin. It is a full brogue oxford but it works because it’s white and bright. I wear it with seersucker outfits and sometimes I change the color of the shoelaces depending on what tie I am wearing so it all goes quite well together. This one is from Shoe Passion and it was made in Spain.
This one here is also highly unusual it’s a dark forest green oxford full brogue from Scarosso, made in Italy, blake rapid construction, and I like it because it’s different and I can wear it especially with seersuckers or summery outfits for when I want to create an interesting contrast that is dark yet unusual.
I don’t have a single black one in my collection. Instead, I have a dark chocolate brown one here from Allen Edmonds, it’s a long wing tip, a nice chocolate brown, I think it’s German leather, made by Allen Edmonds. It was their presidential line which was a higher grade than their regular shoes. I combine them with a pair of shoelaces from Fort Belvedere.
Next up is a pair of chocolate deer suede shoes from Saint Crispin’s, they were custom made, and I put in some colored shoelaces because it works well with the brown tones. I had this shoe in my collection for a very long time and it has traveled many times.
Here, you can probably see one of the most versatile colors in menswear which is an oxblood shoe or dark burgundy, this one is Goodyear welted, made in Spain, but the last is quite long and elegant, more like what you would expect from a French shoe. I think the brand is Union Cobbler.
This is a brown Norwegian toe welt shoe from Mannina in Florence, made in Italy, and I bought it many years ago. It’s kind of a medium brown and it works with a lot of things.
Next up is a full brogue in a medium brown, hand burnished from Ace Marks, blake rapid stitch, made in Italy. I like it because the patina and the last works well for my foot.
This shoe is a little more unusual, it has kind of a woven leather structure combined with a wingtip, it’s made by Allen Edmonds in a beautiful kind of burnished chestnut brown. I combined it with burgundy shoelaces from Fort Belvedere, Goodyear welted, made in the USA.
Next up is a Goodyear welted derby with a strong patina and color changes from the cap to the rest of the leather. I like the look of it. The leather is not the best quality. The brand is called Lussoti and I do not even know where they’re made, they don’t even say it on their shoes, it is just something that’s showed up in the mail.
This pair here was the very first pair of quality men’s dress shoes I bought. It’s from Ludwig Reiter and It’s Goodyear welted, has been resold many times and if I had to do it all over again, it would not be the first style of shoe I bought but back then, it cost me about a hundred euros which was a great bargain for a then-new shoe. So I’m still having them in my collection which is true evidence that quality lasts and the cost per wear is way low.
This shoe I bought years ago at Nordstrom Rack, it’s a spectator from Allen Edmonds, made in the US, Goodyear welted but it’s on a quite elegant Belair last. While I like these more modern lasts from Allen Edmonds, I think it almost put them out of business so they went back to producing their classic Park Avenue one. I don’t think you can find this style anymore today.
Next up is a green derby shoe, it’s an elegant French style last, it’s made in Portugal, Goodyear welted by Carlos Santos. Obviously, this kind of olive green color is unusual. The tip is darker so you can wear it with darker suits. It’s just a shoe that you can wear to a cocktail party or to events where you don’t want to be flashy yet different.
Loafers are difficult for me because they are very slim heeled and oftentimes, they’re too wide and I slip out.
These ones here are olive green with brown tassels from Scarosso, also made in Italy, Blake stitched or Blake rapid stitched, I’m not quite sure. I like them because they’re different, they’re perfect for summer outfits, and I wear them quite a bit.
These medium brown penny loafers are very classic, they have a nice hand burnished patina, made in Italy, Blake rapid by Ace Marks.
Now, these chocolate brown penny loafers are slightly different. They’re from a company named Founders, they’re made in Italy, and they’re a lot stiffer and thicker than the others. I think they are more on the American style even though they’re made in Italy.
Now here’s a shoe that is quite beat-up and if you haven’t already noticed, some of the other shoes are not in perfect shape either, we’re preparing for a shoe polishing series and we need before-and-after examples, so that’s what we’re doing here. This shoe is made out of cordovan leather, Japanese cordovan, it has tassels, it’s great for travel because you can slip out. The color is very versatile, its Goodyear welted, and it’s made in China, and it’s very stiff as you can see. It’s not like the Italian shoes that are very flexible, the brand is Meermin which are related to Carmina yet these are made in China, not in Spain.
Here’s the very first evening shoe I ever had. It’s made in Austria by Ludwig Reiter and Austria has a fantastic black tie and white tie culture so they wear it a lot. You can see the sole is quite thin, it’s not thick, and it’s made out of patent leather, there’s no cap toe and the rounded last is typically Viennese.
The one you can see here is a slightly more progressive version, it’s a nice last, it’s quite an elegant patent leather, again, no cap toe and you can see these are wide Fort Belvedere grosgrain shoelaces, this is actually a prototype from Fort Belvedere that we made and who knows? maybe we run them into production if there’s enough demand for it.
Likewise, this is another prototype from us, a classic opera pump with a bow and a deep cut out with an elegant last, I wear them usually with white tie and sometimes also with black tie depending on my mood.
First up, there is this kind of salmon red boat shoe from Sebago that used a horween leather and I like it because it’s an unusual color.
Also, I have this old weathered boat shoe from Eastland likewise with horween leather in navy and green, I still like it, I still wear it even though it has this weathered used look.
Another interesting summer sneaker for beach vacations is this one here, it comes in a cream or off-white, it’s made by PF Flyers and it was part of a vintage collection they created a couple of years ago. I like it quite a bit because it has that vintage look and that’s a new shoe and it’s quite casual.
Next up are some alpargatas which are made in Majorca. It’s a u2 sole with some rubber, it’s a very lightweight one, I bought it from a maker in Majorca and it’s a very traditional shoe there. It’s nice in the summer or if you are at the beach. If you want kind of a stylish casual alternative to flip-flops, this is what you need.
This one here is very similar to the alpargatas, it was made by the same guy, he used some Thai silk with leather and rubber that’s like vulcanized similar to a car tire, so it’s very hard-wearing and it has a low heel, not much structure, but they are very airy and great for summer casual outfits.
I know some won’t believe it but I also have flip-flops in my collection, after all, I’m Brazilian. My father’s from Brazil and when I am at the beach there, I wear flip-flops. To work out or play racquetball, I have this pair of Asics shoes that I like quite a bit and I have insoles in there which are much thicker and better for you. So if you have a sport like squash or racquetball or anything that’s hard on your joints, the insole will definitely help.
For other workouts, I just use regular tennis shoes just like this one here from Nike which they sent to me, quite lightweight, very breathable, not much structure and support in the heel or toe though.