Are Gurkha Trousers & Shorts Timeless, or Just a Trend?

If you’re like us, you’ve noticed various trends throughout menswear in recent years, so whether it’s wearing smartwatches with classic outfits or different ways to wear a necktie, there are always trends going on. One particular clothing item that seems to be rapidly gaining popularity is the Gurkha trouser. So, is it another trend or truly timeless?

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Gurkha trousers quickly become a favorite at events like Pitti Uomo, and they’re often seen on various menswear influencers. While this trouser might have a particularly strong interest in European countries, its reach is now worldwide.

These pants are not just a recent trend where someone just changed up an old design, these actually have a lot of history. And besides the unique history, there are a few style details that you really need to look for when identifying a pair of Gurkha trousers. Let’s dive in and see if these pants have timeless appeal or if they’re going to be more of a trend, like pants worn by MC Hammer.

What is a Gurkha Trouser?

There are several distinct features of Gurkha trousers. First off, they’re typically pleated. We’ve talked about pleated trousers before on the channel. You can have them on suit pants, on chinos, even on jeans, but Gurkha trousers are really defined by having pleats.

Typically speaking, you’ll see Gurkha trousers with a strong double pleat. Whether that’s inward or outward facing, it doesn’t really matter but, sometimes, you’ll find ones with a single pleat. You can also find them in a less common appearance – also known as the “kissing pleat.” Regardless of pleat style, you’ll usually see something pretty dramatic as, after all, flat fronts wouldn’t qualify as Gurkha trousers.

Just above the pleats, you will see a single or a double extended waistband, which can be used to tighten or loosen the trouser. This is typically done with a buckle, but you can also find them in button varieties as well or they might even use side adjusters.

This extended waistband will start all the way over at the left hip and extend all the way over to the right. You’ll also typically notice that the waistband is much wider than a typical pair of dress pants that you’ll find at a department store. All this detailing makes it look like you actually have a built-in cummerbund onto your trouser waistband. Just make sure that the pleats of the cummerbund are up.

These design features allow the trouser to be worn a little bit more casually, even though they typically have a much higher rise.

Overall, the details work quite well in order to give the visual appearance of a very high and tight waist. Also, because the rise is a lot higher, it also makes the legs look longer, it makes the gentleman look taller. This usually tapers down to a nice, narrow opening at the hem and can feature plain bottoms or cuffs.

When it comes to Gurkha trousers, you could easily make the reference to a traditional Black Tie or even White Tie silhouette as it’s a similar level of elegance that’s achieved, but this time, for day wear.

Like many other types of trousers, you can find these in a much shorter length, and they’re called Gurkha shorts. Points for creativity. But, hey, I guess it’ll make it easier to shop for them. And as you can imagine, Gurkha shorts are about the same as Gurkha trousers. The only difference is they’re shorts and not pants. The only difference between the shorts and the trousers are that the shorts typically have a much wider opening compared to the trousers, which are a little bit more tapered.

Gurkha shorts are certainly a very bold style choice, but you can see how it resembles many of the shorts of classic menswear.

History of Gurkha Trousers

Like many things in menswear, Gurkha trousers have a military origin. These treasures were based off of the trousers that were part of the military uniform in the Nepalese military, found in the Kingdom of Gurkha, in the early 1800s.

The British military, during the East India Trading Company conflict of 1814, battled with the kingdom. Despite Nepalese soldiers being outnumbered six to one, their knowledge of the terrain made them a formidable force against the British military. Their resilience and bravery in the battlefield won the respect of the British and, eventually, a peace treaty was signed.

What made this treaty unique was that it allowed the British military to add Gurkha soldiers into their ranks. And this is still the case today, as Gurkha soldiers are known as having one of the most elite training programs in the entire world.

Strangely, the Gurkha trouser is actually the perfect blend of this as it was a trouser that was designed for the British military, but it features many elements of the Nepalese people. The cut of the trouser was made to be a little bit fuller, and pleats were added for better ease of movement.

Another element of cultural fusion can be seen in the waistband. As we previously mentioned, the high and wide waistband is very reminiscent of a cummerbund, and this makes perfect sense.

As British forces were in the East Indies at the time, they adopted the local customs of tying a sash around their waist. At this time, it was considered to be good manners to keep your waistband covered, so sashes were refined into waistcoats and, eventually, cummerbunds.

During the 1800s, the British adopted the cummerbund as a way to stay cool in the warm climate. Then, this elegant silhouette was combined into a trouser and cummerbund waistband concoction.

What about the belt buckles on the sides, you might ask? Well, this was a typical military innovation. The Gurkha-style waistband allowed soldiers to keep their trousers up without needing a pair of suspenders or a belt. This is something that soldiers found to be particularly useful as they got a lot of control over the fit in the very hot and humid climate.

Since these were special to hot climates, believe it or not, Gurkha shorts were actually invented first, with trousers coming later. Considering the hot climates where they were to be worn, plus the military application, you can imagine the early colors for different shades of khaki and olive drab.

Are Gurkha Pants Formal or Casual?

Throughout the years, not much has changed when it comes to Gurkha trouser DNA, but they have become more sartorially inclined, as we are going to find out.

One of the biggest questions regarding Gurkha trousers is: Where do they fit on the formality scale? As always, being the helpful guy he is, Raphael is going to teach you more in our formality scale guide.

When it comes to looking at Gurkha trousers, the answer is: It depends, but they can be made more formal, depending on the fabric that they’re made from. For example, Gurkha is made of silk, linen, and cotton; it really brings out a more casual summertime feel. If you choose a pair of Gurkhas in a very thick and heavy flannel, it might really dress it up, and also, the fabric properties and the weight of the fabric can really lend itself to a sharp crease, which could also lean more formal. But, keep in mind that the context around fabric and color are going to be some things that we’re going to look at when choosing a pair going forward.

How Can I Wear Gurkha Trousers?

As a separate trouser

Because of the unique details of a pair of Gurkha trousers, it’s not ideal to make them for a suit. Because the waistband detail has so much going on, they don’t really look good underneath a suit jacket, and they’re really sort of a statement piece where you want to pay attention to those unique details, so they look best by themselves. This makes them a great candidate for odd jacket and trouser combinations, and they work particularly well in warm weather. After all, that’s where they come from.

These trousers are also a great option if you want to get rid of the belt and suspenders from your outfit. The fastening mechanism is already built into the trouser, giving you a more streamlined look.

With a shorter jacket

Pairing them with a shorter jacket can also look really nice, as it balances out the nature of the higher-waisted trouser, so think of things like a Schott leather jacket or a Harrington jacket. These choices are great for the transitional seasons as having a roomier cut will still allow you to have airflow, but it still might be cool enough for a jacket.

Underneath, we would recommend a turtleneck or a long sleeve polo shirt. When it comes to warmer climates, the Gurkha trouser can be paired with a whole bunch of different classic menswear pieces.

With breezy shirts

Light and breezy Cuban color shirts are a great pairing partner, lending a bit to a vintage aesthetic. Short sleeve polo shirts are also a welcome addition, and we’ve even seen them look good with t-shirts. And if you need a little bit more versatility, why not add an overshirt in cotton or linen?

Another point when it comes to hot weather is to look for a pair of Gurkha trousers with a looser fit. This will promote airflow, keeping you feeling cool. This also might be something to keep in mind if you have larger thighs like someone like me.

With boots

And when it comes to footwear, Gurkha trousers really give you a large range of options as well. You can keep things on the more dressy end of the spectrum, like a pair of derbies or wing tips, or you can pick something rugged and utilitarian, like a pair of boots. Since Gurkha trousers have a rich military history, a pair of boots look just right.

With sneakers

For a more relaxed look, you could go with a pair of leather sneakers. Hey, if you had a pair of Gurkhas in linen, you could even go with something like a canvas sneaker. And if you have any questions or want guidance when it comes to dress sneakers, check out our separate guide. Essentially, dress sneakers are not gym shoes.

Unsurprisingly, Gurkha shorts are to be worn in warmer climates. Not only do they look out of place with winter fabrics, but also, if it’s cold, it’s just not practical, even if there’s one guy in town who wears shorts while he’s plowing the snow.

With patterns

And since Gurkha shorts are a little bit more laid back than the trousers, it’s great to embrace the more casual side of your wardrobe. We’ll reiterate bringing in your summer prints, your florals, camp collar shirts, polo shirts, and T-shirts.

How Should I Not Wear Gurkha Trousers?

With dress shoes

As far as footwear is concerned, go with loafers or canvas sneakers, espadrilles or boat shoes. However, we are going to recommend you don’t wear your dress socks with Gurkha shorts, and it’s just not a good look. And one more thing, leave the flip-flops at home. But, we’ve said that a few times already.

At this point, things are looking pretty positive when it comes to Gurkha trousers, but there are a few things you want to keep in mind before you add a pair to your wardrobe.

With bold patterns

Given the pleats and the busy waistband, it’s probably best to pick a plain material. Avoid oversized window panes or bold check patterns.

Instead, stick with a very simple, solid color and leave the exploring to picking a unique fabric. Pick a pair of Gurkhas in linen, cotton, a linen-cotton blend, flannel, or tweed. These all lend themselves to being perfect for Gurkha trousers, and it’ll add just a little bit more visual interest by picking a unique cloth.

BONUS: Consider Fit When Wearing Gurkha Trousers

Another thing to consider is how a pair of Gurkha trousers will fit you. Believe it or not, Gurkha trousers can be quite tricky to get right and, you know, here at GG, we’re all about a good fit. If they’re too baggy, you can look like you’re wearing a pair of paper bags, and, on the other end, well, no one wants to look like a sausage.

Keep in mind that you might want to get a pair with the waistband a little bit bigger than normal because you have the ability to ratchet it down. But, be careful that you don’t get something four sizes too big, otherwise you’ll have bunching around the waistband, and that doesn’t look good. 

With pleated pants, you typically want to add a cuff to the bottom, as it will add visual weight. This will also help the pants to drape nicely, and it helps with holding a crease.

Timeless or Trend?

As we circle back to the very first question that we asked here, I think that you’ll find that we will call a pair of Gurkha trousers a timeless piece.

They are a recent favorite of the Pitti peacocks, but they have a rich history that goes back, and the design is still the same today. Even if it seems like they’re trending right now, the reality is it’s just a resurgence in popularity. It’s not a new thing.

Recommended Brands

If we’ve inspired you to look into Gurkha trousers further, here are some brands that we can recommend.

On the more affordable end, brands like J. Peterman, Studio suits, Grand Le Mar, and Craftsman are a good place to start.

A price range above would be a brand like Todd Snyder and Lucan Fashion.

On the higher end, Luca Rubinacci is a huge fan of them; thus, his brand, Rubinacci, carries different styles.

You can also find them in various Singapore tailoring houses, such as Yeossal and Callaro, as it’s a popular style over there.

Of course, there are so many other makers out there, but we can’t list them all.

If you know other good brands, please let us know in the comments below! And if you have a pair of Gurkha trousers or shorts, let us know how you style them, too!

Outfit Rundown

In today’s outfit, I’m wearing some pieces that embrace the workwear and military nature of a pair of Gurkha trousers. I’m wearing a brown tweed Spier & MacKay overshirt. This has multiple pockets and is a favorite during those transitional months.

Underneath, I’m wearing a light gray Spier & MacKay button-down collar polo shirt. This is a really nice casual piece. If I wanted to take the overshirt off, it works well with the Gurkha trousers.

My Gurkha trousers are from J. Peterman. They’re slightly darker than British khaki, and it’s a really nice heavy twill material, which leads to a very robust and durable pair of pants. Because of this durable nature, I have them paired with my trusty Wolverine 1000-Mile boots, embracing again, the military nature and heritage.

My socks are a pair of blue, heavy cotton socks. These are a prototype for more cool stuff happening at Fort Belvedere. The watch on my wrist is a Tudor GMT Pepsi. This is a great watch for me as I can keep track of our vendors in multiple time zones, all around the world.

These socks aren’t out yet, but if you want to check out some of the other cool new products we have at Fort Belvedere, like our new collar bars and some new sock colors – bright blue and yellow, khaki and navy – check those out in the shop here.