The Schott Perfecto is the definitive example of an American motorcycle jacket, and one of the most famous articles of mid-20th century men’s fashion. It’s adored by rockstars, bikers, and many men worldwide–and it’s often counterfeited! So, is the genuine article worth splurging on? We’ve got the answers!
In many ways, the Schott Perfecto is in a class all on its own. After all, what menswear article of clothing is more classically cool than one made famous by the likes of Marlon Brando or Bruce Springsteen? And, of course, we can’t forget Lou Reed.
But what if you aren’t a motorcycle rider, a rocker, or even a movie star–could the Schott Perfecto still be the right jacket for you? Well, in this installment of our ongoing Is It Worth It? review series, we’re going to find out.
Note: This review is not sponsored.
In case you missed it, we’ve covered similar jackets before, including offerings from Barbour and Belstaff. If you need ideas on how to style your motorcycle or other casual jackets, we have some outfit ideas, too!
History of the Schott Perfecto
Shortly after the invention of the motorcycle in the late 19th Century, unfortunate riders quickly invented something else: their first motorcycle crashes. To protect their torsos and arms from road rash, riders would wear durable jackets and coats, and these coats were made from heavy canvas, leather, and wool.
So, in many ways, the original motorcycle jacket was not intended to be a style icon. These jackets are practical and essential pieces of protective gear. And then, the Schott Perfecto entered the market in 1928, the first purpose-built motorcycle jacket intended to be practical and stylish.
The jacket was designed by Russian-American garment maker Irving Schott who, along with his brother Jack, owned Schott NYC. Schott NYC was founded in New York City by the brothers in 1913 and is often credited as being the first company to sew zippers onto jackets, but it was the Perfecto that made Schott famous.
The jacket was intentionally designed with the needs of motorcycle riders in mind. Made from heavy, tight-grained horsehide for added protection, with wool lining, and an asymmetrical front with snap closure lapels to help keep out the cold when riding, and with zippered and snap pockets to ensure that the rider didn’t lose anything when tearing down the highway at those high speeds.
The Schott Perfecto also had a lancer front, essentially an overlapping double-breast construction. This was intended for improved insulation, and reminiscent of the uniform jackets worn by lancers. The lancers were a type of cavalry unit most active in the 18th into the mid-19th Century.
The military connotation may have inspired the famous shoulder straps often called epaulettes, seen on the original Schott Perfecto.
When coming up with a name for his new jacket, Irving Schott allegedly got the name from his favorite cigar roll type – the Perfecto. These consisted of a rounded head roll, closed on both ends with a bulge in the middle.
The original run of Schott Perfecto jackets were sold at Harley-Davidson stores for about five dollars and fifty cents, or about seventy-five dollars in today’s money. Most buyers were regular or professional motorcycle riders, so the Schott Perfecto remained largely a practical garment.
During World War II, the manufacturing of the Schott Perfecto was paused. This was done so that the company could focus on making leather jackets for the United States military, but in the late 1940s, Schott introduced the Perfecto 613, known as the “One Star” for the eponymous star added to each of the shoulder straps.
In the early 1950s, the Perfecto 618 was introduced nearly identical to the 613, but this time with no decorative stars.
In 1953, the Schott Perfecto skyrocketed to fame when Marlon Brando wore it in The Wild One, portraying Johnny Strabler, the leader of an outlaw motorcycle gang in California. Interestingly, Brando is probably wearing a model 618 in the film; the stars were added to make it look more like a 613.
In fact, some internet sleuths also believe that Brando isn’t even wearing a Perfecto jacket, but is actually wearing a replica made by Durable.
Even if it wasn’t a real Perfecto, it sure looked like one, and sales skyrocketed, and then, precipitously declined as both the film and the jacket were banned in school systems in both North America and in Great Britain. But as other popular actors like James Dean adopted the Perfecto, Schott NYC had to expand his factory to keep up with the demand.
It was clear that the Perfecto would remain as an abiding symbol of both youth culture and rebellion, joining blue jeans as one of the most iconic and enduring fashion icons of the mid 20th Century.
Although, the Perfecto was considerably more expensive than jeans. It retailed at the time for around $50. That’s equal to about $515 today. A movie ticket might have cost just 50 cents, but, I guess, leather jackets have always been expensive.
In 1975, the Schott factory was moved from Manhattan’s Lower East Side to a new facility in Union, New Jersey. This is around the same time that rockers like The Ramones could be seen wearing the Perfecto.
The 80s, 90s, and early 2000s saw a revival in the popularity of the Perfecto as affluent urban and suburbanites embraced motorcycling as a hobby, and naturally, they wanted to look the part. These “yuppie bikers” are almost as closely associated with the Perfecto as Marlon Brando.
In 2013, Schott NYC celebrated its 100th anniversary and to this day, it’s still run by third- and fourth-generation members of the Schott family. Jason Schott, COO and grandson of the founder, is largely the public face of the company.
You’re just as likely to see it worn by pop stars, musicians, and celebrities, and many people who have never ridden a motorcycle in their lives, as you are to see it worn by actual motorcyclists.
Perfecto Varieties (A General Overview)
Schott lists over a dozen motorcycle jackets that are labeled as Perfecto. We’re not going to fully discuss them all, because some differ quite greatly from the style and design of the classic Perfecto, but we will give you a good idea of the range of Perfecto jackets that are available.
Also, please note that the prices quoted are from the Schott Perfecto American website. Prices in terms of sale will vary for third-party retailers, and Schott products can cost more outside of the United States.
Model 613
While the 613 has changed through the years it still has the iconic star, asymmetrical zipper, and snap lapels, but the modern lining is a 5.5 ounce insulated quilted nylon poly, and the leather is a matte steer hide.
Model 613H
The 613H is an effort to get back to the original 613 roots. This is made from horsehide, but essentially is otherwise the same as the base model.
Model 613S
This has a slimmer fit. It’s also available in horsehide.
Model P613S
Then, we have the P613S made from extremely heavy weighted chromexcel steer hide, which is very rigid that develops a unique tonal patina because of its grease content. This is available in both black and burgundy.
Model 519
The model 519 offers a more streamlined silhouette.
Model 618
Just like in the past, the 618 is almost exactly like the 613. It has no stars on the shoulder straps and the snaps have Schott embossed on their faces. The 618 is also available in brown, or also in a horsehide variety. This version is noticeably slimmer around the waist, and Schott even recommends ordering this one a size up.
Model 619
Closely related to the 618 is the 619. Currently, this model is only available in brown and this is made from lightweight full aniline naked cowhide, which has a soft and buttery hand.
Model 625
The 625 is another 618 variant. This features a D-pocket with a vertical zipper closure on the lower left front. As you can see, Schott offers many versions of the classic Perfecto and with subtle variations.
Model PER70
The PER70 model is hand-distressed to appear even more vintage.
There are models that deviate even more deliberately from the classic Perfecto, like the P213. This strips away additional detailing for a clean sleek and more modern moto jacket look, or the similar PER22 made from buffalo leather.
Our Review Model: The Perfecto 118
The 118 has all the iconic features of the original 618: an asymmetrical main zipper, snap-down, lapels zippered sleeve cuffs, an attached belt, three outside zippered pockets, a flapped coin pocket, and a left side interior breast pocket made from drum dyed hand-cut, heavyweight full aniline cowhide, also sourced in the USA.
It’s also referred to as naked cowhide. It has a slightly softer hand than the steer hide of the 618. It is a very clean matte finish lined with a 5.5 ounce fixed nylon poly quilt. It’s cut to be a more adaptable fit.
The Regular is slightly longer in the front at 26 inches, and it has a slightly bigger waist. It also comes at a long length of 28 inches. That adds one inch to the sleeve length as well.
The 118 is the model that we’ll be reviewing today, but note that it doesn’t come with stars. So, like Marlon Brando, you have to add them yourself, if you want them.
With the basic types of the Schott Perfecto and general features out of the way, let’s consider how materials, construction, and features set this jacket apart from its competition.
Materials
Schott NYC constantly touts the quality of the leather that they use in their jackets, emphasizing that it is drum-dyed with pure aniline dye – meaning that the leather has been fully immersed and tumbled in a dyeing vat. This is intended to produce a consistent and even color, and employs both vegetable and chrome tanned hides depending on the jacket.
However, other than highlighting their relationship with the Horween Leather Company, Schott NYC does not provide a full list of their leather suppliers, although they’ve stated on social media that some other tanneries are located in the United States and in Italy.
That being said, for each of their jackets, Schott NYC does go into considerable detail on their jacket’s webpage, detailing in the overview section the type of leather used, its qualities, and how to best care for it. While we do wish that there was a bit more information, we do appreciate that they’re making at least some kind of an effort.
Manufacturing
Schott NYC does go into considerably more detail when talking about the manufacturing process. Manufacturing and the majority of the company’s total jacket production are in the United States. Curious about production quality and what country of origin means? We’ve got you covered on our Does ‘Made In’ Matter? post.
On their website, Schott offers a surprisingly in-depth pictorial example of their manufacturing process: detailing, raw material selection, color matching, pattern cutting, leather cutting, bundling, detailing, liner application, shell assembly and stitching, and hardware detailing.
They’ve even allowed a number of media outlets to produce videos detailing their manufacturing process. We learned that, on average, about 11 pieces of leather are used to create one Perfecto jacket, and that the final jacket is assembled by nearly 100 pieces, including leather sections and hardware, like snaps and zippers.
Of course, these aren’t totally unbiased reviews. So, consider critically what you’re shown, but again, we appreciate when companies offer potential buyers the ability to see how a product is made. It’s one of the reasons why we try to offer so much information about our own Fort Belvedere products.
From the information made publicly available, we’re genuinely impressed with the attention to detail, the emphasis on handmade manufacturing and inspection by Schott, but of course, that remains to be seen how that measures up in the final jacket.
Special Features
After first pioneering the use of the zipper, Schott has added some other unique features to the Perfecto. Please note that every variety of the Perfecto will have all of these features. So, be sure to check the overview section for any jacket that you are considering.
One of the first things that Schott mentions about most of their jackets is the large back panel. This means that the back panel has been made from one piece of leather. This tends to be more durable, aesthetically pleasing, and better fitting.
To allow for greater movement, the back panel features an additional under-layer to form a “bi-swing back.” These two back pieces are held together with elastic. So, when the arms are extended, the exterior back panel retains its shape without unsightly or uncomfortable pulling or wrinkling.
A common issue with many jackets is the range of movement (or lack thereof) in the arms. In addition to high armholes, most Perfecto jackets feature gusseted, leather-expandable areas called footballs. They’re intended to allow for an additional range of movement and this is done without adding bulky extra leather.
They also feature vented grommets. These are to improve ventilation and to help keep you from feeling hot or stuffy.
Schott offers a 30-day money-back guarantee for direct purchases, but individual retailers may have different terms. Schott also offers a repair service for the life of any new Perfecto jacket. Cost depends on the exact service required, but will generally be cheaper than most third-party repair companies, and it’s always best to get repairs done by the original manufacturer whenever possible.
Schott NYC appears to have an active social media presence and has an attentive customer service department. Many online commentators have noted a positive experience when dealing with quality issues. So, don’t be afraid to reach out if you have issues with your Perfecto.
Our Schott Perfecto 118 Experience
Finally, we’re ready to assess the Perfecto jacket that we purchased from Schott NYC. Please note that we’ll only be considering it as a menswear article, and not as a motorcycle-riding accessory. Today, we’re inspecting a model 118 in black naked cowhide.
Leather Quality
I feel the leather quality was smooth and sturdy to the touch. I didn’t really see any major blemishes upon reviewing this jacket. This jacket certainly felt very heavy to me, which I believe will come in handy during those cooler months, or when out riding a motorcycle.
Lining Quality
The lining feels comfortable and provides a bit of ease to be able to take the jacket on or off. I also find that it provides another element of comfort and warmth.
Length
As someone who is tall, I was a bit concerned about the sleeves being a bit too short. However, this was not the case, and I have just enough length in the sleeves at a regular length.
The break in the waist is a bit shorter than what I was used to, but I do understand that the design calls for that, and it’s actually quite accurate. And it’s not supposed to be something as long as a car coat or something that falls below the waist.
Hardware
I appreciate that the zipper is not small or flimsy. It’s actually quite sturdy and feels very durable.
The belt buckle has a small bit of weight to it, which makes it feel secure and of nice quality. The smooth and polished silver finish to the buckle is a great touch.
Stitch Quality
I haven’t worn this jacket much but my initial experience and exposure to the jacket lead me to believe that the stitching is of decent quality. And I can see how, perhaps after extended use and wear, the lack of stronger or even double stitching could lead to certain seams opening up.
Fit
To me, the waist felt a little bit snug, but this could also be due to the fact that I probably had the wrong size, and maybe needed to go up a size. The look of the zippered sleeve is edgy and having it also further insulate your body is fantastic.
Having the footballs helps increase the range of motion and keep things feeling comfortable. I think I would notice this probably a little bit more if I had a slightly bigger size. Compared to other leather jackets that I’ve tried in the past, this jacket certainly has enough room but nothing that I would call loose or oversized.
In terms of comfort, I certainly felt comfortable in the jacket, knowing that especially over time, I could break it in. The fit guide found on the website was actually pretty close. I did find that the jacket I ended up getting was a bit too tight, ultimately across the shoulders and back. I probably should have gone up at least one size.
Because of that tightness, I can certainly get into the smaller jacket, but I couldn’t layer with it much more than, say, a T-shirt. I know that online some commenters were saying that they might recommend going down a size.
Overall, until you really know how you’re built and how a company sizes their products, it’s probably best to plan on sizing at least two different sizes and seeing how you best fit before you make that initial decision.
Accessibility
As a left-handed person myself, I can confirm that it’s a bit difficult to access certain pockets on motorcycle jackets or leather jackets. The Perfecto still was a little bit difficult for me as well.
Is It Worth It?
As is often the case, whether or not the Schott Perfecto jacket is worth it depends entirely on if it’s the right jacket for you. At this price point, the overall quality of the Perfecto jacket, regarding materials, construction, and features, is good but not exceptional. The leather is high quality and the construction is serviceable.
So, while most Perfecto jackets cost around a hefty $1,000, you can know that you’re getting a product that will last. You can find better-made leather motorcycle jackets at this price point, but no one else quite matches the unique and iconic style of the Perfecto jacket.
When it comes to a distinctive statement piece that makes a great first impression, the Perfecto can definitely help you tap into your inner Wild One or Rebel Without A Cause, but of course, that can also be an issue.
Unlike other motorcycle jackets like the Belstaff Trialmaster, it’s very difficult to dress down or dress up a Perfecto jacket. It will almost always look like a Perfecto, which can be a good thing or a bad thing.
On the one hand, a Perfecto will radiate a youthful and rebellious presence, which can be great if it gives you confidence or reflects your personality. But it also lacks the useful versatility of other casual leather jackets, which can also affect cost per wear and its utility.
Final Thoughts
In conclusion, the Schott Perfecto is definitely worth it if you love the classic style of an American motorcycle jacket and you know you’re going to have many opportunities to wear it. I recommend bold styling options like denim, flannel shirts, sweaters, even full zip hoodies, so you’re not constantly employing the classic jeans and T-shirt combination.
If cultivating a Wild One aesthetic isn’t your thing, you’re probably better off with a more flexible leather jacket due to the cost of a Schott Perfecto. Of course, if money isn’t a major consideration for you and you want a classic American-style motorcycle jacket in your rotation, the Schott Perfecto is a good option.
Schott does offer occasional sales and price reductions most famously during their annual factory sale.
Because of its longevity, a second Schott Perfecto could be a good option for most buyers. Just be aware of fakes. Thankfully, there are many handy online resources to help you identify the real deal, and we also have a guide on 25 tips and tricks for when you decide to buy vintage.