To many, a white T-shirt is a simple and unassuming piece of clothing, worn without any thought–some even view it as a piece of underwear! However, we feel think that the T-shirt is worthy of a bit more respect. Today, we talk about this versatile wardrobe must-have item and some smart ways to wear it well.
Wardrobe, Clothing and Accessories
The History of T-Shirts
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It’s important to note that T-shaped clothing has been around for centuries – from medieval linen tunics to Victorian dress shirts – but I think you’ll agree that these don’t resemble a modern-day T-shirt too much. It’s around the 20th century that we begin to see the T-shirt as we know it today.
The underwear of choice for many was the “union suit.” The historical onesie was a figure-hugging undergarment, which is to keep the wearer warm and their clothes clean. We say clean, but it’s important to remember that this was happening during the Industrial Revolution.
Those performing hard manual labor found the all-encompassing onesie to be very hot and uncomfortable. So, they took to cutting the suit in half at the waist in order to be able to wear the top half, tucked into their trousers. That wasn’t long before underwear manufacturers cottoned onto this and started making undershirts.
One of the most notable companies was the Cooper Underwear Company. In their advertisement, they introduced wearing a stretchy shirt that can be pulled over the head. This is without the button fastening of a union suit.
The result was a smooth comfortable garment that laid flat to the body and helped to better regulate the wearer’s temperature.
The T-shirt will continue on as an undershirt; first being introduced to the US Navy in 1913. They were made of white cotton and had a crew neck. They also sported short sleeves. Fun fact: the term “crew neck” literally comes from the Navy as the rounded neck was actually synonymous with the sailors.
Like most items of menswear with military roots, the practical T-shirt was soon adopted by the general public, with the term “T-shirt” entering the American English language and the term being actually introduced to the Merriam-Webster Dictionary in 1920.
Aside from being an undergarment, the T-shirt was very popular among younger audiences and was also something that was worn when doing chores. A T-shirt is far easier to launder and maintain than a button-down shirt.
It’s with the 1951 film A Streetcar Named Desire and Marlon Brando that the T-shirt became an item of clothing on its own. As the character of Stanley Kowalski, Marlon Brando wears the T-shirt to show the character’s crude and unrefined manner.
The previously unknown Brando shot to fame and then went on to film in 1953’s The Wild One, again sporting a white T-shirt and jeans as a symbol of his character’s rebellious nature. Two years later, in 1955, James Dean took the mantle of rebellious T-shirt wearer in the film Rebel Without A Cause.
As James Dean and Marlon Brando popularized the idea of wearing jeans and T-shirts together, it wasn’t long before people started referring to it as a bit of a uniform; “T-shirts and jeans.”
Moving on from the 50s, the T-shirt continued to have a bit of a double life as both an undergarment and a fashion item. If you watched the TV series Mad Men, you would see that the T-shirt was a very popular choice. Although, when when we reviewed the styles in Mad Men, we think Don Draper could have learned how to wear a better undershirt.
Otherwise, the 60s saw an increase in T-shirt wearing as a fashion item, this time taking the form of colorful tie-dyed garments. Of course, the trend for colorful T-shirts continued in earnest. They eventually developed into other types of printed slogans, images, and colors in the coming decades.
The 70s, for instance, saw the increased use of printed color T-shirts as a marketing tool, acting as a wearable billboard of sorts. With one or two lesser-known companies being the first to do so.
The logo trend continued into the 80s and 90s and people started becoming more aware of the fit of the T-shirt. Typically speaking, it was fashionable for women to wear T-shirts that were slim and short. Whereas for men, things took a turn for a more oversized aesthetic.
Finally, in the 2000s, the T-shirt, which began its life as an undergarment, has now become a bit of an overgarment, like in the unforgettable layering trend, but we’re certainly glad that trend is over.
Today, the T-shirt is a much-seen piece of clothing that I’m sure almost everyone has worn at least once.
As history has proven, the T-shirt is a very versatile garment. And, as often the case with classic style, you simply can’t go wrong with a white tee.
What Makes a Quality White T-Shirt?
When looking for a white T-shirt. it’s all about making sure you’re looking for a garment of high quality. As with most seemingly simple things in life, the key to success is in the details. And with a white T-shirt, there’s little to no room for errors, as anything that’s not up to scratch is easy to see.
1. Fabric
Undoubtedly, the best choice when it comes to a white tee is 100% cotton. It’s clean, crisp, and feels great when worn as a T-shirt. It also has a natural elasticity. You can find many blends of cotton on the market, each with many benefits and its own drawbacks.
Cotton blended with linen, for example, will make a wonderfully light and airy-feeling T-shirt. Something like this would be great for summer, while cotton blended with silk will give you a very soft and luxurious touch.
However, blends can be a little bit trickier to maintain and launder than 100% cotton. Blends with synthetic fibers are usually created to be able to keep costs low for the manufacturer and these typically don’t stand the test of time very well. So, we’d suggest you avoid synthetic blends whenever possible.
Knitted T-shirts
Usually knitted from merino wool or cotton or linen, the knitted T-shirt is a delightful alternative to the traditional flat-woven T-shirt. Merino wool is the material of choice when creating knitted T-shirts because they can be spun into a thin yarn. It also has great natural elasticity. This means it’s even less prone to creases and wrinkles than cotton.
A knitted merino wool T-shirt is constructed as if it were a thin and cropped sweater, all with a distinctive ripped collar and openings. It can provide a nice and dressier look than a traditional cotton T-shirt might.
Otherwise, there’s the pique knit. This is typically constructed in cotton and produces a unique texture. It’s the type of thing you might see more commonly expressed in polo shirts, but the technique can be applied to T-shirts as well. The weave has a sportier look to it but is fine enough to add visual interest and texture to your smart outfits.
As a bonus, the pique knit is an open weave, which is great for breathability. This makes it a great choice for warm-weather outfits and it’s also perfect for those of us who do run hot.
2. Style: V-Neck vs. Crew Neck
As we already know, the crewneck is the most traditional and the most commonly seen of T-shirts. But, is that for everyone?
Just like we explored in our shirt collar guide, the neck style of your T-shirt plays an important role in your overall look. And your body type will play a large role in helping to decide which neckline is best for you.
A v-neck will be more flattering than a crew neck if you have a shorter or wider body type. The downwards point will de-emphasize a shorter stature or a wider frame.
The same logic means that a taller or a slimmer person should avoid a v-neck as you will simply appear even taller and slimmer than you actually are. Instead, go for the classic crew neck, which will fit your frame best. If you’re one of those in the middle body types, then you can pick from either neckline. But, if you’re in doubt, go for the crew neck. After all, you can’t beat a classic.
No Logos
This is simple. A white T-shirt is just that. So, keep your T-shirt clean of logos, slogans, and prints. All of these things come in and out of fashion, but simplicity is always stylish.
3. Fit
Finally, as is the case with any item of clothing, the fit of your T-shirt is paramount. Unlike a tailored suit or dress shirt, a T-shirt is not heavily constructed.
In the same way that the neckline has an impact on the overall look, so does the fit of your T-shirt. It’s easy to figure out the fit by looking at the two ends of the spectrum here. By wearing a T-shirt that is too loose or too tight.
I get it. At the gym, it can be useful to have clothing that doesn’t get in the way. And when you’re at home, who doesn’t love a little bit of Netflix and chill?
However, we’re not talking about wearing a white T-shirt as sportswear or nightgown. Instead, you want to be looking for that sweet spot in the middle. A nice straight fit on the body, sleeves that don’t hug your arms or billow like wings, and generally drapes well on your frame. When your white T-shirt fits like this, it makes it that much easier to combine with different outfits.
How To Wear A White T-Shirt (Anytime)
1. White T-Shirt, Jeans, Suede Footwear/Simple Sneakers
The most classic outfit here would be a white T-shirt and jeans, inspired by the likes of both Marlon Brando and James Dean. You can’t go wrong with this style.
Like we’ve previously discussed, the beauty of this outfit is in its simplicity. So, make sure everything fits you well, and don’t over-accessorize. Doing so can actually clutter the look. For footwear, a simple pair of classic suede boots or Chelsea boots might add a great classic touch to this outfit.
If you want a bit of a different flavor, go for understated leather sneakers.
2. White T-Shirt, Trousers, Navy Jacket, Shors/Boots
The next outfit is the modern gent look. But, whether a T-shirt can be worn with a jacket is a great topic of discussion in the menswear sphere. And, naturally, we’ve added our two cents, in a separate post on our website.
While Raphael and Preston might not necessarily agree to this, I am okay with sometimes wearing this.
The key to pulling it off is how you choose your tailored garments. By selecting an odd navy jacket or blazer, which has little or no padding, has more of an unstructured look, creates a little bit of harmony when paired with the casualness of the T-shirt.
The casual element can also be reflected in the shoes as a pair of loafers or even dress shoes of a more casual nature or look or style can help create a little bit of balance between the tailored garment and the casualness of the T-shirt.
If I’m choosing to wear this with the dress shoes, of course, I’m going to add in my Fort Belvedere socks. But, you can always choose to try to wear this outfit combination with loafers and go for that “no sock look” to help add to the casual look.
As with the jacket, keep your trousers similarly unfussy to create a clean aesthetic. Polish everything off by keeping things in proportion.
Wearing a White T-Shirt When It’s Cold
3. White T-Shirt, Brown Jacket, Chinos, Dress Shoes
When the temperature drops, a white T-shirt might not be your first choice of clothing. But, it can still look great when paired with a casual jacket.
The first cold-weather outfit includes a brown veal skin jacket. I really enjoy the softer silhouette of this outfit and it’s something that’s quite easy to layer in a light sweater underneath you.
For this look, regardless of your body type, do not wear this with a v-neck T-shirt. The multiple v-neck look only works if you’re a Jedi. This look could also look really good with a pair of flannels in the winter or even a pair of sturdy chinos. It all depends on how formal you want to be, even some dark denim can look great with this option.
4. White T-Shirt, Overcoat, Scarf, Chinos, Boots
Nowadays, most buildings are temperature-controlled and this means you’ll typically be in the same temperature for the better part of the entire year.
By skipping a mid-weight layer like a jacket or a sweater, you can go all the way to a heavier item like an overcoat. This way, you’ll be able to maintain warmth as you go from one place to the next and be at a comfortable temperature when you’re back indoors by removing the overcoat.
Whichever overcoat you choose to add, you can’t go wrong by adding a pair of chinos to this outfit. Much like the rules of business casual dictates, chinos aren’t as casual as jeans but not as formal as the odd trouser. They’re the perfect middle ground.
And as we’re dressing for colder weather, a pair of boots is a must for this outfit.
Wearing a White T-Shirt When It’s Hot
5. White T-Shirt, Linen Pants, Loafers
Moving on to warmer temperatures, a white T-shirt can look remarkably dressed up when paired with linen. By adding a pair of linen trousers, you get a more relaxed elegance than if you were wearing a dress shirt.
For example, with a warm-weather outfit of a white T-shirt and blue pants, you can seamlessly transition from the beach to the café by simply swapping into maybe a brown pair of trousers, and be appropriately dressed in either location.
As linen is a wonderful fabric to enjoy in the warm-weather seasons, it’s the perfect opportunity to take advantage of the natural colors, which translate to linen so well. Greens, browns, and blues will all look incredible in this combination.
Top the outfit off with a pair of loafers to further refine the outfit. Once again, I prefer the relaxed, sockless look as it also helps to keep me cool in the ensemble, but, you can add socks if you want to.
6. White T-Shirt, Linen Overshirt, Shorts, Boat Shoes
Last, we have the resort-ready outfit. The hot weather, for many, means shorts and a T-shirt. And I say go for it. But, instead of just grabbing any pair of shorts and a T-shirt, you can elevate this ensemble by choosing a pair of simple stylish shorts, which fit you well. You carry over many of the same style elements that make long trousers look good.
What sets this look apart is the inclusion of an overshirt. It’s one of our favorite items for layering when dressing in-between seasons. With many overshirts being crafted from lightweight fabrics like linen, they make great options to be worn in this ensemble. Unlike a jacket, you can roll the sleeves if you wish. This will add a touch of sprezzatura or a nonchalant elegance to the outfit.
Round the look off with a pair of boat shoes. As a warm-weather classic, boat shoes will keep you comfortable in the heat and strike the perfect level of formality.
Outfit Rundown
Today, I’m wearing a brown veal skin jacket, a white crewneck t-shirt, brown belt, dark denim, and a pair of white leather sneakers. Rounding off the outfit with a pair of Fort Belvedere socks. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop for socks like these.
What’s your favorite way of wearing a white T-shirt in style? Share your techniques with our community in the comments!
How do you keep the collar of your jacket/overcoat clean when wearing a tee? Scarves do work but change the look!
Another well done, informative video. Thank you!
I find some brands of t shirts to have sleeves that are to long or to big , so I roll or cuff them. It gives the shirt more of the Brando look, a slight bad boy type look .
Check out the brand True Classic Tees. Best fitting T-shirts I’ve yet found.
1) I thought all t-shirts were knitted, not woven. Tell me if I’m wrong.
2) Wearing a t-shirt with a jacket instead of a shirt with a collar is a quick way to get the collar of your jacket dirty. You may achieve that up-to-the-minute Miami Vice look, but you have to send your coat to the cleaners every other day.
3) In hot weather wearing a cotton t-shirt under your shirt, especially with a jacket or suit, is not only a good way not to look like you slept in your clothes when you arrive at the office, it actually lets you feel cooler, counter-intuitive as that may be. The t-shirt acts as a wick, absorbing sweat, and cools as it evaporates and dries.
White T shirt as fashion…hmmm…ok if you insist. As for Kyle… Sorry but he always looks awkward and his clothes too tight. I’ll say it again… You need a stylist for your photo shoots.
I agree.
Moreover, when the staff of G.G. are showing their clothes, they constantly pulling, picking and adjusting. I realize they are not professional models but their fidgeting is awkward looking.
Agree about Kyle and the fit. You can tell his pants are slightly too tight just from that ‘X’ thing they do at the crotch and also the way they ‘stack’ at the knees. Stacking is meant to happen at the hem of the pant leg and even then only with skinny leg jeans.
Wearing a White T Shirt is ok. but i prefer wearing a colored one with jeans or slacks add a coat and you have more ways to look cool Yes, white goes well with other colors but again why not step it up a notch with a contrasting colored t shirt or one that blends with the jeans or slacks or the coat or jacket if you are going to wear one!
A white T-shirt as an undergarment is alright. But if you put it on like this you’re moving into the realms of streetwear. And the V-necked T-shirt has its place: so you don’t see the T-shirt if you’re wearing an open-necked dress shirt.
Agreed…streetwear is a nice way of saying it…not what I look to the GG for.
Hi – Nothing was mentioned about the length of a t-shirt. I am 6-1 tall and thin and I always have a problem with medium sized t-shirts being too long. It seems that it is rare to find a t-shirt that does not look way too long. How far should it come below the belt? I am assuming that they should never be tucked in. On the TV show Queer Eye for a Straight Guy, they suggest the French Tuck. Is that something you recommend?
Hi Ken,
Here’s an article from RMRS that gives good pointers on the fit and length of a t-shirt: https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/t-shirt-style-tips/#tip3
I tend to agree with Centeno’s advice on length: a little bit past the waistband or a couple of inches past the belt. Or my rule of thumb: 25-50% (no more, though) covering one’s buttocks. Less looks unflattering when raising arms or reaching upward (or like they’ve borrowed it from their little brother); more looks unkempt and venturing into dress territory or like it’s been borrowed from one’s big brother.
There is a difference between an undershirt and a t-shirt. You seem to have totally ignored this.
Old Bostonian:
You’re absolutely right! They’re not the same thing,and I hope that Raphael will address this point.
There certainly is a difference between an undershirt and a t-shirt. We’ve previously explored undershirts in-depth here, which I hope you’ll find useful.
OK, first time ever posting (I just could not resist)…and I have to say I TOTALLY disagree (for the first time)…a white tee shirt is underwear unless it has some level of detail or color (even a pocket (but not mustard stains)) and the v-neck makes it more like underwear. Personally, I’d never ware one as anything but underwear… and to ware it with a sports coat, LOL, no way! Honestly, I am sort of shocked that the GG would even post such a thing. The white tee shirt is not elegant at any level. It is because of its total lack of sophistication and style that they wore it in those moves, to depict that the characters did not care about style…because it is the opposite of style. I like elegance and classic styles and to me a white tee shirt with no detail, color, or texture is noting but underwear. It started that way and will always be that way in my mind.
I have to disagree about v-necks and underwear. My understanding is undershirts (precursor to t-shirts) originated with crew necks or round necks as shown in the picture above. If anything v-necks would have less of an undershirt vibe.
I also wouldn’t wear it or any t-shirt beneath a sports coat. For me a polo shirt is the most casual shirt I’d wear with the latter. In saying that, I’d argue that for casual wear the plain white t-shirt (definitely not a graphic) layered under an overshirt or casual button down shirt looks smart but gives a relaxed vibe. This isn’t the best article but if you scroll down to the pic of the denim over-shirt with black jeans, that’s an example of what I consider relaxed but smart for casual wear: https://www.dmarge.com/how-to-wear-black-jeans-men
Hi Rick, thank you for taking the time to comment.
Of course, if you see a white t-shirt as an undergarment and choose to wear one as such, that’s absolutely fine. Given the age and heritage of the white t-shirt, we feel it is certainly a part of classic menswear history, therefore worthy of discussion. Especially in the 21st Century, where the majority of people dress more casually as a default.
Regarding the elegance of a white t-shirt, our article on the formality scale may be useful. A classic white t-shirt devoid of logos, graphics, or appliques is inherently smarter than a t-shirt that sports additional details. Therefore, a white t-shirt is a good way to add a refined edge to casual ensembles, as well as offering a relaxed feel to dressier looks.
Hopefully, by exploring an item such as a white t-shirt, those who are new to their classic style journey will be inspired to learn more about classic style. Equally, those who are well versed in the realms of menswear may learn something new, or at least enjoy the discussion of a shared passion.