Popular menswear ensembles are often associated with Hollywood style icons–and despite the fact that fashion comes and goes, some styles remain as legacies (think of James Dean’s Harrington jacket and jeans combo, for instance). So, how have men’s style icons changed over time, and is the influence of celebrities as strong as it used to be?
History of Famous & Influential Menswear
Before we compare the movie stars of yesteryear to the men in Hollywood these days and how they impact classic style, let’s go to a time when the silver screen wasn’t even imaginable. While there’s the popular quote, “Clothes maketh the man,” there are certainly a few individuals that actually got people talking about clothes in the first place.
18th Century Fashion — Ruled by Aristocrats
Throughout most of history, fashion was defined by monarchs and aristocrats. They governed the land, set the trends, and paid handsomely for their clothes. Unless, of course, they stiffed their tailors.
These days, we have famous people who set the style trends. But, back then, from ancient history until the era of film, the ruling class influenced style just like famous people do so today.
The people in church back then would even go so far as to use the legal systems to create hierarchies that kept everyone in their place. That, of course, also extended to fashion and certain people could wear certain things and others couldn’t.
By wearing one thing, you were communicating one thing, and it had a huge, profound impact on society. For example, some Roman emperors would forbid their non-royal subjects to wear the color purple under the penalty of death. That’s like having an actual fashion police.
In many European countries, there were some sure laws not allowing certain people to wear things and others were forced to wear things. For example, a law from 1397 in Venice dictated that Jews had to wear yellow badges so they could be identified visually. Other people were not allowed to wear certain things. For example, the so-called “Negro Act” from 1740, which was passed in the province of South Carolina, forbade slaves to dress above their status. It also prescribed certain fabrics that were only to be worn by slaves.
Around the same time, in 1746, the Act of Prescription was passed in the British Parliament. It forbade anyone in Scotland to wear highland dress or tartan. Of course, the fact that it was forbidden ingrained even more in Scottish culture. Without this act, chances are we wouldn’t be able to enjoy tartans and highland dresses today.
At one point in time, rich fabrics like silk or velvet, or urban fur were reserved for the upper class of society. Once nifty businessmen and members, who were not part of the aristocracy, found ways to also wear these expensive fabrics and furs, the upper class had to come up with something else to distinguish themselves from the non-blue-blooded counterparts.
So, in the 19th century, the rich opulence that previously characterized the aristocracy now had to make way for much simpler clothing. While that shift might appear like it was in line with the general ideas and principles of enlightenment, that wasn’t quite true. Hierarchies weren’t abolished, they just shifted towards rules of elegance.
The rules on what to wear and what not to wear were closely guarded among the aristocracy. So, if you weren’t part of that, you simply didn’t know what made you part of the group. Rather than just displaying bold colors and rich fabrics, fit became much more important and the little details of correctness could decide one’s social fate. Of course, the upper class kept the secrets of what to wear and what not to wear very closely guarded. So, if you were an outsider, you remained an outsider.
Beau Brummell Entered High Society
The whole shift in menswear culture towards more simplicity became really obvious when Beau Brummell entered high society. Even though many consider him to be the dandy par excellence today, he was, in fact, at the time, someone who had made menswear more muted and less colorful and flamboyant. He wore his coats with just a white shirt, tie, and waistcoat.
Also, it wasn’t about the color anymore. It was all about how it was worn and how the tie was tied and how long it took him to make it look that he actually didn’t spend any time on it at all. This concept is now also known as sprezzatura.
As society moved away from feudalism and monarchies, towards a new vision of democracy, things changed. Now, entertainers had an increasingly bigger sway on what people on the streets would emulate. And it didn’t matter if they had a high pedigree or if they came from humble beginnings.
Celebrities as Style “Tastemakers”
Along with the cultural evolution, the views around consumerism and traditional style shifted once again. James Dean, The Beatles, and Marlon Brando became cultural figures of the mainstream, and therefore, they influenced the contemporary style of their day. Fame, as we know it today, was born then.
These days people in the entertainment industry have full-time stylists, and one of them is Ashley Weston. The cultural and industry methods of how celebrities are portrayed, how they’re marketed are somewhat different, but at the same time, you can find similarities to how things were during the golden age of menswear in the 1930s.
Everyday Suits
Unlike musicians, businessmen, or statesmen before them, movie star actors were seen almost on a daily basis, be it on the silver screen or in the newspapers. So, because these actors were seen more often, people just felt they knew them better and they became bigger stars.
Interestingly, the stars of the 20s such as Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, or Fatty Arbuckle often dressed poorly on camera for a comedic effect. Today, mocking homeless or poor people and their clothing choices on screen is not considered to be gentlemanly behavior, especially not if it’s done for entertainment purposes.
On a side note, actors wear sunglasses in between takes to prevent their eyes from getting all that harsh light. People caught on to that and started wearing sunglasses to add a touch of glamour to their own, sometimes not as glamorous, lives.
Soon, identified men’s figures, like Rudolph Valentino, would pop up playing heartthrobs and gaining mainstream acceptance and significance. Rudolph was known for his rakish, rather flamboyant taste that had influences from Italy that were distinctly bolder than what most Americans were used to seeing at the time. He often wore his signature slick-backed hairstyle.
You can see him wearing cufflinks, rings with dark stones, and he would also not shy away from wearing fur. Overall, his style was rakish through and through.
Actors Owned Their Clothing
Even though film was developing into a mainstream medium for entertainment, small studios like RKO or Warner Brothers had somewhat tight and limited budgets. This often meant that especially male actors, were expected to supply their own wardrobe, which was used for filming. And this just shows that the needs were a lot more simple at the time.
However, that also meant that these actors actually had their own style. They would probably get custom clothing that fit them well and just spoke to their character. This wasn’t just true for C-list or B-list actors, but also for the Hollywood stars at the time.
Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable, Cary Grant, and Fred Astaire would often wear their own clothing in contemporary productions. Obviously, one of the key differences was that actors were expected to build their own brand while on and off-camera.
As such, one’s style and the clothing one would wear became a big part of what an actor had to understand and master. So, even off the job, Clark Gable was known for his formalwear and his double-breasted suits, as well as three-piece single-breasted suits.
His clothes showcased all the hallmarks of 1930s style. He had pants with big pleats that were full cut and had cuffs or turnips. His jackets had a wider lapel with a lower gorge, sometimes patch pockets and he was definitely a fan of the drape cut. The jackets also had shoulder padding, had some waist suppressions and he would always wear a tie and a pocket square.
Cary Grant, who bought dozens of suits throughout his career, openly admitted that he didn’t choose fashionable suits, but more middle of the fashion stuff and he never considered himself to be well-dressed, while people looking back today think of him as this timeless style icon. Choosing a lapel that was neither too slim nor too wide and being very much middle of fashion is probably the secret why his stuff still looks wearable today and timeless.
In one of his looks, you can see him with a three-piece suit in mid-gray flannel with a darker overcoat and a white shirt, shoes, and hat. Nothing special or fancy, but just very classic.
At the time, many musicians transitioned into film via musicals because they were quite profitable. So, singers like Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra, or Louis Armstrong became a lot more popular and well-known.
In this photo here from Frank Sinatra in 1961, along with fellow Rat Packer Dean Martin, you can see elements of his signature style. It’s a charcoal single-breasted three-piece suit with a five-button vest that’s rather on the shorter side. The pants are cut high-waisted. He has a white shirt with an impeccable collar. He’s wearing a tie and a pocket square, along with a hat–a dark straw short-brimmed trilby with a wide contrasting ribbon.
Notable elements are the pleats on his pants and the fact that he’s wearing opera pumps. At the time, opera pumps were popular for men for evening wear, but not typically for regular suits. But, it was just a style that he liked and so he wore it.
So, if you think back about the well-dressed men from the 30s, 40s, and 50s, chances are you think of actors first and foremost. Not politicians, businessmen, or other important men at the time.
One could say, “Wow! They had such great style, but compared to today, their clothing choices were a lot more limited.” As a man, you basically had to wear a suit. There wasn’t really a way around that. Sure, you could try wearing jeans and a wife-beater, but that was socially less acceptable for their status and position.
At the time, style moved much more slowly. Fashion was well-curated and coordinated with manufacturers, and materials were a lot more expensive. So, people bought a lot less, less frequently but spent more on the individual garments. Fabrics are also heavier so they last longer. But, the finishing wasn’t quite as refined as it is today.
Casual Styles
Not long after, actors like Marlon Brando or James Dean became famous for their non-suit, more casual looks. And even actors like Steve McQueen, who would sometimes wear suits, was also highly regarded for his more casual, rugged personal style.
Steve McQueen’s style wasn’t complicated. Just look at this photo. He wore a pair of khaki pants with some white socks and then, a pair of well-walked-in chukka boots. His sweater was darker than his crew neck. He had a lighter shirt and a coat.
The only thing missing here is the traditional signature Persol sunglasses.
The Style of Men Today
More Entertainers, More Style Inspiration
Hollywood is certainly part of the mainstream and pumps out a lot more films and movies than they used to. On top of that, you have places like Amazon and Netflix that also produce a lot of stuff.
With big-budget Hollywood films, Amazon, and Netflix dominating the entertainment mainstream world, how come not more male actors are known for their style? Sure, they’re actors like Tom Ford, Ryan Gosling, Jay-Z, Kanye West, George Clooney, and, of course, James Bond Daniel Craig. It is no longer necessary for an actor to really have this personal style and personal wardrobe.
Just think about the Black Tie outfits on the red carpet at the Oscars and how many people get it wrong. Oftentimes, they just wear whatever stylist pushes because, maybe, it’s part of the PR campaign. Even low-budget productions today have enough money to pay for all the clothes of the individual character and, oftentimes, roles are much more varied and nuanced than they used to be.
Most male Hollywood celebrities today gain more attention for their good looks or their level of fitness. Daniel Craig, Ryan Gosling, or Brad Pitt are more well-known for what they look like without a shirt on than with a suit. This current, sort of, obsession with fitness and looks wasn’t as pronounced during the heyday of classic men’s clothing.
Also, there’s a much bigger emphasis on product placement in Hollywood these days because that can make a lot of money. Just think of Daniel Craig’s famous scene in one of the early Bond movies, where he corrects Vesper Lynd on the brand of his watch, Omega not Rolex.
The influence of streetwear, hype culture, and comfort has really changed the way status and wealth, and style are perceived in the public eye today. Old Hollywood may have been more interested in giving that flair of upper class, but today, it’s more about being bold and being true to yourself and just expressing yourself.
Even some famous men look down on dressing up. Just think about Mark Cuban or Steve Jobs or Mark Zuckerberg, for example.
Modern Hollywood Has Various Menswear Styles
If you look at famous men today in the film industry who are hailed for their style, one of the first names that come up is George Clooney. Frankly, in my mind, he wears more of a uniform and he doesn’t have a very interesting personal style.
Typically, he wears a suit that is neither too slim nor too wide with a shirt, without any neckwear or any pocket square, matching shoes in black. Overall, an unexciting outfit. Nevertheless, most people in the mainstream would consider it to be a classic suit look that is timeless and stylish. It’s a bit like the old Cary Grant approach in our era. But, because everything around us has changed, it’s a lot less nuanced and more boring than it used to be.
An actor like Benedict Cumberbatch, on the other hand, has a more distinct personal style. But, he’s also British. For example, you can see him at Wimbledon wearing a green suit with rather slim lapels that suit his silhouette, a light blue shirt with a blue knit tie, and brown derby shoes, and, of course, sunglasses, and a more relaxed haircut.
Even though we appreciate stars who have a knack for classic style, there are other actors, like Mahershala Ali or Timothée Chalamet, who use suits in a different way.
Mahershala Ali often likes a monochrome look. I’ve seen him wearing tuxedos with a black shirt and a black tie, or he wears a navy suit with peak lapels that are double-breasted but with a turtleneck sweater, and then, maybe, some yellow sunglasses and shoes that are spectators and loafers, which is not something you would have traditionally worn with a double-breasted suit and, then, without socks or no-show socks. He’s not afraid to wear bolder colors such as burgundy suits, for example, with less contrasting shirts.
Timothée Chalamet is known for his bold outfits. It can be a suit that’s super trim cut with a bold flower print or something else that’s just over the top.
Then vs. Now: What’s Changed?
Actors Were More Conservative with Their Looks
At first glance, it may seem that actors back then were just themselves versus today it’s all just about marketing. But, if you take a closer, look you realize that, even in old Hollywood, they had their ways to protect the reputation of actors.
Back then it was important for the studios that their contract actors and performers had a squeaky clean reputation because anything else was bad for business. This aspect of Hollywood is pretty well-covered in the Coen Brothers’ Hail, Caesar! Because of that, studios and record labels pay top dollar to make instances simply disappear. Clark Gable and Mary Pickford are certainly the most infamous cases for that.
Today, exposing scandals is just part of the game of show business. There’s even an entire industry of bloggers and influencers who do nothing but highlighting those things. As a lover of classic style, it’s much harder to find role models in Hollywood today.
Fortunately, there are a lot of period productions that pay great attention to the clothing worn at the time. I’m sure many of us are gonna do classic menswear by watching Mad Men, Boardwalk Empire, Peaky Blinders, Downton Abbey, and so forth.
Another example is the stylish men of Kingsman. Throughout the film installment, they created an entire range of clothing, and even though we disagree with many details in the movie, it definitely helped to create an interest with mainstream men in classic men’s clothing and that’s a good thing.
Men Now Have More Freedom to Choose Clothing
Another big difference between then and now is the fact that men are much freer to choose whatever they want when it comes to clothing. Back then, you could wear a suit, maybe a slightly different color, your tie could maybe be different. But, today, you can truly wear whatever you feel comfortable with and express yourself through your clothes.
We believe that’s a good thing and with the internet, it has become easier than ever to find like-minded peers at the other end of the world that you can nerd out with about the details of your particular style interests. In the last ten years, there has been an increasingly large number of influencers, Youtubers, and lately, TikTokers who help keep the classic style alive.
So, while you can’t rely on Hollywood giving you great examples of classic style, you can bet we always will.
Outfit Rundown
I’m neither wearing a 30’s suit nor a modern outfit. Much rather, I picked something that really reflects my own personal style and it goes well with the season. It consists of a rather unusual mottled green fresco suit, which I bought secondhand as my very first high-end suit years ago on eBay for 40 or 50 bucks. Fortunately, I haven’t outgrown it yet.
Fresco is a really airy material and you can feel every breeze in it, which makes it great for warmer climates. Yes, the color is bold but if you tone down the rest of your outfit, it can still be a great classic look. I’m combining it with a thin blue and white striped shirt, which is a Winchester shirt. It has a white club collar.
I’m pairing it with a brown model knit tie, which is, likewise, very summery and works with the green. My pocket square is a darker green, so it has some contrast to the suit. It has elements of blue, which picks up the shirt, and elements of brown, which you can see in my belt and shoes.
My cufflinks are gold and tiger’s eye with an eagle claw from Fort Belvedere. And I’m pairing them with a gold ring that is green with green tourmaline. And the colors work well with my green belt, which is from J. Press and Ivy style inspired.
I’m pairing them with dark brown suede derby shoes and I put in a green pair of Fort Belvedere shoelaces to just spice it up and tie it together with the outfit. By the way, all Fort Belvedere accessories can be found in our shop, just like the pair of socks I’m wearing, which are our two-tone solid Oxford socks in cotton.
This is a mix of blue and light blue, which has a sheen of green and, therefore, it works well with the suit. It provides enough contrast but it’s not too bold.
I flick my very gentlemanly beard in your general direction.
And I’m pretty sure you’ve got the vent thing backwards.
To clarify (as I see the previous reply could easily be taken the wrong way), I do understand that side vents were created specifically for equestrian needs. That doesn’t mean they don’t ALSO benefit us horseless types. For some fine suits, one may want to go center-vented for slightly cleaner lines or due to their body shape, but double vents offer so much more flexibility that they are better for daily wear. To say that they are for horseriding ONLY is ridiculous. If we followed that logic, nobody would wear the classic blazer, chukkas, boat shoes, etc.
I was probably still bristling (in more than one way) about the grooming thing. And it’s Monday.
I don’t recall James Dean ever wearing a Harrington jacket in any movie. It’s kind of like when you people said he was wearing Levis instead of Lees.
Love the green vintage suit, despite the two small stains. Pity with vintage, you have to take the small bad with the greater good.
Or it could be from being a Dad. There’s a whole article and video about dressing as a Dad from when his daughter was younger about how children drool, spit up, wipe their snotty hands/noses and vomit among other things and how to a point, one has to expect these things will happen around kids.
Ah, fatherhood. Yes, you have to learn to simply accept these things as part of it, and wear them like a badge of honor. It’s just like being a dog owner and knowing that always having some dog hair on your clothes is just standard operating procedure.
Just read the recent article “Then VS Now” One of the illustrations is that of an open book with a page showing Cary Grant in a scene from “To Catch A Thief” He is wearing grey flannel slacks and a pull over that looks like a mock turtle neck with thin horizontal stripes. It begs the question, what is the title of this book, one I’ve never seen. Thank you!
Great responses!