James Bond Style Rules – Menswear Secrets from 007

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James Bond is one of the world’s most famous fictional characters. His style is admired, copied, and adored by men around the world. Even though there are entire blogs and channels dedicated to the style of James Bond, it’s not that easy to copy his look because on the one hand, you need a lot of dough, and on the other hand, you may not look like James Bond.

Just because an outfit works well for 007, doesn’t mean it will work well for you, and your style, and your surroundings. At the Gentleman’s Gazette, we think it makes more sense to figure out what style rules Bond abides by and then use those to adapt them to your unique situations rather than just copying him to the tee.

The Evolution of Agent 007’s Style

Agent 007 has been on film since 1962 when Sean Connery embodied Bond in Doctor No. Bond is now entering his seventh decade at Hollywood and as you can imagine, his style has changed quite a bit throughout the years. Bond has worn everything from dinner jackets to traditional tuxedos, Scottish Highland dress, formal morning dress, as well as one-piece ski suits in yellow, as well as tropical shirts.

While James bond was a fan of disguises, which luckily the current one is not really a fan of anymore, instead he has developed a sartorial reputation that shows him as being effortlessly dapper at all times, always prepared for the situation, and dress appropriately. And of course, Bond has worn many bad outfits and admiring them or imitating them is just not stylish at all. For example, in the 1970s, it was, in general, a really dark era for classic men’s style and fashion and that was also true for Bond.

A 1970s advert showing the style of that era
A 1970s advert showing the style of that era

Ian Fleming’s literary James Bond was not nearly as stylish as he is made out to be today. Of course, over the course of two dozens of Bond films, different costume designers and choreographers have changed the way he looked. On top of that, product placements play a much bigger role today than they used to be 40 years ago. So just because Bond now drinks Heineken and shaves with a Gillette, doesn’t mean that you should.

Daniel Craig has been playing Bond since 2006 and he definitely has brought him into a new era of Bond style.

What Are James Bond’s Style Rules?

Even though we think it’s impossible to distill the James Bond-style down to one single concept, we came up with 11 rules that we think he lives by.

1. He Respects The Power and Style Of Clothes

Obviously, Bond is an intense character who’s more a man of action rather than words. As such, his clothes are an important part of who he is and how he wants to be perceived.

In the 2006 Casino Royale movie, we can see that Bond utilizes his clothes as a tool. In the opening scene, he wears a tropical shirt whereas later in the movies, Vesper comments on his disdain for the suit and later on, he changes his dinner jacket for a traditional tuxedo. By the end of the movie, Bond is embracing the power of clothes, wearing a three-piece suit for his final show of power. There’s no real purpose for this outfit other than showing that Bond has fully grasped the power of clothes and his new identity. Bond fully understands that great clothes, especially more formal ones such as a suit, add to his air of competence and authority. He fully understands that he’s not going to earn respect or elicit fear if he’s dressed like the average American suburban dad.

2. He Knows What Works for Him and Sticks With It

What does that mean? Well, he expects his garments to perform and so he doesn’t use cheap substitutes. He also keeps his color palette somewhat limited to keep a harmonious look that is somewhat of a signature for him.

3. Bond’s Style Never Overshadows Him

The same is true for you, the clothes shouldn’t be wearing you, you should be wearing your clothes. That means the clothes shouldn’t be so bold that they overshadow your personality. Bond has understood that and he keeps it simple. Bond sticks with muted colors, white shirts, subtle patterns, and nothing is overdone. Obviously, his style is deliberately not flashy at all. 

Bond wearing a a three-piece tropical wool suit in a muted color
Bond wearing a a three-piece tropical wool suit in a muted color

4. Bond Moves With The Times But Leans Into Classics

Fashion has changed radically since 1962 and every Bond has found a way to move with the fashions. Roger Moore wore a safari suit and flared pants in the 1970s, Pierce Brosnan’s Brioni suits and jackets lean more into the looser fit of the 90s versus Daniel Craig in the 2000s used Tom Ford suits with a slimmer and trimmer silhouette. So even though Bond goes with the time, certain elements like the classic suit are always part of his repertoire.

The same is true for you, you don’t have to buy period garments but you can buy items that you can wear now or 20 or 30 years from now because they’re subtle in the pattern and they’re not flashy and you can just wear them all the time.

Bond wearing a dark gray suit, light blue shirt, pocket square, and navy tie with polka dots.
Bond wearing a dark gray suit, light blue shirt, pocket square, and navy tie with polka dots.

5. You Don’t Have To Stick To Bones Color Palette

If you’re into clothes and you like to play with colors, you can certainly explore a little more, all that matters is that you find something that works for you. For example, I’m a clotheshorse and I have all kinds of different patterns and colors in my wardrobe but when I wear them, I try to do so sparingly and not everything at once. No matter what your style is, you should never look like you’re trying too hard and it’s exactly what James Bond is good at. 

Bond wearing a sand corduroy unstructured suit, buttondown cornflower blue shirt, and a maroon silk tie with a repeating blue tile pattern
Bond wearing a sand corduroy unstructured suit, buttondown cornflower blue shirt, and a maroon silk tie with a repeating blue tile pattern

6. Functional Wear Doesn’t Mean Athleisure

Bond is always on the run yet you never see him in Lululemon pants. He’ still manages to be 007 agent despite wearing the clothes he chose which are more in a foreign side. Bond sometimes chases terrorists in a suit and Oxfords, I am, by no means, suggesting that you should wear a suit to the gym or go fishing. At the same time, please understand that just because you do something that is functional, doesn’t mean you have to resort to athleisure wear. In the same vein, you don’t always have to wear sneakers, a well-fitting pair of leather dress shoes will do the job and they look stylish too.

7. Know The Style Rules (Then Break Them As They Suit You)

Bond definitely breaks certain style rules and we don’t suggest you make all of them but still, knowing what it is and then intentionally deciding not to follow it is much better than not having a clue in the first place. For example, Bond wears knit ties with formal dark suits. 20 years ago, people would have maybe thought of that as being incorrect but in this day and age, it’s ok to add a more casual tie with more texture to the otherwise classic business suit. On the other hand, the new Bond sometimes wears a three-piece suit with a belt which is obviously wrong because it makes your vest bunch up in the front so a pair of suspenders or side adjusters in your pants are preferable.

You may wear a knit tie to elevate a traditional business suit ensemble
You may wear a knit tie to elevate a traditional business suit ensemble
Two-Tone Knit Tie in Red and Navy Blue Changeant Silk - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Two-Tone Knit Tie in Red and Navy Blue Changeant Silk

Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue Veronica Persica Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

White Linen Pocket Square with Navy Blue Handrolled X Stitch - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

White Linen Pocket Square with Navy Blue Handrolled X Stitch

Personally, I think it’s just the costume designer who doesn’t pay attention but at the end of the day, it still reflects the Bond style. For example, look at Bond’s watch selection, he pretty much wears sports watches exclusively even with his tuxedo. That decision is not so much driven by his style, I think, rather than the product placement and if companies pay a lot and their bestsellers are sports watches, that’s what they want Bond to wear.

That being said, his status as a special agent makes it more suitable for him to wear a sports watch that needs to perform at all times. He also wears a lot of black on black which makes his character recede sometimes into a background which again, for his role and be advantageous but in general, black and menswear is one of the most overrated colors. On occasion, Bond also skips the waistcoat with a single-breasted tuxedo which is not the norm even though more and more people are doing it in Hollywood these days. It doesn’t mean it favors your look simply because an exposed waistband just looks unfinished. 

8. Dress For The Occasion

Bond is typically well attired. He wears a tuxedo when it calls for it, he wears a suit when he shows up at MI6, and he wears a down jacket and boots when it’s cold outside. Understanding your surroundings and the purpose of your clothes always help you to dress through the right level, depending on your occasion.

Bond wearing a Barbour jacket outdoors [Image Credit: Columbia Pictures]
Bond wearing a Barbour jacket outdoors [Image Credit: Columbia Pictures]

9. The Basics Will Always Look Good

Whether it’s a pair of dark denim, a dark suit, a white shirt, a white pocket square or a knit tie, these are all staples in your wardrobe that you can combine with lots of different outfits and they work for Bond and they will work for you too. Why? Well, all these are classics that have stood the test of time, they have been around for a while and they will be around for a while and Bond fully embraces that.

10. When In Doubt, Wear A Jacket

I would say that Bond, more often than not, wears a jacket, whether it’s a suit jacket, a blazer, a sport coat, a safari jacket or maybe a down jacket. He just wears something because it pulls his looks together and he’s more complete that way.

Bond in a safari jacket [Image Credit: EON Productions]
Bond in a safari jacket [Image Credit: EON Productions]

11. James Bond Embraces The Suit

In 2020, the suit is, in many ways, dying as a requirement in the workplace and people don’t have to wear the suit anymore. At the same time, James Bond chooses to wear it because it gives him dignity, authority, and competence. Bond chooses to wear the suit because it’s the classic hyper masculine garment that communicates power and authority, at the same time, he wears it because it makes him feel good and respected. The same is true for you. If you like the way suits make you feel and be perceived, then by all means, go ahead and wear them even though people around you may not wear them anymore.

Bond in a classic gray suit [Image Credit: Metro Goldwyn Mayer and EON Productions]
Bond in a classic gray suit [Image Credit: Metro Goldwyn Mayer and EON Productions]

Conclusion

In a nutshell, rather than copying the style of James Bond or relying on product placements that pay a ton of money to be featured in a film, it’s better to take those concepts and apply them to your unique situation so you look the part so you’re confident and you feel your best.

Outfit Rundown

I am wearing a typically Bond-inspired outfit. It is a dark suit; I chose a navy one but you could choose a gray one. I have a white shirt with barrel cuffs, no cufflinks, and a Prince of wales check tie in a dark pattern so it’s just very muted but overall it provides enough contrast. It looks elegant with my white linen pocket square from Fort Belvedere just like the tie.

Even though James Bond now wears slim fit suit pants, they don’t work for me because I have bigger thighs and so I have pleated pants with cuffs. At the same time, I’m going with the sleek black whole cut oxfords that James Bond would wear with a suit – no broguing, no eccentric or excessive detail, just clean pure lines.

Raphael in a James Bond-inspired ensemble
Raphael in a James Bond-inspired ensemble
Prince of Wales Check Silk Tie in Black and White - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Prince of Wales Check Silk Tie in Black and White

White Initial Pocket Square - Hand-Embroidered in Italy

Fort Belvedere

White Initial Pocket Square – Hand-Embroidered in Italy

How do you like James Bond’s style? Which of his style principles do you live by? Share it in the comments section!

Reader Comments

  1. A clear essential rule from the James Bond dress code: the clothes are always of the highest quality, no matter what the style.

  2. Dress like him all you want, but for the love of all that is holy, don’t order a Martini like him.

    1. I’ve had more martinis shaken to death, even though I’m specific ordering it, than I care to remember.
      A cloudy, bruised, mess.

      1. Indeed. A Martini is made with a London dry gin and enough dry vermouth so you know it’s not just a glass of gin. Stirred. Preferably with a lemon twist (none of this olive nonsense). Any deviation needs to be spelled out quite clearly so as to denote it’s not a strict Martini.

        There are wine snobs, beer snobs, and scotch snobs, but NOBODY takes it as seriously as Martini snobs. I hear that every backpacker’s loadout should include a Martini kit. If they get hopelessly lost 4000 miles from civilization, they can just start making a Martini and two people will come out of nowhere to say they’re doing it wrong.

        But yeah, back to tuxedos…

    2. That Vodka Martini he always ordered esp. in the Sean Connery era was just another early case of product placement in Bond movies. At the time, the Smirnoff company was looking for a way to bring Americans to drink Vodka. So in addition to another campaign that invented the Moscow Mule in copper cups, they made Bond drink that shaked nonsense. By the way, in Casino Royale, the new Bond explains the original recipe for a somewhat different Martini you can find in Ian Fleming‘s books. The dry vermouth in it comes from and has a very special orange note, alas, you won‘t be able to reproduce the recipe anymore, since Lillet changed the taste of its years ago and it isn‘t dry anymore but much sweeter.

  3. So far so good. I agree with most of what your article implies but: I have an issue with most new clothing I see on the peg. This is also confirmed when I see your models wearing clothes. The clothes these days don’t seem to fit. In fact many photos I see show the models looking fat and the clothes not fitting as too short of suit coat or sports jackets; too short in the arm. Something strange seems to be happening with the 3 button fronts. The middle button is in place in the button hole and the shirts always show below it! It just doesn’t look tailored.
    I like turtle necks, black turtle necks work well in autumn, winter and where it is cooler climes. Color matching turtles are great also and helps to build up the wardrobe. That’s all for this writing. Thanks for your site. I’ll buy something some day I promise

  4. The one thing that I’m not sure if they take into account is that as mentioned, Bond is a man of action. Though he may be wearing a Morning Suite he has to be ready at a moments notice to do that “Hundred Yard Sprint’ when the bullets start flying. Not to mention all the acrobatics like he did in Casino Royale when he chased the bomber.
    The one thing I’ve really noticed is how people perceive you when you wear a suite. There was a diner in downtown Pittsburgh, PA I used to occasionally frequent at lunch and when I went in wearing something very casual I was shown the counter. I went in a few weeks later wearing a suite and was shown a booth. Perception is everything.

    1. I wore a “suite” one time and a C level executive tried to stay overnight and order room service. From then on, I only wore motel rooms.

      1. Since it was a “Motel” I assume it was off the rack. A hotel would have been “Bespoke”.

  5. I really live by the Dr. No Tuxedo it’s my favorites black tie style. Other than that I am a James Bond cosplayer, I 1st cosplay James Bond at Tucson Comic-Con 2018. Instead of a black tie ensemble, I use a black suit with a white shirt with black buttons by H&M a shirt to make it look like a tuxedo shirt, let’s not forget the black bowtie. I put make up on my eyebrows to get the Sean Connery look. I also pair it with the watch from the Video Game GoldenEye 007 that I got it from eBay. A random girl at the cosplay convention ask me for a picture, I end up excepting for her picture. I did get some compliments at the cosplay convention and it was a great experience. One day I’ll get a Tuxedo with a Shawl Lapel like in Dr. No. Now I feel very confident with my James Bond cosplay!

  6. Basically, my style of clothing resembles Sean Connery’s 007 from “Dr. No”, “From Russia With Love” and “Goldfinger”.

    I’m comfortable with it and I always receive compliments in how well I’m put together (As I’m told).

    Even when I travel by plane, I dress in a suit and, once in awhile, get upgraded to First Class because I’m told by Gate Agents, they appreciate it when people dress up to travel.

  7. I have always loved wearing suits. Maybe it is because I remember my grandfather always wearing them; even when he was living in his hacienda.

    When I came to the US, it was the heyday of the “Dress for success” movement, and I joyfully jumped in, even writing a college paper about the influence of dressing up in the perception of a person.

    Alas, ten years later I started working in the IT industry and things went down drastically. Not only did people stop wearing suits, but they went totally the other way. Even wearing flip flops and sandals to the office. And this was not even remotely a beach city. It got so bad that they started sending messages to please wear something more appropriate to work.

    In this article it talks about wearing what is appropriate for you. I remember a co worker that ALWAYS wore shorts to work, which was kind of accepted but the problem is he had long, spindly legs which were REALLY hairy!! I could only think of a spider whenever I saw him. I think it is always in our best interest to look as best as possible, not just for work but for the people in our surroundings . . . family, loved ones, etc.

    The problem I have nowadays is that it has been several years since I stopped wearing suits because in the IT industry they look askance at you when they see you wearing a suit when no one else is.
    Kind of thinking: “Who do you think you are” or “What are you trying to prove”

    Related to this, when I was in college, like I said, was the time when people started to wear hippie attire and when I spoke to a hippie friend about my “Dress project” he said he would be willing to come and talk to a group about the reasons why he wore the clothes he chose to.

    Nowadays, I would have to justify, somehow, my wearing the clothes I love to wear because if I do, I know many people around me will feel “uncomfortable” and they will try to bring me back “in line”, like it has happened to me before!

    So, my hippie friend had to justify his clothes wearing habit in those days but now I have to justify (unsuccessfully) my choice of clothes. Talk about a turnaround, because if I dressed now as a hippie I would get kudos from those around me, but if I wore a suit, I better find another job. Since I am not a lawyer, I cannot find many occupations where I can dress like I want.

    What has been your experience??

    1. Nobody knows how to dress anymore, nor want to. The “Dumbing Down” of America. Give it time, we’ll all be dressing in one of Mao’s little suites soon. Proletariat chic.

    2. Ever since I was a little boy I have had an affinity for dressing of an age that has long past. I think it was the influence of my grandfather, who was a company executive, and was required to wear a suit for his position.
      I was in the grocery store today and, as usual, was agog at the hideous way people look on an everyday basis; obesity and looking as though they just rolled out of their bedding.
      What the hell has happend to decency? The hippies fought against the conformity of the man in the grey flannel suit. Now, everyone is supposed to accept a trash culture of the lowest common denominator, and those who don’t are considered throwbacks, or politically incorrect. The problem with nowadays is the continual restriction of real liberties, while ensuring americans the hollow right to look as offensive and obscene as they wish. I don’t give a damn about people’s self expression so much that I feel they should be allowed by a sane society (whis isn’t ours) to tattoo their faces and heads, or look like the freaks of the People of Wal-Mart website.
      What good is the toleration of differences if it makes everybody into a grotesque freak? Nobody is forced to self deface with tattoos, so why do they do it, or dress as a bum when they have money? The roots of the problem are definitely somewhere in our decayed system of government, yet nobody wants to face it without hurting others’ pwecious feewings.

      1. I, too, grew up around suits (albeit one less generation of separation). I, too, am appalled at how far dress codes have slipped, and how when one elevates their own, they are subjected to what is best called “reverse snobbery”. I won’t even go to the grocery store without at least changing from my t-shirt into at least a polo (if I’m not already bumming around the house in a polo). I dislike being out in public without a collared shirt at a bare minimum.

        As far as tattooing goes, as long as it’s tasteful (if visible while professionally attired), it’s kosher in my book. Facial tattooing is rarely tasteful (though I give a little leeway for extenuating circumstances, such as religious and ethnic criteria).

  8. I think it bears mentioning that Bond is always in clothes that fit well and are impeccably pressed. Not to mention his grooming is spot on. No matter your budget those 3 things will go a long ways towards emulating a Bond like effect. As for the comments about other people being uncomfortable with your wearing suits, just remember that you owe no one an explanation or apology for being well dressed.

    1. Jefferson, unfortunately, I have to guide myself by how others react to what I do and wear. That is, if I want to keep my job.
      Sounds ridiculous but nowadays you are more liable to be ostracized by dressing with “business attire” than by going to work as if you were going to the beach or to a local hangout.

  9. I appreciate the time and effort that you put into this production. 007 has been a favorite of mine since my youth, and like many of us we have tried to adapt our styles with the times, yet I take heart in, as you pointed out, the subtle fashion changes that 007 has made over the years are usually effortless, occasionally outlandish, but that’s what one might expect or should I say,” Shaken not Stirred?”
    Well Done!

  10. Raphael,
    Better than any of us, you know that classic means conservative, and conservative means navy and charcoal grey.

  11. “James Bond once went undercover as a catalog model and saved the world with a particularly devastating Jorts campaign”

    “Showing up anywhere on a motorcycle while wearing a tuxedo gets you immediately laid.”

    “Budget cuts at Sony force James Bond to rent tuxedos from Sossi Formals in Poughkeepsie.”

  12. Great article. Just a small correction: both photos with captions mentioning “black suit” shows navy suits. In the first one, the contrast with the black tie is noticeable, while in the second one there is a difference between the jacket fabric and that of the lapel.

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