Flannel shirts can be tricky when it comes to classic style. Are they appropriate? And if so, where do they fit in? You may be surprised to know that there is indeed a place in your wardrobe for the flannel shirt, and this guide will walk you through everything you need to know so that you can wear them in style.
Watch Our Guide to Flannel Shirts
Not one to be seen in sneakers and a beanie, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Preston isn’t a fan of the flannel shirt! In fact, quite the opposite. Watch our video guide, where he shows you how to look your best when you wear flannel shirts.
How to Wear a Flannel Shirt With Style
Keep in mind that in the world of classic style, flannel shirts are a slightly bolder look. By employing the tips we outlined above, you can tamp down some of that boldness a bit, and thus make the flannels more versatile. Here, our suggestions on incorporating flannel shirts into your closet are bound to inspire some outfit ideas!
Layer Like a Lumberjack
The checked red and black flannel shirt may be iconic as the “lumberjack shirt,” but you can incorporate some rugged style into your flannel shirt outfits by incorporating another woodsman’s trick: layering. Wearing a plain T-shirt under your flannel shirt, such as a classic white T-shirt, will give your look a casually cool edge.
Pair a Flannel Shirt with a Sports Jacket
Simply put, flannel shirts are great for layering. In the realm of classic menswear, there’s arguably no other casual garment that’s as versatile as an odd jacket. A sports jacket or blazer in a more casual weave, pattern, or color will be the easiest way you can elevate the look of your flannel shirt.
Since the patterns of flannels are typically larger and a bit bolder than most other garments, you should keep your patterns to a minimum in the jackets that you’re layering on top of them. Of course, if you’re wearing a solid-colored flannel shirt, you’ve got a bit more liberty in how you incorporate patterns.
Overall, make sure that things are working harmoniously, and if you’re wearing multiple patterns, that they’re incorporated at slightly different scales that look pleasing to the eye.
Leather Jackets
One of the more casual options for outerwear, a leather jacket makes a wonderful pairing partner for the flannel shirt. If you’re a fan of a more modern look, then the Belstaff Trialmaster might be a good choice. And for added warmth, pairing a flannel shirt with a shearling-lined bomber jacket provides a particularly vintage vibe.
Wear Knitwear with a Flannel Shirt
To reduce the formality a notch, a great blazer substitute would be a cardigan. Easy to slip over your flannel shirt, and buttoning with a pleasing V shape that will allow your shirt collar to pop, you can find out more about the benefits of incorporating cardigans into your wardrobe in our dedicated guide.
Sweaters are another great option for pairing with flannel shirts. While there are many different styles available, it’s generally best to avoid crew necks, and instead, look for a V-neck sweater. Much like a cardigan or sports jacket, the V shape won’t constrict your shirt’s collar, meaning you simply need to pull on your sweater and go about your day without having to re-adjust your outfit.
Due to the casual nature of flannel shirts, you’ll be better served by avoiding flat, plain knits. These are great for dressier outfits, but a flannel shirt requires something a little more relaxed. Look for interesting weaves, such as a basket or cable knit sweater, which will match the formality of your flannel shirt perfectly.
The Best Pants to Wear with a Flannel Shirt
As far as pants are concerned, you’ve got a number of options here. You can pair flannels with anything from denim to corduroys to odd trousers. As a general rule, keep the colors harmonious, and the fit classic. Therefore, it should go without saying to skip the black jeans!
Bolder flannel shirts would best be paired with more casual looks incorporating items such as classic blue jeans. Of course, more conservative flannel shirts pair best with smarter pants and slacks, and those in the middle could be worn with corduroys, khakis, or chinos. Feel free to experiment with your different flannels to see what works best.
Shoe Styles to Wear With Flannel Shirts
When it comes to footwear worn with flannels, it’s typically best to lean a bit more to the casual side. This will mean avoiding more traditional shoe choices such as Oxford shoes and dress boots. However, don’t go too far the other way by incorporating very casual styles like combat boots, as they’re typically not seen within a classic wardrobe.
The best footwear styles to pair with a flannel shirt will be something like Derbies, or a loafer, especially in suede. The overall relaxed construction of the shoe coupled with the interesting texture of suede strikes a great balance for wear with a flannel shirt.
Cordovan Cool
As an interesting take on footwear to match a flannel shirt, a pair of shoes in cordovan leather can be a great choice. Here, Preston has selected the classic burgundy-brown cordovan color in the style of a dress sneaker. This is a particularly elegant way to infuse some style into a relaxed shoe choice.
If you want to incorporate a bit more texture, you could also wear flannels with different kinds of boots, such as the chukka boot, or Chelsea boot, as flannel shirts look particularly handsome when paired with more casual styles of leather boots.
Accessories for Flannel Shirt Outfits
When adding some formal flair to your flannel shirt, you really can’t beat the knit tie. This sartorial staple piece hits the right levels, as it’s still a piece of neckwear, but it isn’t overly formal like a smooth silk tie. Of course, no outfit with a tie is complete without a pocket square, so why not go for something in a complementary color, pattern or texture? If you need any inspiration, simply consult the color wheel to create some superb accessory pairings.
For more casual flannel shirt ensembles, you can really benefit from elevating your everyday accessories. Two-tone or “shadow striped” socks are a fantastic way to play on the multiple colors present in most checked flannel shirts. And, choosing an exquisitely crafted leather belt to compliment your footwear shows that you know how to create harmonious outfits.
Overall, our biggest suggestion is to try to dress your flannels up just a little bit. Don’t forget that flannel shirts are better left at home for really formal events. For example, it’s best not to wear a flannel with a business suit. Instead, keep the flannel more in the realm of the smart casual dress code in how you layer and pair it.
Finding the Perfect Flannel Shirt
Luckily, there are many options available to you when you want to incorporate this casual wardrobe staple into your closet. Whether it’s the classic black and red flannel shirt, something more subdued, or just a way to add a pop of colour to your outfit, men’s flannel shirts can be found from a variety of retailers.
These Brands Have You Covered
Go Vintage for Authenticity
As flannel shirts have been a part of classic style for several decades now, you’re sure to find vintage options on the market. While you’ll need to keep a keen eye out for any potential damage (as with all vintage shopping), you’re sure to find several pieces with attractive details that you simply don’t get on modern-day flannel shirts.
The outdoor specialist brand, Pendleton, has been producing flannel shirts for years, and many consider them to be among the top when it comes to sourcing vintage flannel shirts. Of course, there are many other brands to look for, but Pendleton is a great starting point if you’re looking to find a quality vintage flannel shirt.
Flannel Shirt FAQs
What pants should you wear with a flannel shirt?
Denim jeans in a classic cut are perhaps the go-to option for pairing with a flannel shirt. Other options include khakis and chinos, corduroys, and even a well-cut pair of odd pants. As is the case with other areas of classic style, avoid items such as skinny jeans.
Should you button a flannel shirt?
While flannel shirts are often seen worn in a style similar to an overshirt, they look best when buttoned as you would do any other casual shirt, such as the OCBD. Leaving your flannel shirt unbuttoned can give an unfortunately juvenile feel to an outfit.
Do you wear a shirt under a flannel shirt?
Wearing a shirt, such as a classic white tee, under a flannel shirt can provide you with a classic casual look. Be aware that this will make things very informal, so take that into consideration when choosing the other elements of your outfit. Ultimately, wearing anything under your flannel shirt will largely be a matter of personal choice, much like whether you choose to wear an undershirt or not.
How should a flannel shirt fit?
The best fit for your flannel shirt is similar to that of a dress shirt; neither too long nor short, with long sleeves, and barrel cuffs. Flannel shirts shouldn’t fit tight, but shouldn’t be too roomy either, as you want to look elegantly relaxed while wearing one.
Can you wear a flannel shirt in the summer?
Whether you choose to wear a flannel shirt in the summer will largely depend on your climate. Although flannel shirt cloth isn’t meant to be as heavy as the flannel used in suiting, it will still be a little thicker than a loose weave cotton, therefore you may feel a greater warmth when wearing one. Flannel shirts may be a great option if you experience summer climates that have chillier mornings and evenings.
Should you tuck in a flannel shirt?
Tucking in your flannel shirt is instantly going to upgrade your outfit and overall style. Because the untucked flannel shirt has been associated with skaters, hipsters, and other hyper-casual subcultures, tucking your flannel shirt into your pants will ensure you retain an edge of refined cool.
What Is Flannel?
Originally, the term flannel exclusively applied to a fabric that was made from carded wool; carded fabrics are brushed during the manufacturing process and retain both long and short fibers, giving them a softer feel. This is in contrast to combed fabrics, which are tightly woven together and discard the short staple fibers. Combed fabrics are going to be smoother and more formal overall, and worsted wool would be an example of this type of fabric.
Flannel For Suits or Shirts?
You may have noticed that flannel is also a choice of cloth when it comes to suits. Naturally, the type of flannel chosen for suiting possesses a heavier weight than shirting flannel, and will likely be spun from wool (as opposed to cotton, which is used for flannel shirts).
These days, flannel shirts can be made from many other fabrics aside from wool, such as cotton or even synthetics, but they’re often still carded to retain that soft & cozy texture that flannel shirts are famous for. And flannel shirts today can come in various weights and degrees of fineness, so you’ve got a multitude of options when incorporating them into your outfits.
Hallmarks of a Classic Flannel Shirt
Before we get into any specific looks, we need to cover exactly what a flannel shirt is. When you hear the term flannel shirt, it probably conjures images of a button-up shirt in a plaid or tartan pattern, with features like a button-down collar, button cuffs, and maybe some pockets. And while a pattern, particularly a check pattern like tartan, can be an important component of many flannels, the only thing that really qualifies a shirt as a flannel is the fabric it’s made from.
When it comes to looking for flannel shirts to incorporate into your classic menswear wardrobe, what should you be looking for? Your main priority should be finding shirts made from actual flannel, either in wool or cotton. So, stay away from synthetic fibers, as they aren’t going to give you the same authentic texture and feel.
How a Flannel Shirt Should Fit
The best flannel shirts to fit in your classic wardrobe will be those that are built and structured more like traditional dress shirts. In other words, one of the biggest things you’re going to be looking for here is length.
If you’re observing advertisements for flannels that are worn untucked by all the models, chances are they’re probably going to be too short to be tucked in anyway, and this isn’t exactly the look that you’re going for. A flannel shirt should have enough length past your waist and hips so you can tuck it in comfortably; it’ll look more put together that way.
Otherwise, you want the fit of your shirt to give you breathing room without billowing. This doesn’t mean that your flannel shirt should be tight to the body, and you shouldn’t be looking for an oversized flannel shirt either. Just head for that happy middle ground to achieve the right level of comfort.
Find Your Perfect Shirt Fit
Correct Sleeve Length for a Flannel Shirt
Yes, it is possible to find short-sleeved flannel shirts, but this style doesn’t particularly endear itself in the realm of classic style. Instead, focus on finding a flannel shirt with a sleeve length similar to that of a dress shirt: long sleeves.
Of course, getting your sleeve length right is the way you’ll be able to make the best impression with your flannel shirt, and our ultimate guide to sleeve length will help you get things spot on.
Buttons Are Best
When it comes to closing the cuff of your flannel shirt, it’s best to go with buttons or snaps instead of a double cuff, otherwise known as a French cuff. This is the configuration that folds back on itself and is fastened with cufflinks. Remember, your flannel shirt is a casual wardrobe piece, so formal details like cufflinks will look out of place.
Flannel Shirt Collars
If you choose to wear a buttoned shirt, the key benefit will be the collar that will frame your face. This is where other casual classics (such as the white tee) need extra support to paint you in your best light. Therefore, picking the right collar for your flannel shirt is an important decision to get right.
Perhaps the king of the collars when it comes to flannel shirts, the button-down collar ensures the points stay even, and frame your face wonderfully. Due to the softer nature of flannel, it doesn’t typically have the ability to keep itself elevated in an attractive way. This is where anchoring the points of your collar with buttons (like an OCBD shirt) creates the most elegant look.
Otherwise, a classic spread collar is another great option. This is perhaps one of the most traditional dress shirt collar styles, as it’s suited to the broadest range of face shapes. If your flannel shirt has a cutaway or spread collar style, then you’ll want to make sure you’re also using collar stays to keep things neat. Otherwise, your soft collar points are likely to collapse throughout the day.
Granted, choosing a collar style for your flannel shirt should be easy, as most ready-to-wear styles incorporate the best collar types for a flannel shirt. If you’re getting a made-to-measure or bespoke flannel shirt, you’ll need to pay closer attention to the style you choose.
Additional Details for Your Flannel Shirt
While it’s entirely possible to wear a flannel shirt with additional details such as double chest pockets, these extra pieces will reduce the overall formality of your shirt.
If you prefer a more dressed-up look, avoid overly casual details like flapped pockets, snaps, or contrast stitching. This is just going to make your flannel look more like workwear than something that can truly be incorporated into the classic men’s style canon.
Alternative Styles
Unlike many of the other items of clothing and accessories we discuss at the Gentleman’s Gazette, the flannel shirt is able to transcend different aesthetics. Whether you do or don’t identify with either the Grunge, Goth, or Hipster movements, the flannel shirt can be seen here as well as within the world of classic style.
Classic Flannel Shirt Patterns
While any shirt that’s made from flannel can necessarily be referred to as such, there are still many people who would consider the tartan pattern to be an almost mandatory component. But there is a multitude of patterns available to you, so it’s important to choose your pattern carefully.
Checks Are King
Without a doubt, the most popular style of pattern for a flannel shirt is the check. Pretty much any variety of checked patterns can be applied to a flannel shirt, but some of the classic styles such as grids, windowpanes, and tartans work best. After all, there’s something quite appealing about the nature of a plaid flannel shirt.
For the best results, look toward medium- to small-scale check patterns or tartans, in particular. These patterns will tone down the boldness of the shirt itself and therefore make it more versatile. Keep in mind that striped patterns or patchwork checks are going to be louder and less multipurpose and are, therefore, better avoided.
Multiple Colors
Often, patterns that feature three or more colors are actually going to be less bold than patterns that only feature two colors, because these two-color patterns will often try to incorporate high contrast, something that is necessarily bolder.
We’d suggest that you try to steer clear of high-contrast patterns and colors, such as black and white together; opposite colors on the color wheel, like green and purple in bold and bright shades; or something very dark, like navy blue against something very bright like yellow.
Focus on Texture
You could opt for a solid flannel to be maximally versatile in pairing with different garments. And just as you should be choosing your patterns carefully, so too should you give a careful eye to color. Essentially, analogous colors or muted and neutral hues are going to be your best choices here.
By choosing a plain flannel shirt, you’ll let the texture of the fabric do the speaking. This can be an excellent way to get the balance right between dressy and casual.
Excellent advice all around. That slate-blue flannel shirt is quite spiffy, in an inconspicuous way. Very well matched with the brown herringbone coat.
There are three good ways to wear a flannel shirt I am aware of: Rarely, seldom, and not at all.
Obviously, you’ve never split wood to heat a cabin…..poor dear!
W.A.M.
LOL.
As most of my flannel was bought as workwear for the farm when I was younger, and fall and winter yard work now, I had never considered pairing them with a jacket or sweater. I watched this presentation with interest, and considered which of current flannels I could pair with my current jackets. Thank you for doing this presentation.
Wearing fannel, is one’s choice,
Some people feel that it is not for them so be it. To disregard the possiablities of wearing fannel, especially when the weather is not cold enought to wear a sweather puts the wearer with a great option that will let him look great without having to be worried about taking off his jacket in case the weather warms up and not be comfortable. As anything else you buy, fannel has it place if you choose to buy some. Just be aware of style and colors that will work with what you have now and how the flannel looks on you is the most important thing when buying any flannel!
Thanks for your input, Richard! :)
I stopped wearing flannel and only wear pendleton wool shirts as non dress shirts. would you give the same advice and considerations for wool shirts?
Here in PA and typical for the northeast the winter weather can sometimes be brutal. So flannels are almost considered a second skin around here. Layering always, I think, looks best especially with a full turtle neck and not a mock. With that in mind some kind of heavier material sports jacket could well be appropriate and more comfortable than a heavier winter coat. Some kind of thin chain or simple necklace over the turtle neck will add a slight flare. I sometimes pull out my old ’60’s vintage surfers cross for the occasional added flare. Only the older guys seem to recognize it, others ask with a certain curiosity.
Thank you for sharing, Donald.
I like to wear a dark flannel shirt under a lighter colored sweater in winter. The best look, for me at least, is a dark pattern with an oatmeal solid color sweater. It looks casual but smart, and keeps me quite warm.
It’s great to see an article on one of my favorite fabrics. I highly recommend Vermont Flannel as a great source of well-made flannel shirts, etc.
I recently bought a flannel shirt from Uniqlo with a graph check, it is fairly understated so I wear it to work sometimes.
Given that flannel is a work shirt, one needs to develop some muscle for it look like it’s supposed to on you. Otherwise it looks a bit sad. Pairing penny loafers with flannel is like wearing work boots with a tuxedo – it doesn’t work. Jeans, work boots and wool beanie will.
You had me a bit worried at the onset! Growing up in the country in a rural environment on my family’s scion dairy farm, we considered flannels suitable for all but the most formal occasions during the Fall/Winter mos.! Close attn. was paid to the colors & accessories! The “Country Gentleman” aesthetic -a knit tie, a Donegal or Harris tweed jacket/sport coat, with appropriate, well-oiled or polished footwear suitable for the weather! I recall numerous occasions jumping out to help a neighbor round up some errant livestock or push a car out of a snow bank in my “Sunday Best”!
Good and informative video..
I haven’t had a flannel shirt in a long time. Last one I bought was from L.L.Bean. Since it’s towards of the end of winter, I’m not in the market to buy one but, if I was, I would buy a Filson flannel shirt.
I like the tweed jacket and pocket square combination towards the end of video. I never wear pocket squares but appreciate a good thought out one by others.
Good article, but please do not do the word “Beanie” any grace. Toque is fine for cold weather or really hairless people. Watch cap has at least a certain waterfront kind of tough guy aura. Beanie is a horrible thing that usually looks like half a sock stuck on someone’s head.
I like wearing flannel boxers in winter. Should I match my boxers with my shirts? Or is that too much?