Sunspel Polo Shirts & T-Shirts: Is It Worth It? (Review)

Even here at the Gentleman’s Gazette, we can’t deny the appeal of a quality T-shirt or polo shirt for those times when you want to be classically cool, whether you want to be literally cooler in temperature or cool like James Dean. The options abound, and we thought we’d help with an honest review, in case you’re considering the ‘everyday luxury’ brand Sunspel.

In today’s ever-casual world, it can be a genuine challenge to find an alternative to a dress shirt that is of equal quality and stands for a lover of classic style. So, we look toward Sunspel, a brand offering a clean, cool take on how traditional casual wear can be relevant in the 21st century all the while looking towards providing the most luxurious fabrics and finishes possible,

Before we take a further look into the brand itself, a quick reminder: this post is not sponsored. 

History of Sunspel

First up, let’s take a dive into Sunspel’s history to find out more about the brand itself. Thomas Hill founded Sunspel in 1860 when he opened a hosiery and underwear factory. And this happened in the English city of Nottingham. Suppose it makes a lot of sense to open an underwear factory and the home of fiction’s favorite tight-wearer, Robin Hood.

But, instead of manufacturing man tights for local vigilantes, Hill’s aim was to create beautiful clothing from the world’s finest fabrics using a combination of his innovative mind and his knowledge of textile development.

The company grew under the name Thomas A Hill, Ltd. and, in 1890, the company started manufacturing worldwide, specializing in cashmere, merino, silk, and cotton undergarments.

Ten years later, in 1900, the company started importing the world’s finest and rarest cotton, Sea Island cotton. Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean added to the already impressive variety of textiles on offer, therefore establishing Thomas A Hill’s dedication to unparalleled luxury. Sea Island cotton is a particularly difficult fiber to grow and then spin into yarn, thus making it rare by the very few places that it can grow before it can then be harvested.

The fibers or staples are much longer than other forms of cotton. This allows for a much smoother and finer yarn to be woven, resulting in an extremely soft and luxurious garment. Sea Island cotton was used by the company to make some of the world’s first luxurious T-shirts. Around the year 1908, these simple and lightweight garments were seen as a big improvement to the heavy-weight undershirts that preceded them.

Continuing to innovate, the year 1914, saw the introduction of cellular cotton. By using fine cotton yarns and traditional lace-making machines, a new kind of cotton was invented. This had a unique open knit that allowed air to circulate the body and to keep the wearer cool.

The prolific use of Sea Island cotton did cause a brief name change in 1932 to Sea Island Cotton, Ltd. However, it’s 1935 where we see that the company introduces its key underwear line, Sunspel, named so after the sunny spells of the Caribbean, where the cotton is grown. And the popularity of this underwear line prompted the official renaming of the company to Sunspel, Ltd. in 1937.

In the same year, the Sunspel factory also relocated to the nearby town of Long Eaton, which is also in Nottingham, which means that Robin Hood and his band of Merry Men could still get a pair of tights when needed. I know Robin Hood was around hundreds of years before Sunspel. But, I wonder what he would have worn in the 30s.

In any case, this is where the Sunspel factory has remained since. Like most factories during the Second World War, Sunspel’s efforts were redirected to support the war effort and make utility clothing. And even though its offices suffered a direct hit during the blitz, the company continued onward and came out on the other side of the war. It was then able to refocus on everyday luxury clothing.

In fact, it was a couple of years following the end of the war in 1947 when the founder’s great-grandson, John Hill, re-engineered the underwear concept whilst on his honeymoon in America.

Inspired by the shorts worn by boxers in the ring, Sunspel introduced the boxer short to the UK with an improved design, featuring flattened seams, a new back panel, and, of course, being finished in the finest cotton.

Sunspel would now be known as the place to go for superior men’s undergarments. This is especially apparent in the company’s history of supplying some of the world’s famous department stores as well as the famous 1985 Levi’s Launderette Ad. Here we see model Nick Kamen removing all but his Sunspel boxers to do a spot of laundry.

The year 2005 marks the sale of the company from 81-year-old Peter Hill to Nicholas Brooke and Dominic Hazlehurst with Brooke having a family connection to Hill and remaining as CEO today. It was important to Hill to know who he was selling the brand to and Brooke was able to rejuvenate the company, which had become a bit stagnant in the previous years. 

As the company changed and grew into the 21st century, costume designer Lindy Hemming saw a unique opportunity to feature the rich British history of Sunspel and outfit James Bond in 2006’s “Casino Royale”. Quite fitting that both Bond and Sunspel were undergoing a transformation at the same time. The silver screen super spy’s influence helped bring a new customer base to the brand.

And in 2010, Sunspel opened up its first standalone store in East London’s Shoreditch with additional stores opening up in several other high-profile London locations, including the menswear Mecca, Jermyn Street. Four years later, in 2014, Sunspel set up shop overseas in Tokyo, followed by an additional three stores in Japan. And 2018 saw the opening of the US flagship store in Soho, New York.

During this time, Sunspel had also reintroduced women’s wear into its main collection. But, there’s no denying the company’s long and storied history of producing fine menswear.

T-Shirt or Undershirt?

Before we look at the specifics of today, I think it’s important to provide some clarity here, especially given Sunspel’s propensity for undergarments. The fact of the matter is some people like to wear an undershirt and some people don’t. And, realistically, there’s nothing right or wrong about it as it should be about what’s right for you.

That being said, there is the difference between a T-shirt and an undershirt, and this is important to note because Sunspel does offer both. So, although they might look similar at first glance, there are a few characteristics about both that do set them apart

An undershirt from Sunspel is available in a number of fibers. Now, this is in line with the company’s rich history of fine cotton products. Both their Q14 Cellular Cotton and Q100 Sea Island Cotton are available as undershirts or you can see an option for both a crew neck or deep V-neck, which would actually be a great option to wear with an open collar shirt.

Both of these styles feature a slightly longer and slimmer cut than a regular T-shirt does with seams and overall fabric density to match; all with an aim towards discreet lightweight wear under your outer layers so as not to have an impact on your overall appearance or comfort throughout the day.

Sunspel also offers the same model of their undershirt and their Q82 Supima Cotton. The main difference is in the construction, where the everyday cotton is crafted into the exact same style as the rest of the undershirt range. So, a longer fit with less noticeable seams to allow for smoother layering.

Now that we’ve defined the Sunspel undershirt, let’s take a look at the rest of their everyday T-shirts before moving on to their polo shirts.

T-Shirts

In addition to undershirts, Sunspel offers a few different varieties of a T-shirt, often being made in a different fabric or featuring different details, such as a long sleeve or V-neck. But, the style we’re looking at today is their iconic classic T-shirt, which is literally called the “Classic T-shirt” on their website.

An everyday T-shirt from Sunspel is crafted in what they call “Q82 Supima Cotton,” a unique, fine, cotton jersey  that is directly descended from the original fabrics crafted by founder Thomas Hill. Whilst the cotton used in these shirts does not feature a staple length longer than those used in Sea Island cotton, it is important to note that a longer than average staple length is still used, which is apparent in the shirt’s fine and luxurious feel, both to the hand and when worn.

Stylistically, the shirt is quite literally what you would expect from a classic T-shirt. It has a straight fit throughout the body, so no sculpting lines or darts throughout the shirts. Remember: this isn’t a modern-day, muscle fit, spray-on T-shirt. Sunspel’s T-shirts are designed to be timeless; something that can look good and be worn for years to come. It’s not something that’s just jumping on the latest trend.

Even though it isn’t super clingy. The beauty of the classic t-shirt fit is that it looks good on a variety of different body types. It does this by fitting the shoulders and chest well, then draping gently down to the bottom hem. This is where having the slightly heavier-gauge cotton jersey is desirable as it’s not too flimsy nor is it too thick, therefore striking the perfect balance and its appearance when worn and how it feels against your skin.

Sunspel has a comprehensive sizing guide to ensure you get the correct fit when selecting your shirt. It features both metric and imperial measurements as well as a standard chest size conversion. For instance, I’m a chest size 45 and I found that a Sunspel size XXL fit me comfortably. It felt natural and with a tasteful level of being slim.

The construction of the classic T-shirts is very high-quality, featuring overlocked internal seams and flat sturdy openings at the neck, sleeves, and bottom hem, featuring two fine lines of stitching for additional security. I loved the lightweight and breathable fabric on the T-shirts and the fit is spectacular. I think they’re going to be great for layering under a lightweight jacket in spring or even wearing alone by itself while on vacation in the warm summer months.

As far as styling the shirt goes, we’ve compiled six of our favorite T-shirt looks that use white as a base here. Although you could also use any classic solid color, such as navy, green, or gray. A classic T-shirt from Sunspel will cost you £75 or $90. If you want the same style in Sea Island cotton, the price would then go to £155 or $195.

Polo Shirts

Let’s move on to the Sunspel polo shirts. These styles vary a little bit more than the T-shirts do, so we’ll briefly outline those differences here.

By far, the most popular style and the range is the Riviera model. This is crafted from Sunspel’s unique Q75 warp-knit cotton. It features a two-button placket at the collar, a patch pocket at the left breast, and flat stitched seams.

Meanwhile, the Sea Island cotton polo shirts feature three-button placket at the collar, flat front with no additional pocket, and rib seams.

Sunspel also offers a traditional pique cotton polo shirt, which is more in line with the Sea Island cotton polo shirts. However, these are crafted from a slightly-heavier Pima cotton. They feature two buttons instead of the Sea Islands’ three.

The polos are also available in long-sleeve versions for the most part. However, we find this sleeve length to be a little bit short to be worn under an odd jacket and this would be the main reason we want to wear a long sleeve polo shirt.

So, with this in mind, we’ll be taking a look at Sunspel’s most iconic polo, the Riviera model. If you have a keen eye, you’ll likely have worked out why in this case. And it’s got something to do with this James Bond. Riviera is the model Bond sported in the movie Casino Royale in a wonderful classic navy.

The Q75 warp knit cotton was originally designed many, many years before its silver screen debut. Then, owner Peter Hill returned from his vacation in 1955 unsatisfied with the heavy knit cotton shirts of that time. He found that they were much too hot for his tastes.

The knitted shirt was actually quite popular at this time, as seen in the 1999 adaptation of The Talented Mr. Ripley where Jude Law wear many different styles of knitted shirt. 

Wanting to remain both stylish and comfortable, he’ll reconfigure the factory’s warp knit lace-making machines. This helped to create new, lighter, and more breathable cotton fabric. And he wore the resulting shirts on his vacation to the French Riviera and this is where the line of polos derives its name. The modern Riviera polos were modified in tandem for the cost and design of Casino Royale, adopting a comfortably slimmer fit without losing its classic look.

The polos also feature a two-piece collar, which is similar to a traditional shirt collar. This is in contrast to the typical ribbed collar, which we see on many different polo shirts today, including Sunspel’s own Sea Island cotton variety. The result is a collar that has much more body to it and helps to frame the face, as well as ensuring that the collar tips don’t roll or wrinkle as the day progresses. And that is something that is constantly being seen on a ribbed collar.

As part of restyling the Riviera polo, Sunspel elected to shorten the sleeves. Now, doing this will flatter the wider part of your arm, but it does mean that any longer underarm hair could be exposed when lifting your arm and being seen underneath the sleeves.

That being said, I took a size double extra large in the Riviera model. I personally found the fit to be modest and comfortable and to be, I think, a great fit for a variety of different body types. 

As the last word on the Riviera model, we’ll take a brief look at the chest pocket. It’s a nice addition and gives a nice vintage and 50s feel while still remaining perfectly timeless. However, the pocket itself is pretty small. And even if you could fit something in there, it would upset the clean lines of the polo’s intended fit. So, best to take a tip from Bond and to hang your sunglasses from the placket instead.

As far as pricing goes, the Riviera costs £115 or $150 and the Sea Island cotton polos are £215 or $315.

Are Sunspel Polo Shirts & T-Shirts Worth It?

So, now, we come to our main question: are Sunspel t-shirts and polos worth it? I’m sure that, for many people, spending upwards of $90 on a t-shirt or a polo doesn’t seem like a normal thing to do, especially with so many cheaper options out there for what looks to be exactly the same thing. But, that’s exactly why you should consider Sunspel.

Of course, there are cheaper brands out there, but a reduction in cost can also mean a reduction in quality. If you were to buy a couple classic colors, as you’ve seen today, you’d be set for far longer than if you were to buy cheaper options that would need to be replaced far more frequently. Now, it’s all about the long-term value that you’re going to get from a Sunspel shirt versus the short-term value you would get from paying less upfront, but having to replace it more often. The essence of cost-per-wear as we’ve discussed here.

Sea Island cotton is a truly wonderful fabric to have in a garment and, as we’ve seen, you do pay for that luxury.

This means that Sea Island cotton shirts aren’t going to be for everyone. But, if Sunspel’s Sea Island cotton offerings are within your spending range, you shouldn’t be disappointed with your purchase. Instead, we suggest that you look towards a more budget-friendly option as they perform just as well as the Sea Island cotton shirts.

In our experience, Sunspel’s everyday classic cotton t-shirts and Riviera polo shirts are of excellent quality and wash-and-wear well. And most importantly, fit into our classic wardrobes effortlessly. So, we happily give our stamp of approval to Sunspel’s t-shirts and polo shirts. Even if you only have a few of these classically casual staples in your wardrobe, they’ll be the best that you own.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a navy Riviera polo from Sunspel. I’m also wearing a pair of khaki chino pants, brown shadow-striped socks from Fort Belvedere, and a pair of white leather sneakers. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks like these.