Many men are interested in watches, but as the options abound, and there are timepieces for every budget, some may find owning a new watch rewarding, and some go the vintage route. Today, we explore the wonderful world of vintage watches and answer the question, “Should you buy one?”
When it comes to watches, there are undoubtedly thousands of options to choose from, and depending on your budget, you could go from a dollar store timepiece to a hundred-thousand-dollar investment watch. And depending on your style, really, the world is your oyster when it comes to choice.
I’m sure it’s pretty obvious that you can go into really any watch store and pick out something that fits your style and budget. But what about a watch that’s new to you and has a life beforehand? Well, welcome to the world of vintage watches.
Currently, the vintage watch world is booming, with a rise of online retailers and physical locations. Overall, there’s been a rise in the sale of vintage watches, with many beautiful models to choose from. But, with price depending on condition and a whole lot of other factors to consider, you really should ask: Is a vintage watch right for you? So, that’s what I’m going to try and guide you through today.
What is Considered a “Vintage” Watch?
So, it’s kind of annoying; it’s a little bit difficult to really pin down what is vintage, and depending on the model and brand, it’s really any watch that’s 20 to 30 years or older; whereas there are other watch brands that need to be even older than that to be considered vintage. Obviously, one of the key things that defines a vintage watch is that the watch is not new when you buy it.
There are collectors and you will find “new old stock” watches, but this is not very common. And keep in mind, if you do find a new old stock vintage watch, the prices are extremely expensive.
Also, keep in mind that there are vintage-inspired watches. These watches take stylistic cues, design ideas, or even reproduce designs that were made years prior. For example, let’s look at the classic Casio digital watch. This watch is considered retro or vintage-inspired, but this watch is still produced new today. So, this would not be a vintage watch if you buy it brand new, but you could find actual vintage examples.
So, based on all these factors, we’re going to consider a vintage watch being a watch that is 20 years or older.
Why Do People Buy Vintage Watches?
This is an important question to ask as it’s going to help us to understand the appeal of vintage watches in the first place. We’ve come up with four reasons why people buy vintage watches, but if you have more, feel free to leave them down in the comments below.
1. Prices for new watches are skyrocketing.
So, once you start diving into the world of watches and start to understand pricing, when you look at iconic models – like maybe the Rolex GMT – prices are all over the place. They’re climbing, they’re dropping. It’s like watching the stock market. And retail prices continue to climb as well, and waiting lists just get longer and longer. Meaning, if you want a new Rolex, you need to be in possession of some serious cash and patience.
Even high-end fashion watches are extremely expensive for what they actually are, and even though I understand that people might like the look of a Daniel Wellington, there’s absolutely no reason that a quartz watch like this should cost this price.
Meanwhile, the vintage watch market will offer many options that don’t have to break the bank. Buying a vintage watch can allow you to look stylish, save some cash, and pick up a watch with a movement that has history and heritage.
2. Stylistically, a lot of vintage watches look really good.
As we’ve previously mentioned, vintage watches can look fantastic. Overall, something you see with vintage watches is a design element that really is lost today; it’s the beauty of simplicity.
This is because a lot of these vintage watches were designed at a time when classic clothing was worn. So, a classically-designed and elegant watch had to match and harmonize with a classic outfit.
If you contrast that with today, casual clothing is much more present. Designs have become less considered and are more sporty, so people turn to vintage watches as a way to elevate a casual look or to add a touch of authenticity to formal attire.
3. A lot of people will find that vintage watches can be easier to wear.
In recent years, modern watches have followed a lot of trends; one of them being really chunky, oversized watches. I think a watch somewhere between 39, 40, and 42 millimeters looks really good. 46, 47 is really big.
After all, a giant diver’s watch that’s weighing down your wrist might look good right now or with a casual outfit, but it’s hard to dress it up and make it look classic. It might even be like the mullet of the 21st century; people might look back and say, “Why am I wearing that brick on my wrist?”
On the other hand, a vintage watch will typically be smaller and slimmer on the wrist. This is going to do you more favors than you might actually think. Remember that wristwatches of classic gentlemen were always elegant and didn’t dwarf the size of their wrist. Also, as a bonus, if you have a significant other, watches of this size can really look good on both sized wrists.
4. Vintage watches can still be purchased as an investment.
Of course, we really can’t pass up the point that people do buy vintage watches based on their future value. After all, there are certain models in production years that can really fetch a hefty premium. Therefore, people will buy these, hoping to fetch a profit in future years. Just like anything that’s rare or no longer made – whether it’s a classic car, a bottle of wine, or a baseball card – the few remaining articles in good condition become very desirable to collectors.
Pros of Buying Vintage Watches
Pro #1: There are many options to choose from.
No matter what you’re looking for, you have decades and decades of examples to choose from and, with many watches being made in mass production, your choice really is endless.
Keep in mind that vintage watches also include brands that are no longer around so, if you’re looking for a specific type of vintage diver, you might not have to find an Omega, you can find another brand that has a great example.
Chances are, no matter what you’re looking for, you can find something that really catches your eye.
Pro #2: You can find something that’s really unique.
In addition to having a range of choices, you also will have a range of conditions, which means you might find a watch that is extremely unique. Even if it’s just based on patina, every single watch that has a previous life will have differing degrees of patina and more unique character.
You can also find watches in your birth year, which can be extremely desirable for collectors.
Pro #3: Vintage watches can be inexpensive.
Granted, this won’t be the case with a lot of the bigger brands. But quite often, if you have a design in mind – say a gold dress watch – you can find lots of examples from smaller Swiss brands that existed in years prior.
Another benefit here is value. Oftentimes, you can find a vintage Swiss watch from a brand that’s no longer around that has a quality movement for a thousand, two thousand dollars that will greatly outshine a modern watch, which is overpriced.
Take Jack on our team; he has an entire collection of vintage watches in different metals with different looks that really suit every one of his outfits, and he picked them up for a really great price. He only has a few that are big names with an Omega and a Cartier, but other ones from smaller brands that no longer exist.
Pro #4: They fit really well in the world of classic style.
Let’s round things out with probably the least surprising pro of all: They go great with classic clothing. Vintage watches and their more elegant design go great with a pair of trousers and a jacket or a suit. So, if you love this sartorial lifestyle, chances are a vintage watch will work great for you.
Now that we’ve looked at the pros, now let’s look at some of the cons of vintage watches.
Cons of Buying Vintage Watches
Con #1: You need to know a decent amount of information about vintage watches.
This is true, especially if you’re going for a more high-end brand like a Rolex or Omega; you really should know a lot about that vintage watch model before buying. That will help you to weed out the potential for things being fake or aftermarket parts being put on.
When buying high-end watches, it would really help for you to know something about the watch too weed out the potential for the watch being fake or aftermarket parts that were possibly put on.
You should know things like, in this model year, what type of dials and dial colors did Omega use on their Seamasters. That way, it protects you from something like a redial where the dial’s been repainted, and the watch then doesn’t have as much value.
Luckily, we’re happy to help you boost your watch knowledge as we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette are continuing to put out more and more watch content.
Con #2: It is likely that a vintage watch will need some TLC.
If you’re someone who doesn’t like patina or some scratches, a vintage watch might not be something you want to wear right away. Also, there are models that are traded quite frequently across small dealers and the watch might not be the best cared for and might need a service. So, there is a chance that you’ll have to put a little bit of money into that watch. Whether it’s a new strap or a complete overhaul, just keep that in mind.
A good vintage watch can be thought of a lot like a pre-owned car; they can have a lot of mileage left, but you really should take care of them. You also might notice that a vintage watch won’t handle the bumps and knocks of everyday life that a modern watch will, but that’s okay if you’re not planning on using it as a workhorse. Overall, just something to be aware of.
Neither Pro/Con: Vintage watches hold their value…sometimes.
This next point is not really a firm pro or con, but keep in mind that vintage watches might not always hold their value at the same rate as modern watches.
There are many factors at hand when you buy a vintage watch – the condition, the dial, and whether it comes as a full set. There are many things to keep in mind. So, these varying factors can greatly impact the overall value that the watch will continue to have and will continue to carry.
Also, keep in mind that if you ever wanted to sell that watch, the vintage watch enthusiast market is smaller than the watch market in general, so you might have a harder time selling it.
So, overall this isn’t something for the faint of heart, and don’t think that you’re going to buy a vintage watch and then retire on it.
How to Buy a Vintage Watch?
A this point, we might have you thinking that you actually want to buy a vintage watch. So, how do you do it? We’re going to give you a few tips before you pull out your credit card.
Tip #1: Research before you buy.
Research the watch, the model, and do your homework on who is selling it. Look into the history of the watch that you want to buy. Are there other models that were made at the same time that you might like more? What color dials should it have? Make sure to do your homework.
Also, look into the retailer with a similar level of curiosity. How often do they sell vintage watches? Are they reputable? Do they have strikes against their better business profile? If you call them up, do they actually have knowledgeable answers about the product?
Take this for an example: Delray Watch sells vintage watches quite often. I had a question about one of the chronographs that they sent us, which was a vintage JLC. We had some questions about it for this post, and I was able to call up Federico; ask why it costs so much, what’s special about it, when it was made; and he was able to answer all these questions for me.
Tip #2: Try the watch on before settling.
So, this should be easy if you’re buying it in person. Ask the salesperson to pull it out of the case and slap it on your wrist. But, if you’re buying online there might be some more things you want to think about. Does the seller offer returns if you get it and you don’t like it? Could you talk to the seller and they could compare it to another model of watch that you’ve already tried?
Ask yourself: Does this really fit my style? And don’t just buy it because it’s cheap; make sure that it actually works for you.
Tip #3: Find a reputable watch care company.
Even if your vintage watch comes with a watch service guarantee, odds are it’ll still need a service at some point in time, and that original watch company might not exist anymore so be sure to find someone that’s reputable.
Oftentimes, the dealer who sells the watch to you can recommend someone or they might even have their own watch service program. I know that this is the case with our friends over at Delray. They have a watch service program, so you can buy a vintage watch from them and have it serviced from them.
Tip #4: Set an overall budget and stick to it.
So, you’ll want to break down your budget into a few categories. What is the upfront cost, the shipping and customs cost, a service cost, and the cost to get a new strap? This will be different for everyone, but these are some things to consider.
You don’t want to spend $300 on an Omega Seamaster, get it, the strap is terrible, it doesn’t fit you, and all of a sudden, you’re in seven, eight hundred dollars when you weren’t planning on it.
When it comes to vintage watches and a particular model, you’ll see really high and really low prices. It’s best to stick to something that’s in the middle for a happy medium.
Should You Buy a Vintage Watch?
Here are our summarized thoughts: If you’re looking to buy a vintage watch as an investment, no. You’ll have to put in countless hours researching, searching, haggling on price, and if you’re not an expert, I wouldn’t recommend this.
The cost of time plus the cost of the watch might not leave you with a whole lot of profit in the long run. Plus, no one knows what the vintage watch market is going to do long term. Many vintage watches will come with a little bit of upfront cost, so just popping it out of the box and putting it on your wrist might not always be the case.
If the vintage watch fits your style, yes. If you’re a lover of classic style, chances are a vintage watch will be a no-brainer for you. If you care about craftsmanship and the beauty of old things, yes. If you care about sustainability or keeping old things going, vintage watches are perfect for you. Also, it’s like wearing a piece of history that had a life before you.
Lastly, if you want to find something unique at a great price, then yes, vintage watches are for you. So, if you want to find something interesting and different than what’s currently on the market, search for a vintage watch, and this fact is only sweeter by the numerous bargains that you can find out there in the market.
As always, we’re interested to hear from you down in the comments below. What vintage watches do you own? Do you have one that you’re saving up for currently? Please let us know.
Outfit Rundown
In today’s outfit, I’m wearing something pretty casual that I would wear around the GG office this winter. I’m wearing a gray Merino wool sweater from LL Bean. It’s in a commando style, very similar to what James Bond wears.
I’m wearing a pair of dark wash selvedge jeans in the new strongman fit from Brave Star, a pair of my more rugged winter boots in waxy commander from Grant Stone, and a pair of Fort Belvedere socks, which are red, in this sort of diamond pattern. These are a prototype of something cool that we’re working on.
On my wrist is this really cool Piaget Skeleton in rose gold. This was sent over by our friends at Delray Watch. It’s not a vintage watch, but this is so darn cool; I had to wear it. To check out any of the Fort Belvedere products, like a new pair of socks or gloves for the winter, visit the Fort Belvedere shop.
If you’re looking for a reputable dealer to buy a vintage watch, I would recommend our friends over at Delray Watch. They sent many of the watches that are in today’s post, and you can check out their website.
I own a number of vintage watches from several different makers. I enjoy their style and have had only minor issues with them. I can’t say that about some of my newer watches. I recently have discovered Poljot watches. They are supposed to be the Russian equivalent to Rolex. Whether or not that is true I am not sure, but I own 4 of them and they are some of my favorite watches. They are very reasonable and there is a wide variety to choose from on etsy and Ebay. I get compliments on them all the time and I didn’t pay more than $100.00 for any one of them, not including tax and shipping. All in all for my hard earned money vintage is the way to go. Great article gentlemen.
I inherited a Le Coultre Futurematic (circa 1950) watch from my uncle. When I got it, it ran, but it was a bit sketchy. I sent it to a reputable restorer and at considerable cost and delay it works like a charm.
The Futurematic was one of the first watches that were self-winding (other than Rolex). It is called a “thumper” because its counterweight that winds the watch can sometimes be felt. The neat feature I like is that not only does it have a sweep secondhand, it has a meter showing how much “fuel” is left in the current winding.
Because I do not wear it daily, I keep it in a winding box which keeps it properly wound and running all the time. BTW, it has no crown. There is a tab on the back of the watch to reset the hands.
I used to be able to get my vintage watches serviced for around $50. Those days are GONE! So, you might find a deal on a running vintage watch but when it needs servicing, and it will, the cost of that is often more than you paid for the watch.
So, buy locally from someone who will guarantee it and also service it at a decent price when it needs it.